Steering/rubbing/clunking noise at low speed P90D w/ 99k miles

[siamnet]

I keep hearing a clunking/rubbing noise from the passenger side at low speed (either accelerating or slowing down).

Anyways, back to the noise, I'm the 2nd owner of a 2016 MS P90D (purchased in Canada with 99k miles) and had for 2 months now. Car ONLY has the battery and the drive train warranty until 2024. Build date is April 2016. It's not a refresh 2016.5.

Last week, I took my car to the non-Tesla dealership that I bought it from and they couldn't see any issues with the wheels or could hear the noise.

Yesterday, I took the car to my tire shop in Buffalo and they lifted the car to check all wheels (they were already replacing the TPMS sensors because the car wouldn't recognize the previous ones and Tesla technician suggested I try my winter wheels to see if it'll recognize or otherwise, buy $95/piece OEM sensors). They couldn't find anything wrong with the wheels rubbing/etc but do think it's something with the steering rack.

Today, I was tearing down my my car to install new speakers and was running new power wire from the frunk to the rear and happened to notice various rust spots in the frunk area:

I'm not sure if this is normal or not on the front drive shaft (or causing the noise):

Also, I do not think my car has the steering recall done yet (Model S Steering Assist Motor Bolt Recall). I did spray some WD40 and lubricant towards the steering linkage:

And I know many people have stated that the upper control arm (rust) is not a big deal since it's steel or it's just surface rust (but dang, Ontario winter hasn't been kind to this particular car):

Questions:
Should I reach out to Tesla service about the steering bolt recall and go on from there or should I also mention about the front drive shaft "issue" to see if it's covered? That will help narrow down where that noise is coming from if Tesla is going to pay for it or kindly point it out to me.

I know the control arm isn't going to be covered and may just find an Indy shop to replace them and also all the struts/shocks at the same time.

Thoughts/ideas/suggestions.

Thank you.

 

[PCMc]

Have you confirmed that your car is included in the steering bolt recall? Tesla has a site where you can supply your VIN and it should show you what open recalls apply to your car.

Service and diagnostic information for independent businesses and individuals involved in the professional maintenance and repair of Tesla vehicles.

service.tesla.com

Reason I mention this is steering bolt recall document mentions it applies to vehicles built before April 2016. Given you said your car was built in April 2016, then chance it's not applicable for you.

Sorry, not able to offer any suggests on your other concern. I've not experience any of that type of issue on my June 2016 build MS90D.

 

[siamnet]

Have you confirmed that your car is included in the steering bolt recall? Tesla has a site where you can supply your VIN and it should show you what open recalls apply to your car.

Service and diagnostic information for independent businesses and individuals involved in the professional maintenance and repair of Tesla vehicles.

service.tesla.com

Reason I mention this is steering bolt recall document mentions it applies to vehicles built before April 2016. Given you said your car was built in April 2016, then chance it's not applicable for you.

Sorry, not able to offer any suggests on your other concern. I've not experience any of that type of issue on my June 2016 build MS90D.

Thank you for the vin recall website and sadly, my VIN doesn't show up. Thank you.

 

[Lukez]

So the noise is only present when you accel or decel? Not if you are coasting over bumps?
If so I would say it's not suspension, and something between the wheels and drive unit, could be what you found there. I had the infamous clicking noise but at the rear when I accel and decel which is an easy fix, they pack the joint with grease.

If it's over bumps then it's suspension which is pretty common to need to replace and you can do it yourself if you are mechanical, which it appears you are since you took stuff apart already!

 

[siamnet]

So the noise is only present when you accel or decel? Not if you are coasting over bumps?
If so I would say it's not suspension, and something between the wheels and drive unit, could be what you found there. I had the infamous clicking noise but at the rear when I accel and decel which is an easy fix, they pack the joint with grease.

If it's over bumps then it's suspension which is pretty common to need to replace and you can do it yourself if you are mechanical, which it appears you are since you took stuff apart already!

Yes, the noise occurs over flat/smooth surfaces as well when I decel/accel (slowly).

Unfortunately, my mechanical skills with the car is limited to changing brake pads and rotors. I was actually taking the frunk apart to install power cable to the 12v battery to run my aftermarket amplifier and speakers. (My background is electrical eng and I don't have all the tools/strength to perform labor intensive jobs )

 

[Lukez]

Yes, the noise occurs over flat/smooth surfaces as well when I decel/accel (slowly).

Unfortunately, my mechanical skills with the car is limited to changing brake pads and rotors. I was actually taking the frunk apart to install power cable to the 12v battery to run my aftermarket amplifier and speakers. (My background is electrical eng and I don't have all the tools/strength to perform labor intensive jobs )

Maybe the cv joint? You'll have to bring it in to service for them to take a look at it.

