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Windshield wiper arm scraping metal under the hood

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Apparently wiper linkage pivot wear is a common issue on the MS. I noticed a clunking on mine and found the notch in the hood. I have a used motor & linkage (2019) en route but I made a temp mod to avoid more damage as we're in the rainy season here.
I cut a piece of corrugated poly drain tile hose (see pix) and positioned it over the wiper arm attachment nut and closed the hood on it. The curved piece holds pressure on the pivot shaft so the wiper arm won't contact the hood.
 

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I just had this same problem. The wiper arm was hitting the hood and carved out a nice notch in the metal rim on the underside of the hood. Tesla is fixing the wiper arm today under warranty. They said they will refer me to a body shop to have the hood fixed too under warranty.

Before I could get it fixed though, I taped a thin piece of plastic cut from a plastic container onto the edge of the hood to prevent more damage. It worked for about 2 weeks until the plastic wore through.
 
I replaced the wiper mechanism with a used part on my RH drive 2014 85S. I found it quite straightforward. The outer mounting can be made to sit lower by reversing the metal tube /washer. This moves the wiper arm away from the hood a fraction.
 
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Just done mine in the UK. Got the motor/linkage from a Tesla SC when I was over for another issue.
About 3hrs all in which included a bit of faff and checking stuff in guides and youtube.


The strut brace is the one on drivers side in the UK, there's an extra 10mm bolt which is no hassle and obvious. Two bits are tricky, removing the wipers on the spline, highly recommend a splitter as per manual.

The other is the central strut brace bolt. 13mm iirc and it's a fair reach, because just under the windscreen. A ratchet spanner was useful and a magnetic tool is handy for the last few turns of a few bits.

Oh and one vid didn't remove the windscreen rubber shroud bit, which makes seeing things a lot easier, worth cleaning it and the groove before putting back.
I also fitted all the bolts in the struct and wiper with a few turns, but then tightened them all after.
Worth a bit of grease on the wiper splines and checking movement before tightening down.

I *WAS* fairly shocked once removing the strut brace covers, you could see daylight and the top arms have a fair bit of rust because of the road wet and dirt. Going to have to rust paint and protect tomorrow, it's quick to pop the covers once you get the hang of the plastic pop fasteners (Small screwdriver the middle up, then use a leaver tool, didn't break one)
 
Just found this thread. I wonder if anyone that has replaced the wiper assembly has an issue with the wiper arm (and blade) sitting too high after replacement? On mine the wiper now only makes proper contact at top and bottom - almost like the arm spring is not pressing it hard enough (tried another arm) or the whole assembly is sitting too high (but there is no adjustment).

I posted here last night before I found this thread. 2016 (Post Refresh) Wiper Not Clearing Screen Properly

Notice a few other RHD UK'ers here (lots of rain!).
 
Just found this thread. I wonder if anyone that has replaced the wiper assembly has an issue with the wiper arm (and blade) sitting too high after replacement? On mine the wiper now only makes proper contact at top and bottom - almost like the arm spring is not pressing it hard enough (tried another arm) or the whole assembly is sitting too high (but there is no adjustment).

I posted here last night before I found this thread. 2016 (Post Refresh) Wiper Not Clearing Screen Properly

Notice a few other RHD UK'ers here (lots of rain!).
I had that issue, sitting too high. I used a block of wood and lump hammer to lower the flange and nut that the outer part of the wiper assembly bolts to. I also inverted the tube/washer in the rubber grommet. This allows the grommet to squash lower when bolted. My next step was going to be reaming out the wiper arm hole, but I didn't need to do that.