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12v wire tap for Radar Detector

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Thanks guys.

This car definitely has a mind of its own. After conducting some experiments last night, I found that it would turn off after a designated time; although this time seems to vary (a couple times it was 10 minutes or so and when I returned home this morning, it took about 30 minutes). The outlier was when I went to the gym this morning for 1.5 hours. The unit remained on the entire time. The car was locked and my phone key and I were far enough away from the car where I feel like it should have turned off. But when I returned and opened the door, the V1 didn't go through its initial boot up sequence as it was already on.

The only thing I can think of (but don't know why there would be a connection) is that sentry mode is armed at the gym but not at home (as I have the "Exclude Home" box checked? I can't imagine why having Sentry mode armed would keep the center console powered, but maybe there is a reason for it. Has anyone else seen where the V1 will remain online for an extended duration while away from the car?
I believe recently it will power up when sentry mode is armed AND triggered\recording an event. I plan to test this theory more, just hasn't been an issue so far.
 
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I used a bolt in same general area as the VC left power that goes into the body of the car.
Pics here How to Hard Wire Install a Radar Detector to the Tesla Model 3 | LivingTesla

Kbra, I followed your written photo page and everything was working last week until I updated the firmware to 2019.32.12.2 this Monday. I don't know if the new firmware has anything done to this pin, or just my 5mm spade connector is loose somehow. I found a small space and poked the spade connector with a chopstick but no luck. Is yours still working?
 
Kbra, I followed your written photo page and everything was working last week until I updated the firmware to 2019.32.12.2 this Monday. I don't know if the new firmware has anything done to this pin, or just my 5mm spade connector is loose somehow. I found a small space and poked the spade connector with a chopstick but no luck. Is yours still working?
I'm on 12.2 and all is fine. Saw you got it going again. You need to really get that plug in there. It's a deep socket.
 
I have a newer model 3 and the slot everyone has been recommending to use with a 5mm spade is in use with a red wire. Rather than tap it down below (and risk tapping the wrong wire), I simply unplugged the white connector (with 2 black wires and the red wire), brought it down to where I could work with 2 hands, tapped into it for my radar detector, then plugged it back in again after

Worked great - power is on only when I'm in the car, sentry doesn't activate it.

Also I found the initial ground spot I used wasn't a real ground, so my detector didn't power on. I ended up using a ground spot that is low and towards the front, almost underneath the carpet in the back.
 
I have a newer model 3 and the slot everyone has been recommending to use with a 5mm spade is in use with a red wire. Rather than tap it down below (and risk tapping the wrong wire), I simply unplugged the white connector (with 2 black wires and the red wire), brought it down to where I could work with 2 hands, tapped into it for my radar detector, then plugged it back in again after

Worked great - power is on only when I'm in the car, sentry doesn't activate it.

Also I found the initial ground spot I used wasn't a real ground, so my detector didn't power on. I ended up using a ground spot that is low and towards the front, almost underneath the carpet in the back.

Do you have pics of the connector you are referring to?
 
I thought I would add to this because it shows up in google. I have a 2020 and wanted to hardwire my valentine one. Since that plug has the red wire in it and I could not reach the damn thing I decided to tap into the light blue wire where the driver side footwell is. Follow the video that was posted earlier to access it. (fyi this car is really easy to take apart) Remove the electrical tape from the bundle so you can pull the blue wire out. Use the blue wire that is not wrapped with the white wire, its alone. Use the blue tap from this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMC5DII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the ground I chose not to use the one underneath the carpet in the footwell. That is an active ground for electrical in the car and its not happy to be disconnected. You will get error codes and its a pain to reach down there. At the very bottom of the trim covering between the a pillar and kick panel is a metal bolt. Its behind that taupe colored panel. Loosen slightly, and put in the ground wire there. I used a looped connector and just tucked it under the bolt. Works perfect.

Radar detector turns on as soon as you open the door. Seems to shut off pretty quickly after you close it. I have not gone out to my car to find it continuously on.

Again I chose this because that connector is a royal pita to reach. I think members on here are 100lb gymnasts or something. I used to do car audio a long time ago and have worked on so many cars. Ive been in cars twisted like a pretzel to reach things but could not get this connector. These taps on amazon are not intrusive and can be removed a few minutes. Nobody would ever know it was there.

Radar detector is mounted on the windshield. Theres a perfect spot so it sits just above the mirror and with the visor closed the rear facing antennas can still see out the back. Im personally not a fan of the blendmount location or the price they charge but I know im in the minority on this.
 
