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Trailer hitch on 2021 refresh?
- Thread starter mufoxe
- Start date
I’m trying to figure out if you just need a VIN from a friendly Model X owner or if they need to put in the order themselves.
I should have an update soon, I was told they ordered the parts and did not ask me for a vin. They did initially push back so I'll try to get some details if they arrive.
Lucky, my guy said no and ghosted me when I tried to follow up for clarification. Moving on and getting an eco hitch.
I’ve had great experiences with this service center but the virtual service guy who covers the region was being a stick in the mud. Service really is such a hit and miss with Tesla.
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Just need to find a good option for a wiring harness. I have a few bikes that would likely obscure the taillights if I put a hitch on. On my other cars with hitches, I used a set of lights that I put aft of the bikes for better visibility.
I have good news, I was able to get the parts from my local service center. I did tell a white lie about buying the parts as a gift for a family member who has a model X. I did have to call in and give my credit card number over the phone as they could not link it to my account since I did not have a model X.
I will take photos of the install as well in the next week or two when I get it back from the tint/PPF shop.
I will take photos of the install as well in the next week or two when I get it back from the tint/PPF shop.
I did see this https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-Bargman-Company-119251-Modulite/dp/B01CKQJCBY
That "reads" wires without tapping. Claims it works on Model S Refresh (on Torklift Central site). It needs power though. A lot of folks ran power all the way to the battery, which is nuts. Some smartly tapped the lift gate power (30A). There are many Videos using this for Model Y and 3. I don't care for it.
I also poked more in Model X Service manual and found this. This is where Model X Hitch plugs in, I think.
This might exist some where in the Refresh S. Like under the Air Dam or possibly in the floor of the trunk.
I might tackle install this weekend.
The one I got from Tesla has the Model S Weight limit Sticker on it.
Please update this thread if you find it, I will attempt to look when I get time to do the install next weekend perhaps.I did see this https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-Bargman-Company-119251-Modulite/dp/B01CKQJCBY
That "reads" wires without tapping. Claims it works on Model S Refresh (on Torklift Central site). It needs power though. A lot of folks ran power all the way to the battery, which is nuts. Some smartly tapped the lift gate power (30A). There are many Videos using this for Model Y and 3. I don't care for it.
I also poked more in Model X Service manual and found this. This is where Model X Hitch plugs in, I think.
This might exist some where in the Refresh S. Like under the Air Dam or possibly in the floor of the trunk.
I might tackle install this weekend.
cmarshack
Member
I will do the same, since I plan to install mine over the weekend as well.
Few tips. I did it myself fine.
I put the car on High and Jack mode.
You only have to remove 3-4 nuts in the middle of the bottom cover and leave it connected to bumper.
That bottom cover looked like a lot of work to get off, so I left it.
You don't need to remove that nut in the Wheel well.
Foil was not covering hole by a good inch, I pulled it off completely and repositioned.
Getting foil off was easy.
Never had to disconnect wires on bumper.
I did disconnect a light on the right side when I pulled carpet/liner back.
I never removed the trunk gasket.
I dropped both my socket and nut in that hole behind foil. Was not to bad getting either back out.
I reused original nuts, don't need to buy.
I didn't try that hard looking at electrical but there wasn't much advantage of leaving bumper off, so I put it back together.
I'll tackle electrical (maybe) another day.
New hitch went on like a leather glove. No reaming and didn't have to bend that tab.
Sticker for MS 3500 lbs is in clear view through the hatch.
I left tires on.
You only need to pop 2-3 rivets. Not sure the one furthest in is needed. All you're doing is folding the liner back to get that torx bolt out.
After taking part of the trunk apart, DO NOT put too much weight back there. It's not the strongest. You'll see.
And I don't mean it's weak while it's apart, I mean ever.
Car overall seems built great and insulated great.
Already made a dump run.
You can see a little green spec on the left. Wires can come through there if you want to wire the hitch.
