Zendure Superbase-V is a DIY PowerWall starting at $2499 and as little as 41¢/Wh

[israndy]

I think the most disappointing thing about this is that the UPS mode functions not by a transfer switch that cuts in when the power goes out, but instead by charging the battery and then draining the battery, when the power to the UPS fails it just continues to drain the battery w/o charging it. This means that your inverter losses are 24/7, whenever you have something plugged into the AC (which once this is connected to the Home Panel will be all the time) you are losing a big chunk of power every 24 hours. Now that's percentage wise, the batts only hold 4.6kWh so losing 20% of that isn't much, I have lots of free solar and in the winter can use TOU cheap overnight power shifted to the evening peak.

DC power can be left on for a long time w/o noticeable loss, it's actually the trick to keeping the bluetooth awake, if you turn on AC to prevent the unit from sleeping you burn thru power even w/o connecting anything, but if you leave the DC activated but unconnected the unit won't sleep but remains active. And if you let it sleep it can go weeks and weeks w/o losing a single percentage.

 

[cali8484]

From a tax credit perspective, I think it is entirely uniquely justifiable to defend that design point of the Superbase V is for home use, and not other portable uses, particularly with the 240V input/output - even if it's not permanently wired into a home panel.

Good luck trying to convince the IRS and AHJ. Permanent installation means hardwired in a code compliant manner. None of the portable power stations would qualify as they are not NRTL listed as required by the NEC.

It seems odd that the unit does not have a standard 240V/120V generator outlet. Makes me wonder if it provides true 240/120V split-phase power.

 

[israndy]

Sounds like you know something about it, too bad you speak in such cryptic language as I bet I could have learned something from you about this.

 

[cwied]

Sounds like you know something about it, too bad you speak in such cryptic language as I bet I could have learned something from you about this.

Here is ChatGPT's explanation of the post:

1. IRS and AHJ: The IRS refers to the Internal Revenue Service, the U.S. government agency responsible for collecting taxes and administering the Internal Revenue Code. AHJ stands for "Authority Having Jurisdiction," which in the context of electrical work typically refers to local government entities that enforce codes and standards related to electrical systems.
2. Permanent installation...hardwired in a code compliant manner: This means that a device or system is installed as a fixed part of a building's electrical system, rather than being temporarily connected. "Hardwired" refers to the fact that the device's connections are made directly to the building's wiring, rather than through a plug and socket. Code compliance refers to following the rules set forth in the National Electrical Code (NEC) or similar local codes. This typically includes things like properly sizing wires, using the correct types of connections, and placing equipment in the right locations.
3. None of the portable power stations would qualify as they are not NRTL listed as required by the NEC: Portable power stations are devices that store electricity and can be moved around, as opposed to being permanently installed in a building. NRTL stands for "Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories," a designation given by the U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) to laboratories that are approved to test and certify products to ensure they meet public safety standards. The NEC requires that electrical equipment be listed (i.e., tested and certified) by an NRTL. If portable power stations are not NRTL listed, they are not considered safe or appropriate for use according to the NEC.
4. The unit does not have a standard 240V/120V generator outlet...true 240/120V split-phase power: Standard electrical service in the U.S. is 240/120V split-phase. This means that the electrical system provides two "hot" wires each carrying 120V, and the voltage between these two wires is 240V. This allows appliances to be powered either with 120V (by using one hot wire and the neutral wire) or 240V (by using both hot wires). If the unit doesn't have a standard 240V/120V generator outlet, it may not be capable of providing this split-phase power.

 

[wwu123]

Good luck trying to convince the IRS and AHJ. Permanent installation means hardwired in a code compliant manner. None of the portable power stations would qualify as they are not NRTL listed as required by the NEC.

It seems odd that the unit does not have a standard 240V/120V generator outlet. Makes me wonder if it provides true 240/120V split-phase power.

I guess "installation" in the text of the IRA means "code-compliant hardwired" then, if that's the precedent set by other clean-energy federal incentives that use the same language. I guess in that case this wouldn't meet that, though I'm really neither a tax expert nor tradesman on code-compliant stuff.

