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I seem to have solved this by playing around with it. I've always run my Model 3 at 24/32A just to keep heat down on the charger. However, the Clarity's system is much more primitive and doesn't allow you to set a max current, in fact you can't even see the current at all, so I assume it's...

For the last 5 years I've had a Clipper Creek EV charger that I used to charge my Model 3 without issue. Recently, I had a second 240V NEMA 14-50 plug installed in my garage. The installer ran a subpanel into the garage with a 100A breaker from the main, and then has each NEMA 14-50 on its own...

Ugh. I think turning off the sources that use streaming would work except that the car only lets you turn off so many sources and thus ONE streaming source is always left no matter what, and that's the one it always seem to want to default to.

That's a fair deal and I am almost ready for new tires. However, I'm all the way on the other side of the country so I'm guessing shipping wouldn't be worth it.

Just curious can you put these on a 2018 non-performance Model 3? I am not far from you...

Ya, I think it's because the audio source defaults to Tidal no matter what you used last. And if you aren't on Wifi or Premium Connectivity you can't use Tidal, so you get that message. I wish I could just turn off all sources but USB but it forces you to keep at least 4 sources active. Maybe...

Bump. Here’s what the message looks like. This is supposed to be the USB player. 🙄 At least that’s where I left it

So those of us that like to use USB audio know that the USB player is terrible and often doesn't restart when you get back into the car. But now I have a new message, the car is telling me that I don't have Premium Connectivity when I get into the car, and I have to then close that and go back...

Glad it's worked out well for you so far!

Splitter for an aftermarket sub I assume? Don't split at the connector, tap the wires further back and then you can have both the OEM sub and your aftermarket sub on at the same time. I used Posi-taps and they worked great.

Sadly this is an issue with USB that has existed for a long time. Look up threads on USB not resuming properly for more info.

No problem let me know if you change your mind.

FYI, it looks like this spoiler is currently being sold by RPM for $126. https://www.rpmtesla.com/products/model-3-carbon-fiber-performance-spoiler-abs-plastic-from-129?_pos=1&_sid=4d298d27d&_ss=r&variant=31807491506230 I'd be interested for $100 shipped, let me know.

300 miles? the center of those tires look a lot more used than that..

Bummer, I came on here hoping to find a solution to this. At least I know I'm not alone. 😒

I'm at 49,500 with a 2018 LR AWD. So far no squeaks so I'm crossing my fingers as I'm about to go out of warranty.

Sound is so subjective. I have a 2018 Model 3, so I have one WITH the rear shelf cut-out, and for me I still found the bass lacking and thus installed a 12in 500W JL Audio subwoofer. Now it hits properly and the rest of the audio was already awesome so I am very happy with it.

2018 Model 3 LR AWD w/ Acceleration Boost. 49,500 miles currently. I've put on the last 10,000 with no issues at all. Original owner had to replace the back windshield when it cracked on a very cold day and one charge port pin. Hoping I got a good one, So far so good!

That looks pretty slick to me. As long as there is no issue with heat dissipation (being right next to the ceiling) then you should be good to go.

I'm about 48.5K miles and have not experienced the control arm squeak yet but you can bet I'm aware and listening for it. No way I would let them do anything to my car that would possibly prolong but not eliminate the issue until AFTER the 50K warranty expires.

Yep. Everything is set to on (Refresh, Location, Notifications, etc).

Jeeze these seem way over-complicated. I had a set of illuminated door sills on my previous car (Lexus CT200h). They snapped right into place where the original door sills were and were powered by tapping into the foot well lights. That way they turn on and off in sequence with the rest of...

Yes that's correct you do have to have "show notifications" enabled. I haven't had an issue with texting since updating to iOS 15 but several of us are having issues with the phone not being able to "start" the car and the car asking for the keycard. 😒

Same here. Glad to see it's something with the phone and not the car, as I assume Apple will fix it quickly. Both times removing the phone and re-adding it to the locks menu has worked. Good tip about the airplane mode, that would be faster to fix it temporarily. I wonder if Apple changed...

