I'm curious how the Teins are holding up. I'm very interested in getting a set for my 2022 MYP. I would have to find an experienced Tesla mechanic to install them though. What settings seem to remove the harshness of the 2022 MYP ride without sacrificing handling?
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Tein EnduraPro Plus - Review
- Thread starter Heckraiser
- Start date
canasion35
Active Member
Awesome thread everyone, some really good information here.
I should be receiving my EnduraPro Plus shocks for my 2023 Model Y LR over the next week or so after waiting for a while for them to be available from Tein.
I have one major question, is the replacement of the shocks a reasonable DIY job? I have the tools, and the space but have only ever replaced rear shocks on a car in the past and that was probably a lot less complex than the Tesla setup. Is there a written or video guide somewhere to follow?
I should be receiving my EnduraPro Plus shocks for my 2023 Model Y LR over the next week or so after waiting for a while for them to be available from Tein.
I have one major question, is the replacement of the shocks a reasonable DIY job? I have the tools, and the space but have only ever replaced rear shocks on a car in the past and that was probably a lot less complex than the Tesla setup. Is there a written or video guide somewhere to follow?
You can definitely DIY the entire install. The rears are very easy and straight forward. Just make sure to torque everything back to spec and you should be good to go.
I'm close to ordering a set of shocks myself for our 23' MYP. The suspension on the 23s is actually a lot better and bearable than even the 22 MYP. With how decent the 23s are I'm confident that I could get away with just replacing/softening up the rears only with TEIN shocks, but it's hard to find just the rears now as they seemed to have cut down on that and are selling them as full sets now.
Good luck and keep us posted! If you have any questions feel free to reach out.
Thanks. The torque specs - where can I find them?
I’ve just found a written guide with pictures for fitting unplugged performance coilovers which I suspect I could follow with a couple of tweaks, and it has some torque values but wondered if these were specific to their kit? Unplugged Performance Model Y - Installation Guide
The torque specs from the video that are related to any of the stock components/bolts can be used. I'll try to see if I can find the TEIN diagram to see if that has any specifics on there, but if I recall it didn't have much other than just a bunch of drawings/diagrams that were almost useless.
I fitted the rear shock absorbers this afternoon, it was incredibly easy and if I hadn’t done some stupid things like leave the dust cover and bump stops off and only notice after I’d refitted and torqued everything up on the first side, then I’d say it would have taken me in total about 45 minutes.
Some points of note;
I found two great videos which helped;
1. Rear -
2. Front -
(I’ll follow this when I get around to doing the fronts.
How does it drive with just the rears swapped? Well, I’ve only done a brief 10 minute test over a route I’m very familiar with and it does seem that a good amount of the low speed ‘bounciness’ that I didn’t like has gone away. I can definitely feel that the front is stiffer so hoping that changing the front shock absorbers will fix this and get rid of the rest. The car always felt unsettled and bouncy to me at lower speeds as if it had been badly lowered, but actually over 40-50mph depending on the road it was OK. I have a longer drive coming up tomorrow which will involve motorways so I’ll also report back after that. I’m hoping that I’ll be able to fit the fronts at some point next week as I’ve ordered a spring compressor which I understand is needed for the fronts in order to get the top hat off.
Some points of note;
- The shocks I received have 26/27 ‘clicks’ of adjustment instead of the 16 which has been widely mentioned here and elsewhere. I have currently set mine at 6 clicks from the softest setting.
- I was expecting to have to remove far more bolts than I actually needed to. The procedure is basically;
- Jack the car up, remove the wheel
- Unclip the wheel arch liner with three pull out fasteners
- Remove the lower control arm plastic cover with a single bolt
- Loosen but not quite remove the two upper top hat bolts
- Remove the single lower bolt which holds the bottom of the shock into the control arm
- Carefully remove the two upper bolts and the whole shock will drop down (be prepared to catch it )
- Remove shock, it might need compressing by hand a tiny bit to get it out
- Once the OEM shock is out, the top hat, dust cover and bump stop need to be transferred over to the Tein. @Heckraiser makes the right decision IMHO by cutting and only using the top part of the bump stop, and putting the dust cover on upside down.
- The bolt keeping the top hat on will spin the piston rod so you’ll need to find a way to stop this happening, I used a locking mole grip and a piece of rubber to prevent damage to the rod and add a bit more grip. The same is true for putting the Tein bolt back on.
