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Solar Panels UK - is it worth it?

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Hero! 103 pages / 7 days = 97 minutes per page. Comprehension should be good :)



Winter heating? You will get diddly-squat from PV in winter (Dec/Jan will be 10% of mid Summer peak). Oct-mid-Nov and Mid-Feb onwards you will get some - but weather has to co-operate by being sunny on cold [central heating] days ...



I suggest you need useful logged data for consumption. You need to know hour-by-hour what you use in various scenarios:

(Hour-by-hour because you need to know what is during Off Peak (you can price that buying from Grid), whether likely to have some PV at that time, and for the rest "Price from grid")

Winter, artic outside, heating on full blast. Both "house occupied" and "away for weekend"

Normal average Summer day consumption. Maybe a party-day as well as an ordinary at home day - and a weekday / weekend day. Baking / Washing / tumble drying days (if you have those high-consumption days) vs. normal days

Smart Meter (got one of those?) might give you that data, or a plug in gadget such as Owl

Then, if you are up for it, you need to crunch those numbers. I think the calcs you need are for:

Winter days - assuming you will charge the battery 100% on Off Peak (in Spring/Autumn that will be partially-charged on some/majority of nights - depending on prediction of tomorrow's sun [Tesla and Givenergy will do that, or you can roll-your-own using e.g. Solcast])

What is the consumption from end-of-off-peak to start-of-off-peak following night? Your ideal would be a battery that can cover that. I guess 80:20 would do - so what size battery would cover 80% of the days usage.

However, you probably don't actually want to try to achieve that in Dec/Jan. By mid Feb you will get some useful sun PV (when it isn't raining - if it rains then same sum-game as Dec/Jan). Use figures for likely Monthly generation which you can put in the mix. My battery does about 1/3rd of a winters daily Peak tariff, but by mid Feb I have days where I use zero Peak tariff, and only charge battery to 50% on Off Peak - enough to run until Sun Up, and then Sun will charge to 100%-ish, and then that will run down from 14:00 - 15:00 (Feb PV-SunDown) onwards ... up until Off Peak starts.

In Summer the tables turn. You want the battery to go from "PV SunDown" (the moment at which the PV is generating less than the house is using) until PV-SunUp. If you have East and West arrays that will probably be 2 hours better than a South-only array. Of course that includes the night time, which will be your lowest consumption, which helps eek the battery out. My battery will last me a bit over 12 hours (over night) at Summer Consumption, at which time my PV-SunDown to SunUp is about 7PM to 7AM.

On top of that no point installing panels if you cannot use their output - bigger battery, or a car (parked at home during nice sunny summer days, Natch!), or a summer usage - Air Con, Hot Tub, Immersions etc.



Yeah, me too :(



Not sure the North are going to contribute enough (on top of the others) to make them worthwhile.

Multiple elevations may require multiple inverters, or some other fancy "balancing" stuff. (Not something I know about, but might mean that North benefit is offset by having to buy "more stuff" like inverters, wiring, scaffolding, etc.)



Ask them what their lead-time is. If it is 12 months (might well be ...) then you might want something else



If you are going to plug-and-forget that won't matter, You could install e.g. a Zappi charger and let it just divert excess PV to Car (if it is at home and plugged in) and use Eddie (IIRC??) to divert excess power to Immersion and so on.

If you want to tinker then I think it it definitely helps. I can go into Tesla APP, see that the battery is almost full, PV has several hours peak to go, and I can start one/both cars charging (and choose low AMPs if I only want to divert a bit). I don't think I'd do that as often if I had to go in and out of several APPs. All that can be "automated" with Tesla API. Again, harder if there are several different APIs to make connections to - and X-times more hassle whenever anything changes in any/one of them.



I don't think that figure is useful. You need a) household consumption in various scenarios (as described above) and then match that with likely PV production (month by month). I suggest you have a go with PVWatts - that will let you figure out (for your exact location) what roof area you have (for each elevation) and [at that Lat/Long] what your likely generation will be month-by-month

Make separate calcs, for each of your orientations. Then copy/paste the month-by-month production figures to a spreadsheet - and then see when producing more than house will use, and when not enough. That can influence battery size (or whether you need car to be at home any day in Summer when sun is shining! or also buy an Air Con system for the house! and also clarify that you aren't going to get any benefit for winter heating in Dec / Jan at least)



I have a loop system like that. We have a pump (special hot water pump - I think that is referred to as "bronze") which comes on to pump the ciruit, on a 5 minute timer and overridden if thermostat sees that the return temperature is "hot"). We have bedside / bathroom switches (on home automation system) to "trigger" that. The plumbing is configured so that there is a non-return valve when pump is running, and when not the hot water can flow both ways round the loop - which provides benefit of more hot water "flow" than only a single circuit.

