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Thinking about purchasing a 2017 100D for 28k with 102000 miles. Warranty (on the powertrain and battery) is 8 years with unlimited miles. I understand Tesla allows warranty transfers even if you are 3rd or 4th owner. Still should have over a year and a half of powertrain warranty if previous is...

The part was $250 Diagnose $245 and labor was $600+, was told if it was a dual motor price would be more.

I don't have any actual diagnostic code numbers. What kept showing on my center dash was three rotating messages. 1.) "Acceleration and top speed reduced, performance may be restored on next drive" I did not notice any reduction 2.) "Vehicle may not restart, service is required" It started...

A pleasant UPDATE: So after dropping the S off at the Dealer on Monday. I got a new estimate of $925 Monday night! Further diagnostics showed the short was not internal [within the main battery] but rather somewhere else externally. They discovered the electric battery heater (1038901-00-K) was...

So I dropped the MS off at the dealer today and I'm told it should likely be ready this Friday. Although I'll be surprised if it happens that soon, Tesla did style me with a nice loner S. Recell did provide an estimate which was going to be $9200 plus delivery and my cost on a rental for a few...

FYI, Gruber has a nine to twelve month waiting period.

I'm in contact with Re-cell via email now. Awaiting the cost, will update. Curious if it has to go to Texas or do they have a facility in SoCal.

So I'm faced with quite a dilemma. 2013 Model S 60 in excellent shape EXCEPT it showed a warning on the dash. "car needs service, may not restart." I set up an appointment and the estimate came back just over 14k! Went to the dealer today to have it explained. I was told it was diagnosed with a...

Curious if Tesla has started installing lithium 12v batteries in the 2023 YLR. If so, is it the Ohmmu brand, someone else or has Tesla got its own?

Thanks for all the help. Did the latest software update....we'll see. It seems for my car once every three to four weeks or more was the norm for a reset. So far so good.

Sorry I should have included that. Yes I upgraded to the MCU2 about six months ago.

Lately my 2013 Model S has needed to be awaken with pressing the two wheels on the steering wheel. That has not been the norm. Could this be a sign that my 12v battery is tired?

Lately I have to get into my sleeping 2013 Model S and wake it with the two button press that takes about 3 minutes. Not always but seems to be happening more frequently as of late. It has MCU2, and when it's like this the phone app does wake it either. Any Ideas?

Yea we're in the same boat. I think Gruber will repair a 60 and being in socal I can get it there. The actual time that buys no one knows. Love the car, upgraded to MCU2 (huge improvement). Was hoping to hear of others out there who've reached 200k on the 60 pack, so far only crickets. Best of...

Yes it is a 60 and I get that it is not an either/or situation. With mine dropping only 12 miles of range in over 8 years I feel that's very acceptable. Along with the fact that it has almost never been supercharged. First appearance is the she is in great shape. But is she really? Do owners of...

I have 2013s that runs very well and since it is no longer under warranty I'm trying to gather some info on what I might expect to happen. It seems I read a lot about sudden failure (car performing well showing 50 to 100 miles of charge) completely and unexpectedly stopping. Curious how often...

Good News-After returning from the SC I tried to charge my car and it kicked off twice in only a few minutes. Last night I tried after midnight and it charged fine. This morning I changed my Tesla PASSWORD and she is charging well now during the day. Lessons learned... Smart Chargers aren't that...

If you read above you'll see the issues about charging that I was dealing with. Took it to the SC for them to check it out. They said everything was working. BUT one of the reps there asked me if I use any third party EV apps. I said I was but that I thought that could be the problem and deleted...

Interesting development? Left the car plugged in overnight and it charged fully from 125 miles to 164 miles (80%) from 3am to 6am!? But I've yet to schedule any charges (either in the car or iphone). Thinking that the car or app did it due to some preset settings?? Anyway not sure if it kicked...

Update- Tried a different level 2 charging cable and the same thing happens, it charges for about 5 minutes and then shuts off. I've never gotten any error message on the car. I don't think it's GFCI related since I tried 110v (no GFCI) and got the same response. Tried different amperages no...

Charger goes from blinking row of green to solid green. I have not seen red.

Tried it at 15a on level 2 and it tripped after 10 minutes or so. Switched to 110 volt and the same thing happened. But I did notice the adapter attachment from 220 to 110/220 was not a firm connection... appeared very loose. Perhaps I'll use some needle nose nose pliers and ever so slightly...

No electric heater, I do have a 40a A/C and a 40a double oven but neither were on. My house is older and I am challenged with only a 100a main panel. The 40a GFCI breaker is on a subpanel near garage.

I believe it shows 228v but will check. I do not unplug my cable. So a couple options to determine if its the car or my electric, I can try 110v trickle or take to a remote charging station and see if that helps. I did reset the display and downloaded 44.30.8 tonight. I will play with a lesser...

I have a 14-50 Nema wall outlet on a 40A GFCI breaker. I don't charge over 30A. Initially (six months ago) the breaker would trip occasionally if I tried to charge at 40A. When this happened today I dropped in to 20A but it still would stop charging.

I have a 2013 S that keeps kicking off the home charger but not tripping the breaker. It charges for a random amount of time but I noticed the charging stops. This has happened about five times today. It has gone from 100 miles to 155 miles during these attempts. I thought it might be the smart...

Have a 2013 S and my question is whether any older models have used a lithium 12v battery to replace the lead acid one. My SC said they offer only the lead acid type for my year. Yet Tesla does now offer the lithium for newer? models. If some of you have gone to lithium which battery...

So here's my update. Towed it to the dealer. Dealer said "12v ground strap was loose and not seated all the way onto the terminal". I asked as to how they gained access to the frunk but the mechanic that fixed wasn't working today. I suspect he manipulated the latch like a blogger posted earlier...

It got towed where no wheels turned. Earlier I mentioned that due to the fact it was locked down and unable to roll a flatbed wouldn't work. So a more standard tow truck raised the front and then they put a tow dolly under each rear wheel (it elevates the rear of the car about 4 inches above...

Appreciate the video gonna have to try that when she gets back from the dealer. Only had the Tesla (my first) for about 5 months and earlier I somewhat predicted this by asking a similar question on this forum. I bought a quick jump battery pack but where did I put it... in the frunk, haha not...

it's a 2013

Doanster' I like your thinking but unable to pop the frunk

I looked and could not find a manual pull for the frunk. I've lined up a tow and will let the group know its fate.

I cant seem to get the frunk open, I think its only manual pull is under passenger side dashboard (which is real helpful). Thought I could pop it once I put 12v to it but no joy. Because it wont roll I'm thinking I need not a flatbed but a normal tow truck to lift the front and dolly the rear...

I had a completely (both displays and new 5g modem) new MCU2 installed almost two months ago and it has worked well since.

So my 13S is dead in the water. Popped the nosecone and put 12v to it and still nothing on both fobs and the phone app. Tried to have Tesla wake it up no go. Got no warning as to 12v battery low. Cannot get into the car. Main batt is charged. She hasn't had a software update for a few months. So...

Newbie here go easy. So I have the jump pack and it powers up the car well in a test from behind the nose cone. But I question if I'll be able to get into either the frunk or the car if 12v battery is dead. I've read about having a dead key and the tricks to get in but this isn't that. Has...