I thought I would add to this because it shows up in google. I have a 2020 and wanted to hardwire my valentine one. Since that plug has the red wire in it and I could not reach the damn thing I decided to tap into the light blue wire where the driver side footwell is. Follow the video that was posted earlier to access it. (fyi this car is really easy to take apart) Remove the electrical tape from the bundle so you can pull the blue wire out. Use the blue wire that is not wrapped with the white wire, its alone. Use the blue tap from this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMC5DII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the ground I chose not to use the one underneath the carpet in the footwell. That is an active ground for electrical in the car and its not happy to be disconnected. You will get error codes and its a pain to reach down there. At the very bottom of the trim covering between the a pillar and kick panel is a metal bolt. Its behind that taupe colored panel. Loosen slightly, and put in the ground wire there. I used a looped connector and just tucked it under the bolt. Works perfect.

Radar detector turns on as soon as you open the door. Seems to shut off pretty quickly after you close it. I have not gone out to my car to find it continuously on.

Again I chose this because that connector is a royal pita to reach. I think members on here are 100lb gymnasts or something. I used to do car audio a long time ago and have worked on so many cars. Ive been in cars twisted like a pretzel to reach things but could not get this connector. These taps on amazon are not intrusive and can be removed a few minutes. Nobody would ever know it was there.

Radar detector is mounted on the windshield. Theres a perfect spot so it sits just above the mirror and with the visor closed the rear facing antennas can still see out the back. Im personally not a fan of the blendmount location or the price they charge but I know im in the minority on this.

Are you running Sentry mode? I installed my V1 the same way and over the last month, I have found that when Sentry mode is armed, my V1 pretty much remains on at all times after I leave the car. When I am home (I have Sentry mode disabled at home), the V1 will eventually turn off after the car locks.

I used the ground near the dead pedal. It definitely doesn't like to be disconnected, as I got the arcing "sizzle" during the removal and subsequent installation of the ground wire. No fault codes thankfully.

Eventually I was thinking of just tapping into that new red wire to negate my issues, but I would have to find it first...
 
Are you running Sentry mode? I installed my V1 the same way and over the last month, I have found that when Sentry mode is armed, my V1 pretty much remains on at all times after I leave the car. When I am home (I have Sentry mode disabled at home), the V1 will eventually turn off after the car locks.

I used the ground near the dead pedal. It definitely doesn't like to be disconnected, as I got the arcing "sizzle" during the removal and subsequent installation of the ground wire. No fault codes thankfully.

Eventually I was thinking of just tapping into that new red wire to negate my issues, but I would have to find it first...

I use sentry mode but its disabled at my house so it doesnt run for that long. Just a little here and there in stores or showing homes. The current draw is so small it wouldnt concern me at all. I would just turn it off for long periods. I wonder if that red wire goes down where the blue wire is? I didnt want to start tapping into them to test it.
 
Are you running Sentry mode? I installed my V1 the same way and over the last month, I have found that when Sentry mode is armed, my V1 pretty much remains on at all times after I leave the car. When I am home (I have Sentry mode disabled at home), the V1 will eventually turn off after the car locks.

I used the ground near the dead pedal. It definitely doesn't like to be disconnected, as I got the arcing "sizzle" during the removal and subsequent installation of the ground wire. No fault codes thankfully.

Eventually I was thinking of just tapping into that new red wire to negate my issues, but I would have to find it first...
I've noticed V1 kicks on when Sentry triggers an event, but not while sitting there enabled.
 
Tried reaching the plug for VCLEFT and there is no way I can get to it. So I tapped off RED wire in loom running down to floor..a bit scary, but worked. Some input for the Ground.. there is a threaded open bolt hole on the door frame which is also the place to run some of your wire up to the A-Pillar. I simply found a bolt that was the right size and connected my ground there.
 
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2020 model 3 wire tap done :). Starts up when I open the door and shuts when I leave the car and close the door.
I found the red wire that is running from the switch mentioned earlier in the write up. It’s tucked away in original wire wrap. There are 3 wires 2 black and red. I tapped into the red and it’s perfect switched power 12v.

Thanks to my buddy Khoa Phan for helping me out on this one!!
 

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I tapped the red wire in the connector of my 2020 Model 3 Performance. Definitely the worst place to work on in the car to install something if your aren’t removing all the panels. I connected a Uniden R7 with a PosiTap. I only removed the panel with the light to get to the connector and ended up removed the side panel to find a good grounding spot.

I won’t be going down there again!
 
I just did this.. tapping the red wire coming out of the pictured port using a blue posi-tap. Couldn't unscrew the ground screw since it had some kind of loctite material.. Didn't help the fact that I didn't have the right socket either. But I made it work by sticking it under the screw(pretty tight) and taping the wire part to the white plastic piece so it doesn't move.. It doesn't have any play even when I pulled it so it should stay. I went for a quick test drive and everything works fine! Now I need to upgrade my old v1 to the new one once they open up after the shut down.
 
Holy crap... just got this all torn apart... thank goodness my '19 has the red wire... it was very hard to find even with that... I have no idea how people can even see this connector and can't imagine trying to get a spade into it. Maybe in this long thread this has been mentioned before, but it's real important to use that ground as a landmark and go 3" to the left of that. I haven't finished yet, but at least I can see my target. Sometimes on a project like this it really helps to break it up a bit