Before we put the pump in the water cylinder was cold within about 4 hours.

We also have towel radiators on the hot water circuit (special towel rails, stainless maybe?, sorry about that ...). Run the pump (and/or run a bath/shower) and the flow of hot water heats the towel rail, which coincides with use of course. Or just turn the pump on if you want the towels heated at any other time.



If you are doing it you want to put up as many panels as you will ever need - there is a fixed cost for scaffolding and "getting installer on site", and quite possibly "one inverter", so incremental cost of a few more panels is small.


If you are sizing to have a reasonably decent amount in Spring / Autumn you will definitely have excess in Summer.

Adding Air Con, in Summer, would use up some excess ... even a plug in one with a snorkel-pipe out-the-window would do. Or some other heavy summer time usage.
Wow. Thanks for the fast reply. Probably like 5-10 mins per page 😂 but it was a mission I needed to complete !

Yeah, I’m aware generation is gonna be almost zero for a good few winter months. Thanks for the reality check though, (Maybe 10% ish - cover the base load). Hence the need for largish battery charging requirements off-peak. (I did mention I’d just read the whole thread, didn’t I? 😆). I’m not even sure I’d make it through a full spring day TBH ! - Not without something changing. Maybe though. 🤔
I’m aware I need to attack the top power offenders. Getting the data is not gonna be easy just now. Going that way, I need to get some power monitors/ loggers and go around each power drain.

BUT I’m pretty sure - initially anyway, I’ve identified the top 2 culprits already. And if I’m maxing out the roof space, what else can I do? - Can’t add any more. So that bit is sorted. It’s just about how much battery I need from end of off peak to start of off peak again really now, minimising the hungry loads and being able to pre-schedule/ program the battery for the year. (ie Allow the car to charge in the IO schedule, charge the batteries to 100% overnight 3 months in winter, say, 95% in Feb, 90% in Mach, then 50 % in April, 10% in May? etc, or whatever….). Gonna need to experiment a bit on that. And suck up any over ambitious errors as a learning experience. Excess battery capacity will help cushion that there though hopefully.

Lots to think about. I’ll have a go on the PVwatts thingy.

I did have lots of data, but the supplier (SSE) got taken over by OVO and the data didn’t follow (only the massive bills) our smart meters also be stopped communicating in Dec apparently, although I can still see the daily and “real-time” Consumption on the smart display. I think the supplier is probably guessing our usage at the moment as every day is almost the same in the app’s “daily usage”. Not ideal.

I was sceptical about the north facing panels TBH. But from the modelling estimates, they are obviously showing much less than south facing but ‘some’ useful yearly output. Especially on cloudy days. Researching it a fair bit, looks like about 50% of what the South facing ones will give. But I am looking at it like this; I can only fit 5 on the south face anyway. Estimated to get me about “2015” kW per year. 8 on the north face they estimate will get me “1929” kW per year. Ok, so that’s 58% of the max, assume it’s less, say 50%, that’s 1,600 kW. So having 8 on the north should generate about the same as having 4 extra on the South side. So for the price of 4 extra panels (£800? Plus a bit for ancillaries) it should be worth the small extra cost while they are on site for 1,600kW extra a year - which could be 50p a kW by the time it’s installed - or…. about £800 !
Also I’m thinking if a south or east facing panel goes kaput, it’s a readily available spare not doing much to swap over in case they don’t make them anymore. Keeping the string balanced.

Let’s see what price they come back with. I’m liking the idea of being able to pre-program and fine tune the pre-programming of the off peak SE battery charge though and the IO 6 hour window decreases the survival time on the battery during peak rate as well.

What are the physical devices you’ve got for your set up of the water recirculation loop? I’ve just got a timer at the moment (like a hard wired mechanical plug with dip switches for the times you want it on or off) but I’m pretty sure the water is kept hot all the time. Yeah the water tank cools I guess but that heat escapes into the bathroom as heat, so it warms the room anyway, so the energy isn’t really lost I suppose.

