I bought a used 2014 model S P85+ with 24,000 miles from a Maserati dealer in 2017. I now have 43,000 and Tesla has replace rotors and pads 3 times and burnished the rotors once. All under warranty. Ever time within a month issue started again. Now has happen once again for a 5 time. I brought it in for them examine but told them to inspect don’t fix it, want a new car. They finally said that the factory rims had been powder coated on the inside and outside. The paint on the lug nut area can be causing improper torch. And the paint on the back rim pad causing the issue too. I find these responses highly unlikely to cause the rotors to warp. What are your guys thoughts out there.
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Warped rotors
- Thread starter Wiznobliz
- Start date
dark cloud
Active Member
To back up the claims about brake judder as opposed to warpage I have had a simple pad swap alone with a rotor cleaning with garnet sandpaper resolve sever shaking on another application. Garnet paper is sharp but not hard so it doesn't really cut into the iron of the rotor but can clean off pad deposits and such.
I have a different problem on my 2014 P85, started a noise after the car set for a few days in the rain. Inspection revealed inner rotor surfaces are rusted and pitted. Chris at EVtuning said this is not uncommon and advised annual lubing of the pad hardware, I figure on doing it at a tire rotation. He was wonderfully quick to reply to questions, though I will say do not bother springing for expedited shipping, will offer feedback on parts after they are installed
I bought rotors, pads, hardware and lines from him and if all goes to plan will work on that project today along with painting the calipers. Brake pedal is rather soft on my car, has been the whole year I have owned it, but it also sat on a dealer lot for awhile before I bought it. I kind of wonder if half my soft pedal is just pad hardware not floating right the entire time I have owned it
I have a different problem on my 2014 P85, started a noise after the car set for a few days in the rain. Inspection revealed inner rotor surfaces are rusted and pitted. Chris at EVtuning said this is not uncommon and advised annual lubing of the pad hardware, I figure on doing it at a tire rotation. He was wonderfully quick to reply to questions, though I will say do not bother springing for expedited shipping, will offer feedback on parts after they are installed
I bought rotors, pads, hardware and lines from him and if all goes to plan will work on that project today along with painting the calipers. Brake pedal is rather soft on my car, has been the whole year I have owned it, but it also sat on a dealer lot for awhile before I bought it. I kind of wonder if half my soft pedal is just pad hardware not floating right the entire time I have owned it
Hello, I have a 2014 85 experiencing a lot of issues w/warped rotors. Replaced the original rims with the slipstream purchased from Ebay. Shortly after replacing noticed vibration when braking. Replaced last summer in July and not long after had the same vibration come up again. Took them back and this time they told me the rims I purchased were painted and that's why the rotors warped. No explanation, but that the wheels are the issue. While at service, they recommended a local wheel repair shop to remove paint from the connection plate. They removed paint (as far as I can tell didn't see results), and Tesla replaced the rotors/brakes again. Now after a short time, the same vibration is back and I think the rotors are warped again. I just want my car to ride right and not have these issues come up. Anyone have any insight? Any other experience comments will be appreciated. Thanks! Do I need to get rid of the "upgraded" rims and replace them with factory equipment and new rotors/brakes? Regen is set to normal.
Rotor-hub surface must be clean metal to metal to avoid pulsing brakes, else you have warped rotors.
Uneven paint on rim-rotor surface means wobbling wheel which can feel similar to warped rotor or bent rim.
In the event you live waaay down a steep slope and thus heat up your rotors every time you drive home, then by golly, you *will* have warped rotors on a regular basis.
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Uneven paint on rim-rotor surface means wobbling wheel which can feel similar to warped rotor or bent rim.
In the event you live waaay down a steep slope and thus heat up your rotors every time you drive home, then by golly, you *will* have warped rotors on a regular basis.
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Don85D
Member
Look for corrosion on the rotors (inner and outer surfaces) where wet pads have been parked for some time. Ask a brake shop to measure rotor runout using a dial gauge to confirm that they are warped. Replace with high quality rotors that have been stress relieved during manufacturing. I like cross drill rotors for reduced tendency to warp. Finally move rear wheels and tires to the front for a test as tires may look OK and balance OK but there can be internal problems of belt alignment.
There are lots of reasons for pulsing brakes even suspension joints that are worn.
A pro shop will find the problem instead of replacing rotors and pads for a short term fix. That's been my experience.
There are lots of reasons for pulsing brakes even suspension joints that are worn.
A pro shop will find the problem instead of replacing rotors and pads for a short term fix. That's been my experience.
Thank you very much for the info! This is great advice. I'm going to take it to a pro and have them diagnose whats going on. The wheels need to be rotated anyway so perfect timing. Which cross drilled rotors do you use?
Thanks for the response, much appreciated. I will have a pro inspect the mounting plate for uneven paint and if the rotors are in fact warped again. I'll also ask them to check for anything else that may cause the pulsing.
Drilled are not an upgrade, drilled reduce weight which if anything increases heat since there is less mass to soak it up, they are also prone to cracking.
Yes I know Porsche uses them but for the weight of the car the rotors are huge, and they publish a crack length to trigger replacement.
If you want a modified rotor slots are a much more sound decision. They can keep the pad surface cleaner don't remove so much weight and are not crack prone.
They will just more.
Yes I know Porsche uses them but for the weight of the car the rotors are huge, and they publish a crack length to trigger replacement.
