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Rick's Model S Front Lighted T - No Longer Available

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Why do I feel this would be kind of cool mounted to the back of the headrests in a Roadster?
That is another COOL idea, ARTSCI can do it.

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i will buy both LIghted T and the front camera view provided someone installs in my area, please email me the details
i live in newjersey area. [email protected]
Vijay,
please take a look at "lighted T installation video" in ARTSCI signatures, it is super easy.
 
It's worth noting that I installed the lighted T a month or two ago and it's never really worked. It was flaky at first flickering and everything but now it doesn't work at all. I'm not saying yet that it's defective or anything. I think the 12V positap connections are not a good enough power source. I think I might need to wire it differently.
 
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It's worth noting that installed the lighted T a month or two ago and it's never really worked. It was flaky at first flickering and everything but now it doesn't work at all. I'm not saying yet that it's defective or anything. I think the 12V positap connections are not a good enough power source. I think I might need to wire it differently.

I had problems with the positaps I found on amazon. Went to my local car stereo installer who gave me some great 'snap on splicers' that when I searched on line I could not find anywhere. Worked like a charm. Another friend said that he removed about an inch of the insulation from the wire he wanted to tap into, parted the wires to make a 'hole' in the wires, threaded about 1/2 of exposed wire that leads to the 'T', pushed it thru the 'hole' in the original 'hot wire', soldered it, and insulated the whole splice with liquid electrical tape.

I did not want to do the latter just in case I wanted to remove the lighted T in the future.
 
I always find that there's no replacement for soldering -- especially in a car that is jigglign and jostling about on the road all the time. If you do decide the remove the T after some time, you can either unsolder the wire or just cut it at the solder point and wrap it with electrical tape. I learned quickly after some mods started failing using positaps that I should switch to soldering. Having said that, I know soldering isn't for everyone so I suppose the alternative is to find the best quality positaps out there and ensure they're in good contact with the wiring.

I've had my T installed for some time now and I LOVE it. It gets a lot of comments and I leave it pulsing all the time. Makes my car look like it's always "alive" -- which of course it is. :)
 
I had problems with the positaps I found on amazon. Went to my local car stereo installer who gave me some great 'snap on splicers' that when I searched on line I could not find anywhere. Worked like a charm. Another friend said that he removed about an inch of the insulation from the wire he wanted to tap into, parted the wires to make a 'hole' in the wires, threaded about 1/2 of exposed wire that leads to the 'T', pushed it thru the 'hole' in the original 'hot wire', soldered it, and insulated the whole splice with liquid electrical tape.

I did not want to do the latter just in case I wanted to remove the lighted T in the future.

Yes, the Positaps are a problem -- they have to be screwed down very tightly and finger tight often won't do. I use pliers or ViceGrips to tighten them.
 
I always find that there's no replacement for soldering -- especially in a car that is jigglign and jostling about on the road all the time. If you do decide the remove the T after some time, you can either unsolder the wire or just cut it at the solder point and wrap it with electrical tape. I learned quickly after some mods started failing using positaps that I should switch to soldering. Having said that, I know soldering isn't for everyone ......................... :)
Soldering does make the wire stiffer and in a vibration environment that puts more stress on the transition between the solder and the flexible wire. There is a reason cars use crimp connectors and stranded wire. Solder does have an inherent resistance and that is another reason you most likely won't see it used in high amperage high voltage connections between the pack and inverter.
 
Has anyone tried the tesla tap installation. I'm looking at using option 3 without the switch this way I'll always have it on and it will change brightness when I turn on the headlights... I want the t to be seen a little during the day and at night I don't want it to over power and just look like a white spot?

let me know if you have tried this one?

Lighted T Installation Instructions | TeslaTap


Mine is directly connected to the headlights. The brightness at 100% perfectly complements the headlights, no need to worry and overpowering.

DO NOT RUN TO DRL'S as they dim when the turn signal or headlights are activated thereby turning off the T
 
I did that (as described upthread) connecting DRL and headlights via diodes to the T LEDs. I do not see brightness differences with turn signal or switching from DRL to headlights. YMMV
 
Hooked up the T with the headlight option but I am thinking I would like it illuminated with the running lights as well (+ In line resistor) can I tap into the driving light harness as opposed to running to the fuse box.
If so do you know the color code wire for the running lights?

Thanks
Steve