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Vampire Drain/Loss Tracking

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Li-Ion there is noted as losing 5% in first 24 hours, then 1-2% (4-5%) per month with/without a protection circuit:

"Li-ion self-discharges about 5 percent in the first 24 hours and then loses 1–2 percent per month; the protection circuit adds another 3 percent per month."

From page 8 of Model 3 EPA test document:

"The self‐discharge rate of the High Voltage battery is likely to be less than 0.5% per month."

https://iaspub.epa.gov/otaqpub/display_file.jsp?docid=46585&flag=1

So, I don't think this is the likely cause of the noted issues (especially since other EVs do not have significant drain like the Tesla). And the standard Model 3 drain is ~30% per month.

we shouldn't extrapolate loss for a week or month of storage based on measurements taken in the first 24 hours after a charge, since that seems to be much higher (75x higher with 5% in 1 day vs 2% in 30 days!).

Agreed. It's important to only pay attention to long term intervals (for Model 3 the average is usually very close to 3-4 miles per day).

I’m losing roughly 2% per day on my P3D+ which is sitting outside the Tesla SC right now waiting for repairs.

Monitoring like this is pretty common for new owners. Especially when it is in the shop, I would expect pretty high drain, since it's entirely possible they'll leave a door open or whatever, or just wake your car up a few times...as they move the car around the lot or whatever they happen to do. But I usually see a little more than 1% per day.
 
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Ok new data set.

Pretty pumped!

Got my new SR last week. Went to Boundary Waters for 10 days and just got back.

Last went in car at 5pm on 5/17. Car had 181 miles of range.

Just checked it, 2pm 5/27, 167 miles of range.

So that is about 10 full days, only 14 miles of range loss! 14/240/10= .00583 or 0.58% range or 1.4 miles per day lost. Not bad!

Here is what I did. This is my first experiment so nothing else to compare to and no idea how much of this made a difference at all yet.

1. Unplug phone charging cables.
2. 'turn car off' after opening door to get out but before closing it.
3. did not lock car
4. car sat in unheated/uncooled garage probably ranging from temps of 40-80.
5. never checked app/disabled mobile access
6. turned off wifi before exiting car
7. disable cabin overheat
8. HVAC system off
9. nobody around car with bluetooth connection
10. alarm off
11. all data sharing off
12. zero third party apps ever installed
13. windows open

Possibly turned some other things off I forgot about. Remind me?

It's a lot to do in order to decrease the drain, but could be worth it in certain situations. I think next I'm going to try everything the same but lock the car with the alarm on and windows up and see if it makes a difference. Have another 10 day trip coming up in a couple weeks so I'll have very similar conditions. Not sure if I can lock the car though without it turning back on, aka wifi etc. coming back on after exiting?
 
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I have noticed that the car always stays online and doesnt "sleep" when there is an update due, but the car is not downloading it. Before i used to get updates over LTE now only wifi. I didnt know that something changed with that regards.
Dont have wifi in the garage.

I tried to connect to WiFi , after a call to the SC, and voilá , the car now sleeps.

So it seems it stays online until and the update is being downloaded and installed, that will consume 2-3% per day.
 
I use Stats for Tesla and just noticed I lost 131 miles to vampire drain in April.

Seems about right.
Just be aware there are some limitations - if your car is inaccessible (poor cell signal) sometimes the data can be lost. So Stats can undercount. Also I don’t know whether it has any way to deal with temperature-induced capacity changes (which you may get back so may not be true losses) or whether it counts negative drain events (when rated miles increase, which happens very occasionally, usually because of temperature but perhaps for other more complicated reasons).
 
Well this is the second time that the car had been online for many days draining a lot per week and after the update it magically went back to sleep. I dont often use the car, so i can 2% drain per week, this is because most of the time the car sleeps amd wakes up very little.

As i said, before updates came over LTE so didnt really have those draining time.
Now i know i will need to look for a wifi, if my car is mostly online and doesnt spend the day sleeping.