- I actually think that it will be possible the get at the adjuster on top without taking the shock absorber out. The top hat sits proud of the bodywork by at least a couple of inches because of some box sections. I should be able to get to the adjuster with fingers by just taking the wheel off and unclipping the arch liner and a rubber dust cap which sits over the top of the mount. If not, then just unbolting the two top bolts and angling the shock absorber towards you a bit will definitely allow it.
I found two great videos which helped;
1. Rear -
How does it drive with just the rears swapped? Well, I’ve only done a brief 10 minute test over a route I’m very familiar with and it does seem that a good amount of the low speed ‘bounciness’ that I didn’t like has gone away. I can definitely feel that the front is stiffer so hoping that changing the front shock absorbers will fix this and get rid of the rest. The car always felt unsettled and bouncy to me at lower speeds as if it had been badly lowered, but actually over 40-50mph depending on the road it was OK. I have a longer drive coming up tomorrow which will involve motorways so I’ll also report back after that. I’m hoping that I’ll be able to fit the fronts at some point next week as I’ve ordered a spring compressor which I understand is needed for the fronts in order to get the top hat off.
I fitted the rear shock absorbers this afternoon, it was incredibly easy and if I hadn’t done some stupid things like leave the dust cover and bump stops off and only notice after I’d refitted and torqued everything up on the first side, then I’d say it would have taken me in total about 45 minutes.
Some points of note;
- The shocks I received have 26/27 ‘clicks’ of adjustment instead of the 16 which has been widely mentioned here and elsewhere. I have currently set mine at 6 clicks from the softest setting.
- I was expecting to have to remove far more bolts than I actually needed to. The procedure is basically;
- Jack the car up, remove the wheel
- Unclip the wheel arch liner with three pull out fasteners
- Remove the lower control arm plastic cover with a single bolt
- Loosen but not quite remove the two upper top hat bolts
- Remove the single lower bolt which holds the bottom of the shock into the control arm
- Carefully remove the two upper bolts and the whole shock will drop down (be prepared to catch it
- Remove shock, it might need compressing by hand a tiny bit to get it out
- Once the OEM shock is out, the top hat, dust cover and bump stop need to be transferred over to the Tein. @Heckraiser makes the right decision IMHO by cutting and only using the top part of the bump stop, and putting the dust cover on upside down.
- The bolt keeping the top hat on will spin the piston rod so you’ll need to find a way to stop this happening, I used a locking mole grip and a piece of rubber to prevent damage to the rod and add a bit more grip. The same is true for putting the Tein bolt back on.
- I actually think that it will be possible the get at the adjuster on top without taking the shock absorber out. The top hat sits proud of the bodywork by at least a couple of inches because of some box sections. I should be able to get to the adjuster with fingers by just taking the wheel off and unclipping the arch liner and a rubber dust cap which sits over the top of the mount. If not, then just unbolting the two top bolts and angling the shock absorber towards you a bit will definitely allow it.
I found two great videos which helped;
1. Rear -2. Front -(I’ll follow this when I get around to doing the fronts.
How does it drive with just the rears swapped? Well, I’ve only done a brief 10 minute test over a route I’m very familiar with and it does seem that a good amount of the low speed ‘bounciness’ that I didn’t like has gone away. I can definitely feel that the front is stiffer so hoping that changing the front shock absorbers will fix this and get rid of the rest. The car always felt unsettled and bouncy to me at lower speeds as if it had been badly lowered, but actually over 40-50mph depending on the road it was OK. I have a longer drive coming up tomorrow which will involve motorways so I’ll also report back after that. I’m hoping that I’ll be able to fit the fronts at some point next week as I’ve ordered a spring compressor which I understand is needed for the fronts in order to get the top hat off.
Great work. Pretty satisfying huh? Good on you for tackling it yourself. Kudos. As you've found it's really not that hard at all and anyone can do it as long as they have the right tools etc...
You did the right thing in cutting the bump stops and using the top 1/3, especially with the shocks having built in bump stops. If going with a really soft setting (near full open valve) with putting in the full bump stop (uncut piece), which I have experienced a lot in a Y with the same shocks, it will hit those often and IMO takes away from the full capabilities of the shocks to do what it was design to do. ie... limiting the range of travel and hitting the bump stops prematurely.
