I often see these carriers unloading near dealerships. Next time you see one, just stop and ask the driver if they would be able to toss another vehicle on their truck. I can't imagine they are always full. Granted, you might have to pay a few bucks more for only one car, compared to the dozen a dealer would ship... but if a truck is going from saskatoon to calgary with an empty load, I think they'd prefer to take your vehicle along for the ride.
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I often see these carriers unloading near dealerships. Next time you see one, just stop and ask the driver if they would be able to toss another vehicle on their truck. I can't imagine they are always full. Granted, you might have to pay a few bucks more for only one car, compared to the dozen a dealer would ship... but if a truck is going from saskatoon to calgary with an empty load, I think they'd prefer to take your vehicle along for the ride.
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
Can you buy things from Amazon? I'm surprised no one suggested a CTEK 4.3 amp smart charger.
Grab one 2nd day shipping or whatever is reasonable. Put the car into deep sleep mode and plug the CTEK into the 12v posts behind the nose cone for as long as you can afford (12 to 24 hours might be good) it'll desulfate the battery some and charge it. That might possibly make it reliable enough for a few days use.
Repeat every day of the week if possible for several days and you might gain enough confidence for a longer trip, maybe enough to drive to the service center for the replacement.
You also have the option to carry a 50ft or 100ft or whatever 120v extension cord and the CTEK with you on the trip to the grocery store or whatever. Being able to plug in will save you from having to call a tow truck so long as you remember to try and park within reach of a 120v outlet you can turn the car off and have confidence that you can get it to turn back on even with a low 12v battery.
With luck there will be 120v plugs in parking lots for block heater use and you can plug in there.
Grab one 2nd day shipping or whatever is reasonable. Put the car into deep sleep mode and plug the CTEK into the 12v posts behind the nose cone for as long as you can afford (12 to 24 hours might be good) it'll desulfate the battery some and charge it. That might possibly make it reliable enough for a few days use.
Repeat every day of the week if possible for several days and you might gain enough confidence for a longer trip, maybe enough to drive to the service center for the replacement.
You also have the option to carry a 50ft or 100ft or whatever 120v extension cord and the CTEK with you on the trip to the grocery store or whatever. Being able to plug in will save you from having to call a tow truck so long as you remember to try and park within reach of a 120v outlet you can turn the car off and have confidence that you can get it to turn back on even with a low 12v battery.
With luck there will be 120v plugs in parking lots for block heater use and you can plug in there.
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Even though the 12v battery is hard to get to, the terminals are accessible; consider putting a second 12v battery in the frunk wired in parallel (with a fuse in the circuit) with the other one (connected to 12v terminals behind nose cone), for just long enough to be able to drive the car the 1700 km to SC. This might work.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
This is a good solution to use a CTEK charger to extend the remaining 12V battery life.
There is a thread about charging through the 12V accessory plug ... the mod is detailed in this post:
Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech
There is a thread about charging through the 12V accessory plug ... the mod is detailed in this post:
Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech
Ingineer said: ↑
BTW, it's a simple matter to keep the 12v outlet in the console live all the time if desired. It's just a simple relay in fuse box #2 (the one on the passenger side under the removable cowling cover - see owners manual). Simply make up a jumper consisting of short piece of 14AWG or better wire with a couple of male 1/4" spade terminals. Pull the front most passenger side relay out and insert the jumper into the now exposed 1/4" female receptacles, and you're done, the 12v outlet is now on all the time. You can quickly change it back anytime by removing the jumper and reinstalling the relay.
Click to expand...
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My husband and my friend have both used TFX to ship their cars across the country. They are used to high end cars, and specialize in cross-border but we have had them do shipments from Ontario to BC. I'm not sure what the price would be for your distance and whether it would be cheaper than the ranger.
AMPUP
Member
FWIW I ran mine with this message for several weeks, the same time a new software update came out enabling reverse lines etc (one of the good updates) The car wouldnt update due to the battery message so I popped one of the fuses (Forget which one), the warning message went away and I updated the software. The warning didn't come back and I had the battery replaced a week later. I think you are ok to make the trip. Personally I would just have them ship you the battery or buy one locally and remove the frunk and install yourself, it isn't difficult.
Thanks for the heads up! I hadn't heard of TFX before but they certainly sound like something I could make use of, depending on where their depots are. I doubt they'll be cheaper than the Ranger when you factor in my remote location but I sent them a quote request anyway. You never know.
I had the same problem (couldn't update the car), but I figured the 12V was just too low for the car to feel safe performing the update. I but the battery on the trickle charger we use for our Lexus hybrid (we're constantly killing the 12V in that thing!) and it reported a SOC of between 25% and 50% on the Tesla 12V. I let it charge right up before trying the update again. No problems that time.
UPDATE 5/1/2016
Just a little update on my 12V battery situation; fortunately, I finally heard back from Tesla and they told me a Ranger would be in my "area" (ie: within 600km) at the beginning of May and that he could replace my 12V. I kind of felt sorry for the poor guy because it looked like a real bear to finagle that battery into place and reconnect it. It was also about 25 degrees Celsius at midday when he did the swap, so it was deathly hot with no shade anywhere. Lucky for us the air was still cool. The Ranger was also able to replace a malfunctioning door handle and key fob while I was there, so that was nice.
The downside to the story is that for every problem fixed, another had popped up by the next day...and these were not able to be repaired due to lack of time/tools. The Ranger replaced my front passenger door handle but the next morning the driver-side rear one died! Hopefully Tesla will just do them ALL next time instead of waiting for them to fail one-by-one and wanting me to pay for a Ranger each time (of course, there's only one left now). There's also a weird contact error with the main touchscreen that causes most of the top-row buttons to activate simultaneously and at random. This means my car was constantly locking/unlocking (I never know its status at any one time unless I check the phone app) and bringing up random screens like the SOC screen or the ADD NETWORK screen.
