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@KarenRei, a few bucks are coming your way via PayPal. I want to say "manure," but please use for anything connected to the project.![]()
PayPal is brutal. I'm wondering if Zelle is a possibility.
Everything I see about it stresses "US bank account or US mobile number".I guess so? I know nothing about it.
(Heading to bed - night!)
Yup. The video has text: Must have a bank account in the U.S. to use Zelle."Everything I see about it stresses "US bank account or US mobile number".
What's the cost trade-off in forgetting fencing entirely and using the money to buy bigger trees that don't need protection? That will also, obviously, save time and effort due to reduced mortality and them getting to maturity sooner.To block off all of the trees I've planted from all sides would take something like 8km / 5mi of fencing. And I've historically minimized the adding of fencing because of... again... money reasons.
What's the cost trade-off in forgetting fencing entirely and using the money to buy bigger trees that don't need protection? That will also, obviously, save time and effort due to reduced mortality and them getting to maturity sooner.
I'd have to get pricing from Kjarr. The larger the tree, the less interest that the sheep have in them, while simultaneously, the faster they recover from damage. Given how affordable Kjarr is in general by Icelandic standards, perhaps $20 per tree? It'd probably at least ~5x the total tree cost (but not ~15x it, as with larger trees you can use a lower planting density) .
The other option is avoid broadleafs altogether. E.g. I've only ever seen them take nibbles out of pines, and I've never seen evidence that they've even touched a sitka spruce (I think the needles are uncomfortable for their mouths). That would be a shame to have to have limited diversity and avoid natives, though. I could always diversify the forest at a later date, however.
One advantage to larger trees is that they do sequester carbon and anchor soil faster. Small trees take years before they really "get going", while larger trees "get going" straight out of the gate.
Maybe I should do some combination of the above - with the next tree batch, keep getting the conifers small (for planting cost efficiency), but add in some large broadleafs, of a resistant size? What do you all think?
(Eventually I plan to live on this land, but it's going to be a while. A having a dog loose on the land who likes to chase sheep should solve the problem once and for all)
Beyond the, uh, idiosyncratic sheep-resistance issue, there's a great variety of opinions on optimum size tree for short-term results (growth) and long-term viability. This is a scientific stab at answering that question: CO-Horts: What Size Tree Should I Plant?.One more option: I could buy smaller trees, and plant them into larger pots at home (I have many, at least a hundred), and grow them here for several years until they get to a resistant size.