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2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

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Alright. I need some advice, perhaps from someone who has had a successful buyback of any car from anywhere - where a trade-in was involved. Tesla has agreed to buy back my car (hooray!). However, the check they want to write doesn't include the fact that (in WA State and many [most] other States) I didn't pay the sales tax on the traded-in car value. So they're treating the trade-in of my previous car as just a "downpayment" (i.e. cash) Bottom line. it will cost me several thousand dollars more to buy the same car again.

Has anyone dealt with a buyback in a similar situation and been able to resolve this?
 
Alright. I need some advice, perhaps from someone who has had a successful buyback of any car from anywhere - where a trade-in was involved. Tesla has agreed to buy back my car (hooray!). However, the check they want to write doesn't include the fact that (in WA State and many [most] other States) I didn't pay the sales tax on the traded-in car value. So they're treating the trade-in of my previous car as just a "downpayment" (i.e. cash) Bottom line, it will cost me more to buy the same car again.

Has anyone dealt with a buyback in a similar situation and been able to resolve this?

How much was your trade value? How much sales tax was avoided?
 
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There are four or five fuses inside the inverter along with a bunch of capacitors and coils.. Wonder if any caps blew or fuses fused?
I bet the mechanics at Tesla are told not to even open the inverters and possibly test and fix them.
Just send them back to Tesla..
Separately, I would not doubt that the vibration issue many are experiencing is the result of a bad inverter motor control tearing up the CV joints.. It's hard to believe Tesla engineers are over angling the inner CV joint after creating a very nice suspension... Just a thought!
THANK YOU!!!

I really cant comprehend this being a mechanical engineering issue.... Possible, of course, but as ALL these systems are computer / programming controlled, I HAVE to think their is a mechanical engineer somewhere saying "I did MY job, you software guys need to figure out the pattern / resonance issue and fix this!"......
 
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You can tell them the check needs to be the out the door price for another car, if you are thinking of getting another one...

Of course I already did that. This has been a back and forth. They say they can do absolutely nothing about the sales tax aspect. On the one hand, I can see from their perspective I never "paid" that money to them. On the other hand, it's a little frustrating. I'm more curious as to anyone who has been in this position than anything else.
 
Of course I already did that. This has been a back and forth. They say they can do absolutely nothing about the sales tax aspect. On the one hand, I can see from their perspective I never "paid" that money to them. On the other hand, it's a little frustrating. I'm more curious as to anyone who has been in this position than anything else.
I would think the only possible solution would be if they would treat it as a trade-in on a new Tesla. Assuming of course that you are going to buy another one.
 
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You can tell them the check needs to be the out the door price for another car, if you are thinking of getting another one...

A review of what this state’s lemon law would allow, re restitution, seems an order. IIRC, some states allow you collect even more that the value of the car bought back. Anyone who has been through a lemon law process know?
 
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Of course I already did that. This has been a back and forth. They say they can do absolutely nothing about the sales tax aspect. On the one hand, I can see from their perspective I never "paid" that money to them. On the other hand, it's a little frustrating. I'm more curious as to anyone who has been in this position than anything else.
That's unfortunate. Another reason to never trade a car in to Tesla.
 
Of course I already did that. This has been a back and forth. They say they can do absolutely nothing about the sales tax aspect. On the one hand, I can see from their perspective I never "paid" that money to them. On the other hand, it's a little frustrating. I'm more curious as to anyone who has been in this position than anything else.
First, I do not have the experience of what you are looking for. But, would I be oversimplifying the situation to say yes, taxes are what they are, why not trade your car in on a new one? Am I missing something? You put X amount of miles on your car now with all the problems you had to contend with. What would the current value be on your car as trade in. It should offset the taxes of the new car, like a normal trade in. Unless Tesla would refuse your car's trade in value or they place a low value on it... One would think, yes, for all that you have gone through, they give you a new car.
If your car is not paid in full, things change obviously.. Hope this helps..
 
Try turning off ANC. I have experienced similar sound on freeways and turning it off got rid of the noise.
Yes I thought the same thing when I heard the sound. I have a similar sound but only sometimes and not so bad.
I still can’t explain a couple of things:

1.) Why this noise exists in the first place. It’s awful.
2.) Why it was even louder with the windows down.

since it seems to work fine for some, it might be some hardware problem with yours and, to a lesser extent, mine. maybe a microphone is loose and rubbing or defective in some way.

in any case Tesla enabled the feature in my car before I even had the toggle for it, and with no software update applied at the time (TeslaMate logs everything).

or maybe a hardware problem that caused the noise before the function was even enabled.
I would think the only possible solution would be if they would treat it as a trade-in on a new Tesla. Assuming of course that you are going to buy another one.

good idea. Have them take in the current Tesla as a trade in at full retail price you paid and just give you another one -- no money back, no money paid, no new sale, no sales tax. Just finally delivering what they owe you under the purchase agreement.
 