Anyone got any feedback on the Solar Edge ecosystem? I’m trying to eke out all the extra performance I can. Any %age wasted on unnecessary conversions or inverter losses equates to less kW bough in and less time the rest is on peak. Even 6% of 7,000 (420kW) at 45p is an £190 extra a year.

Cheers all !
 
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A 10kw SolarEdge system would be better if putting optimisers on that many panels. However it looks like Octopus will not pay well for PV exports if your total PV inverters are over 9kw. Hence I would be thinking 8kw SolarEdge for the 27x 425 as they will never generate near their claimed rating on your roof.

I think SolarEdge batteries are overpriced and for my home are thinking of having the battery system separate from the PV inverters but don't yet know if Octopus Flux permits it.
Hi,

Thanks for the input.

Yeah the SE inverters also work with another non SE battery as well but I can’t remember the manufacturer. So possibly a cheaper option. Not sure if that would allow the same programmability or if even available though.
SE 10kW battery is about, what £7k ?
What battery alternative are you looking at?

Probably 8kW or more likely 6kW inverter would be fine yep, although they say the latest SE inverters can be oversized to 200%. I’m guessing they might make it 4 strings on 2 smaller inverters though. Idk yet. Anyway, as long as I get the clippings straight into the DC battery, all good 👍🏻
I’m not too worried about the feed in price, it’s bugger all anyway. Plus I probably won’t be exporting much. Better to keep the electrons for myself if I can. If things change I’ll review it.

Someone posted earlier that the export limit imposed on some Octopus tariffs (TEP for sure) was 9kW NET. Not array size or inverter rating, NET. Whatever that is but I think that NET will defo be less that either of the two.

I looked on their website and on the sign up page but I couldn’t see any kW limitation for the IO tariff, although I was going round and round in circles on the same pages 😂
 
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Hi,

Thanks for the input.

Yeah the SE inverters also work with another non SE battery as well but I can’t remember the manufacturer. So possibly a cheaper option. Not sure if that would allow the same programmability or if even available though.
SE 10kW battery is about, what £7k ?
What battery alternative are you looking at?

Probably 8kW or more likely 6kW inverter would be fine yep, although they say the latest SE inverters can be oversized to 200%. I’m guessing they might make it 4 strings on 2 smaller inverters though. Idk yet. Anyway, as long as I get the clippings straight into the DC battery, all good 👍🏻
I’m not too worried about the feed in price, it’s bugger all anyway. Plus I probably won’t be exporting much. Better to keep the electrons for myself if I can. If things change I’ll review it.

Someone posted earlier that the export limit imposed on some Octopus tariffs (TEP for sure) was 9kW NET. Not array size or inverter rating, NET. Whatever that is but I think that NET will defo be less that either of the two.

I looked on their website and on the sign up page but I couldn’t see any kW limitation for the IO tariff, although I was going round and round in circles on the same pages 😂
I have a solar Edge inverter linked to 2 x Growatt batteries.
13kw of storage for about £5k
In January, with hardly any PV production, we used 50kw of peak power on 1080kw of usage, and some of that was on purpose for the saving sessions
 
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I have a solar Edge inverter linked to 2 x Growatt batteries.
13kw of storage for about £5k
In January, with hardly any PV production, we used 50kw of peak power on 1080kw of usage, and some of that was on purpose for the saving sessions
Hi,

Interesting. If you don’t mind me asking: How do you achieve that? That’s 36.5kW a day. Have you time shifted the other 24kW to off peak somehow?

That’s a a good price for the batteries. Noob question; How does your set up work for charging the batteries? Is it controlled by the Solar Edge system? Or something else?

Cheers
 
Yeah the SE inverters also work with another non SE battery as well but I can’t remember the manufacturer.
Just found it;

SolarEdge’s StorEdge backup solutions are compatible with high voltage LG Chem RESU batteries.

I guess this means it works natively within the Solar edge home hub ecosystem (like their own Solar Edge battery does).

“StorEdge Single Phase Inverter with HD-Wave Technology​

A single inverter unit connects directly to high voltage LG Chem RESU batteries. With fewer components for easier installations, the HD-Wave powered inverter manages PV production and consumption, battery power, and smart energy applications. It achieves a record-breaking 99% weighted efficiency, and includes a 12-year standard warranty extendable to up to 25 years.
Suitable for indoor or outdoor installations, inverter models range from 2.2kW to 6kW.”

