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2013 Model S P85 Won't Charge

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Hello! First let me say I've been lurking a few months while shopping for a Tesla. I took a gamble on a 2013 Model S P85 with high miles (155k) that in the listing stated an inability to charge.

I've looked around at other posts and seen similar issues and am curious if I should look into dropping the HV battery and checking for loose voltage sense wires like this post.

When I towed the car to Tesla they said I need a new HV pack, and I don't doubt that that is a possibility. However, when I went to get the car, it was clear they didn't move it but just supplied 12V to the car and got a remote diag (which they mentioned in the service summary).

Service Mode Codes:

BMS_u008_limpMode

Acceleration and top speed reduced
BMS_w107_SW_Cell_Voltage_Sensor
Vehicle may not restart
BMS_w018_SW_Brick_UV
Electrical system power reduced
BMS_f107_SW_Cell_Voltage_Sensor
Service is required

Here's the kicker. The car couldn't drive when I purchased it. It's showing 0% and 0 miles. The charge port is keeping the lock up but I can lower the lock with part of an old AAA card and plug the charger in. It will try to charge for about 30-45 seconds, then stop. I can then use the button on the charger and control the lock. But I cannot control the charge port lock before manually lowering it with the card. I wonder if the car is blocking me because of the BMS codes?

I feel like I wrote a book but hope someone might be able to point the way (and maybe help me save $16k in the process). Lastly, if I did need to replace the pack, has anyone successfully been able to keep their old HV battery for DIY projects, or does Tesla SC take them as a core?

Thx!
Joel
 

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Have you tried hooking up a 12volt battery charger to the 12 volt battery and let it charge overnight, then with the battery charger still connected try to plug the EVSE in to charge the HV battery. I'm very new to the Tesla scene, as I just purchased a 2013 MS 85 with 150,000 miles. I got the car last Monday and drove it to work Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday charging at work each day using an A/C charger. Thursday it kept stopping the charging and stupid me, I thought it was something I was doing. Well, I had to leave early for an IV treatment and got in the car only to find out it wouldn't drive. It said the low voltage battery was too low. Long story longer, I remembered that the 12volt battery is used to close the HV contactors. No 12volts, no HV. Maybe?
 
Apologies for the late replies!
Have you tried hooking up a 12volt battery charger to the 12 volt battery and let it charge overnight, then with the battery charger still connected try to plug the EVSE in to charge the HV battery... It said the low voltage battery was too low. Long story longer, I remembered that the 12volt battery is used to close the HV contactors. No 12volts, no HV. Maybe?
Yes, have tried this a couple times and have left the car on connector to a battery maintainer since. The 12V battery was just replaced in June as well. I got my eyes on it and can confirm it is a new battery. I have a 12V tester I can test it on too and it came back good.

The charge port does not act normal. When the door opens the port does not light up. Also, I just got a cheaper J1772 adapter and "Dremel'd" the lock portion away to bypass the lock that is still up and not need my AAA card. This stopped the error about charging being disabled when the manual release is used but the behavior has not changed. 30 seconds or so of "starting to charge" then "charging stopped."
What software is the car running? Did they update it at the SC?
Just updated again last night to 2022.8.10.12 - No change. The SC didn't do anything beside a remote diag.
I read somewhere on here Tesla would charge a $15,000 core fee; if they even offer the option.
If so, Tesla is actually pricing the HV battery between $31k and $35k.
Interesting. So much for the 2019 quote from Elon stating $5000-7000 replacement, per a recent JD Power article. Albeit, that was a model 3 statement.

Thanks all for the ideas. I feel if I can clear the codes I can coax the car to at least charge a little. Factory reset and full software reinstall have not helped.
 
Mine 2013 at about 170k miles wouldn't charge twice. Once after 12 hours it would charge. The second time was on a road trip and after six hours it still wouldn't charge and we ended up doing the refurbish battery for a little over 10k, in 2022. Put 20k miles on the refurbished battery so far it works perfect. came with a 50k mile warranty, comes to $0.20+/mile of warranty coverage. If it goes 150k miles for the 10k refurbish cost I'll call it a fair deal.

How did yours work out?
 
Mine 2013 at about 170k miles wouldn't charge twice. Once after 12 hours it would charge. The second time was on a road trip and after six hours it still wouldn't charge and we ended up doing the refurbish battery for a little over 10k, in 2022. Put 20k miles on the refurbished battery so far it works perfect. came with a 50k mile warranty, comes to $0.20+/mile of warranty coverage. If it goes 150k miles for the 10k refurbish cost I'll call it a fair deal.

How did yours work out?
Where did you get your refurbished battery?
 
Thank you all for the responses! The clean title came in the mail this week so my wife and I have decided to sell it. Perhaps someone with more skill and knowledge would like to take it on. In the meantime, we bought a 2016 90D with 75k miles and a warranty until March 2024. Not soliciting a sale on this page but PM me if you're interested in getting it. It has free supercharging for the life of the vehicle and I am sure will serve the right person well. I just ran out of time. I kept the 12v on a battery tender so that has been saved from going kaput.