Towing Rpod 171 with Model Y - Need Guidance on Equipment and Installation

[ConadianTV]

Hello everyone,

I'm planning to tow an Rpod 171 with my Model Y this time. However, the dealer mentioned that I need to purchase an equalizer hitch and asked if brake control is installed in my vehicle. As a first-time buyer, I have no idea what an equalizer hitch is and whether brake control is already installed in my car. Just to note, my Model Y already has the Tesla genuine tow hitch installed. Since the travel trailer's store where I can purchase the Rpod 171 is over 600km away, I plan to visit and bring the trailer back with me while I'm there. I would appreciate it if you could share any helpful information with me.
Thank you in advance

 

[TesLEEZ]

That's how mine is wired and I still get the 09

Then it's likely your trailer's wiring. How old is your trailer?? Did you check it for bad grounds or corroded connectors?

Also, what type of connectors did you use to wire it? I soldered and heat shrinked my Prodigy ID. If you use butt splices or wire taps, it's possible your connection isn't very good.

Also, do you have electric brakes or electric over hydraulic brakes?

The Tekonsha unit sends pulses to check the trailer before it allows for brake control.

 

[evenme]

Then it's likely your trailer's wiring. How old is your trailer?? Did you check it for bad grounds or corroded connectors?

Also, what type of connectors did you use to wire it? I soldered and heat shrinked my Prodigy ID. If you use butt splices or wire taps, it's possible your connection isn't very good.

Also, do you have electric brakes or electric over hydraulic brakes?

The Tekonsha unit sends pulses to check the trailer before it allows for brake control.

It's a 2019 clipper popup, electric brakes, nothing is rusted, looks good. Previous owner used the same brake controller but with a different car. I just switched connectors to push in I got from home depot.

 

[TesLEEZ]

It's a 2019 clipper popup, electric brakes, nothing is rusted, looks good. Previous owner used the same brake controller but with a different car. I just switched connectors to push in I got from home depot.

Those style of connectors aren't designed for automotive use, and they work best with single solid strand wire or super thick guage wire found in homes. Automotive wiring strands are thin and more flexible than household wires. Each strand is much much thinner. I personally would never use them on my car. The IDEAL In-Sure instructions specifically say "DO NOT USE WITH 16awg 26 strand wire" which is exactly what the Tesla pigtail uses: https://www.idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/WireTermination/WireConnectors/PushIn/InSure/InSure Models 32-33-34 Instructions.pdf

The Tekonsha wires are 12 awg(brake line and power) and the Tesla wires are 16 awg. The Tekonsha wires need to be universal so it needs to be able to handle 30 amps for large multi axle trailers. Tesla only provides up to 20 amps so 16awg wire is fine for that. The size mismatch means you likely need 2 different push-in connectors to work properly with both sizes. If you try to use the size that works for the 12awg, then the 16awg wire is too thin and won't make good contact. This is the exact reason why I soldered mine, was due to the wire size difference.

I realize not everyone can solder well, but get an iron like a PINECIL(also need a 65w USB-C supply) and practice on some scrap wire. Just make sure you heat up the copper and get the solder to flow through the strands, then put heat shrink over it. As long as you see the solder flowing through the strands, you should be fine. Watch a few youtube videos, there are several way to do it, but I like to butterfly twist my wires first.

This is the soldering Iron I use religiously now, I don't even both using my far more expensive desktop units anymore. Amazon.com I carry it around in this 3D printed case: Multipart Pinecil Case by Pjotrke

Do not use a cheap fixed wattage soldering iron, you'll do a terrible solder job, they are junk.

 

[evenme]

Those style of connectors aren't designed for automotive use, and they work best with single solid strand wire or super thick guage wire found in homes. Automotive wiring strands are thin and more flexible than household wires. Each strand is much much thinner. I personally would never use them on my car. The IDEAL In-Sure instructions specifically say "DO NOT USE WITH 16awg 26 strand wire" which is exactly what the Tesla pigtail uses: https://www.idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/WireTermination/WireConnectors/PushIn/InSure/InSure Models 32-33-34 Instructions.pdf

The Tekonsha wires are 12 awg(brake line and power) and the Tesla wires are 16 awg. The Tekonsha wires need to be universal so it needs to be able to handle 30 amps for large multi axle trailers. Tesla only provides up to 20 amps so 16awg wire is fine for that. The size mismatch means you likely need 2 different push-in connectors to work properly with both sizes. If you try to use the size that works for the 12awg, then the 16awg wire is too thin and won't make good contact. This is the exact reason why I soldered mine, was due to the wire size difference.

I realize not everyone can solder well, but get an iron like a PINECIL(also need a 65w USB-C supply) and practice on some scrap wire. Just make sure you heat up the copper and get the solder to flow through the strands, then put heat shrink over it. As long as you see the solder flowing through the strands, you should be fine. Watch a few youtube videos, there are several way to do it, but I like to butterfly twist my wires first.

This is the soldering Iron I use religiously now, I don't even both using my far more expensive desktop units anymore. Amazon.com I carry it around in this 3D printed case: Multipart Pinecil Case by Pjotrke

Do not use a cheap fixed wattage soldering iron, you'll do a terrible solder job, they are junk.

I couldn't find other connectors in my area today and now that I replaced with the push in connectors it's working as expected! I'll replace them as soon as possible.