I presume it’s these ones…..

RESU7H 400VCAPACITY7.0kWhTYPICAL PRICE£4,800
RESU10H 400VCAPACITY9.8kWhTYPICAL PRICE£5,600

And these…?

RESU3.3 48VCAPACITY3.3kWhTYPICAL PRICE£2,160
RESU6.5 48VCAPACITY6.5kWhTYPICAL PRICE£3,200
RESU10 48VCAPACITY9.8kWhTYPICAL PRICE£4,300
RESU13 48VCAPACITY13.1kWhTYPICAL PRICE£4,800

Although don’t quote me on that !
 
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Maybe 10% ish - cover the base load)

Doesn't quite work like that, but you'll have no difficulty using what you generate :) Mid Summer my PV gives me useful power (at least as much as house uses) 7AM - 7PM. Whereas 08:45 - 13:15 was my best Mid Winter day, and many days the start/end is reduce (cloud) and thus not enough to support the house load; and the mid winter peak was 4kW against 15kW for my best summer day (48 panels). In Summer some clouds during the day mean I still have no trouble filling the battery. In Winter any clouds mean "diddly squat" actual benefit.

I’m aware I need to attack the top power offenders. Getting the data is not gonna be easy just now

I use some TP-Link Kasa smart plugs (TP-Link have a cheaper version, but it doesn't support ITTT). They have basic Smart Plugs and also Smart Plugs which also have Energy Consumption Logging. Because all the data is recorded its much easier to digest than the old plug-in-meters that just record total consumption over a period. And you can do things like "Alert me if my fish tank uses less energy than normal" so you sort out the pump or heater before the fish die!

When we moved in here we did a "turn everything off" to find what parasitic power users we had. There was a transformer for the front door bell - massive thing, been there since the 60's, which was converting a fair bit of 'Leccy to Heat!. That took some finding ...

It’s just about how much battery I need from end of off peak to start of off peak again

Also beware of need to make sure you can charge battery 0% - 100% WITHIN the off peak period. You need both enough time, and also that the Battery WILL charge flat out [and no restriction from DNO etc.] (or, if not, that you have enough time for its charge profile). My 2x PowerWall will do it in 4 hours - but only just!

was sceptical about the north facing panels TBH. But from the modelling estimates, they are obviously showing much less than south facing but ‘some’ useful yearly output

I stand corrected. I just assumed North was "useless". I've crunched some numbers with PVWatts for my location. In Winter the North is about 40% of South, but summer is 75%-80% - that's way more than I realised. I also suspect (can't see hourly numbers in PVWatts) that North would contribute to Start / End of day in Summer (i.e. getting benefit from early East sun and late West sun) and that will lengthen the Solar Day and shorten the Solar Night, which will make a difference to ability of battery to "cover" for the night hours.

A 30-degree North roof is significantly worse than a 20-degree roof though, so I suggest it would be worth you measuring what your roof slope is for your number crunching.

What are the physical devices you’ve got for your set up of the water recirculation loop?

I just have a switch (several, each bathroom and for the lazy by the bed too!) which triggers a timer / relay to turn the pump on; that is in series with a thermostat, so once the return water is "hot" then pump stops (e.g. if two people press the switch a few minutes apart). We originally used battery powered remote wireless switches, but I have swanky home-automation now and we just use that (every switch has an ID and the controller decides what happens when you press Switch with ID=1234 - hence several switches can all do the same thing, and it deals with running the pump for a configurable amount of time, and then pump is just in series with thermostat so it doesn't run once/when the return is hot)

I’ve just got a timer at the moment (like a hard wired mechanical plug with dip switches for the times you want it on or off) but I’m pretty sure the water is kept hot all the time

I didn't have a timer at all originally, the towel rails caused a gravity loop but, yeah, that meant 24/7 :)

As you've already got a timer I think all you need is the remote switches to trigger it, and then a count-down timer (e.g. 5 minutes) instead. TP-Link Kasa plug could do that :)

Yeah the water tank cools I guess but that heat escapes into the bathroom as heat, so it warms the room anyway, so the energy isn’t really lost I suppose.

