b team
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New drive train is worth more than a couple of thousand...I'd say $80-82k is about the right price. $92,750-$8,500=$84,250. Less a couple thousand for the older drive train and comparing similar Inventory cars.
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New drive train is worth more than a couple of thousand...I'd say $80-82k is about the right price. $92,750-$8,500=$84,250. Less a couple thousand for the older drive train and comparing similar Inventory cars.
I'd say $80-82k is about the right price. $92,750-$8,500=$84,250. Less a couple thousand for the older drive train and comparing similar Inventory cars.
Yeah, i got to about 84K too.
Sale Price - 1.5% Depreciation (1 Months worth of depreciation off the sale price) - Tax Credit ($7500) = $83,858.
So yeah 80-83 is the fair range I think. Probably on the lower end considering if it's an older drive train (Pre July 1st).
I'm no expert, but I don't think I'd pay $80k for this car when this car is available for $77k:
Model S 75D 5YJSA1E2XHF209569 | Tesla
Am I missing something?
In that link, it's actually 85K Cash Price, not 78K. (Plus you have to add in an additional 2K for shipping). And we don't know if it's the new spec 75D or not.
Cash price for the car in this thread probably 80-83K. If you go pick it up yourself, you save on shipping costs.
Sure, the cash price would be lower but does that mean you'd value the federal tax credit at zero dollars?
What is the price offered by the dealer and Tesla?
Maybe there's a little bit of room north of 70k but not too much. There are a number of inventory 75Ds with similar options and fewer miles that are $77k after tax credit and referral discount (e.g. Model S 75D 5YJSA1E2XHF209569 | Tesla). And that doesn't get into going new (or waiting a month or two for an inventory car) to get the upgraded drive unit and air suspension included.
I'd say $80-82k is about the right price. $92,750-$8,500=$84,250. Less a couple thousand for the older drive train and comparing similar Inventory cars.
New drive train is worth more than a couple of thousand...
1. Drive train.
2. Air suspension
3. It's not a new car. The carfax will show additional owner.
4. Lack of supercharging transfer?
5. May or may not be configured how you like.
Easily 10k worth of discount.
Somebody local that likes the configuration and doesn't need the tax break would be the best bet for top dollar.
Yeah, i got to about 84K too.
Sale Price - 1.5% Depreciation (1 Months worth of depreciation off the sale price) - Tax Credit ($7500) = $83,858.
So yeah 80-83 is the fair range I think. Probably on the lower end considering if it's an older drive train (Pre July 1st).
I'm no expert, but I don't think I'd pay $80k for this car when this car is available for $77k:
Model S 75D 5YJSA1E2XHF209569 | Tesla
Am I missing something?
In that link, it's actually 85K Cash Price, not 78K. (Plus you have to add in an additional 2K for shipping). And we don't know if it's the new spec 75D or not.
Cash price for the car in this thread probably 80-83K. If you go pick it up yourself, you save on shipping costs.
Sure, the cash price would be lower but does that mean you'd value the federal tax credit at zero dollars? Also, same spec local to California so no delivery fee:
Model S 75D 5YJSA1E29HF209577 | Tesla
True, we don't know for sure that the car has the new drive unit but from the VINs in this thread, there's a good chance that it does. Additionally, if you look at the source for that page and search for options, you can see the option codes for the car. It shows DU00 which, I think, indicates it would have the new drive unit. Even if it didn't, neither does the car in this thread, right?
One downside to the car I posted is the sales tax would be slightly higher because of the higher selling price but that would only account for about a $500 difference, assuming northern California tax rates.
Also, I apologize to OP; the car in this thread is beautiful and I don't want to take away anything from it. I'm just really trying to understand what I'm missing where a new car, similarly (but not exactly) equipped for $77k after rebates ($84k cash price, after referral discount) would be less compelling than this car for $80-83k?
I'm not putting a value of the tax credits at $0. The problem is that the tax credit affects everyone differently. Some people actually will have at least $7500 in tax liability. And some people will barely have a liability. So while you may be able to take full advantage of it, another person may only be able to take advantage of say 4K or 5K. So that leaves them a loss of 2.5-3.5K in savings.
This is why I only look at the straight cash price. It's really misleading on the Tesla website when they say you save an additional $7500, when really you don't. It depends on how much liability you will have AND the fact that it's not like you can take the $7500 and put it directly towards the principle of the car (if you can please someone let me know how and I would do that in a heartbeat).
Actually even with the full tax credit of the new inventory, OP's car would still be cheaper. No sales tax to pay (that would save you 4-5K right there.), no shipping (there's another 2K of savings), etc.
So that 85K new inventory could easily go up to about around 92K final sale price.
This car shouldn't sell for more than 70k.
Most people also forget new interest rates are .99%. In CA with referrals we get $11,000 off a new Tesla. It's never a better deal to buy an used Tesla unless someone list it very cheap.
New tesla has free super charging and air suspension. Can get a loan at around $1,200 a month with low downpay. I believe they loan up to 105% of the car. You just need 5 to 6k as down pay for taxes and etc.
That sounds like a good deal for you. In your shoes, I'd take it!The local dealer wants to give me $78500 on trade plus tax credit that i get on the new car. Let's say (which I am) getting the full 75000 tax credit i am loosing around 7k on this car.. As far as Tesla, I am waiting to head back today.
Actually even with the full tax credit of the new inventory, OP's car would still be cheaper. No sales tax to pay (that would save you 4-5K right there.), no shipping (there's another 2K of savings), etc.
So that 85K new inventory could easily go up to about around 92K final sale price.
Yup, texas you still pay taxes on the car regardless new or old.
Or you can just register in Montana hahah
Really? That is so messed up. Double Taxation? Or perhaps I was misunderstood.
I'm in Illinois. If I bought your car, I would only pay a private party sales tax based on a bracket based upon the final private sell price. Given the price of this car, my sales tax liability would be $1,500 and that's it. Plus doc and title of course. But I do not at all pay the original sales tax paid on the car. (4-6K).
So in Texas and California, you pay the original sales tax rate even if it's a used car? "Again"?
I forgot to factor in every state is different. So depending on which state you live in will depend if the new inventory or OP's car is the best deal for you.
OP has the advantage. You can pick up the car literally tomorrow. New Inventory will be at least 2 weeks and Custom Order probably like 1-2 months.
This car shouldn't sell for more than 70k.
Sure, the cash price would be lower but does that mean you'd value the federal tax credit at zero dollars? Also, same spec local to California so no delivery fee:
Model S 75D 5YJSA1E29HF209577 | Tesla
Also, I apologize to OP; the car in this thread is beautiful and I don't want to take away anything from it. I'm just really trying to understand what I'm missing where a new car, similarly (but not exactly) equipped for $77k after rebates ($84k cash price, after referral discount) would be less compelling than this car for $80-83k?
I'm not putting a value of the tax credits at $0. The problem is that the tax credit affects everyone differently. Some people actually will have at least $7500 in tax liability. And some people will barely have a liability. So while you may be able to take full advantage of it, another person may only be able to take advantage of say 4K or 5K. So that leaves them a loss of 2.5-3.5K in savings.
This is why I only look at the straight cash price. It's really misleading on the Tesla website when they say you save an additional $7500, when really you don't. It depends on how much liability you will have AND the fact that it's not like you can take the $7500 and put it directly towards the principle of the car (if you can please someone let me know how and I would do that in a heartbeat)