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Tein EnduraPro Plus - Review

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I’m running the Flex Z’s a couple clicks softer in the rear too. 6 clicks open from full stuff up front and 8 clicks in the rear. Still a tad bit of bounce coming off speed bumps in the rear so I’ll adjust one more click stiffer.

I would caution opening up the dampers too much, while it may be softer, the oscillations after road imperfections will become more apparent
Honestly hard to diagnose with the butt dyno whether it's too soft or not soft enough. Guess I'll just have adjust it a few times to know
 
I put them back on yesterday and set them to 9 front 13 rear. Coming straight from the MPP coils, it definitely feels a little soft and floaty. Since I have a SR+ (no rear swaybar), I may think about adding a rear swaybar to get back a little bit of that handling prowess I got from the MPP's.

If you're looking for a sportier ride, something like 5 front/8 rear might be a good starting point. When I initially set them up at 8/8, they rode a little better than stock on most surfaces and didn't give up any sportiness at all, in fact probably handled a bit better than stock.
Would it be possible to only have the rear OEM shock replaced with the teins? The Oem front rides fine for me. I just want to DIY it and the front installation is kind of too complicated for me.
 
Sure, when I bought mine, you could buy front/rear pairs only. I have heard that they are moving towards marketing them more as a full set, but just check ebay for a rear pair.

Rear shock installation is quite easy. The front sucks--even with tons of experience, I still get a little spooked every time I use spring compressors.
 
I put them back on yesterday and set them to 9 front 13 rear. Coming straight from the MPP coils, it definitely feels a little soft and floaty. Since I have a SR+ (no rear swaybar), I may think about adding a rear swaybar to get back a little bit of that handling prowess I got from the MPP's.

If you're looking for a sportier ride, something like 5 front/8 rear might be a good starting point. When I initially set them up at 8/8, they rode a little better than stock on most surfaces and didn't give up any sportiness at all, in fact probably handled a bit better than stock.
Thank you! Just got mine installed at Parts3xpress in LA and I have a 2018 Model 3 AWD LR. Winston set it up at 10/10, and it does feel a little floaty.
He offered to adjust the rear for me once if I really didn't like the 10 in the back.

Been looking at the front and seeing if I can adjust it by slipping my hand in without taking out the frunk. What's the size of the wrench at the top of the damper? Maybe I will do a 7 or so. I assume a 5/10 combination would be unbalanced, although I don't know what that means.
 
You don't need a wrench to adjust the fronts, just your fingers. But you do have to pull out the frunk (maybe not if you have super skinny hands/arms?) Pulling out the frunk is pretty easy-5 minutes tops. The front's are actually quite a bit easier to adjust than the rears, IMO. Rears require a jack and removing the wheel to adjust.

I set mine with the rears softer because these shocks seem to come from Tein with a much stiffer rear compared to the front. Other users have confirmed this as well. But they're adjustable, so just fiddle with it until you're happy :)
 
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You don't need a wrench to adjust the fronts, just your fingers. But you do have to pull out the frunk (maybe not if you have super skinny hands/arms?) Pulling out the frunk is pretty easy-5 minutes tops. The front's are actually quite a bit easier to adjust than the rears, IMO. Rears require a jack and removing the wheel to adjust.

I set mine with the rears softer because these shocks seem to come from Tein with a much stiffer rear compared to the front. Other users have confirmed this as well. But they're adjustable, so just fiddle with it until you're happy
With the top cover removed, I can see the adjustments. I can also touch them but can't get my hands in to turn the knob, hence the question on the size of the Allen wrench that would go on that. I have seen somewhere that someone drilled a hole on the cover to more easily adjust the front settings. Will try to do that before pulling the frunk.

Unfortunately, I don't have a good way of fiddling the back. Sounds like I do have to jack the car up and take apart a few things before I can get to the adjustment. Will leave that at 10 for now as that sounds like the middle of the range adjustment at this point, and focus on playing with the fronts.

Thanks!
 
You don't need a wrench to adjust the fronts, just your fingers. But you do have to pull out the frunk (maybe not if you have super skinny hands/arms?) Pulling out the frunk is pretty easy-5 minutes tops. The front's are actually quite a bit easier to adjust than the rears, IMO. Rears require a jack and removing the wheel to adjust.

I set mine with the rears softer because these shocks seem to come from Tein with a much stiffer rear compared to the front. Other users have confirmed this as well. But they're adjustable, so just fiddle with it until you're happy :)
Do I have to remove the rear bump stop from the dust boot?
 
There was enough of a gap on the passenger side to slip my hand in after pulling the first tab out (after taking out the top cover and air vent cover.) The head was a 3mm hex, but that didn't really do the adjustment that I thought it would. Also was not able to hear/feel clicks, so gave up on that. Took the 7 bolts out and pulled the frunk piece a little, and that made it easy to reach out to do the work on both side. If the wrench had worked, I would have considered drilling a hole on the plastic piece so I can stick a wrench in and adjust it without all this disassembly, assuming I am going to adjust it often.