This one has a 6-20 outlet, it's not a twist-lock outlet, but a plug-in one. I don't know why generator outlet matters though, this is not a tax credit for generators. But if permanent installation requires a twist-lock connection, then it doesn't have one. I read one or two web threads about 30-year old generators with 6-20 outlet though. I don't know much about split-phase power, the Hobotech video tested that it had a 240V, 60Hz pure sine-wave output on the 240V outlet, but he didn't show which prongs he tested that on. I guess code-compliance requires a neutral, and maybe each leg 120V from neutral - maybe that's what their Smart Home Panel is going to be for?

 

[israndy]

No no no, the NEMA 14-50 and 6-20 on the front of the Zendure Home Panel are for plugging in chargers to charge your cars. The batteries are attached to the Home Panel by plugs on the bottom that use the Zen Connect cable, a generator twist connection is useless for a battery bank, that both provides power like a generator AND charges from the panel. It seems that the way it will be wired is two 50 amp circuits from your main panel will provide power to the Home Panel, that will feed the plugs on the face, or will charge the batteries, or will provide power to up to ten 15 amp circuits.

Likely they will use load shedding like many RVs use to provide enough power for the essential loads. It's a smart panel and you can control it from the Zendure app, but it's still not shipping so it's hard to know exactly how they will be connected. It seems like the batteries will not back feed the grid, they will charge from the grid and provide pass thru power to the 10 circuits but I don't think they will have the functionality of powering your solar inverter and charge the batteries w/o some crazy wiring scheme.

 

[wwu123]

I was referring to the 240V 6-20 outlet on the Superbase V itself, being a plug-in type, and not a twist-lock output (like the 240V 14-30 output on most gas generators). It was only in response to cali8484's comment bringing up standard generator outlet, which I'm still not sure how that is relevant at all.

But yeah, good point that's not how one would connect the Superbase V to the Home Panel, since that outlet is output only...

 

[israndy]

Got it. There are generator cords you can get for the Zendure if you already have a genset inlet on your place, you would just plug the AC input in separately, the Zen Connect is just for their Home Panel. They even sell a regular transfer switch on their site with that cord.

 

[BGbreeder]

As far as I can tell in the documentation for the Zenaure Super V there seems to be a certain dissonance between the current rating of plugs/receptacles and what the company is suggesting appropriate loads in several places. If an outlet can only supply 16A, then it should be a NEMA 15 outlet, and the same is true in reverse; if a plug-in cable has a 15A plug on it, then it should be ok to plug it into a 15A receptacle, rather than advising the owner to make sure that their outlet and wiring are good for more than 15A. If it needs 20A, then by all means put a 20A plug on it.

Having an electrical equipment manufacturer not understand the plug and outlet ratings of NEMA doesn't leave me with the warm and fuzzies about what is under the hood.

NEMA connector - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Just my $0.02...

 

[wwu123]

As far as I can tell in the documentation for the Zenaure Super V there seems to be a certain dissonance between the current rating of plugs/receptacles and what the company is suggesting appropriate loads in several places. If an outlet can only supply 16A, then it should be a NEMA 15 outlet, and the same is true in reverse; if a plug-in cable has a 15A plug on it, then it should be ok to plug it into a 15A receptacle, rather than advising the owner to make sure that their outlet and wiring are good for more than 15A. If it needs 20A, then by all means put a 20A plug on it.

Having an electrical equipment manufacturer not understand the plug and outlet ratings of NEMA doesn't leave me with the warm and fuzzies about what is under the hood.

NEMA connector - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Just my $0.02...

I think you're suggesting they should have used NEMA 6-15 for the 240V outlet, and NEMA 5-15 for the 120V outlet.

But isn't the way they are doing it the same as how gas generators do it? The 240V generators that have a 240V 14-30 outlet generally can't supply 7200W, the bigger ones that have 14-50 can't supply 12000W?

