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The Unofficial Aftermarket Air Suspension Thread
- Thread starter Thomas Edison
- Start date
eglove
Member
Actually you just need to pull the 12v trigger source from a "keyed" ignition source that is on only when the vehicle is in the on state. Like the trailer brake controller power. That's what I will be using. I think the solid state relay that some people use is way over complicated. Or you can use the 12v accessory power as the trigger. Also only on when the vehicle is "on".
You still need to tap main power from the battery. The 12v ignition source is to turn on the manifold. The solid state relay is a fool proof way to turn off your manifold/compressors. You can pull it from somewhere else but don’t say I didn’t warn you if your battery dies.
Taking it from the trailer brake controller plug is an even more full proof source of ignition 12v to turn on and off the manifold since I don't have to do anything with splicing wires and what not, and don't have to adda a relay that could go bad. It was made for this scenario. It is made to turn a brake controller on and off along with the vehicle. I have even already tested that it works as it should...like I said, that's what it was made for.
Can someone help me… I installed my air suspension and management. (All airlift) and my controller seems to be on all the time. It doesn’t turn off. I wired the system direct to the battery. Is that the wrong thing to do? If the system is not supposed to be wired to the battery, then where should it be wired to?
Thank you. Yes I did see that. I’m trying to find where one of those are on my model 3
The power wire should be to a direct 12v source, but there is also a "trigger" wire that should go to a switched 12v source that only gets power when the vehicle is in a state of "on". It is a little different for our cars since they are always on. I got this power source from the brake controller plug, which has a switched 12v source on it. Very easy to find, in the left kickplate area on the driver's side of a Y. Works wonderfully!
Didn’t want to start a new thread, but just had some general questions.
From my research so far it seems like most people are pleased with UAS bags. I’ve seen some bad stories with airtek and air demand. Anyone running bag riders bags or air lift? Just wanted opinions on the different options.
What’s the easiest trigger wire install on a model 3 for power off, I’m planning on going with 3p/h.
Also any suggestions where to order from? I’ve used bagriders in the past.
From my research so far it seems like most people are pleased with UAS bags. I’ve seen some bad stories with airtek and air demand. Anyone running bag riders bags or air lift? Just wanted opinions on the different options.
What’s the easiest trigger wire install on a model 3 for power off, I’m planning on going with 3p/h.
Also any suggestions where to order from? I’ve used bagriders in the past.
Not sure your main reasoning for bagging but most people who bag want the ground clearance at ride height and slammed look at park height. Being low static / bagged will yield potential battery damage. With that being said the approx highest heights possible is below from the current manufacturers. This is from ground to fender.
UAS bags is approx 34”
Airlift bags is approx 27”
Bagriders bags you probably be at 26” max height”
This is UAS btw.
I haven’t heard anything bad persay about bag riders but the max height doesn’t help me personally on driveways
Thanks for the pic, that ground clearance with UAS is crazy. I honestly don’t need that much, I’ve had a bagged car in the past so I know what I’m getting into. I was just kind of curious about the strut build quality and ride quality amongst the brands.
I see that bagriders bags have a limited lifetime warranty and made in-house and not overseas. I’d give them a try if your personal needs don’t need height. There’s a YT videos on bagriders bags on a Supra and they show the max lift. Also consult them on minimum PSI and travel as well.
Car looks great, I just saw a few people between here and Reddit having issues with the front struts leaking from the top and then just playing the waiting game with air demand to send them repair kits or replacements, not something I want to deal with on my daily driver.
Anybody have any input in regards to the 12v accessory wiring with the new lithium ion battery setup?
miss demeanor
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