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Where to 110 V receptacles and 12 V to 110 V inverter in Model X

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I bought a Morning star sure sine 300 watt inverter. It produces a clean sine wave (hopefully).

What I like about it is it has a user setable low voltage turn off, audible alarms, and it uses no annoying cooling fans so it is completely silent. It's also built like a tank. But because it is heavy it should be securely mounted and not in any place where it could go flying in an accident.

I also don't want to drill any holes in my car so I'm hoping there might be a pass through unused grommet available ...and maybe I could just get some longer bolts and add it somewhere piggy back or ideally between two other components (don't like the leverage of a piggy back set up) so PERHAPS I could mount it behind the FRUNK liner and run a fused line into the car. I know ideally I should fuse it within 6" to 12" from the battery.

Has anyone mounted this very same inverter? It's actually 115 V .

I'll be using it to run:

Mac Mini as a music server and to run Traktor PRO 2 DJ SOFTWARE

APPLE TV

PS Audio Direct bitstream DAC senior or possibly a Aqua Acoustic Quality La Voce DAC but I would like to be able to play at least double rate or possibly quad rate DSD files and stream Tidal MQA files as well as Redbook 16bit 44.1kz. I don't find Slacker to be musically involving at all and often they have a lesser version of the song I want to hear.

MIT Z Duplex power conditioner

2 Modified Technics DZ-1200 MKII as CDJ.

Sorta like this mock up in my previous Model X.


I used to time the races for Aspen skiers and snowboarders and froze in a gasoline smelling race shack. I want my heated seats and the front windshield is perfect for looking uphill.

The car battery will hopefully have no problem running the sound system. I'm putting 2200 watts of McIntosh amplification in it. I think the 400 volt to 12 volt inverter is good for 2500 watts of 12 volt, I just can't run the heat and seat heaters while I'm DJing full blast but most of the time it should be ok.

Has anyone put in a larger better battery perhaps a Sears Platimum Die Hard? ( I think they are rebadged Odyessey batteries at a lower price with a better warranty). I would use Optima but I heard they are not as good as they used to be. I am nervous to tax the tiny 12 TV accessory battery. I feel it is probably very limited in its CCA.

I kinda wish I had a lithium ion 12 volt battery instead of a lead acid design.
 
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You won't be able to pull enough current to run a 300 watt inverter besides connecting directly to the 12v battery.

There is a 12v (20A) trailer brake hook up (page 80 in manual), but that will only be enough for a 200w (max) inverter. Which may give you around 1.7Amps @ 110vac. A 300w would pull around ~28A @ 12vdc.

On a side note, it's nice to see someone else using Traktor instead of Serato..