What to do when Tesla refuses to make warranty repair

[AMPd]

The drive unit will make some noise, that's normal in my opinion.
My old s85 made a slight noise

Only option is to go get a different brand of vehicle

 

[TaoJones]

The drive unit will make some noise, that's normal in my opinion.
My old s85 made a slight noise

Only option is to go get a different brand of vehicle

Sure, but that noise ain't this noise. Google for TeslaTap's noise chart. It lists all kinds of normal noises as well as not so normal noises.

I had not so normal noise #14 starting at around 25,000 miles. They said it would get quite loud and sound like a jet engine from across the parking lot. By 34,000 miles, it certainly was. No big deal - that's when my annual service was and they elected to swap out the DU at the same time.

It's been 6 months and 20,000 more miles - I've got a squeak and some wind noise, but no abnormal DU noise. My hope is that the replacement DU holds up, of course, but if noise #14 comes back, no worries - will just get it dealt with at the next annual service.

I know annual services are optional, but to me they're worth the money if for no other reason than to have a baseline and some kind of inspection schedule over time.

 

[eye.surgeon]

Machines make noise. I'm glad to see Tesla isn't swapping out DUs any more at the drop of a hat. I have 15k on my original drive unit, it may or may not make some noise, I'm not sure because I don't obsess over it. Try that.

 

[supratachophobia]

I have a '14 S85. Drive unit #1 failed and left car inoperable. Tesla replaced with drive unit that makes humming sound above 38 mph. Been to SC 4 times. One tech hears it. another claims he hears nothing. Diagnosis was I need new tires. $1400 later sound is still there. Went back again today. They recorded the sound and "sent it to engineering to see if it was a operating within design". I find it impossible to believe that they will come back and say anything but that it's fine.

Their drive unit is notoriously defective. They have given me a defective replacement after my first one failed, and they try to act like nothing is wrong, like I'm crazy.
Does this company only respond when you sue/get the media involved like the recent settlement with the Model X owner? I would rather not go to that extreme. I'd rather they just give me a non-defective drive unit. I used to think these guys went over and beyond for customers. I now think it's like any other company watching their numbers for Wall Street.

Looking for any advice from the great members of TMC. Thank you.

This isn't the Denver service center is it? Can you take a recording of this sound you are hearing and under what kw load it happens?

 

[Superloud]

I have a 2013 P85 with ~34k miles. I really believe my DU noise is not within spec. I also feel like at 38mph I get a pulsating kind of noise - or at least that seems to be a speed when I feel like a certain resonance gets hit and it's more noticeable. But I also feel like it's there at higher speeds as well. In fact, I feel like I always hear something from my DU - not just under acceleration but also at steady speed. I also feel like when pushing or letting off the go pedal (which alternates between drive and regen) the tone of the sound changes. I feel like that points to the DU, because if this was a pure tire thing,wouldn't the noise simply be a function of speed, and not related to slight acceleration/deceleration?

Anyway, I just had a service visit, I brought all this up, the tech rode with me and said he thought it was normal. So they crossed that concern off as being due to cupped tires (not sure what that means).

The kicker...they gave me a 2013 P85+ loaner for a week, and holy crap it was way quieter! Or at least it felt that way. It felt like what I've read so many times. I'd hear some noise, but at steady speed I swore I couldn't hear the DU.

This is all pretty fresh. I'm currently far away on vacation. But I've actually been pondering starting a thread just like this. I haven't yet pushed my service center hard on this. Mostly cuz I was leaving on a trip. But I told them when I picked up my car that I probably wouldn't just drop it. I'm really interested to hear other people's experiences when it comes to convincing tesla to replace a DU. Is it like pulling teeth? Do you need to endure it till your DU sounds like a spaceship from the Jetsons (this is how the tech described a bad DU)?

Lastly, to the OP, I don't think you're just making it up. because, I don't think I'm just making it up either.

 

[MP3Mike]

They recorded the sound and "sent it to engineering to see if it was a operating within design".