If you want a modified rotor slots are a much more sound decision. They can keep the pad surface cleaner don't remove so much weight and are not crack prone.
They will just more.
Don85D
Member
Not sure that I buy this cracking of rotors comment. With cross drilled holes the area for heat dissipation is increased and this is what you want during a hard stop. Heat causes warping and hot pads sitting on a stationary rotor produce a hot spot. I also have a feeling that cross drilled rotors are stress relieved during manufacturing. My experience with cross drilled rotors has been good but then I don't take the car to the track. I even placed cross drilled rotors on a pickup truck that provided good service for 25 years. The negative for any rotor mod is that holes or slots can collect debris and rust as there is no abrasion from the pads.
Getting good quality rotors that are zinc coated is probably the best approach. Cheaper aftermarket rotors are at the minimum thickness assuming that they will be replaced after one set of pads. That alone can be a cause of hot spots and warpage.
Talk to a pro shop as they don't want customer complaints and will use their experience to fix the issue.
Getting good quality rotors that are zinc coated is probably the best approach. Cheaper aftermarket rotors are at the minimum thickness assuming that they will be replaced after one set of pads. That alone can be a cause of hot spots and warpage.
Talk to a pro shop as they don't want customer complaints and will use their experience to fix the issue.
I have Dec 2014 Model S 85 and I have had warping rotors now for over a year. 1st (set of 4) rotors were replaced after 91000 kms or 57000 miles. I admit I thought this was too soon.
Rims (19) were powder coated Aug 2018
Jan 2019 After 7 months or 16500 kms or 10300 mils my front rotors needed replacing.
April 3, 2019 After 11 months or 22000 kms or 13600 miles Rears were replaced again. After 3 months or 5400 kms or 3355 miles the Fronts were replaced again. I also suggested and paid for all new pads just to eliminate the pads as being the issue.
May 4, 2019 After 1 month or 1960 kms / 1217 miles all 4 were replaced again -
They gave me loaner wheels to see if the problem returns.
They have been good to warranty (deductible ext warr) but have repeatedly commented on paint, driving habbits and washing while hot as the cause of the on going warping issue.
I noticed that others have had similar issues, has anyone been able to determine the cause and find a solution?
Thanks
Sean
Rims (19) were powder coated Aug 2018
Jan 2019 After 7 months or 16500 kms or 10300 mils my front rotors needed replacing.
April 3, 2019 After 11 months or 22000 kms or 13600 miles Rears were replaced again. After 3 months or 5400 kms or 3355 miles the Fronts were replaced again. I also suggested and paid for all new pads just to eliminate the pads as being the issue.
May 4, 2019 After 1 month or 1960 kms / 1217 miles all 4 were replaced again -
They gave me loaner wheels to see if the problem returns.
They have been good to warranty (deductible ext warr) but have repeatedly commented on paint, driving habbits and washing while hot as the cause of the on going warping issue.
I noticed that others have had similar issues, has anyone been able to determine the cause and find a solution?
Thanks
Sean
I had my wheels powder coated and started experiencing the steering wheel judder shortly thereafter. Car had about 45k miles. Tesla said it was warped rotors which I was blown away by since we barely use brakes on these cars right? Car was still under warranty but they would not cover under warranty and declared a wear and tear item.
I recently had my wheels repainted and made sure they sanded down the back of the wheel as to not have the powder coating contact the hub. I’m in the process of scheduling an appointment to have to rotors replaced but I’m concerned about them getting warped again.
I read about someone else having this problem on factory wheels so I’m not sure if this is really a powder coat problem. I’m also interested if anyone else has been able to successfully resolve.
I recently had my wheels repainted and made sure they sanded down the back of the wheel as to not have the powder coating contact the hub. I’m in the process of scheduling an appointment to have to rotors replaced but I’m concerned about them getting warped again.
I read about someone else having this problem on factory wheels so I’m not sure if this is really a powder coat problem. I’m also interested if anyone else has been able to successfully resolve.
I'm no professional about brakes but I have recently changed my 2014 P85+ for a 2016 90D and the brake feeling is way better in the 2016 (my opinion obviously).
In my P85, I always had the impression that the pedal was too soft. I've had 2 experiences where I almost ran into another car because of icy rain while this has never happend with my 2016. And I'm a careful driver, never had an issue like this with none of my previous cars.
I asked the service center about this and was told to use regen less but like I said I simply don't have this issue with the 2016
In my P85, I always had the impression that the pedal was too soft. I've had 2 experiences where I almost ran into another car because of icy rain while this has never happend with my 2016. And I'm a careful driver, never had an issue like this with none of my previous cars.
I asked the service center about this and was told to use regen less but like I said I simply don't have this issue with the 2016
I am in the same boat. I started to get the steering wheel shake about 3 weeks back. Its a 2014 December Model S 85 with 27K miles on it. The Seattle service center confirmed this morning that the front rotors are warped and need replacement. They stated it as a wear and tear issue but I am shocked. I have babied the car and almost never apply brakes unless at a stop light when the speed is less than 10 mph. Not sure how the front rotors got warped. I asked the Seattle service center this question and they have no idea. They keep repeating the same statement about wear and tear.
I am pretty sure there is something else going on but neither us nor the SC folks know anything.
I am pretty sure there is something else going on but neither us nor the SC folks know anything.
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