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I'm not sure sentry mode is better than camp mode with manual climate set to AC off at fan level 1. My old model S doesn't have sentry mode but I was glad to get camp mode working like this so I can run the fridge. It does not drain power much.

As per original OP #1 they asked, is "Watch app for Tesla" by Kim Hansen the one to get or not. Both of you have quoted "Watch for Tesla", and this seems to be referring to the same app but I can't be 100% sure. Can you please confirm?Sorry to be pedantic. But it's $20.

AP1 2016 model S here. I used to get my text messages on my iphone delivered in the dashboard. It would make a sound and give me a prompt allowing me to choose whether to read it out or not. After the recent update with the new UI (I actually like it, it gives me one button access to the...

@CarsonGallo How is this working out for you? Those MOLLE organizers seem… a bit much. But curious if it was a good solution for you. I have a model S so I’m looking for the mesh one that you linked that you originally said you wanted, but now I cannot find a place to buy it. A tacticool MOLLE...

This is neat! Unfortunately I'm on AP1 and don't get sentry mode, so not sure how much I could benefit from this knowledge myself, but under 200W is decidedly not too bad. I'm very curious what your 1KW load is! Based on my ScanMyTesla app observations I could agree with this but I don't know...

I'll play around with it some more. Definitely jumped to this conclusion without a lot of data gathering.

Nice, I haven't exactly seen those types of units, that is cool. Yeah I think a DC powered PC build would be neat. But for my personal use I would want a single high spec SFF PC that can take as input either 120VAC or 12VDC with reasonably practical hotplug interface and 400W or so of capacity...

My 2016 post facelift AP1 S has now been upgraded to 2021.24.4 and SMT is no longer working. Does anybody know what's going on?

Yes. At this point in time, there are not quite any widespread adoption in high end pc parts of 12v only motherboards but I think it will come around within the next 5 years for sure. I forgot to mention I also had the diagnostic port under the MCU hooked up to an OBDLink MX+ and was using the...

Driving back from NYC this weekend I noticed my dimming mirrors had stopped dimming. I don't know what the cause might be but it may be somehow related to the fiddling around I did with the rearview when I was originally trying to run the 12V ACC to dashcam hardware kit. I ended up giving up on...

As I understand it, (older?) model S (of which I have one) is ok to tap 12v (and draw from it at rates that are within sane reason). For 3 and Y this is not as feasible due to the car detecting the drain on the 12v battery and assuming at that point that the battery is degraded/defective. But...

I see. Pretty much all fuses are populated on mine! The SC replaced the blown cigarette port fuse for me for free. Maybe there are some spares stashed in here. I’m slightly worried that this passenger panel will become loose from all the repeated opening up and closing I’ve been doing lately…

Pretty sure the best solution to this one is a direct tap on the 12V battery, because any other solution to keep the 12V accessory powered on will power on the car computers which will draw 5x more than your fridge (when it runs…) If it’s only for the fridge then you’d only need wires that...

To clarify for posterity they are F202 and F207 listed here: Tesla Model S (2015-2017) Fuse Diagram • FuseCheck.com Both are blue 15A fuses so it indeed does not seem to matter which one to tap. The 3rd and 8th from the top on the left side tall column of them. I’ve got these posi-taps that i...

OMG I’m an idiot for not considering the cornucopia of connectivity options at passenger footwell, which is far easier (it’s along the way…) to run to the dashcam area than the center console! Thanks for that reminder 🤦‍♂️

Wonderful. The ability to pop out and put a larger cup is great, I wonder if it’ll be strong enough for that much liquid but I could easily reinforce the 3D model myself if necessary. PLA is what you used, I’m assuming?

I’ve set up a Viofo A129 Pro Duo dashcam in my 2016 post-facelift pre-rearseat-cupholder S75D (AP1) via the always-on 12V from the microphone area using the hardware kit. Side note on this dashcam install: Turns out the time consuming part by far was routing the cable to go to the rear camera, I...

Let us know how the service goes. I would avoid trying to use it in the meantime. Hopefully it still seals!!!

Haha, that looks jank as hell but just might be the ticket for me! Putting my printer to good use.

I looked into this some more, and I now see that there are little positioning nubs on the surface, and supposedly there is haptic feedback when a button is activated? That helps but it still doesn’t necessarily allow you to feel it with your fingertip before you push the button in, you only get...

Could you link? I do have a 3D printer.

I just don’t understand going stalkless at all. This is a concept in product design that a car maker simply cannot afford to toss out. It’s about making the controls accessible and unambiguous AT ALL TIMES, it’s a safety issue! Stalks are great because they do not move with the wheel. To put...

One of the reasons i went used model S over used model 3 was that the 3 (with no instrument cluster) felt like a toy in comparison. I somehow had an issue with the autopilot control on the shifter stalk. The logical part of my brain keeps thinking that the layout of the controls (i.e. stalks!)...

The second link in my original post

I don't want to get the cheap plastic cup holders because it completely blocks the rear air vents... I guess I could keep the velcro in place and just have it in the trunk, to break out only when cup holders are needed, but this is not ideal.

I've got a post-facelift 2016 model S (AP1), the cable is the post-2015 one from maxwell auto tech. I got the self-crimp cable and it was a bit confusing which pins to hook up, but all I needed to do was put the CAN3+ on pin 6 and CAN3- on pin 14 (and the power and ground of course), the OBD...