I think this is the SOP now. Engineering listens to it decides if it is normal or not, and if not tells the SvC what needs to be done. (Sometimes it is a DU replacement, other times it is a mount issue.)

 

[cwave1]

@OP, I had the same experience with my 2013 DU. I took it in to multiple SC's over a period of a year and then contacted the service email at corporate headquarters and then waited another 6 months to get it done after they admitted it needed to be replaced.

Keep pushing and try all the communication channels you can think of.

 

[13P85plus]

Mine makes the hum sound at 70+, ranger said its a pass rear wheel bearing. They are replacing it and several other concerns I had. They said they will retest and see if that fixes it. Car will be taken to the Denver SC on a flatbed

 

[cwerdna]

Anyway, I just had a service visit, I brought all this up, the tech rode with me and said he thought it was normal. So they crossed that concern off as being due to cupped tires (not sure what that means).

Re: cupping, see below
HOW TO READ TIRE WEAR
10 Things Your Tires Are Trying To Tell You

Ages ago (over 20 years ago), we had an 86 Olds Cutlass Ciera the the local tire shop said had cupping tires they said was due to worn rear shocks. I recall feeling it and I think it actually wasn't confined to the edges but rather at random spots on both rear tires. Of course, the OEM parts were GM junk as I don't recall the car having even 40K miles by that point, possibly even under 36K.

The rear shocks were replaced and it rode WAY better over a particular dip while climbing a hill about 5 miles from home.

 

[Wildcat]

So, why not wait and see what the engineers say before coming here and starting a thread about Tesla not covering something?

You may find it "impossible" but my 2013 MS had some motor noise issues. Guess what? They recorded and sent to engineering. Guess what? The engineers said replace the drivetrain.

Even though it's your second drivetrain.. give them a chance to work through it..

Guess what? Tesla

So, why not wait and see what the engineers say before coming here and starting a thread about Tesla not covering something?

You may find it "impossible" but my 2013 MS had some motor noise issues. Guess what? They recorded and sent to engineering. Guess what? The engineers said replace the drivetrain.

Even though it's your second drivetrain.. give them a chance to work through it..

Guess what cgiGuy? Tesla called back and said they won't replace the drive unit because the drive unit noise is within spec.

 

[neroden]

I have a '14 S85. Drive unit #1 failed and left car inoperable. Tesla replaced with drive unit that makes humming sound above 38 mph. Been to SC 4 times. One tech hears it. another claims he hears nothing. Diagnosis was I need new tires. $1400 later sound is still there. Went back again today. They recorded the sound and "sent it to engineering to see if it was a operating within design". I find it impossible to believe that they will come back and say anything but that it's fine.

Their drive unit is notoriously defective. They have given me a defective replacement after my first one failed, and they try to act like nothing is wrong, like I'm crazy.
Does this company only respond when you sue/get the media involved like the recent settlement with the Model X owner? I would rather not go to that extreme. I'd rather they just give me a non-defective drive unit. I used to think these guys went over and beyond for customers. I now think it's like any other company watching their numbers for Wall Street.

Looking for any advice from the great members of TMC. Thank you.

You have a defective drive unit. "Humming" should not happen. (It's also possible that something's not attached properly. There are several different failures which cause noises.)

I'll say this... it'll get worse, and it won't break until it gets worse. Mine started going bad with the "milling sound"; I just kept driving until it was loud enough that they couldn't deny it. There were at least three different types of defects. This noise doesn't cause sudden failure, it dies slowly. I think the "clunk" was the only one which caused sudden failure.

What is the revision letter of your current drive unit? It should be in the paperwork from when the first drive unit failed. This is important! If it's a Q revision, you're the first to report trouble. If it's before Q, you have a known-defective design. You then have a pressure point to escalate with.

 

[msnow]

You have a defective drive unit. "Humming" should not happen. (It's also possible that something's not attached properly. There are several different failures which cause noises.)