I have a model S. Always connected : deactivated.
 
Seems about right.
Just be aware there are some limitations - if your car is inaccessible (poor cell signal) sometimes the data can be lost. So Stats can undercount. Also I don’t know whether it has any way to deal with temperature-induced capacity changes (which you may get back so may not be true losses) or whether it counts negative drain events (when rated miles increase, which happens very occasionally, usually because of temperature but perhaps for other more complicated reasons).

I'm not sure why April took a huge hit. The car was offline for10 days while I was on a cruise in Apri. Looks like I lose about 40 miles per month as normal. Feb was high too for some reason.

mmexport1559062843181.jpg
 
I'm not sure why April took a huge hit. The car was offline for10 days while I was on a cruise in Apri. Looks like I lose about 40 miles per month as normal. Feb was high too for some reason.

View attachment 412901

If the car was offline, Stats can lose some of the data. For February, if you started using Sentry mode, that counts as vampire drain. Also if you happen to leave a door open overnight or whatever that can really add up too. To be honest, I find 40 miles per month to be fairly improbable unless you are taking special measures to avoid vampire drain. I suspect missing data.
 
I'm getting a drain of about a kwh per 4 hours, on a model 3 AWD in Sentry mode. I don't think the recent update from 12.1 to 16.3 has changed the rate of drain. According to TeslaFi, I'm never entering Sleep mode, but always in Idle. I'm not surprised that this might be the effect of Sentry mode, though it would be nice to get the monitoring with fewer motherboards awake!

I believe there was a comment that the car also will not go to Sleep if cabin overheat protection is enabled.
 
I believe there was a comment that the car also will not go to Sleep if cabin overheat protection is enabled.

That's definitely not true in general. Car sleeps quite reliably even with cabin overheat protection enabled. In fact, cabin overheat protection seems to have a negligible effect unless it actually has to do its job. (That being said, in the event you are really trying to minimize vampire drain (for temporary storage or whatever), you probably want to turn it off.)
 
Brand new Raven S. Left in an attached garage at temps ranging from 45-55F from Dec 26 thru Jan 6 (~10 days) and the car lost almost 100mi of rated range. Ouch! My older model S didn't drain nearly this much. No app checking or anything like that as I was out of town doing nothing ... what gives?
 
Brand new Raven S. Left in an attached garage at temps ranging from 45-55F from Dec 26 thru Jan 6 (~10 days) and the car lost almost 100mi of rated range. Ouch! My older model S didn't drain nearly this much. No app checking or anything like that as I was out of town doing nothing ... what gives?
2018/10 Model 3 LR AWD
I was traveling for one week and didn't plug in purpose, here in San Francisco in a garage, day night temperature 55-45F.
Was charged at 90%. Lost 3% (should be 10 miles)
Turned off: Sentry, Alarm, and Summon (See under Autopilot menu)
Never used the Tesla phone App.
 
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Update to my original post #226 above follows:

I still have the original AGM battery and have of course received MANY firmware updates since Feb 10th 2019.

When the car is awake, SMT now shows a DC-to-DC output level of 13.4V as apposed to almost 15V measured at the posts prior. NOTE, I did not have SMT in Feb 2019. The voltage at the posts now shows 13.37V using my DMM while the car is awake. Looks like Tesla might have lowered the charging voltage? I have read some discussions that charging voltages approaching 15V might not be good long term for AGM batteries? 13.4V might be better?

The voltage at the posts right after the car enters sleep state (no output from the DC-to-DC converter) is now 13.02V as opposed to approx 13.62V prior. This lower voltage is probably because the charge level appears to have been reduced and that the battery is now 20 months older?

I removed the cable from the negative 12V battery terminal post, within minutes of the car going to sleep, and the no load voltage measured at the battery posts stabilized at 13.12V .

Maybe it is time to try my NOCO 7200 smart charger again to see if can supply the 12V power required while the car is sleeping thus eliminating the need of the car to wake up to top off the 12V battery.
 
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