In the grid-connected home scenario, the grid can supply an effectively-unlimited amount of amps; to protect the home wiring, a circuit-breaker is sized to protect the home wiring between the grid and the NEMA outlet from an overloaded amount of amps. So if a faulty appliance is plugged in, it protects the wiring behind the outlet, by tripping the breaker (and does it secondarily protect the faulty appliance from exceeding it's own power cord and device from more amps than designed for?).

In the portable power supply scenario, presumably the wiring inside the device behind its outlets are capable of handling the max output. If they use a 6-20 on the 240V, something with a 6-20 plug that asks for full 20amps only gets 16, worst case it doesn't run (generator stalls or has overload protection). If they use a 6-15 on the 240V, something with a 6-15 plug that's faulty asks for more than 15A, gets supplied with 16A, more than it's cord or internals were designed for, isn't that more dangerous?

 

[BGbreeder]

I think you're suggesting they should have used NEMA 6-15 for the 240V outlet, and NEMA 5-15 for the 120V outlet.

But isn't the way they are doing it the same as how gas generators do it? The 240V generators that have a 240V 14-30 outlet generally can't supply 7200W, the bigger ones that have 14-50 can't supply 12000W?

In the grid-connected home scenario, the grid can supply an effectively-unlimited amount of amps; to protect the home wiring, a circuit-breaker is sized to protect the home wiring between the grid and the NEMA outlet from an overloaded amount of amps. So if a faulty appliance is plugged in, it protects the wiring behind the outlet, by tripping the breaker (and does it secondarily protect the faulty appliance from exceeding it's own power cord and device from more amps than designed for?).

In the portable power supply scenario, presumably the wiring inside the device behind its outlets are capable of handling the max output. If they use a 6-20 on the 240V, something with a 6-20 plug that asks for full 20amps only gets 16, worst case it doesn't run (generator stalls or has overload protection). If they use a 6-15 on the 240V, something with a 6-15 plug that's faulty asks for more than 15A, gets supplied with 16A, more than it's cord or internals were designed for, isn't that more dangerous?

I have certainly seen generators set up the way you describe, but that doesn't make the concept "good". To me the whole point of a receptacle/plug amperage framework is to keep the end user from having to track the capacities and loads of each. Under the NEMA framework, if the plug fits in the receptacle, you are good to go.

My disbelief was more on the "15A" 120V charging plug instructions, but yes it does extend to the outlets as well. Switching the "15A" plug to a true 20A plug is a less than ten cent fix, and would make the charging safer, and without the need to caution the user to check the capabilities and integrity of their wiring. The fact that the charger pulls 15A on a sustained basis is a safety envelope item. I'm more concerned about whether the outlets have circuit protection at the level of the label, e.g. 16A for the 20A 120 circuit.

I am not against what Zendure is trying to do. Done well, I think that the concept could have a respectable market, both for home backup/UPS use, but also as a drop in solar/battery/inverter control system for RVs, where moving from lead acid batteries and a generator to LiPO batteries has power/weight advantages as does having an integrated 12V/120/240/solar controller. RV generators aren't cheap, which would make the Zendure idea very very competitive on cost, though the engineering might need some adjustment to take the road and travel vibration, and to put in suitable restraint points.

The glitzy website has lots of photos of folks camping (glamping?) with them, but no videos of how one might get a Super V off a vehicle (say a van or RV) to setup the field of solar panels with the Super V, and based on user feedback on the web, I think alittle thought there might be helpful. Personally, I think that they could do themselves a favor with a little more data on the website, and a little less photoshopping and animations, but that's me.

All the best,

BG

 

[wwu123]

I have certainly seen generators set up the way you describe, but that doesn't make the concept "good". To me the whole point of a receptacle/plug amperage framework is to keep the end user from having to track the capacities and loads of each. Under the NEMA framework, if the plug fits in the receptacle, you are good to go.

