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Things aTesla newbie needs to know..

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Ps.. IdI love to self build one day.. I think I'd better save that conversation for a different forum

You might find Navitron forum useful when you get to that point :)

A Tesla is a piece of technology ... Thus, it has that kind of "out of date within a year" rule

Hmmm ... not sure I agree on that point. OTA software updates mean that even ancient vehicles have the latest release. As it happens my AP1 is on a par with AP2, and clearly once we get to FSD then AP2.5 or AP3 hardware is going to be required, so mine will be too old to upgrade to that, but other than that I've now got loads of software-enhancements that I didn't have when the car was new.

Graphic Equaliser changed from 3-sliders to 5
Auto park
Summon
Auto-Detect car two-in-front is braking
Side intrusion detection
Huge improvements to AP1 compared to when new (same thing with AP2 cars too)
Keep climate on when not in car
Two significant revamps to Central Console (i.e. roughly annually). Didn't like the first one, I think current V9 is good - it has created space for more features to be added
Lots of enhancements to API, and ditto by 3rd party APP vendors taking advantage of that.
Fresh maps (several times a year I think?)
PIN to drive (released within a couple of months of all high-end cars getting nicked by key-fob-amplification thieves) Has any other manufacturer issued a retrospective fix AT ALL?

Must be a shed load more that I have forgotten. In all the years (decades in fact ...) I owned VW models I was never once, not ever, offered a firmware upgrade, not even for Hard Cash. Still had the crappy SatNav from factory (I expect upgrades exist, I was never offered one ...)
 
Thanks everyone, this thread continues to be a great source of info for me and others (and helps points us in the right direction for things that exist in other forums) so I sincerely thank you for taking the time

Had to go to Papworth today, so popped in to Cambridge Tesla (good, knowledgeable staff) on my way home.. sat in the MS while I was there, refused the test drive.. I'm loyal if nothing else! (No offence guys, it's just too expensive for me in all honesty, so thought best not take it for a ride)
I'm not sure how many times the M3 has had a facelift, but that's a beautiful car..

It's fair to say my excitement levels are through the roof atm.. cannot wait to configure, take delivery and ultimately drive my M3
 
Ha! Of course you can track your car across the pond.. is there nothing they haven't thought of? ..brilliant

Every day is like Xmas at the moment.. (without the family argument)

Anyone have any experience with trading in their car when buying a Tesla?
Basically, is it competitive.. (I think I could probably guess the answer to this one)

Also, how well do you do on stated miles against actual achievement?
Obviously, I know there a lot of variables to this question..
 
Anyone have any experience with trading in their car when buying a Tesla?
Basically, is it competitive.. (I think I could probably guess the answer to this one)

Also, how well do you do on stated miles against actual achievement?
Obviously, I know there a lot of variables to this question..
When I asked, Tesla gave a miserly valuation. They just shift cars through auction and I don't think this has changed - in fact even for people trading in a Tesla I think they aren't great.

Miles against actual? Well that's a whole other thread...
But for my MS, it will match or better the "Typical" range for the 6 warmest months of the year if driving at 60 mph or less.
At 70 it's a bit less, and the winter knocks about 20% off on long trips. The range sappers are headwind, rain, temperature; if critical it can mostly be compensated for by driving a bit slower.
The other thing that saps range is a lot of short journeys from cold - and Tesla's are relatively poor for loosing charge when parked (I see about 1-2 kWh per day). The Model 3 is meant to be more efficient but I don't know about standby losses.
 
, how well do you do on stated miles against actual achievement?

better than other brands, by all accounts. M3 is significantly better than MS / MX - lighter, plus the newer Tech on motors is more efficient.

Here's my rule of thumb:

My actual range at 75 MPH cruising (warm day, no wind) on Motorway is 220 miles (car is 3 years old and reasonably high-mileage, so some small loss of range compared to when-new)

Normal Daily charge is to 90%

I don't like to arrive with less than 10%

So I have 80% of that range "available daily" - so 176-ish miles

In torrential rain, or very cold weather, I could just possibly lose 20%. In reality I would slow down if either of those things was occurring, which would mitigate the range-reduction. I have had one journey, in a hurry outbound, arrived at 50% so thought that was OK as no hurry on way back, but torrential Summer rain on the way back meant I got home with about 2% :( That was 160 miles, and I started with 90% charge

So I have set a range of 160 miles ... if my journey will be longer than that I, now, charge to 100% "just in case". It means I can press on if I want to, or take a detour, or encounter dreadful weather.

