wwu123
Active Member
I do like the idea that it can provide 1/3 more power, the 240v output of my Zendure is only at 16 amps, just a smidge more power than then 30 amps at 120v RV plug output. I bought the adapter for my 32 amp mobile Tesla charger so I can drive to a dead battery and then just plug the car into the battery and hopefully not need to call AAA. Would be nice if I could charge at 24 amps instead.
The Zendure Home Panel is almost a YEAR late at this point. People paid for it this time last year and they keep shifting back the delivery date from the Kickstarter campaign. I am not sure how code will handle the idea of feeding your main panel from a battery w/o having a whole house switch to cut off the power to the street in case of a blackout. The advantage of the sub panel that lights up certain circuits only that can get power from the grid or from the batts seems like a much easier DIY solution and covers MOST of the needs for battery use.
Perhaps the advantage of feeding your main panel is you can wake up your solar during a blackout that can then feed the battery, although you would need a mechanism to STOP the solar once the battery was full as that energy has to go somewhere. Perhaps it would be like my RV where the power is converted into heat by the battery. I am still considering wiring up my solar sub panel as one of the circuits but really we NEVER have blackouts here, so I would be using the Superbase V to time-shift my solar, since I can charge my car easily with excess solar having another place to store excess should pay for itself over time.
I do like Anker, and if this was this time last year I'd be curious which one to get, but the decision was made for me by the time it took Anker to come to market. I love my two Superbase Vs, the fact that I can wheel them around, pick them up and put them in the car to go fill them up at the local EV charger or take to the cabin in case we have power issues over the weekend (we have LOTS of blackouts on PG&E). If I find I could use more batteries now that I have the two base units I can always get more, up to 46kWhs total, just wait for Black Friday and they have had similar pricing to Kickstarter. My whole system was only $5K and the add on batts are cheaper and lighter. I can even stack new batts on top of the base and wheel the whole thing around. Sadly the base doesn't have the cool top plug to pass power like the add on batts do when stacked, but at least it's not a crazy cord going out the side like the EcoFlow.
Would be curious to check them out, do you have that link?
Here's the link for the Anker kickstarter, it's got more current info than their main site:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/anker/anker-solix-f3800-minimum-effort-maximum-power
Be sure to check out the FAQ's for more technical details, although there are still a lot of unanswered questions.
On the blackout scenario, what they say is in the backup mode (#1) in my previous post, the main panel is disconnected at the Anker Home Panel, and only the subpanel feeding off there will be powered. My suspicion is it uses its two main panel CT's to detect if the grid is up - if not, then it automatic transfer switches from "AC Coupling" to generation mode after cutting off at the Home Panel. So it's still a partial home backup, not a whole-home backup - so you do have to move those backed-up circuits to the subpanel. (For my specific scenario, If I don't need the automated home backup, I can avoid the subpanel re-wiring and just plug in via the PG&E BPTM.)
I was thinking about the home solar scenario during backup mode. They specifically say your home solar can't work, because it's breaker is in the main panel - which is disconnected in backup mode. But what if I say moved the solar breaker to the backup panel? The Anker would generate a pure sine wave, that would probably look like the grid to my Enphase micro-inverters, and allow them to activate. But then could the Anker absorb excess solar generation into the battery? Here's where my electronics understanding fails - I presume it's using a bi-directional AC inverter, is the direction of the inverter set manually, or does it automatically switch direction based on power sources and loads ?. When the Anker generates the pure sine wave, does it have to be in export mode, or is the Anker inverter capable of importing energy INTO the batteries? Curious ...
You were complaining previously about the Zendure inverter losses in UPS mode, have you any more insights on that when used as UPS, home backup, or load-shifting? My concern is the Anker's larger inverter would suffer 2X the standby losses as the Zendure or EcoFlow, esp if on 24x7. It would be nice if say for load-shifting, Anker only turned on the AC inverter for 2 hours to fully recharge, and then for 5-9 hrs during designated peak periods, and otherwise left the AC inverter off for 2/3 of the day.
Also not sure if the AC inverter can be turned off and only run the DC outputs- while typically a standard feature, this Anker seems more designed for larger home scenarios. I currently use a small 200WH power station as my router/modem UPS, running strictly in 12V DC mode to avoid 24x7 inverter losses. It would be nice to be able to use the Anker's 12V DC output (up to 120W) only for efficient DC load shifting, I could expand my 12V use cases by including a number of my aquarium loads.