My disbelief was more on the "15A" 120V charging plug instructions, but yes it does extend to the outlets as well. Switching the "15A" plug to a true 20A plug is a less than ten cent fix, and would make the charging safer, and without the need to caution the user to check the capabilities and integrity of their wiring. The fact that the charger pulls 15A on a sustained basis is a safety envelope item. I'm more concerned about whether the outlets have circuit protection at the level of the label, e.g. 16A for the 20A 120 circuit.

I am not against what Zendure is trying to do. Done well, I think that the concept could have a respectable market, both for home backup/UPS use, but also as a drop in solar/battery/inverter control system for RVs, where moving from lead acid batteries and a generator to LiPO batteries has power/weight advantages as does having an integrated 12V/120/240/solar controller. RV generators aren't cheap, which would make the Zendure idea very very competitive on cost, though the engineering might need some adjustment to take the road and travel vibration, and to put in suitable restraint points.

The glitzy website has lots of photos of folks camping (glamping?) with them, but no videos of how one might get a Super V off a vehicle (say a van or RV) to setup the field of solar panels with the Super V, and based on user feedback on the web, I think alittle thought there might be helpful. Personally, I think that they could do themselves a favor with a little more data on the website, and a little less photoshopping and animations, but that's me.

All the best,

BG

I certainly respect your expertise, and others around various forums here, esp about things related to electrical, code and wiring, so thanks for elaborating more on what might be caution flags as more products come to market in this area. This Zendure product is pretty new, not any in-depth reviews or user experiences yet - mostly a bunch of very cursory trade mags ones (e.g. Wired magazine). It is trying pushing the envelope on some features that are currently unique in the market, which it'll be interesting to see more offerings in the space.

Did you locate user documentation for the Superbase V? I couldn't find it, but curious to see if it gives more insight, specifications, etc. Including what overload or circuit protection features.

Just regarding the curious amp ratings, I wonder if it has to do with their AmpUp feature, which EcoFlow also has a similar feature called X-Boost. AmpUp is demonstrated in the Hobotech video. Both features claim to be able to power many devices that require more wattage than the batteries' max output - specifically lowering voltage and delivering more amps while retaining a clean sine wave. Neither necessarily says they're delivering more actual surge watts or for how long, but that many devices (sometimes up to 50% higher wattage rating) will be able to work. Have no idea what the NEMA and safety implications are of that, say delivering 1800W at 20A and 90V, but maybe informs their NEMA choices?

I didn't think the Superbase V would be oriented towards RV/offroad given its unique features and weight, vs smaller units from Zendure, Ecoflow, etc. But while Zendure doesn't market it that way like Ecoflow does with the Delta Pro, some of their Superbase V customer reviews do indicate some are indeed using it for RV use cases...

 

[BGbreeder]

I certainly respect your expertise, and others around various forums here, esp about things related to electrical, code and wiring, so thanks for elaborating more on what might be caution flags as more products come to market in this area. This Zendure product is pretty new, not any in-depth reviews or user experiences yet - mostly a bunch of very cursory trade mags ones (e.g. Wired magazine). It is trying pushing the envelope on some features that are currently unique in the market, which it'll be interesting to see more offerings in the space.

Did you locate user documentation for the Superbase V? I couldn't find it, but curious to see if it gives more insight, specifications, etc. Including what overload or circuit protection features.

Just regarding the curious amp ratings, I wonder if it has to do with their AmpUp feature, which EcoFlow also has a similar feature called X-Boost. AmpUp is demonstrated in the Hobotech video. Both features claim to be able to power many devices that require more wattage than the batteries' max output - specifically lowering voltage and delivering more amps while retaining a clean sine wave. Neither necessarily says they're delivering more actual surge watts or for how long, but that many devices (sometimes up to 50% higher wattage rating) will be able to work. Have no idea what the NEMA and safety implications are of that, say delivering 1800W at 20A and 90V, but maybe informs their NEMA choices?

I didn't think the Superbase V would be oriented towards RV/offroad given its unique features and weight, vs smaller units from Zendure, Ecoflow, etc. But while Zendure doesn't market it that way like Ecoflow does with the Delta Pro, some of their Superbase V customer reviews do indicate some are indeed using it for RV use cases...

