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I fixed all of my problems a few weeks ago by selling my Plaid. :D

Materials are here. Will start bulk production soon. As usual once the flaps are cut I’ll DM you individually on the list for payment/shipping/textured side in/out preference. In the interim, enjoy this short video showing how they are made: @jebinc ‘s front flaps:

Annnnnnd the hardware was delayed by a day.

Small update -- Hardware is out for delivery today, plastic is still trying to get out of Florida for some reason but delivery is expected between Wed-Fri. I have enough spare plastic to cut a few sets in the interim once the hardware gets here so expect a few orders to go out soon. Yesterday I...

I know where that nut is, it's in your rocker panel hanging out by the front wheel. I did that too once and I retrieved it by slightly pulling loose the front of the rocker panel and reaching in from underneath. If you drilled the hole out too big, I suggest installing the well nut onto the...

Yeah the well nuts are a B*TCH to deal with, I was not happy with it, but they hold very well and seal the holes against water intrusion. The holes on the front are just in this weird size-range where most nylon fasteners will just not work -- they will be too short, too tight, or too loose. If...

No luck that time. They must have gotten busy.

I would keep the AS on year round and just use the summers for the track honestly. The AS do not throw rocks as much as the Summers, a lot more peace of mind for a few tenths of a second 0-100 is a fair trade in my book.

You will have plenty of clearance.

Remainnig batch #1 guys -- I ran out of hardware. :S I'm ordering more hardware from Carr for the rest of batch 1 -- as well as ordering the supplies for Batch #2. I'm still going to cut the rest of Batch #1's flaps shortly. ALSO -- I'm showing 9 delivered Batch #1's so far, but no pictures...

How much spin do you get (above 60 F) from a dig on an unprepped surface?

Check tsportline's tire selection. May be some pointers there.

👀 DM me

I think the fender contours would be off a bit and the mounting locations possibly different.

Appreciate the work you're doing here. I'm looking forward to passing the torch to someone. :)

Small update again for Batch 1 That last shipped set was the 21st set. I have made 84 mud flaps so far. Definitely never a hobby I thought I'd have.

Small update: @deadwynter and @MFrunkerOG check your dms

Batch 1 Update:

This. I don't have a car to do the no drill. But I'm 100% sure I can do it if I had a car to template with. So fronts require 1 extra hole in the black plastic fender liner, rears require no drilling and mount in factory location. Edit: snow has about 85% melted. So I will be shipping a lot of...

Finalized the first six orders of the next batch this evening. I have enough flaps cut currently to fill another 4 orders, and I believe I have enough material left from that to fill at least 2 -- possibly 3 or 4 more orders. Will know once I break into it in a few days. Here's the current...

Current batch price is $80 for full set, $35 for rears or fronts only. Next batch will be different (hopefully cheaper).

You're next on the list.

Got through the first six orders tonight worth of front flaps, as promised. I'm very happy with how accurate the routing table ended up being, but boy did it make a mess. I will begin notifying members now for payment, flap direction, front only vs full set, and shipping details. Be...

The server gods heard me and uploads are working. Thank you out there in serverland. Anyhoo here's Flapstation's final form: Because I did not want/have the time to spend hours babysitting the CNC I decided to combine the perfected method on the rears with a common woodworking technique of...

I start taking payments tomorrow and shipping Wednesday. It will be a bit slower this time -- 2-4 sets per day shipping until all 10 sets are through. Then I'll reassess my extra material and make sure I can get the extra 5 or so sets this time. The rear have been ready since last week, for the...

Yep.

Well not really "back", but you only pay tax on the difference (in Texas at least) vs the whole value of the new vehicle. You've still spent that tax on the prior vehicle.

That's crazy. I got $130,000 at 3000 miles. Car was $134,000 and change IIRC new (plus tax). Why was yours so much more? FSD?

That LR should still be quicker than my GTS will be in a straight line at least. No idea how they would compare on a track. But no worries, it's two different types of cars.

Yeah exactly. I did an early trade and made back the value sans tax. I could have sold it privately or to a wholesaler but against the Taycans value it made more sense to just trade given their offer. Save time too.

Honestly it's just me being fickle. My Plaid had problems, but so did my prior Tesla's. I knew what I was getting into, but there wasn't any particular "thing" related to the Tesla that made me decide. I'm sure the Taycan will have it's own host of issues. When the Taycan GTS was announced I...

I made back what I paid for it essentially.

Rear only flap orders ship Wednesday. Missing hardware is arriving finally. :) Also, if anyone wants to switch their "rear" only order back to full flaps just let me know. I still have enough material to do the full sets. Also, full flap people -- orders should start shipping later this...

Highest setting: Front: Rear: Lowest setting: Front: Rear:

The Tesla flaps look hideous. 😓 Small update. McMaster Carr finally shipped the missing hardware.

When I DM you to collect payment I'll take the rough/smooth side out directions for your order. Same goes for everyone.

Next batch of 10 cars worth of rear flaps completed this evening. All identical down to the 100th of a mm. Couple of things: 1) I *MIGHT* have some minor changes coming to the front flaps that will remove the need to drill that 1 hole. Stay tuned on that. 2) The order list site is still in...

Took a few videos underneath, still can't make heads or tails of if it's control arm or steering linkage. I think the next step is a stethoscope.

This response from a while back got me thinking... When you're under heavy acceleration in the plaid, it can lift the nose pretty high. Even in low suspension setting. Exposing the front shafts to ~350ft lbs of torque at a high CV angle. (This low shutter speed video shot was the best I...

It's a FoxAlien 4040 Masuter. Just an entry level CNC. Flaps are stacking up folks.

I felt underneath the car with my hands while the wife subtly steered it (on the ground with the wheels on.) I kind of felt a bit of a vibration in the forward lower control arm mount, but it was very subtle and hard to feel. So I put the car in the air and took the wheel off. Giving some...

Comparison to my workstation when I started making these by hand versus now with a machine: I love solving these kinds of small problems. Also I should lay off the soda. Bonus shot:

The tooling for the V2 flaps is complete and production has begun! (Rears I these pics.) Now with the milling process I just sit back and wait while the machines do the work. All flaps will now be identically cut. As soon as the remaining hardware comes in I will begin shipments! (Should be any...

I pushed my service appointment out to the 25th--but really it's pushed out until further notice because it's officially too cold to drive on the summer tires in North Texas at the moment. (20-25 degrees each morning for the next 10 days at least)

If it is an issue with the lower control arm mount -- it's a fairly trivial fix if they figure it out. You just need experience and/or special equipment to do it safely. edit: But yeah it's pretty annoying given the car's cost.

Oddly if I put my weight on the a pillar and jump up and down and make the car shake, it's not enough to cause the creak. Guess 6'2" 210lbs isn't fat enough haha. I should put my jack under the driver puck area and gently lift/release to see if it happens then.

And what do you know, the guy from the video (@ViperGuy) also isolated to his driver side lower control arm:

So I took the frunk panels off and gave a listen while the wife gently steered the car, put my hands on the sway bar linkage, the steering rack, upper and lower control arm, could not find the cracking sound... BUT I did manage to isolate it to the driver's side, somewhere near the lower control...

That last bit *might* be normal. If so it's due to the agressive tire width and weight of the vehicle. It's actually the force of the tires skipping along the ground that causes it. If you want to test for it, drive over an expansion joint in some concrete then back over it while turning...

I am unable to force it to make these sounds by bouncing it by hand.