I can report that I'm seeing this now. For me the timing seems to have aligned to when I updated my iPhone XR to iOS 15,0, however that could be coincidence. Both times removing the phone and then re-adding it from the locks menu has resolved the issue. We'll see if it comes back a 3rd time.

I saw some discussion about being able to fix this by re-lubricating with Lithium grease inside the joint. Thankfully mine hasn't started yet but if it does and I'm out of warranty, I will surely try that first. I mean, there is nothing to lose if the alternative is replacing them anyway.

Don't feel bad, that big rectangle SHOULD be the filter cover. The way it's actually designed is ridiculous.

Yes that's the way to go actually if you have a Tesla and a non-Tesla EV. Way easier to go J1227 to Tesla connector than vice versa.

I bought my 2018 LR AWD on Cars and Bids. They have been getting a lot of Teslas on there.

For me I test drove both. It was actually the styling of the Model 3 that sold me over the Y. I just thought the Y doesn't look as good being taller and more egg shaped. That's personal preference.

Go the other way around. Replace the Tesla wall connector with a J1227 wall connector, and then use the J1227 to Tesla connector that comes with the Tesla to charge the Tesla. Will be the same or less than trying to order that janky reverse connector and way more reliable.

That does seem like a long time but they are busy... What I don't get is they offered you a loaner car and you are turning it down? Wouldn't that solve your issue?

I was super excited when Tesla changed the Model 3 service intervals from every 2 years to a few inspections you can do yourself and the AC desicant every 6 years. That's much more like the "service free" promise that is part of the argument for EVs over ICE cars in the first place. 👍

Ya, that's a bummer but not a surprise. I don't look at it as a failure. The purpose of the PHEV was as a stepping stone to full BEV, and the reason Honda is stopping production is to focus on full BEVs, so they must think the business case is finally there for them. My mother has one, and...

Yes, as soon as my Model 3 goes out of warranty (which is soon) I'm going to become an expert at fixing things myself with used or aftermarket parts. At least as much as I can. Thankfully the shop manual is available online, so that should be a huge help!

I don't have that problem but I do have fake "you're gonna crash" warnings when someone is slowing down to turn in from of me. I know I'll have plenty of room and so I don't slow down at all and it definitely doesn't like that. You'd think it would be able to see that the car ahead is turning...

As a follow-up option, I just bought and installed some sun shades from Amazon. They were basically generic knock offs of the Tesla versions but half the cost (and in-stock). They fit perfect and cut my energy usage to keep Cabin Overheat Protection on all day in half!

Yes to that big thumb screw! BTW, the OEM screw is a T20. Not sure the thread on it though.

This. Since I don't have that and it's hot as hell right now, I got a set of roof shades on Amazon for $60. Huge difference, I used half the energy in Cabin Overheat Protection mode today at work as I did previously!

I've been experimenting with this. On a hot day (90 deg) I can lose 4-5% over the course of a 9 hour workday with the Cabin Mode Protection fully on. But it does keep the temp below 105. I then switched to On but with AC Off, and checked the temp. By noon, it was already 135 deg in the car...

I have mine set up to auto open when I get home but NOT to auto open when I leave. I open the door manually when I step into the garage and then push the homelink button manually as I am backing out of the driveway. Highly recommend this configuration for safety.

The Zero looks amazing! Cost?

I find this thread hilarious because this is by far the fastest car, even on the highway, that I've ever owned. It's amazing to be able to blow by people that are driving stupid.

Yes. Search my username and subwoofer, I put some pics up of my install.

This! Full acceleration from a rolling start is still amazing and really cuts down on tire wear.

IMO most of the "upgrades" in the later years haven't been positive overall. I'm glad that I got a used 2018 vs. a new 2021.

Dude, BBB? More like lawsuit. Seriously.

No way Short girls are so... convenient. ;):cool:

Thank God too (Indiana). Moving here from a state that required them was a relief. Same thing with their silly State inspection that really didn't do anything.

Yes. They are literally making a big selling point about something Tesla has had all along.