Well ... that's OK in Winter. Heat escapes all along the pipes too, if that is within the curtilage of the heated area I agree its fine (depending a bit on efficiency of heating DHW vs. Rads), but if the hot water pipes are running through the loft, insulated or not!, then not so good. And in Summer that space heating is undesirable of course

Solar Thermal for hot water? More efficient (per sq.m.) than PV, but whether it is worth giving up PV roof space I dunno. I have loads of roof space and have both ... Solar Thermal not entirely maintenance free either (mine was fine for 10 years but has had some money spent on it recently ... dunno how/why air has got in :( )
 
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And if I’m maxing out the roof space, what else can I do?
I assume there's no space away from the house for something freestanding?

I need to get some power monitors/ loggers and go around each power drain.
I decided fairly quickly that I wanted a GivEnergy Hybrid Inverter and Battery, so while I'm waiting months and months for installation I bought 8 GivEnergy smart plugs, I think they were something like £10 each. They connect into the same app that I will ultimately use for the solar+battery and by then should have some smarts to turn on/off with generation etc. They work well, the graphs and costs are worked out well.

I did have lots of data, but the supplier (SSE) got taken over by OVO and the data didn’t follow (only the massive bills) our smart meters also be stopped communicating in Dec apparently, although I can still see the daily and “real-time” Consumption on the smart display. I think the supplier is probably guessing our usage at the moment as every day is almost the same in the app’s “daily usage”. Not ideal.
Have you tried Loop No smart meter in home display? | Loop can help for FREE
 
I'm fitting 4kw on the north roof - only have 2.6 (old, lower power panels) on the south. Hoping to get almost the same output over a year. But the north panels are very 'peaky' - late spring to early autumn they can be almost as good as south. Winter practically nothing.

second the thought of doing full yearly outputs from pvwatt or pvgis - that can give a nice breakdown per orientation. And then stack them in excel so you can see your minimums and maximums - and work out what is a reasonable amount. If you're up on all the roofs might as well fill them, but your figures may allow you to skip one of them - perhaps the south if its only small and is 'special heights' which may be more expensive.
 
Dunno if helpful / interesting, but here's a good Winter day (I only found one this good in December / January)

SolarPVMidWinter.gif


Yellow lines indicate where PV was generating a useful amount. Solar was able to slightly nudge the PowerWall up a bit ... more commonly, in Winter, PV is only able to keep it level, or to reduce the rate of discharge

I "hold" my PowerWall at 50% during the day, and then reduce it at 6PM which is timed to help the grid during peak use [i.e. 'coz of Putin/Ukraine], and to run out at start of Off Peak, hence the flat-spot. On normal winter days that 50% flat-spot (i.e. drawing from Grid on Peak Tarif) is reached around mid day - especially on Baking / Washing days)

Also shows Grid use for PowerWall overnight charge, and some car top-up, and then during the 50% flat spot and lastly for a short while before Off Peak starts (when PowerWall has fallen to 0%)

SolarPVMidSummerr.gif


In Summer I have a longer solar-day, of course, and if the PowerWall is at 100% at PV Sundown then I have enough, just!, to last overnight

In this example the car was charging to soak up excess concurrently with my PowerWall charging.

NOTE: "73.3 kWh To Home" also includes "To Car" ... I'm not actually using that much in the house on a summer's day :)
 
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@Pete UK - I too found this thread hugely useful when researching solar last year.

our set up is 14 Trina panels with optimisers, 9 on a SE roof and 5 on a SW roof. Solar edge inverter (limited by DNO to 3.68 as they refused the G99 application but were happy to accept on G98 limits) and Tesla Powerwall/gateway 2. Powerwall and gateway are outside so a battery with good thermal management was critical to us.

anyhow, it all got completely installed on 26 January and so far, despite being in West Yorkshire, has produced 204kwh. Albeit with variation on 1.4 to 15 kwh depending on the day.

we let the Powerwall do its own thing, set the reserve to 20% as recommended and the control to Time Based Control. Utility rate plan is also set up, we are on Octopus Go currently giving us 4 hours overnight at 7.5p per kWh (expires August though..)

we have found so far that the Powerwall is pretty good at anticipating the following days Solar input and has some days charged to 100% on the cheap rate and others has not charged itself at all overnight. Today is sunny for example, it was at 67% at bedtime last night. We ran the dishwasher overnight and it was down at 35% at 8 AM. We have used pressure washer on 2 cars this morning and other than that a normal day, and it’s now (11.50) at 70%.

