Hi I keep hearing conflicting stories so maybe I could get advice here. Need control arm replaced and some say most experienced tesla suspension shops can do but others have said has to be done at dealer because of the way the car has to be lifted and potential damages to battery and suspension if lifted uneven
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Tesla suspension repairs outside of dealer
- Thread starter mcole1170
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- control arm
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
There is no reason why any competent suspension shop couldn’t replace a control arm on a Tesla. The car has very well marked lift/jack points, it’s not rocket science.
If you have air suspension make sure the car is put in jack mode first. Other than that - there’s no magic.
If you have air suspension make sure the car is put in jack mode first. Other than that - there’s no magic.
Brass Guy
Active Member
I've changed both my front upper control arms myself. (Worn ball joints, different times.) It's really not a big deal.
Brass Guy
Active Member
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Did you Google EV repair? I've heard Chevy dealerships are starting to work on Tesla's. A European car shop would could help.
Just replaced the front right upper control arm (due to the ball joint of course) & front right air strut (the shaft seal had a small leak) myself on Sunday. If it wasn't for the high heat & humidity I was working in, the entire job would have been done in less than an hr.
Brass Guy
Active Member
I did not look for aftermarket parts for suspension.
I did use 3rd party brake rotors/pads when I replaced the front brakes. (Everything wore unevenly since the pads froze to the calipers. I needed to use the brakes more.) Tesla's rotors are outrageous.
I did use 3rd party brake rotors/pads when I replaced the front brakes. (Everything wore unevenly since the pads froze to the calipers. I needed to use the brakes more.) Tesla's rotors are outrageous.
I got my front aft control arms and cam bolts for my 15 MS85D from here:
Model S Suspension & Related
EVPartsOnline.com is your one-stop shop for all Tesla Model S suspension and related parts. We carry a wide range of products, including coilovers, shocks, struts, and more, to help you keep your car in top condition. Shop today!
evpartsonline.com
Here in NY we have an annual inspection that is required. And while apparently a lot of suspension problems (like a ball-joint ready to fall off) wouldn't fail the inspection... My trusted garage gives the wheels a good push-pull while it's up in the air in a number of directions and says "yep, you need upper rear bushings and front rear ball-joints".
Otherwise you might possibly notice things like noises or the car handling weird, odd tire wear, etc...
houstonian
ಠ_ಠ
@mcole1170 - yeah, car has to be lifted via jackpoints but jackpoints are common enough where any competent suspension shop will know how to use them.
Suggest you speak with the shop prior to them starting work - ideally the tech who'll be doing the work - and advise him/her to use them.
You can always print a copy of this: Model S Owner's Manual | Tesla (jackpoints) and give it to the shop as well.
Normally I don't always go aftermarket, but I did end up going with an aftermarket upper control arm. Tesla wanted about 4-5x the cost (got one for ~$57, and Tesla was around ~$250 for the part). For the air strut, I found a NIB OEM unit on eBay for $450.00, and Tesla wanted $990.00 for the one part. I did get a new Voss fitting (for the air line, $9.90) & a new nut/bolt (for where the control arm connects to the knuckle, $0.59/$1.19) from Tesla. To be honest, I think the aftermarket one had a better build quality than the Tesla OEM one I took off as the stamped steel was marginally thicker, and it had far better welds. I know the old one was a Tesla part, as it had a sticker on it but I doubt it was the original one because the torx head of the bolt was partially rounded out.
Hi All, on my 2013 MS P85 I replaced both front lower control arms and sway links. Watched couple videos on replacing upper front control arms and started the job. I can't figure out how to get to the rear control arm bolt since it looks like the battery is back there so just put everything back for now. Really want to finish the job before alignment. Some people seem to get in 1-2hr. Is it really that hard to get to the rear bolt?
If it's the one I am thinking of you have to cut the head off of the bolt. The new bolt would have to be inserted from the other side and a nut put on the side you cut the head off. That is what the SC does.
Yup, there's ones in the back like that too. You'd think they could figure that out when they assembled it.
Last I looked the service manual actually calls for removing the battery to replace them.
They faced the bolt that way for a reason. The suspension is assembled before the battery is installed. By installing the bolt away from the pack, it reduces the likelihood of the tip damaging the pack when it is inserted.
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