A Better Route Planner is surprisingly accurate, so if you plan some longish journeys with that, you should get a good idea of what actual mileage is likely to be (cruising on motorway).

You won't have any problem in traffic ... slowing down for Roadworks / Traffic does wonders for Range :) and bumper-to-bumper in town is not a significant problem either - unlike ICE no energy used for sitting still, and any slowing down, on REGEN, gets you 70% or so back again, plus you are unlikely to be trying to do 200 miles on those days ... :) . When travelling very slowly then heating/cooling the cabin becomes a higher proportion of the total, but I've never known it become significant and generally I just heat/cool the car according to my comfort, not my range.

Travelling Salesman in Winter is dire. Each time you stop (for an hour or more) the battery gets cold, as does the cabin, and there is an "energy penalty" setting off again. My February Average is 20% worse than summer, but long trips in February are not as bad - my average for the month includes plenty of short-ish journeys, whereas on a long trip I normally pre-condition the car (on shore-power) before I start, and once moving the negative impact of short journeys doesn't apply of course.
 
As comprehensive as ever.. thanks for those responses.. I probably need as much cash for my car as possible, so it'll have to be private sale then by the looks of things..
Nothing off putting about the battery there, just what you'd expect really.. I look forward to seeing how the 3 pans out
 
Wall charger is 22MPH, and probably 90% efficient. I agree with @DJP31, I prefer the tethered cable too, wear-and-tear on the Tesla supplied cable will lead to an expensive replacement.
Just as an FYI, I have mitigated wear and tear on the charger by supporting it with a guitar hanger hook. It supports the weight of the charger and holds it steady on the wall. The plug end I hang over a hose hanger which stops it scratching on the wall. There is literally no wear and tear other than plugging it in and out of the vehicle.

IMG_20190311_182614.jpg

Before my S arrived I was calling round and being quoted over £1000 for the tethered wall charger plus installation. My electrician charged me £200 all in.

This video explains most of the pros of going for this solution and is what ultimately convinced me to go down this route.

 
I have mitigated wear and tear on the charger by supporting it with a guitar hanger hook

Your socket looks much better than mine, will recommend that in future. Mine looks like this and everything moves about when I wiggle the plug out.

gw66004.jpg

[Commando Socket] is a good idea for anyone on a budget, and cheaper for occasional use at additional sites e.g. Parent's house
 
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Your socket looks much better than mine, will recommend that in future. Mine looks like this and everything moves about when I wiggle the plug out.

gw66004.jpg

Good idea for anyone on a budget, and cheaper for occasional use at additional sites e.g. Parent's house

I specified an angled socket to minimise the drag from the weight of the cable, also I think the electrician massively overspecced the screws he used (#12, 2" or similar) as it is absolutely rock solid on the wall.

And I didn't view this as a budget solution, I'm just extremely tight :). My gran used to say I was penny wise and pound foolish. I guess buying a £75k car and then saving a few quid on a charger proves her right!
 
Your socket looks much better than mine, will recommend that in future. Mine looks like this and everything moves about when I wiggle the plug out.

However, yours is compliant with wiring regulations (being interlocked), while that in the photo from @unbelievable apparently is not (being not interlocked - hence prohibited for EV charging installations, and not shuttered, as commando sockets never are, so prohibited for domestic use).
 
Thanks @arg, useful to know. Happy to have interlock & shuttered, but I think downward facing and therefore there is a need to brace against the wall, or some other strengthening solution, because my front-mounted on a flimsy plastic box means tugging the plug out puts huge strain on the case - or so it seems to me. I did a quick google and couldn't find anything obvious - having both interlock and shutter, and also "robust", but I expect they exist.
 
I just leave the commando adapter in the wall socket and remove the cable by squeezing the two sprung lugs on the UMC. I've never had need of the 32A adapter away from home (but have used 13A plug many times). This puts much less mechanical strain on the socket - if I do need to pull out the adapter I work it loose gradually to avoid damaging the wall socket. Also I loop the UMC cable over the top of the socket (it's a box with its own trip switch so big enough to hang the cable on) which reduces strain on the socket and cable.

Despite my 32A Commando socket being interlocked (so the adapter can't be removed from the socket when switched on), I assume the design of the sprung UMC lugs means that it can still easily be detached when live. I think I can already hear @arg tutting!
 
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I know nothing about connectivity.. do I have to pay for it? (Currently I'm an Android user too, if that's relevant)
How about UK charging at home.. should I upgrade on the charger?