Of even more concern is a problem with the right upper control arm ball joint of my air suspension. Right now it just squeaks like mad (a little embarrassing at stoplights, to say the least) but eventually this will have to be replaced at a service center (the HV battery must be dropped out to perform the repair) and they can't tell me how long it will be safe to drive in its current condition. I was planning a trip to Vancouver this summer anyway, but it sounds like Tesla would like me there ASAP. I'm afraid I'll have to disappoint them. A trip of several thousand kilometers like that can't just be pulled together on a whim (I need to book time off work, book hotels, etc).
So the upshot is: One step forward, two steps back...
Just a little update on my 12V battery situation; fortunately, I finally heard back from Tesla and they told me a Ranger would be in my "area" (ie: within 600km) at the beginning of May and that he could replace my 12V. I kind of felt sorry for the poor guy because it looked like a real bear to finagle that battery into place and reconnect it. It was also about 25 degrees Celsius at midday when he did the swap, so it was deathly hot with no shade anywhere. Lucky for us the air was still cool. The Ranger was also able to replace a malfunctioning door handle and key fob while I was there, so that was nice.
The downside to the story is that for every problem fixed, another had popped up by the next day...and these were not able to be repaired due to lack of time/tools. The Ranger replaced my front passenger door handle but the next morning the driver-side rear one died! Hopefully Tesla will just do them ALL next time instead of waiting for them to fail one-by-one and wanting me to pay for a Ranger each time (of course, there's only one left now). There's also a weird contact error with the main touchscreen that causes most of the top-row buttons to activate simultaneously and at random. This means my car was constantly locking/unlocking (I never know its status at any one time unless I check the phone app) and bringing up random screens like the SOC screen or the ADD NETWORK screen.
Of even more concern is a problem with the right upper control arm ball joint of my air suspension. Right now it just squeaks like mad (a little embarrassing at stoplights, to say the least) but eventually this will have to be replaced at a service center (the HV battery must be dropped out to perform the repair) and they can't tell me how long it will be safe to drive in its current condition. I was planning a trip to Vancouver this summer anyway, but it sounds like Tesla would like me there ASAP. I'm afraid I'll have to disappoint them. A trip of several thousand kilometers like that can't just be pulled together on a whim (I need to book time off work, book hotels, etc).
So the upshot is: One step forward, two steps back...
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Lon12
Member
Thanks for the update. I'm getting two door handles fixed tomorrow. So I will have three new ones now. You would think they would replace all of them at the same time. Also had the 12v replaced a few months ago. I have the rear end "click" noise that will need to be looked at as well.
It's actually a bit funny because people always ask me how the car handles the winter cold and I didn't have a single issue all winter long.
It wasn't until Spring that the problems showed up. Go figure.
It wasn't until Spring that the problems showed up. Go figure.
"25 C = Deathly hot" LOL, I guess when you live in northern SK you get recalibrated for what is hot and cold.
Thanks for updating us, and good luck with your ball joint replacement. It may not be a good idea to drive it to the service center. See the recent thread where an owner had a suspension failure due to ball joint corrosion. A local shop should be able to replace the ball joint, but you may have to pursuance Tesla to sell you the part(s) needed. It would be safer and probably less expensive to have it repaired locally.
I doubt the high voltage battery really needs to be removed to replace the ball joint. Tesla may want to replace the contactors inside the battery, or something.
Good Luck,
GSP
Here is the suspension thread that I mentioned:
Suspension Problem on Model S
Aussie Bob
Member
I had the 12v battery problem in Feb 2015 in Ottawa when the average high temp for the month was -16.8C. I was told it was okay to drive the car provided I could plug in at my destination. This should work until a ranger came to the service. Well I could not guarantee that I could charge each time when out and about so did not use the car for about 4 days until a ranger came to Ottawa from Montreal for several jobs at one time. He replaced the battery in an unheated garage when temp was around -20C. The opposite of our Saskatchewan friend. Fortunately this has been my only problem so far but usually I am not driving the car in most winter periods as we tend to try and avoid Canadian winters.
I had my upper control arm replaced via ranger service a month ago... one tech previously (Keith) mentioned he could do it in the field, but when the time came, a different tech + Dave (?) the new guy both worked on it. Dave mentioned he didn't know how he would have done it solo - maybe that's why it isn't happening in the field now? A bit worrisome that we both had the same issue, to me it doesn't bode well. I'm a bit worried about my other side now.
From the invoice:
Concern: Customer states: steering squeak - Keith heard it. Suspects the RF upper control
arm balljoint being dry and squeaking on turns
Corrections: Exterior NVH General Diagnosis
Road tested vehicle and confirmed RF upper ball joint causing noise and excessive play.
Corrections: Control Arm - Upper - Front - RH
Replaced Control Arm - Upper - Front - RH.
Performed function check after repair procedure = OK.
Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity
UPPER CONTROL ARM SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY - FRONT RIGHT - DUAL
MOTOR (1043966-00-A)
BOLT, M10x1.50x100MM, ZINC ALUMINUM
(1004357-00-A)
NUT, M10x1.50mm (2007059-00-B) 2
BOLT, BUTTON HEAD, M10x1.50x57MM,
ZINC ALUMINUM (1004350-00-A)
NUT, M10x1.50MM, ZINC ALUMINUM
(1004351-00-A)
Corrections: Perform Validation Test Drive
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