Unable to use 12V Tesla Tire Repair compressor with USB connected TapTes Dual Qi wireless charger

[Briar_Reed]

Unable to use 12V Tesla Tire Repair compressor with USB connected TapTes Dual Qi wireless phone charger.

I recently attempted to “top off” tire inflation using the air compressor from the Tesla Tire Repair Kit, which was connected to the 12V outlet in the center console. After about 90 seconds it shut off. After doing a bit of troubleshooting, determined that the 12V outlet didn’t have power. Called my service center asking how to reset power to the outlet, since a “reboot” didn’t work. They ended up sending my M3 a s/w update, which was a reinstall of the current version and this did the trick. I scheduled an appointment to determine the root cause.

I was told the center console had a power limit that was affected by my wireless phone charger, and the car was unable to provide 12V power to a Tesla tire compressor while having the wireless charger used with the portable compressor. They disconnected the charger via the USB port, and demonstrated that the 12V works with the compressor, on both my M3 and another at the shop. And I incurred a $97.50 service charge, since it was a result of using a 3rd party wireless charger.

Question - has anyone else experienced this type of problem, does it sound right? Know of any local user method to reset the 12V outlet?

Issues - Once the 12V outlet powers off, there is no user reset, thus making a portable compressor useless, thus negating the ability to repair and/or inflate tires.

I have submitted this issue to Tesla Cust Support, will update if and when they answer.

 

[Matezz]

If the wireless charger was charging single phone in a fast mode, it would use around 12W or about 1 AMP. What is the AMP rating of the plug and also of the compressor? 1 AMP should not make that much difference.

 

[xilex]

The fuse on the 12V plug should reset on its own after 1-2 hours if you leave it alone. Or I've heard to disconnect 12V battery for a few seconds.

 

[Briar_Reed]

If the wireless charger was charging single phone in a fast mode, it would use around 12W or about 1 AMP. What is the AMP rating of the plug and also of the compressor? 1 AMP should not make that much difference.

I’m not sure of the current ratings. But this happened without any phone charging, only with the charging pad connected to the USB port.

 

[Briar_Reed]

The fuse on the 12V plug should reset on its own after 1-2 hours if you leave it alone. Or I've heard to disconnect 12V battery for a few seconds.

I didn’t disconnect the model 312V battery,

The fuse on the 12V plug should reset on its own after 1-2 hours if you leave it alone. Or I've heard to disconnect 12V battery for a few seconds.

The 12V didn’t reset after 36 hours, but did after reinstalling the s/w. Didn’t attempt disconnecting the 12V battery.

 

[RhysL]

Im surprised they charged you, I don't see how the charger being "3rd party" matters. You plugged a USB device into the USB port in the car, Every USB device you plug into those ports would be 3rd party. If I plug an iPhone or Samsung phone in directly, They are still 3rd party devices right?

 

[BioSehnsucht]

Did the front USB ports (for the Qi charging mat) stop working when the 12V outlet did?

 

[Briar_Reed]

Did the front USB ports (for the Qi charging mat) stop working when the 12V outlet did?

They kept working just fine. So not really sure how the 12V circuits are divided and protected.

 

[BioSehnsucht]

They kept working just fine. So not really sure how the 12V circuits are divided and protected.

They are protected with "smart fuses" or something to that effect. Basically they're not fused at all, but pass through high (ish) current solid state relays, and the car monitors the current usage on each circuit. If it goes over a defined threshold, the relay is switched off, "blowing the fuse". Later it will reset itself ... eventually? (I don't think there is any specific documented time delay or way of manually resetting other than possibly disconnecting the 12V battery and reconnecting it to reboot *everything*)

If your mat (and therefor your USB ports - at least I'm assuming the mat is plugged into them) continued to work fine, then clearly the circuit that tripped could not be the same circuit as the USB ports, and current usage on the USB ports would have no effect on the 12V outlet. In which case, they gave you a bogus reason for the issue, and it could trip again if trying to use something like the tire inflator (unless they fixed the actual problem and didn't tell you, or a software update since then fixed it, etc).

While it might still turn out that whatever the resolution is would still end up with you being charged to fix it, based on the description of events you've given us I would say that the SC's explanation is nonsense and unless they find some *actual* reason you're at fault, that they shouldn't charge you for the service.