I'll say this... it'll get worse, and it won't break until it gets worse. Mine started going bad with the "milling sound"; I just kept driving until it was loud enough that they couldn't deny it. There were at least three different types of defects. This noise doesn't cause sudden failure, it dies slowly. I think the "clunk" was the only one which caused sudden failure.

What is the revision letter of your current drive unit? It should be in the paperwork from when the first drive unit failed. This is important! If it's a Q revision, you're the first to report trouble. If it's before Q, you have a known-defective design. You then have a pressure point to escalate with.

In addition to what @neroden said, other options include:
Find another Service Center
Wait until it becomes inoperable (I know not a great option)
Go to arbitration under the Lemon Law

 

[Wildcat]

You have a defective drive unit. "Humming" should not happen. (It's also possible that something's not attached properly. There are several different failures which cause noises.)

I'll say this... it'll get worse, and it won't break until it gets worse. Mine started going bad with the "milling sound"; I just kept driving until it was loud enough that they couldn't deny it. There were at least three different types of defects. This noise doesn't cause sudden failure, it dies slowly. I think the "clunk" was the only one which caused sudden failure.

What is the revision letter of your current drive unit? It should be in the paperwork from when the first drive unit failed. This is important! If it's a Q revision, you're the first to report trouble. If it's before Q, you have a known-defective design. You then have a pressure point to escalate with.

Unfortunately, mine is a Q. Specifically, 1002633-00-Q.

 

[Lyon]

I had a high pitched noise over 40mph and the DU was replaced (this was my second DU). There was some talk about recording the sound and sending it back to the factory for analysis. In the end, the engineers with recording didn't pick up the really annoying high pitched sound but the tech did. I explained that the car was literally giving me headaches and I was looking for excuses to need to drive my GMC Yukon because of it. Be polite but insistent.

I would also point out that the guys in the shop may have hearing loss (they work around loud tools all day) and so you might that someone who doesn't work in the shop go along with you on the ride (if it's a high pitched noise)

Also, yes, electric motors make noises but sometimes the noise changes and it's a sign of a problem.

 

[TaoJones]

Unfortunately, mine is a Q. Specifically, 1002633-00-Q.

Condolences.

As a datapoint, my first DU replacement was done at about 37,000 miles. A Q-series as well, it appears to be newer - numbered in the 25,000s rather than yours at 2,633.

18,000 miles and 6 months later, the same noise has not yet returned. Although I don't know that I expect it to return quite yet. Hoping to get at least 20,000-25,000 miles out of the new unit since that's how long the original DU lasted before the noise started.

Hopefully if/when they replace yours with a newer Q-series (or maybe next there will be an R-series), it will last longer.

 

[cgiGuy]

Guess what? Tesla


Guess what cgiGuy? Tesla called back and said they won't replace the drive unit because the drive unit noise is within spec.

Cool, so this thread should have started today then.

 

[neroden]

Unfortunately, mine is a Q. Specifically, 1002633-00-Q.

OK. Now you know the psychology: Tesla really doesn't want to believe that there's anything wrong with the Q design. (And I certainly hope there isn't!)

It is of course possible that you have a one-off problem which only affects your drive unit and not the entire series.

Or, perhaps most likely, that it was installed sloppily and the humming is caused by a part rubbing up against another part. A lot of noises have been caused by that. If that's the case it should be fixed because there will be wear due to the parts rubbing each other, but it should be an easy fix *if* they can find it.

 

[Wildcat]

I am happy to report that Tesla finally did the right thing and replaced the drive unit. I had to appeal to the service manager who heard it on his drive along with me in the car. I am so happy I don't have to hear the drone sound any more.

 

[msnow]

I am happy to report that Tesla finally did the right thing and replaced the drive unit. I had to appeal to the service manager who heard it on his drive along with me in the car. I am so happy I don't have to hear the drone sound any more.

That's great and I'm glad you gave them a second and third chance to do the right thing.

 

[internalaudit]

Sounds like the service centers should be checking the drive train every annual visit. This issue seems to be the most talked about.

Is it really plaguing only models with no dual motors?