I did not have to bend this tab that the red connector is mounted on.
Had to take that piece out that is sitting in the shelf in upper left corner. Once I did that I had enough room to pull liner back and to get nut off.
It pops right out.
This is where torx screw goes through
Don't lose this, I found one on the floor and I dismissed it and then realized it belonged here later. This is the nut behind the foil.
Only two parts left over !! Really I have no idea where they came from. Might not even be from this car. The bolt is not like the bolts on the bottom cover (same socket size though, but the fender washer is much larger and I think thread much smaller). If you do see these in your travels let me know where they go
DAMN, reviewing my post for typo's look at the 2nd photo closely.
This Video was helpful, but ignore most of the bottom cover stuff.
I didn't pull the trunk gasket off, since it may be glued as video showed.
Adding the Invoice again so everything is in this one post.
I put the car on High and Jack mode.
You only have to remove 3-4 nuts in the middle of the bottom cover and leave it connected to bumper.
That bottom cover looked like a lot of work to get off, so I left it.
You don't need to remove that nut in the Wheel well.
Foil was not covering hole by a good inch, I pulled it off completely and repositioned.
Getting foil off was easy.
Never had to disconnect wires on bumper.
I did disconnect a light on the right side when I pulled carpet/liner back.
I never removed the trunk gasket.
I dropped both my socket and nut in that hole behind foil. Was not to bad getting either back out.
I reused original nuts, don't need to buy.
I didn't try that hard looking at electrical but there wasn't much advantage of leaving bumper off, so I put it back together.
I'll tackle electrical (maybe) another day.
New hitch went on like a leather glove. No reaming and didn't have to bend that tab.
Sticker for MS 3500 lbs is in clear view through the hatch.
I left tires on.
You only need to pop 2-3 rivets. Not sure the one furthest in is needed. All you're doing is folding the liner back to get that torx bolt out.
After taking part of the trunk apart, DO NOT put too much weight back there. It's not the strongest. You'll see.
And I don't mean it's weak while it's apart, I mean ever.
Car overall seems built great and insulated great.
Already made a dump run.
You can see a little green spec on the left. Wires can come through there if you want to wire the hitch.
I did not have to bend this tab that the red connector is mounted on.
Had to take that piece out that is sitting in the shelf in upper left corner. Once I did that I had enough room to pull liner back and to get nut off.
It pops right out.
This is where torx screw goes through
Don't lose this, I found one on the floor and I dismissed it and then realized it belonged here later. This is the nut behind the foil.
Only two parts left over !! Really I have no idea where they came from. Might not even be from this car. The bolt is not like the bolts on the bottom cover (same socket size though, but the fender washer is much larger and I think thread much smaller). If you do see these in your travels let me know where they go
DAMN, reviewing my post for typo's look at the 2nd photo closely.
This Video was helpful, but ignore most of the bottom cover stuff.
I didn't pull the trunk gasket off, since it may be glued as video showed.
Adding the Invoice again so everything is in this one post.
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Found an interesting gadget as a stop gap to wiring the trailer.
I tested in the car and it does work.
Only problem is, when cruising, all modes blink. I might cover the blinking lights.
I wish there was a mode for constant on, then it would be perfect.
I might look for other options.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094YQFR6Q?psc=1
UPDATE: I just ordered this one. Has blinkers and Constant On mode and less than half of above.
https://www.amazon.com/WSDCAM-Signals-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Bicycle/dp/B098NBJFL5/
I tested in the car and it does work.
Only problem is, when cruising, all modes blink. I might cover the blinking lights.
I wish there was a mode for constant on, then it would be perfect.
I might look for other options.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094YQFR6Q?psc=1
UPDATE: I just ordered this one. Has blinkers and Constant On mode and less than half of above.
https://www.amazon.com/WSDCAM-Signals-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Bicycle/dp/B098NBJFL5/
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