As for the bolts on the top hat, I'd recommend picking up a set of 3/8" pass through socket set, which can be had for ~$35 for a decent set. This will come in handy for your future installs.
I've found the clicks to vary from 26-28 on the ones that I've installed. After a certain point the valve is fully open so the clicks after that point, which is estimated around ~20+/- become imaginary clicks that don't do anything. This is why it's important to always go from Full Close, then work your way up since you can determine for certain what full close is.
While you have just the rear shocks in, try adjusting the rears to 16 from full close for cracks & giggles and see how you like it with the stock front shocks still in. I think you'll be surprised on how much it changes (improves) the ride with just the rears set to full soft (16). Suspension geometry and how a car handles bumps etc... it's pretty fascinating.
Oh btw did your TEIN shocks come with the wire adjusters that you can clip on top of the bolt to conveniently adjust the shocks? Some kits come with it, while some don't. It's odd, but I think the older kits came with them and they started not including them in the newer ones. Still a mystery.
Great work and looking forward to seeing your progress.
/ Typing this from my phone as I'm adjusting my coilovers.
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ThanksGreat work. Pretty satisfying huh? Good on you for tackling it yourself. Kudos. As you've found it's really not that hard at all and anyone can do it as long as they have the right tools etc...
You did the right thing in cutting the bump stops and using the top 1/3, especially with the shocks having built in bump stops. If going with a really soft setting (near full open valve) with putting in the full bump stop (uncut piece), which I have experienced a lot in a Y with the same shocks, it will hit those often and IMO takes away from the full capabilities of the shocks to do what it was design to do. ie... limiting the range of travel and hitting the bump stops prematurely.
As for the bolts on the top hat, I'd recommend picking up a set of 3/8" pass through socket set, which can be had for ~$35 for a decent set. This will come in handy for your future installs.
I've found the clicks to vary from 26-28 on the ones that I've installed. After a certain point the valve is fully open so the clicks after that point, which is estimated around ~20+/- become imaginary clicks that don't do anything. This is why it's important to always go from Full Close, then work your way up since you can determine for certain what full close is.
While you have just the rear shocks in, try adjusting the rears to 16 from full close for cracks & giggles and see how you like it with the stock front shocks still in. I think you'll be surprised on how much it changes (improves) the ride with just the rears set to full soft (16). Suspension geometry and how a car handles bumps etc... it's pretty fascinating.
Oh btw did your TEIN shocks come with the wire adjusters that you can clip on top of the bolt to conveniently adjust the shocks? Some kits come with it, while some don't. It's odd, but I think the older kits came with them and they started not including them in the newer ones. Still a mystery.
Great work and looking forward to seeing your progress.
/ Typing this from my phone as I'm adjusting my coilovers.
No adjusters supplies, that was something I was also going to mention but forgot. Since there is some space maybe I’ll speak with Tein and see if they can send some out.
Interesting point about the phantom clicks, I’ll have to get the fronts on a set of scales and see if there’s any differences.
FYI, I’ve also started a thread in the Model Y section about this, as I’m sure there are others who may be interested and there will be differences between a M3 and MY in terms of this suspension change (especially as the main complaint from MY owners is the suspension).
I’ll post my updates on that thread as they’re specific to a MY.
teslamotorsclub.com
I’ll post my updates on that thread as they’re specific to a MY.
Tein EnduraPro Plus adjustable shock absorbers fitted
I thought it was worth adding a thread here in the Model Y Driving Dynamics section to talk about the above suspension upgrade. There is a good thread in the Model 3 area here Tein EnduraPro Plus - Review and I’m sure a lot of it is transferable and relevant to both models, but there are...
teslamotorsclub.com
I just had tein flex z installed on my model 3 and the installer set it to 10 front/12 rear. Car is lowered to 355mm all around. I requested for a subtle drop but he said this was the best drop that could be done. The ride is pretty smooth on local streets and highway is pretty comfortable as well. But I found that whenever I go over regular speed bumps, it will have lot of bouncing and feels floaty and actually I bottomed out pretty bad. I've been looking for instructions on how to adjust the front dampers. I know the rear needs to put the car on a jack and remove the wheels to adjust, but can someone give me the instructions or point me to any video that can tell me how to adjust the front dampers? If its doable for me to try myself I would like to try this weekend. If not, I can go back to the installer to ask them to readjust sometime next week.