Really, we should have a user accessible way to reset the fuses ourselves anyways ... they need to add an option to do this somewhere in the maintenance section of the UI, at least for the user-accessible circuits (USB, 12V outlet, hitch circuit if you've got a hitch, etc)

 

[mswlogo]

To OP I don’t know what the Tesla Compressor is rated at. But they vary a lot based on tire pressure and start up. If it is on the edge, start the compressor first then connect air hose. That will have a much “softer” startup current.

The Qi Charger thing sounds bogus.

Did you re-test the compressor under load for the same amount of time with similar tire pressure?

 

[350z]

I’m glad you posted this incident as I had a similar issue. I plugged in an aftermarket air compressor that I had for many years and worked just fine. No other devices plugged in. Decided to use the 12v plug located under the armrest, and within 10 seconds it went dead. The 12v current shut off. I guess it exceeded the amperage. Now looking to purchase a wireless inflator to keep in the trunk. We all need a reliable solution should an emergency arise. Suggestions are welcomed.

 

[SSedan]

Air compressors are near the limits of 12volt outlet's capacity.

Try using your microwave and a mixer on the same circuit same time.

Also don't believe wireless chargers generally pull 2amps because they are inefficient at delivering power to the phone.

 

[Matezz]

Air compressors are near the limits of 12volt outlet's capacity.

I agree, and as my nearest service center is 100miles away, got me this together with tire repair tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTGM2LD

When it got cold over here, got a message about low tire pressure all around. So I set the tool to 43PSI and had gone up from +- 34PSI in just a few minutes on all 4 tires.

 

[to4garret]

After reading this I am going to modify my portable air compressor to clip directly onto the 12v battery. Last thing I would like to do is be stranded somewhere waiting for a smart fuse to reset.

 

[SSedan]

You can buy a little adapter that is essentially a "lighter socket" with short pigtails. That way you aren't locked into battery direct.
I will say batter direct might combat voltage sag and may work a little faster.

 

[350z]

For those interested, benchmark review on cordless air compressors.

 

[Briar_Reed]

You may have a point, but not sure that applies, since the Tesla Compressor was running for 60-90 seconds before loosing power, which indicates initial current surge may not have been the issue.

 

[Briar_Reed]

To OP I don’t know what the Tesla Compressor is rated at. But they vary a lot based on tire pressure and start up. If it is on the edge, start the compressor first then connect air hose. That will have a much “softer” startup current.

The Qi Charger thing sounds bogus.

Did you re-test the compressor under load for the same amount of time with similar tire pressure?

You may have a point, but not sure that applies, since the Tesla Compressor was running for 60-90 seconds before loosing power, which indicates initial current surge may not have been the issue.

 

[Briar_Reed]

While it might still turn out that whatever the resolution is would still end up with you being charged to fix it, based on the description of events you've given us I would say that the SC's explanation is nonsense and unless they find some *actual* reason you're at fault, that they shouldn't charge you for the service.

I agree that it was a non-sensical response, but am fully aware that Tesla CS is energetic, wants to help, but slowly maturing, with minimal factory resources assisting. I even asked if they had a Tesla wireless charging mat to simulate the situation, but they didn't.
When I get the courage, am thinking of removing the wireless charging mat and replacing with the OEM cables, then while charging my phone use the Tesla compressor to observe if this has the same results.

At some point, they, like other institutions need to realize that not everything can be addressed over the web, and develop some low level AI to filter real issues from nuisance issues.
How many times have people spent valuable time to search the web for solutions, then relent to calling Only to be informed that most problems can be found at their web site, then navigating numeric menus, and finding out the wait time approaches their phones battery life, then finding out that it is a person reading from a script and a need to escalate, and now the caller has to pick up the kids.....so can I call you back....etc.......
Apologies for being verbose, but I do think companies that tackle this CS issue will win in the end.

 

[N54TT]

My TPMS went off a couple weeks ago just as I was about to merge on the highway. Pressures were dropping real fast so immediately pulled over on the side of the highway. Found a piece of metal shrapnel in the shoulder of my tire and it was was flat within a minute. Pulled out the metal shrapnel and threw a plug in. I used the compressor from my bmw tire mobility kit and it ran fine for what seemed at least over 2 minutes to inflate the flat tire to 44 psi. It was plugged into the 12v center console via a 2way splitter...my valentine radar was connected on one and compressor on the other. Tesla wireless charger was plugged into the front usb’s with one of the usb’s on a splitter for my dash cam drive. It would have sucked if it had blown the fuse-less circuit.