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Discussion in 'Roadster 2008-2012' started by Fabrizio, May 4, 2014.
As far as I know the only difference is the MC240 using +12V during the "I" state instead of -12V.
Upon my visual inspection it appears that the sub-frame of the front-end is fine, the right-side swing arms were probably replaced and it looks like the mounting points are the original and in-tact. The swing-arms do have writing on them that says "Lotus", which means the salvage yard possibly pulled them off a Lotus Elise (which I saw they had one in the back) and remounted it. The crash structure looks like it was either replaced or wasn't harmed but I can't imagine they replaced that part, it is likely incredibly expensive as it appears to be all carbon fiber.
There is definitely going to be some risks and I'll do everything I can to make sure its safe, I will definitely get it inspected by Tesla after its all said and done and its titled/licensed.
The condition it was in on pick-up is of the ebay pictures not the autoauction pictures.
Good luck with the project.
I found this listing on craigslist just in case you might needed. Here is the link
Tesla Roadster - Sport Adjustable Suspension Upgrade
BTW, I was at the Tesla Service Center in L.A. & the technician said that Tesla doesn't deal or service salvage cars due to liability issues. Hopefully that's not the case on your side of town. Once again good luck with it.
Discussed with local Tesla service center and they said that this charger would work with the Roadster 2.0, Yay, I'll have a charger soon!
If you search the TMC forum there was an issue in the past due to firmware limiting factors that prevented the MC240 from working on 2.x Roadsters. I love my MC240, its my dedicated home charger. Guts / box of the MC240 is inside my home, where the connector and wire run is outside my house through an old dryer vent hole. 30 AMPS is plenty for my daily charges. I have a 70AMP HPC I haven't wired up yet, but my service to the home needs an upgrade to safely install that guy. And with him I want some solar panels as well.
But getting back to your project, you mentioned about where the ESS fuse is. Well most people call it the "service disconnect", which is really right. It won't blow so its really not a fuse. Its a mechanism to cut all power from the ESS to the PEM and the rest of the Roadster. Its located on the drivers side of the ESS and you should be able to get a peak at it from a vantage point of the right rear wheel well. Just pull it out and it cuts the power. This will save the ESS from draining in an emergency situation where it'll take time to get the Roadster back on the road. Ideally 50% SOC would be nice in this state but anything above 20% is good.
Nice to hear about the front end parts that were replaced and that you got a good crashbox. That company you picked up the Roadster tends to get Roadsters. So it sounds like they're getting smarter about keeping the ESS alive which is a very good thing and I'm happy they've caught on. I've seen many die in their hands
Yeah, they seemed like really good guy us at the dismantler/salvage yard and they had some gorgeous cars there (lamborghini, ferrari, maserati, bentley, rolls, etc). I was happy they were keeping plugged in, I am pretty confident that the battery won't be an issue for this car. I will have to get the car in the air and take some photos of the and try to find something to photo that may be questionable to show you guys and see what ya think.
Does anyone know if there are schematics available of the front end wiring and body parts? I am looking at it and thinking it may seem obvious but I'd bet I save a lot of time if I have "instructions" to reassemble.
I'm getting the car plugged in on 120V tonight, in the meantime I'll see if I can find and pull that disconnect.
I believe to disconnect the ESS service plug you need to pull the left rear tire and remove the fender liner to reach it. It should be bright yellow. But if you pull it you also will not be able to charge as I believe it totally isolates the pack.
You'll want to disconnect the pack for safety if you're working on any of the electrical systems.
I got the 120V charging cable from Shrink locally so it is now plugged in and charging!
There is not a need for me to work on any of the High Voltage systems fortunately with this vehicle, the only problem currently with that system is the cooling component which is the condenser coils and fan up front, waiting on those parts then I can hook it up and get it charged...
Thanks everyone for the awesome support!
Any ideas on where to score some hinges for the hood?
Does anyone know where the horn is supposed to be mounted? (I can't find something that looks like one and pressing the horn doesn't do anything)
I had to have my crash box replaced after a pickup backed into me and pushed the radiator into it. It is all CF and hand made, can be replaced by being cut off the aluminum frame and the remainder heated with a heat gun to loosen the adhesive for removal. There is a shop in Scottsdale that has repaired a number of Roadsters - Raintree Autobody (raintreeautobody.com). Some other shops have experience with the Model S, but Raintree has done more work with the Roadster. If you call them, ask for Bob.
The cooling system is high voltage, all the orange cables up there are direct from the ESS.
I've got the A/C system back together, it's working and keeping the pack cooled for charging. I have also fully charged the pack on 120V adapter borrowed from Shrink, reads at 186 ideal miles after full standard mode charge... Any feedback on whether that is a good number? (from what I've seen it seems to be on par) I went ahead and tapped the "top off" button just now and after another 1000 hrs of charging at this rate I'll see where it falls!
Anyone know where hood hinges can be sourced from (other then Tesla, they want $409 each!) or is anyone willing to have theirs 3D scanned so I can get them printed out in ABS plastic? If you do the scan I'll get a set for you printed out as well and mail them to you on me!
That's a great number - 186 miles is typical for a new pack. The average Roadster is down to 180 ideal on a standard charge after 24,000 miles. Charging slowly on 120V improves the displayed number, you'll probably see lower when charging at 240V.
Not sure if it's compatible with Tesla but maybe Lotus hinges could work. Just a thought. Good luck
Lotus Elise doesn't have a front hood, they have 2 body panel inserts which bolt in place. Unfortunately the only way I can get these hinges is via a Tesla OR is someone wouldn't mind checking on theirs for a part number, I've actually been finding a lot of GM parts on this Roadster once you get into the nuts and bolts of it, so it's possible that the hinges are a GM part, if so it'll have a part number on it.
3d printing would be awesome though, would be great to amass a parts catalog so these little parts don't become obsolete and even more expensive than they are already. But need sample parts to scan with 3d scanner (easiest way) or just take pictures of parts with ruler for scale (more work since graphic designer will have to build the 3d file based on the pictures)
GM and Lotus worked together to build the Vauxhall VX220 (UK) and Opel Speedster (Germany). Although these are gasoline powered cars, some of the parts are interchangeable with the Roadster. For instance, the soft tops will fit and the wheel bolt pattern appears to be the same (5 hole vs. the 4 hole of an Elise). Start watching Ebay UK and Germany for parts you may be able to use.
Here are some pics.
Thanks for the pix! It seems those letters/numbers correlate with the materials used (PA MXD6) but don't lead to the specific part...
But the pix help build the 3d file! Need to see the bottom half and hinge itself still...
Here is a side view of the hinge. It is very difficult to see the bottom half of the hinge, without taking it out.
Didn't know the newer Roadsters have hood hinges, mine has them included in the hood CF structure...