Would setting front to 8 or 9 resolve the bouncing, floatyness and bottoming out?
Which damper settings would you recommend me to do?
Would setting front to 8 or 9 resolve the bouncing, floatyness and bottoming out?
Which damper settings would you recommend me to do?
canasion35
Active Member
Depends what you mean by 10/12 clicks. Go from full stiff (turn knob all the right clockwise until it stops) and turn counterclockwise 4 clicks in the front and 6 clicks in the rear. I have them set there and really like it. Feels perfectly dampened to me.
It should take away any floating feeling. If you still feel it, turn the settings one click stiffer. It’s pretty easy DIY in the front - take out the frunk and adjust the damper with the knob. Rear you need to take the rear tire off to adjust…
By "10/12 clicks", i believe the installer meant that he set it to be counterclockwise 6 clicks in the front, so that would mean 16-6 = 10. And then counterclockwise 4 clicks for the rear, so that would mean 16-4 = 12.
But then the next day after, he said he set the front to be stiffer than the rears. So maybe it is 12 front and 10 rear instead which would mean counterclockwise 4 clicks in front and 6 clicks in the rear is already set as you suggested?
it means 10 clicks front, counted from the closed (full stiff or 0) position counterclockwise, and 12 clicks rear.
canasion35
Active Member
Did you go to autoRnD? If so I’d bring it back and let them know what you’re feeling (float on bumps, etc.) and they’ll know what to do.
If you’re really at 4 clicks open (from full stiff) on the front and 6 clicks open (from full stiff) on the rear I can understand a small amount of float/bounce but it should be very minimal…now that I think of it I’m at 3 clicks open front and 5 clicks open in the rear. I adjusted them a month or so back to get rid of any remaining under dampened feel that you’re describing.
I was able to get to the front dampers by just removing 1 frunk bolt, vent cover, and the bolt holding the tub to the windshield fluid resevoir. Lifted up both sides at the corners and could reach underneath the housing with my hand enough to adjust the knob . I set the front to 8 clicks and will see how it feels in the morning and report back. Hopefully the bounce/floatyness will be improved or gone.
I did request autoRND to set it to be the best setting for comfortability as I told him my wife will also drive it sometimes and usually have kids in car so he set it softer at 10/12.
I was also able to adjust the rear dampers by jacking up car high enough for the wheel to droop down and have access to the black rubber buttons to adjust. I set it to 10. So now I have Front 8 clicks and Rear 10 clicks. Drove it to work the past 2 days and the ride is much better from first having it at 10/12. It is still very comfortable though, and here's what I think so far.
10/12: Comfortable on local streets and freeway and absorbs very well, but car feels very floaty and like a boat. Going over speed bumps will have lot of bounce and if slightly going over too fast, will bottom out.
8/10: Still comfortable on local streets and freeway and can feel slightly stiffer. Going over speed bumps still have bounce but is lesser and if slightly going over too fast, it is better but i can almost feel it is close to bottoming out.
Next thing I'll try is setting to 6/8 or 4/6 and hopefully it will be just right for stiffness and comfortability and possibly get rid of any bounce or fear of bottoming out if going over speed bumps slightly too fast, or at least to improve absorbing it and over bumps in road or freeway.
What are your overall experiences for the damper settings?
10/12: Comfortable on local streets and freeway and absorbs very well, but car feels very floaty and like a boat. Going over speed bumps will have lot of bounce and if slightly going over too fast, will bottom out.
8/10: Still comfortable on local streets and freeway and can feel slightly stiffer. Going over speed bumps still have bounce but is lesser and if slightly going over too fast, it is better but i can almost feel it is close to bottoming out.
Next thing I'll try is setting to 6/8 or 4/6 and hopefully it will be just right for stiffness and comfortability and possibly get rid of any bounce or fear of bottoming out if going over speed bumps slightly too fast, or at least to improve absorbing it and over bumps in road or freeway.
What are your overall experiences for the damper settings?
canasion35
Active Member
Go 6/8 F/R - you’ll be happier with that based off your response here. I’m at 3/5 and happy but I like very dampened feel which is a little too rough for most.
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