Great news. So I got my android tablet running and bought SMT for it and it took a slight bit of fiddling but after that it's quite easy to get it to connect to the car. Actually, all the stats are coming up just fine in SMT, so maybe tesLAX is the one that doesn't know my old Model S...

Update, well I connected what I’m pretty sure is CAN3 to OBDLink MX+ On Pins 6 and 14 and I’m getting garbage values in tes-LAX. more experimentation needed :( I’ll use my android tablet instead to try scan-my-Tesla, since it sounds like the iOS app may be buggier.

I unfortunately thought that documentation would be easy to find and ordered the self crimp cable from Maxwell. Now that I have the OBDLink MX+ and this cable on hand, figuring out the pinout turned out to be a bit of an ordeal. The pdf's Maxwell has are laughably bad. But all the information is...

Car didn’t come with any in the back. My friends didn’t have any to work with last trip. It’s a flat (curved) panel. I guess car is from before they added it (but post facelift). Pretty sure it doesn’t have a cup holder hidden inside even if the console has a power cord I could hide it under...

https://www.taptes.com/products/rear-center-console-rcci-for-tesla-model-s-model-x?currency=USD&variant=30983446462566&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxdSHBhCdARIsAG6zhlWZ192C2a7N89QRcN-QdisUCGNmtAATohQSz2r9Iiru8YMt_ykW8e8aAmnPEALw_wcB Thinking...

Just reporting since I've got some supercharger experience with it now. A 2016 AP1 S75D with 33k miles. I was at the charger in Littleton MA and starting from 5% it was pulling 120kW pretty much the whole time and was still charging north of 100kW when we left at 38%. This charge took only 13min...

Did you end up getting these? How is it?

I found some useful information on the tes.lax website, it indicates that the OBDLink CX has faster data rate than the MX+? This does seem to contradict the impression that I had initially. I’ve ordered the Maxwell cable and it will take me probably at least a week to work through my Viofo...

Thank you! I think I will order both a MX+ and canserver to maximize the possibilities. I do like to tinker with electronics so canserver is up my alley and I know that there are some related raspberry pi projects along these lines as well, but I also need a solution that is ready to go.

Hi all. I know which cable to get (this one Tesla CAN Diagnostic Cable (Sept 2015 and up) – Self Crimp OBD-II – Maxwell Automotive Technologies) for my 2016 AP1 Model S (currently in SC for MCU2 upgrade), but what I'm currently struggling with is what is the correct OBD-II dongle to buy to use...

Yeah i had since read some more topics about mysterious random window opening. I'll have to keep an eye on that but it does not seem to be a big problem so far. My Model S is currently in the Service Center for the MCU2 upgrade. Looking forward to having new life breathed into it. Probably if...

In the heat waves recently I noticed the cabin overheat apparently cracked open the passengerside rear window, I think (not 100% sure) which I was slightly surprised by as I expected it to just run the AC. are you saying that if I get intrusion module installed that the overheat protection will...

Recently got my used AP1 (2016 April I believe) model S and super happy with it. I’m looking at: - MCU upgrade $1500 - new key fobs for enhanced security $330 - contemplating the $350 intrusion detection upgrade I’ve gotten the quote for the first 2 items and already approved it, all through...

I see. that sucks. Yeah it definitely seems possible that Tesla can jack SC prices up as much as they want. But I will choose not to worry about THAT specific thing for now.

Hi there @5Wheeler , I'm setting up my AP1 model S with dashcams (would like to get at least front and back for now) and I'm very curious what the wiring situation is for your A119V3 cameras that you're using. I'm hoping to get a IRO dashcam in the front (for that OEM-look) and I think having...

Are you saying that SC rates are really high in CA? Or implying something else? Isn’t gas mad expensive there?

Thanks! I don’t think this car had FUSC and since I left the supercharger it is perma-showing the “add billing to use supercharging” so now my anxiety is all about my upcoming weekend trip, although I will be able at least to charge with 1kW at the Airbnb. just cuz Tesla says it may take days...

I’m not concerned about paying for supercharging TBH. Still better than paying for gas.

I’m at the supercharger now. Finally got my 75D! I’m adding the car to my account. I’m worried that I’ll lose the Highway Autopilot and/or the Premium Connectivity when it transfers to my account. Lol

Interesting. I haven't read about that either! If I understand what you're saying, chargergate/batterygate was introduced by Tesla in 2019 and then resolved by Tesla in late 2020?

Admittedly this is my first full day of serious research but it's been hard to find confirmation of this information. Is this behavior specific to the 75kWh batteries? I've been to the 85kWh chargegate threads. I'm curious if this is the same underlying behavior or not. I wouldn't be surprised...

So there's a lot of consensus here that the fastest way to travel is to go fast, and discharge deep so that the state of charge is low, meaning that the supercharger charge rate will be at its highest. While this obviously makes sense, and I understand that we're in the MY forum here, is it...

I bought a 2016 model S and this thread (and many others like it) are making me very nervous. It sounds like if I don't get the FUSC that I might be able to convince Tesla to enable it for me, but there seem to be multiple possible outcomes in which I won't be able to get it: I got it from a...