There is a Polish site that seems to have the User Manual;

https://portablepower.pl/wp-content/uploads/Zendure_SuperBase_V6400_User_manual.pdf

The lack of a readily available manual even in the support section on zendure.com goes to my earlier comment about more data/less glitz on their website. I agree with you about the general lack of detailed reviews.

I would not want to speak for all devices, but generally same current, lower voltage, same frequency is less than ideal for many things. Basically, if the power budget for a gizmo is cut, it isn't necessarily clear how it will react, but it is somewhere on the spectrum of "rollover and die", to not start, to work less well, to not an issue most of the time. Within the NEMA framework, a 20A outlet is supposed to be able to supply 20A to the device that is plugged into it, but IIRC, the NEC has guidance what is considered reasonable, e.g. a max of 12A sustained from a 15A outlet. Things like EVs, and large batteries tend to be "edge cases" because they can and will draw large currents for long periods of time, unlike most other devices, putting more heat into wires, receptacles, and connectors.

I personally have a mental dividing line between "off roading" power/weight needs and RV power/weight needs. (Not saying it is real/true, just my way of thinking.) For some DIY off roader who is watching every ounce and every milliamp trying to get a Unimog RV from Istanbul to Cape Town, I don't think Zendure is a workable solution. For a turnkey RVer, with three AC units, a washing machine and a dryer, I can see the Zendure advantages.

Their RV / outdoor living photos are...unusual. I have trouble imagining why anyone would want to haul their SuperBase V6400 out of their vehicle instead of just running a power cord, and there is an interesting mismatch between the gear shown and the size of the rather atypical RV in the background. (Hint, the RV is German)

All the best,

BG

 

[israndy]

Google is your friend:

Download User Manuals of Zendure Power Stations and Accessories - Zendure

Zendure's mission is to democratize the latest EnergyTech to deliver clean and affordable electricity via devices and services suitable for on-grid and off-grid living.

zendure.com

Well, technically Google is a pariah and should be avoided at all costs, but DuckDuckGo can be your friend

 

[buckets0fun]

Their RV / outdoor living photos are...unusual. I have trouble imagining why anyone would want to haul their SuperBase V6400 out of their vehicle instead of just running a power cord, and there is an interesting mismatch between the gear shown and the size of the rather atypical RV in the background. (Hint, the RV is German)

The v4600 is ungodly heavy. Major pain to transport within a 6pass X; Very easy inside of a trailer with a ramp door.

We purchased for its /novel/ J1772 charging ability, figured if someone had to run into town for supplies an open window with a EVSE ran through wouldn't be difficult for an hour or so. The adapter has not been shipped to attempt that fun. Haven't attempted to charge via PV. Support lacks when you have issues or when they break the firmware on the unit, but overall the app is decent for us.

It has satisfied the 2day 30a RV need while winter 'dry camping', won't be toting the generator any longer.

 

[wwu123]

Google is your friend:

Download User Manuals of Zendure Power Stations and Accessories - Zendure

Zendure's mission is to democratize the latest EnergyTech to deliver clean and affordable electricity via devices and services suitable for on-grid and off-grid living.

zendure.com

Well, technically Google is a pariah and should be avoided at all costs, but DuckDuckGo can be your friend

Thanks! On their website Support tab, I must've missed seeing the Download Center link and instead went to the Support Center, which only had the usual knowledgebase of FAQ's that no one ever asked...

 

[wwu123]

Their RV / outdoor living photos are...unusual. I have trouble imagining why anyone would want to haul their SuperBase V6400 out of their vehicle instead of just running a power cord, and there is an interesting mismatch between the gear shown and the size of the rather atypical RV in the background. (Hint, the RV is German)

I clearly missed that whole section on RV and outdoor living, but I think the answer is obvious .... it's just the right height to set your beers upon!