I’ll admit it hasn’t always got things right, or we have done something it can’t predict like 3 washloads during the day, and we have had to use peak grid electricity for a brief period as a result. This brief period being from 8pm until bedtime at 10.30, after which the base load is only 0.2kwh so to be fair not an issue..

I’m not sure if every installer does this, but ours is also configured such that if you are doing something like charging the car off peak the electricity flows such that it can charge the Powerwall and car simultaneously (as opposed to the flow being grid-battery-car which means you can’t do both at once. Also if Powerwall is charging off peak, and the house is doing something (like dishwasher) the Powerwall charges at its normal rate and the dishwasher runs from the grid.

Hence to that extent, the Powerwall is, I think, plug and play/ignore. (I know others like to be more in control but you don’t have to be for it to work well).

Final thought on Powerwall is that it does automatically island the house in the event of grid outage, straight from the box. Other systems need some additional work/configuration to allow for this, which normally is at an extra cost.
 
Thanks @WannabeOwner.

“As you've already got a timer I think all you need is the remote switches to trigger it, and then a count-down timer (e.g. 5 minutes) instead. TP-Link Kasa plug could do that”

- would be pretty good to have it turn on for 5 mins when the bathroom/ toilet/ etc light was switched on. 👍🏻

“Also beware of need to make sure you can charge battery 0% - 100% WITHIN the off peak period. You need both enough time, and also that the Battery WILL charge flat out [and no restriction from DNO etc.] (or, if not, that you have enough time for its charge profile).”

- Yep. Got that. Hence the thought of the Solar Edge batteries - think they charge at 5kW each, so should be ok. Also. The IO 6Hr window would provide a buffer, be tight with 30kW storage though.
 
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@Pete UK - I too found this thread hugely useful when researching solar last year.

our set up is 14 Trina panels with optimisers, 9 on a SE roof and 5 on a SW roof. Solar edge inverter (limited by DNO to 3.68 as they refused the G99 application but were happy to accept on G98 limits) and Tesla Powerwall/gateway 2. Powerwall and gateway are outside so a battery with good thermal management was critical to us.

anyhow, it all got completely installed on 26 January and so far, despite being in West Yorkshire, has produced 204kwh. Albeit with variation on 1.4 to 15 kwh depending on the day.

we let the Powerwall do its own thing, set the reserve to 20% as recommended and the control to Time Based Control. Utility rate plan is also set up, we are on Octopus Go currently giving us 4 hours overnight at 7.5p per kWh (expires August though..)

we have found so far that the Powerwall is pretty good at anticipating the following days Solar input and has some days charged to 100% on the cheap rate and others has not charged itself at all overnight. Today is sunny for example, it was at 67% at bedtime last night. We ran the dishwasher overnight and it was down at 35% at 8 AM. We have used pressure washer on 2 cars this morning and other than that a normal day, and it’s now (11.50) at 70%.

I’ll admit it hasn’t always got things right, or we have done something it can’t predict like 3 washloads during the day, and we have had to use peak grid electricity for a brief period as a result. This brief period being from 8pm until bedtime at 10.30, after which the base load is only 0.2kwh so to be fair not an issue..

I’m not sure if every installer does this, but ours is also configured such that if you are doing something like charging the car off peak the electricity flows such that it can charge the Powerwall and car simultaneously (as opposed to the flow being grid-battery-car which means you can’t do both at once. Also if Powerwall is charging off peak, and the house is doing something (like dishwasher) the Powerwall charges at its normal rate and the dishwasher runs from the grid.

Hence to that extent, the Powerwall is, I think, plug and play/ignore. (I know others like to be more in control but you don’t have to be for it to work well).

Final thought on Powerwall is that it does automatically island the house in the event of grid outage, straight from the box. Other systems need some additional work/configuration to allow for this, which normally is at an extra cost.