Decided to set it to 6 front (with 10 in the back as set by installer). That's probably a bit aggressive and not the best balance with the back, but let's see how it goes. I know I can dial it back to 7 or 8, which should be optimal by the sound of the discussions on this forum. If I like the 6 on the front, then I need to decide if I should tighten the back from 10. @Heckraiser seems to be using a softer rear than 10, so maybe this is already optimal.

While I was at it, I also changed out the air filter and cleaned the AC system. There are other articles about that here along with Youtube videos, so I will skip it here. Must say I find it extremely convenient to be able to watch Youtube on the car display while doing this work!
 
Do I have to remove the rear bump stop from the dust boot?

What I did the second time around is I cut off ALL the bumpstop except the fattest section and then used that to pressure-fit the dust boot into the recess in the top hat (front and rear). So you'll have to remove the dust boot and bump stop in order to cut the bump stop and re-install both.

If you keep the whole bump stop, you'll just be riding the bump stops all the time, just like stock. I think they should be cut down to take advantage of the Tein's internal bump and additional travel.
 
What I did the second time around is I cut off ALL the bumpstop except the fattest section and then used that to pressure-fit the dust boot into the recess in the top hat (front and rear). So you'll have to remove the dust boot and bump stop in order to cut the bump stop and re-install both.

If you keep the whole bump stop, you'll just be riding the bump stops all the time, just like stock. I think they should be cut down to take advantage of the Tein's internal bump and additional travel.
Do the Tein’s have an internal bump?? Seems redundant to have a have an internal bump plus an additional external. Unless they thought it needed it? @P3D-R thoughts on trimming the Flex Z rear bump stops for additional travel?
 
The Teins have an internal bump design. They do not come with bumpstops, but if you want to keep your factory dust boots, you need to keep at least part of the stock bumpstop in order to hold up the dust boots. I also personally decided it would be good to have at least *some* physical bumpstop to prevent overly abusing the shocks. I have no idea if that's necessary or not and the Tein instructions don't address it in any way. What's left of my factory bump stops is probably about 1" of foam rubber, so MUCH smaller than they used to be.
 
I installed the MPP comfort non-adjustable coilovers this weekend. I've driven on them a couple days now.

In the "MPP comfort coilover reviews" thread I kept reading "firmer, but smoother than stock," which didn't really make sense to me, but I think that is the most accurate description. They feel firm like a European OEM sport suspension. Firm, but not harsh. Driving over BIG undulations like railroad crossings and drainage dips, the car is much more controlled than with the Teins adjusted to medium soft. Less wallowing around, no floatiness whatsoever, and well controlled. Also NO CLUNKING. The Teins always had an ugly clunking noise over certain *really awful* road imperfections that sounded like the shock topping out (hitting the maximum extension). I think the improvement in "smoothness" and control comes from the quality of the KW shock. I think the MPP spring rates are very similar to stock, which is still firmer than I would like.

Without a question, the MPP coilovers improve handling significantly, which wasn't at all my goal, but it is fun! By comparison, when I got the Teins adjusted to my ride quality preference (meduim soft), handling went a little sloppy. I was fine with that, and it was expected.

So which is better? I guess it's a matter of preference. I think I'm happier with the MPP coilovers, but I got them used. At full price, I might be feeling some buyer's remorse from a purely ride comfort standpoint. If you're looking for a handling upgrade, that's a different story. The benefit of the MPP comes from a truly matched spring rate with a high quality shock. But I kind of feel like a product marketed as "comfort" should go a little softer or perhaps dual/variable rate spring (MPP springs are linear like stock). I still think the Tein EnduraPro Plus are a very good value and do offer an appreciable improvement over the stock shocks.

This whole experience has me thinking the Flex Z coilovers might be the ticket for a matched spring/shock at a better price than new MPP comfort coilovers. I have heard anecdotally that they are a little softer, and the shocks are adjustable too. I don't think Tein shock quality is on par with KW, but both are much better than stock.
I've had the flex z for about 4 months on my 2022 M3P. I'm pretty happy with them. I've got them adjusted to the middle setting and they are firmer with better handling. I'm pretty tolerant of a harsh ride though but my Mom drives with me sometimes and she has said it's a nice ride and she's near 70 so..... Probably not on the level of KW but that's what money buys.
 
Decided to set it to 6 front (with 10 in the back as set by installer). That's probably a bit aggressive and not the best balance with the back, but let's see how it goes. I know I can dial it back to 7 or 8, which should be optimal by the sound of the discussions on this forum. If I like the 6 on the front, then I need to decide if I should tighten the back from 10.
How is this setting feeling?
 
My experience with just install the new shocks with 2021 MYLR springs is the car is much more livable.

I have 10/13 setup right now, initially had 12/15 its softer on big bumps but bounce around a bit too much.

Not sure if the 2023 comfort suspension is really softer someone can probably compare their unload height to see