About the connectivity... The car will connect with Tesla at all times, either with WiFi (you enter your SSID in a menu in the car) or with cellular data, using a SIM in the car - this works in the UK and throughout the EU. As I understand it, cellular connectivity is free for four years - Tesla talked of charging people something like £100 a year but I don't believe this has ever been implemented. The car connectivity allows Tesla to upload data from your car e.g. the car's location, about Autopilot behaviour in different situations, they also send updates to the car firmware and navigation map updates. You can use the Tesla mobile app (free for both Android and Apple) to connect with your car, check its location, lock/unlock, turn on climate control, etc.

As regards charging, you can probably get by for a few months using the Universal Mobile Connector (supplied with the car), plugged into a 13A socket. You could then research and decide which charging solution is best for you. If you use a Commando socket and a UMC, it may be best to get a second UMC (ebay), one to keep in the car and one to remain at home (to avoid the hassle and wear of unplugging/plugging everything, whenever you come and go). You can't get an OLEV grant with the Tesla wall charger - but you can with several other brands of Type 2 chargers. Any charger or Commando socket installation will need a proper electrician, who will provide the legally required wiring certification. A charger or Commando socket will need 32A, so they should not be tapped onto an existing ring main.
 
You can use the Tesla mobile app

... just to add ...

also 3rd party APPs (for phones etc.) available, and APPs such as TeslaFi which will log all such data indefinitely.

and:
just summarising:

using the Universal Mobile Connector (supplied with the car), plugged into a 13A
A charger or Commando socket will need 32A,

13AMP is about 5-6 MPH
32AMP dedicated wall charger = approx 22 MPH (probably 10% more for M3 as more efficient than MS/MX)
 
Having a commando socket with UMC set up, along with a spare UMC to save on wear and tear sounds appealing.. it's definitely the option I'm currently thinking will suit me best..
Will be having a word with a sparky friend of the family in the next few weeks..
 
Tesla's ... car mats,

I've know of people fit aftermarket, personally I haven't bothered. There are some nice ones available ... I expect someone will be along in a minute with a link but if not I'll go hunt for one. See link below

Is there anything else I might need to fork out on?

Wall charger solution of some sort @ Home

Second one at Parents / Girlfriend / Work / some other frequent hangout ? 13AMP socket might be sufficient (e.g. at weekend pad), but personally I'd want a waterproof outdoor socket rather than trail-lead-through-open-window. Plugging into a 13AMP socket intended for continuous use is better than "any old 13 AMP socket" but if in doubt you can dial down the AMPs (on dashboard) and either way suggest you feel the plug after an hour to see if it is getting hot.

Extension lead. I have a rugged, thick, heavy duty 13 AMP extension lead that I can use when i visit friend instead of their frayed lawn mower cable - which is in fit state to catch fire!

A type-2 cable if it doesn't come with the car (it might not for 2nd hand, Tesla ships them now, but there have been periods when they didn't)

CHAdeMO adaptor - I think that would now be an unnecessary purchase, but might influence if buying 2nd hand and it was included.
Instead I would budget for a CCS adaptor when they become available

Winter tyres? Assuming we get a winter ... I change the wheels on all our cars (i.e. including Kids' cars too) to Winter tyres, but I have a decent sized shed to store them all in ... although QuickFit or whatever have wheel-store services ...

Puddle lights ... depends how boy-racer you are. You might want to replace the foot-well bulbs (particularly the boot). Bjorn has a video on that (simple DIY job) AbstractOcean.com

Dashcam? Simon Holbon is the go-to chap

Gap insurance?

If this is a lavish purchase for you, several times more than you normally spend on a car, you might consider having the car wrapped to avoid stone chips. Supposedly the paint on aluminium panels is softer than steel-panels. Mine is wrapped, the car was side swiped on a roundabout, and after a wash and "fix" with hairdryer it was hard to notice that there was any damage. I never worry about snuggling up to a countryside hedge, nor stone chips or bird poo.

EDIT: I found some links and have added them above, and thought of some other things:

Air-pump and gunge for punctures (no spare wheel)

Allow wheel protector "Gators"

Route planning: A Better Route Planner (I've fallen out of love for EVTripPlanner)

Data logging TeslaFi - use referral code WannabeOwner to get one month trial instead of 2 weeks (and if you then subscribe I get $10 rebate, or something like that)

3rd party Phone APPs instead of Tesla One - e.g. Remote-S

London congestion charge exemption (have to register £10 p.a.) [Link]

Mats: AutoStyle - they have lots of designs, not on their website, including Tesla, so "just ask"
 
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