Interesting… thanks. There is a module for the Solar Edge home system to do this as well now. Islanding - like the PW. However I think the changeover is a bit slower like 3 seconds or something. No big deal don’t get many power cuts.
Not ruling out the powerwall(s) - but if it’s gonna be £11,000 each and I need 2 or 3 then. That’s a lot of dosh. Still considering both options at the mo. And I might be able to get my hands on 2 from a cancelled order fairly fast. 🤫
Some advantages and disadvantages of both just weighing it all up. Thanks for the input. Appreciate it. 👍🏻
 
would be pretty good to have it turn on for 5 mins when the bathroom/ toilet/ etc light was switched on

Sounds like you'd need an electrician for that ... whereas a Home Automation switch would be a DIY fit. For example - you could have a Smart Plug for the Pump and then use the APP on your phone to turn on a "task" (run pump for 5 minutes) - very cheep but maybe not very convenient! However, you would also be able to do a "bedtime" routine, which would turn off (all) the smart plugs for TV, and so on. Might as well have that also do the "5 minutes hot water pump" task too ... assuming you want some hot water when you get upstairs.

A WiFi Smart Switch near the bathroom would be an option - I haven't tried it, but I expect battery switches available for TP-Link Kasa / similar systems. You could just go with "5 minutes" and forget about whether return is hot already. How often would someone turn it on just after someone else ... maybe your farthest bathroom needs more than 5 minutes pump run, and the nearest / kitchen / etc. only a minute or two - all configurable based on which smart switch was pressed (and some empirical observation with the hand-on-pipe method to check how long it takes to get hot :) )

think they charge at 5kW each
...
be tight with 30kW storage though

is that 30 kWh PER battery ... or 15 kWh each and they EACH charge at 5kW ... so you then have 10kW to charge both simultaneously, but in a short time. Sorry if Granny+Eggs.
 
is that 30 kWh PER battery ... or 15 kWh each and they EACH charge at 5kW ... so you then have 10kW to charge both simultaneously, but in a short time. Sorry if Granny+Eggs.

It’s 3 x 10kW batteries (potentially) each Charging at 5kW I believe. But not 100% sure on that. Think the most I’ve seen the smart meter show me draining the grid so far was at 17+ kW. We have a 100A fuse but not sure what the max drain would be. Ie if charging a car at the same time as charging 3x batteries at 15kW plus the house at off peak. Idk TBH.
 
Single Phase Solar Edge inverters can only use 400 volt batteries, hence very limited choose of batteries. I would only put a battery on a Solar Edge inverter if export limitation prevents a separate AC connected battery system.

Solar Edge inverters don't have separate strings of panels so there is no need to match panels on different roof angles to strings. Other inverters even with per panel optimisors need all the panels on a single to have about same output, eg can't mix north and south facing on same string.

Octopus Flux rewards having batteries that can nearly completely be charged and discharged in 3 hours. However remember it's the unstable capacity so for exchange 20kwh raw capacity is not a bad match for 5kw charge/discharge rate.

What battery alternative are you looking at?
I am thinking of something like two Pylontech US5000 with a Solis 3.0kW 5G RAI Energy Storage AC Coupled. Maybe two sets to give 6kw charge/discharged with 18 kWh of useable capacity.
 
We have a 100A fuse but not sure what the max drain would be

I think 80% is the practical limit, if so I think? that would be 100 AMP fuse, 80 AMP max usage, at 230-240 volts that is 18.5 - 19 kW

But I've charged both cars and powerwalls at the same time - 2 x 7kW for the cars - including household usage that peaked at 16.7kW (100 AMP fuse)

But the PowerWalls took an hour longer to charge that night ... so they may have backed off on AMPs

Yup, checked the data and PowerWalls charged at 6.5kW all night and took 4h15m to complete. Max that the house drew from grid was 16.7kW

On a regular night they charge at 10AMPs but I (now) see that they drop to 6.5kW if car(s) is charging. When they charge for the whole time at 10AMPs they are done in a little over 3 hours

So might need consideration if Off Peak period is short, AND car charging is needed that night, and the Battery will reduce AMPs when it detects other circuits are using heavily.
 
I think 80% is the practical limit, if so I think? that would be 100 AMP fuse, 80 AMP max usage, at 230-240 volts that is 18.5 - 19 kW

But I've charged both cars and powerwalls at the same time - 2 x 7kW for the cars - including household usage that peaked at 16.7kW (100 AMP fuse)

In the depths of winter it is not unusual for my house to be pulling 22kW for 5 hours continuously. That’s about 95A on my 100A fuse and it’s been perfectly fine.
 
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