First, I do not have the experience of what you are looking for. But, would I be oversimplifying the situation to say yes, taxes are what they are, why not trade your car in on a new one? Am I missing something? You put X amount of miles on your car now with all the problems you had to contend with. What would the current value be on your car as trade in. It should offset the taxes of the new car, like a normal trade in. Unless Tesla would refuse your car's trade in value or they place a low value on it... One would think, yes, for all that you have gone through, they give you a new car.
If your car is not paid in full, things change obviously.. Hope this helps..

Because if I just trade the car in it's a whole heck of a lot less (like a lot less), of course. I figured that would be go without saying. 😅
Yes I thought the same thing when I heard the sound. I have a similar sound but only sometimes and not so bad.


since it seems to work fine for some, it might be some hardware problem with yours and, to a lesser extent, mine. maybe a microphone is loose and rubbing or defective in some way.



or maybe a hardware problem that caused the noise before the function was even enabled.


good idea. Have them take in the current Tesla as a trade in at full retail price you paid and just give you another one -- no money back, no money paid, no new sale, no sales tax. Just finally delivering what they owe you under the purchase agreement.

The ARNR is not a hardware problem that causes the noise before the function was enabled. The function was clearly enabled "behind my back" as disabling it (when the option finally presented itself) solved the problem. Well, mostly. I still have an ARNR I can't enable...

As for the buy-back, Tesla will not trade the car in at full value, as it's a buy-back (and yes, I asked).

Just trying to avoid arbitration if at all possible, though I'm so annoyed by the whole situation I might just do it anyway if they don't figure something out.
 
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Of course I already did that. This has been a back and forth. They say they can do absolutely nothing about the sales tax aspect. On the one hand, I can see from their perspective I never "paid" that money to them. On the other hand, it's a little frustrating. I'm more curious as to anyone who has been in this position than anything else.
If they are refunding, say, $100, then argue that they should refund the sales tax on $100. Then they sell you the replacement for $100 and you pay sales tax on $100. To argue that they should refund ($100 - trade-in)*sales tax would imply that they should unwind the trade-in also as there was no trade in if they buy back the car. Then you trade-in again with the purchase of the replacement car.

Keep arguing and you may tire them out.
 
@n2mb_racing , @WilliamG , Update on the yoke buzz.

So Tesla pushed an update to me last night. After update I see my version is still at 11.0, which led me to think it may be a specific targeted update (yes I am special). So here's the good news: the yoke buzz after the software update is much less noticeable now (but still there, especially on the left side of the yoke when you put your ear near it). Now here's the bad news: I started to notice a different humming noise in the car... after much hunting I determined it to be near the top right corner of the passenger side wireless charger. It's a humming + buzz, really. The best way to hear it is to put your ear right below the bottom right corner of the 17" screen, where the sound icon is. What I am not sure is if this is always there before, but masked by the buzzing previously, or it's a new noise introduced by the update. I am leaning towards the latter but not 100% sure. Do you guys or anyone else notice this noise too?
 
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@n2mb_racing , @WilliamG , Update on the yoke buzz.

So Tesla pushed an update to me last night. After update I see my version is still at 11.0, which led me to think it may be a specific targeted update (yes I am special). So here's the good news: the yoke buzz after the software update is much less noticeable now (but still there, especially on the left side of the yoke when you put your ear near it). Now here's the bad news: I started to notice a different humming noise in the car... after much hunting I determined it to be near the top right corner of the passenger side wireless charger. It's a humming + buzz, really. The best way to hear it is to put your ear right below the bottom right corner of the 17" screen, where the sound icon is. What I am not sure is if this is always there before, but masked by the buzzing previously, or it's a new noise introduced by the update. I am leaning towards the latter but not 100% sure. Do you guys or anyone else notice this noise too?

What version number are you on? I have 2022.4.5.1, non FSD beta.

I noticed that the buzz was reduced in a recent update, but I don't remember which one. But, it's still there.

I noticed a similar buzz from the rear view mirror, but I can't hear it over the yoke buzz unless I put my ear close to the mirror.

I'll listen for the other sound.
 
What version number are you on? I have 2022.4.5.1, non FSD beta.

I noticed that the buzz was reduced in a recent update, but I don't remember which one. But, it's still there.

I noticed a similar buzz from the rear view mirror, but I can't hear it over the yoke buzz unless I put my ear close to the mirror.

I'll listen for the other sound.
I am on an earlier version, v11.0 (2021.43.201 72924xxxxxxx). I am thinking Tesla may be trying to localize this issue by issuing a specific update just for me...

Let me know what you find wrt to the other sound... it's just like the yoke buzz, once you hear it, you can not unhear it.

I am really hoping that you don't have it - that would give me hope that this may be a fixable issue via software.

Also, I do NOT have any noise coming from/near the rear view mirror at all.
 
My Tesla is also on 2021.43.201 and it was just updated to that today. Wonder why they are pushing 2021 firmware when my older Model S is running on 2022 firmware.
Damn, looks like I am no longer special... lol.

While at it, can you do me a favor?

1) get inside the S, close the door. press the left/right signal on the yoke, then cancel it. And now see if you can hear a buzz coming from the left side of the yoke.
2) put your ear right below the bottom right corner of the 17" screen, and see if you hear a humming/buzz coming from that region?