 

[israndy]

It's one of the reasons that I got it, I have two RVs that I can drag the SBVs between, and if I get Satellite batts for the SBV I can use those directly in my RV connected to the 12v system and the solar panels for charging... It's a really clever system, except for the extra 10 lbs the Semi-Solid State batts weigh over the LFPs. At 121lbs my batts are all I'll ever be interested in lifting again this lifetime.

 

[wwu123]

(I decided to post here instead of starting a new thread, just because some of the relevant pros/cons discussion would relevant to compare and contrast across brands. But mods can decide to move if off-topic...)

So I'm seriously considering joining the Anker Solix F3800 Kickstarter campaign. The Solix F3800 is a new portable power station in the same class as the Zendure Superbase V and the EcoFlow Delta Pro. The Delta Pro might be considered more of the incumbent "brand-name" offering, but Anker is pretty well-known for years for smaller mobile-class powerbanks and charging solutions, of all these companies I would consider Anker the most likely to be around in 5-10 years, and they are standing behind that with a 5-year warranty on the F3800.

I missed the Early Bird 45% off rewards, but with the current 35% Kickstarter rewards, the price is pretty similar to Zendure's Kickstarter, as well as recent good deals on the EcoFlow. I would also consider the F3800 specs to be a hybrid of the other two, not necessarily in the best way - it's got 3.8kwh capacity similar to the EcoFlow (3.6kwh), but with the heavier 130-ish lb weight of the Zendure (4.6 kwh for the LFP model). Where it outclasses the other two is with the highest 6000W AC inverter output (or even 12000W with two units combined).

The Anker has dual 120V/240V output in a single unit like the Zendure, a huge advantage over the EcoFlow (which needs 2X plus an accessory. Since I had the PG&E BPTM installed, it means I can straight-up plug the Anker right into the meter for manual whole-house backup, just like a gas generator. In addition, all three have a smart Home Panel option for "hardwired" 240V installation, the Anker's is slightly cheaper, esp with the Kickstarter bundle.

But here is the big difference that is swinging it for me - AC Coupling, capable of supporting whole-house load-shifting. So the EcoFlow and Zendure panels are both essentially smart transfer switches, with slots that support 10-12 backed-up circuits. Anker offers a different Kickstarter bundle that's merely bundled with a manual transfer switch for "Home Backup". But the "Home Power Kit" includes both Anker's Home Panel AND a standard 12-circuit subpanel for backup. I've studied their FAQ's and animations carefully, in case of grid outage, the Home Panel does the smart switching of loads over to the subpanel for partial home backup, similar to the others (except the circuits are just in the separate box).

Now in the case of load-shifting, at first I though the Anker's AC Coupling was merely just switching backup loads over to battery power based on TOU or scheduled algorithms, which would be not much different than the other brands. But I've studied their animations carefully, this is a screenshot of evening loadshifting - they're showing the main panel being fed by both grid power AND the Anker (note that the little square box to the right of the Home Panel is the subpanel, is not in the path of the loads, like when they animate partial home backup.

So they are basically discharging the battery into the main panel loads. Now interestingly their FAQ states it is not capable of selling power back to the grid. What I think they mean is they are monitoring to ensure discharge rate does not ever export power back to the grid, maybe some regulatory reason? The Anker Home Panel comes with 3 CT's, they said 2 are for the main panel monitoring, 1 is for monitoring your main solar array. These are the three listed algorithms:

1. Backup Mode: A whole home backup energy system that switches the home power source from the grid to F3800 during blackouts.
2. Self-Consumption Mode: Working with an existing roof solar system, it can charge during the day and discharge at night.
3. Time-of-Use Mode: Powering the home during On-peak hours, and being charged during off-peak hours, to save electricity bills.

I believe only #1 uses the subpanel. #2, they will use the solar CT to set the AC charge rate to only charge up at the rate of solar generation, and then use the main panel CT's to discharge at night only to the limit of house loads, with grid providing the rest (and ensuring no net export out the meter). #3 is if you don't have solar (or don't use the solar CT), it will charge from the grid, and then discharge during peak (again only to the limit of house loads per the main CT's). Given my understanding then, I would probably use only #2 or #3 modes, I would probably not even install their subpanel initially, as I would manually plug the Anker right into the PG&E BPTM for backup scenarios (less automated, but more convenient to feed the whole house). Then when it runs low, I would plug the 240V propane generator into the BPTM to feed the house, and use a household outlet to recharge the Anker.