 

[siamnet]

I send the photos (that I posted in this forum) to Tesla and they send me an estimate. They don't even address that "loose" rusted parts on the driveshaft at all. They haven't even look at this car or taken it out for a test drive and pointed to the front upper control arm as the "culprit".
It doesn't show the parts as being charged but only charging me for labor (I assumed that the upper control arm was not under warranty)???

Should I go through with getting this fixed by them not that I have much choice in terms of 3rd party mechanics in my area that knows how to work on Teslas?

 

[Lukez]

They usually just guess on the estimate, once you bring it in they will look at the cause.
Honestly I would remove anything you said about the control arm and let them diagnose it when you bring it in, that's is what the diagnosis fee is for.
If I was in your shoes I would reword it to exactly what you are experiencing, remove the pictures and not do anything with the estimate, you don't have to approve it before your appointment. If for some reason they say you have to then tell them to remove the control arm as you don't think that is the issue.
Then bring it in on your service date and leg them tell you what it is.
A rusty control arm like you saw doesn't mean its bad especially if you were able to get an alignment. They can pick up on bad control arms pretty quick.

 

[siamnet]

They usually just guess on the estimate, once you bring it in they will look at the cause.
Honestly I would remove anything you said about the control arm and let them diagnose it when you bring it in, that's is what the diagnosis fee is for.
If I was in your shoes I would reword it to exactly what you are experiencing, remove the pictures and not do anything with the estimate, you don't have to approve it before your appointment. If for some reason they say you have to then tell them to remove the control arm as you don't think that is the issue.
Then bring it in on your service date and leg them tell you what it is.
A rusty control arm like you saw doesn't mean its bad especially if you were able to get an alignment. They can pick up on bad control arms pretty quick.

My diagnosis for this is tomorrow (Tuesday 8/23) and we'll see what they say. I removed the upper control arms pictures and made a "fresh" request and they weren't able to provide an new estimate.
Thank you.

 

[Lukez]

My diagnosis for this is tomorrow (Tuesday 8/23) and we'll see what they say. I removed the upper control arms pictures and made a "fresh" request and they weren't able to provide an new estimate.
Thank you.

Good luck, let us know the outcome!

 

[Alysashley79]

Control arms don’t usually make a peep on flat surfaces but when turning or going over bumps the links however do make all kinds of noises. When you say clunk. Do you mean CLUNK is it heard outside the car or only inside.if tesla is only charging you that amount for control arms. Pay and run that’s cheap.

 

[siamnet]

Here is Tesla's estimate:

and they want to replace the upper front RIGHT control arm (1st generation):

I haven't approved this yet but I feel like the drive shaft is something I need them to fix but was hoping it was under some warranty but I guess it's not considered part of the "motor" (which is still under warranty till 2024).

 

[siamnet]

Control arms don’t usually make a peep on flat surfaces but when turning or going over bumps the links however do make all kinds of noises. When you say clunk. Do you mean CLUNK is it heard outside the car or only inside.if tesla is only charging you that amount for control arms. Pay and run that’s cheap.

I hear the noise from inside the car.

 

[Lukez]

Really up to you what you want to do. It sounds like it has to get done but I'd still question the control arm. The upper right control arm is a Pita but aftermarket replacement is much cheaper and your labor is free. Only you can decide if you want to do it.

 

[siamnet]

Really up to you what you want to do. It sounds like it has to get done but I'd still question the control arm. The upper right control arm is a Pita but aftermarket replacement is much cheaper and your labor is free. Only you can decide if you want to do it.

I wish i approve just the driveshaft fix and address the control arm later from the app but it's all one estimate.
I've contacted one non-Tesla mechanic/shop in the GTA but they never bother responding to me and if you know of any Tesla shops in the GTA then please let me know.
Thanks.

 

[Lukez]

I'd recommend using non tesla repair shops for all the other control arms but the uppers I would do myself or have tesla do it. They are just too involved to trust someone that has never done it before (you need to remove the frunk and 12v battery), unless your 12v is in a different spot? Do you know where your 12v is?

Looks like if you have the refresh (post April 2016) you don't have to deal with the 12v but still need to remove the frunk and makes the job much easier.

 

[siamnet]

I'd recommend using non tesla repair shops for all the other control arms but the uppers I would do myself or have tesla do it. They are just too involved to trust someone that has never done it before (you need to remove the frunk and 12v battery), unless your 12v is in a different spot? Do you know where your 12v is?

My 12v is in the frunk.
Tesla just updated their estimate to include replacing the sway bar link as well.

 

[Lukez]

My 12v is in the frunk.
Tesla just updated their estimate to include replacing the sway bar link as well.

Do you have the refresh model s or nosecone?

 

[siamnet]

Do you have the refresh model s or nosecone?

Pre-refreshed with a build date of April 2016.

 

[Lukez]

Your 12v is probably in the way of the control arm then and I'd recommend tesla do it if you don't want to do it yourself.
FYI the control arm costs about $100 Canadian, aftermarket.