There are a few notable drawbacks, which may not be showstoppers for me:
-it can't simultaneously charge and discharge at 240V, can only function as EPS in 120V (I believe it can charge at 240V through the home panel, but can't be powering any 240V loads during that time)
-the direct DC solar inputs are limited to 60V, 25A - I plan to also experiment with off-grid solar using some full-sized panels, so precludes larger panels with >60 Voc, and other panels must be wired in parallel, not series.
-can charge from AC or solar DC input, but not both simultaneously (most EcoFlow's can do this). So if I have it hardwired with the Home Panel and use the above algorithms, which charge from AC (either grid or home solar), may not be able to use the DC solar inputs at all for off-grid experiments.
-while the 6000W inverter output would generally be an advantage, I'd consider the high inverter output more of a drawback for loadshifting smaller loads, potentiaily higher standby losses 24x7....
-I realized the narrow exterior wall holding my main panel doesn't have really room for additional boxes > 13" width. An adjacent 90 deg wall has the gas riser nearby, another adjacent 90 deg wall faces the street and is unsightly. Meanwhile can't mount above the main panel, too high for breaker panel, can't mount below (utility conduits coming up from below).

My goals are to basically get a 1/4 Powerwall equivalent for 1/4 the price for the next 10 years, to experiment with home backup, load-shifting, and off-grid solar. At that point I will be kicked off NEM1, will be ready for a new roof, new solar, new HVAC, and whatever whole-home ESS prevails (I believe V2H will mature by then, but who know). If I can get the Anker load-shifting working, I can offset about 1/3 to 2/3 the costs, and if the 30% fed tax credit applies, that'll offset another 1/3.

 

[israndy]

I do like the idea that it can provide 1/3 more power, the 240v output of my Zendure is only at 16 amps, just a smidge more power than then 30 amps at 120v RV plug output. I bought the adapter for my 32 amp mobile Tesla charger so I can drive to a dead battery and then just plug the car into the battery and hopefully not need to call AAA. Would be nice if I could charge at 24 amps instead.

The Zendure Home Panel is almost a YEAR late at this point. People paid for it this time last year and they keep shifting back the delivery date from the Kickstarter campaign. I am not sure how code will handle the idea of feeding your main panel from a battery w/o having a whole house switch to cut off the power to the street in case of a blackout. The advantage of the sub panel that lights up certain circuits only that can get power from the grid or from the batts seems like a much easier DIY solution and covers MOST of the needs for battery use.

Perhaps the advantage of feeding your main panel is you can wake up your solar during a blackout that can then feed the battery, although you would need a mechanism to STOP the solar once the battery was full as that energy has to go somewhere. Perhaps it would be like my RV where the power is converted into heat by the battery. I am still considering wiring up my solar sub panel as one of the circuits but really we NEVER have blackouts here, so I would be using the Superbase V to time-shift my solar, since I can charge my car easily with excess solar having another place to store excess should pay for itself over time.

I do like Anker, and if this was this time last year I'd be curious which one to get, but the decision was made for me by the time it took Anker to come to market. I love my two Superbase Vs, the fact that I can wheel them around, pick them up and put them in the car to go fill them up at the local EV charger or take to the cabin in case we have power issues over the weekend (we have LOTS of blackouts on PG&E). If I find I could use more batteries now that I have the two base units I can always get more, up to 46kWhs total, just wait for Black Friday and they have had similar pricing to Kickstarter. My whole system was only $5K and the add on batts are cheaper and lighter. I can even stack new batts on top of the base and wheel the whole thing around. Sadly the base doesn't have the cool top plug to pass power like the add on batts do when stacked, but at least it's not a crazy cord going out the side like the EcoFlow.

Would be curious to check them out, do you have that link?