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2022 MYP Steering rack Failure. Tesla DENYING warranty coverage due to aftermarket wheels 20x10 with 275 40 20 set up

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My 2022 MYP has aftermarket wheels with 20x10 wheels, 275 40 20 tires. Less than 8K miles so far. As far as I know this is pretty popular set up. Sold by leading aftermarket brand here (I am not convinced the wheels caused the issue. Don't want to say the brand so as not to damage their reputation or sales. It is well known brand and active and helpful with so many wheels specifically made and sold for Tesla)

Been getting grinding kind of noise from both sides at the front. Initially thought it could be the upper /lower control arms issue but this noise is not jut a
squeak but real loud. Had a service appointment at Tesla. As per them, Steering Gear Part#1044831-00-H to be replaced. As per Tesla service advisor, It is NOT covered under warranty since the aftermarket wheels caused the issue. While they couldn't tell me the exact reason, they kept on telling me that "aftermarket wheels which is totally different from OEM caused the issue" MYP OEM Size is 21X9.5" Front, 21X10.5 rear 255/35-21 Front, 275/35-21 Rear.
Total cost with parts and labor - $2.6K
Anyone had similar issues before ?
I agree that technically anything other than OEM can cause the issue and manufacturer can deny warranty. What are my options?

Also just a FYI to folks looking at aftermarket wheels:(
 
I can see that as different weights/offsets can put various loads/torque/strain on the wheels engineering didn't design for. Besides OE wheels are often precisely engineered and design as a total crash package as well. there's little to no reason to go aftermarket when it comes to wheels. Tesla offers great wheels as it is. And this is all aside from efficiency for range.

sorry to hear OP, try sourcing a used rack on ebay.
 
No spacers. Offset should be 40 or 35 same or close to oem offset. Need to check. As per Tesla service “aftermarket wheels on a squared set up” is the cause. They didn’t even talk about offset or ask/discuss any specifics regarding the wheels.
 
No spacers. Offset should be 40 or 35 same or close to oem offset. Need to check. As per Tesla service “aftermarket wheels on a squared set up” is the cause. They didn’t even talk about offset or ask/discuss any specifics regarding the wheels.
I call BS. Tesla has to explain exactly what caused the rack to fail prematurely. If they can't tell you exactly how/why then they can't prove the aftermarket wheels caused the failure.
 
You have 20 x 10's on the front and rear? And correct offset, if that's possible, as mentioned above. I did a couple searches on wider front wheels/tires, here's from just one of several.

Wider Tires: Cons​

  1. Harder Steering: It is true that wider tires offer better traction but they can hurt the steering capability of your car during this process. The wider tire can hinder the turning of your car. The wider tread means the carload is distributed on a larger surface area. Now the steering wheel has to combat more frictional force. As a result, the steering of wider tires can get harder.
  2. Suspension Damage: If you install wider tires than those recommended by the manufacturer, chances are that you would be doing so at the cost of your suspension. To fit in wider tires, the suspension will take the hit and you might lose thousands of dollars in suspension repairs.
 
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I can see that as different weights/offsets can put various loads/torque/strain on the wheels engineering didn't design for. Besides OE wheels are often precisely engineered and design as a total crash package as well. there's little to no reason to go aftermarket when it comes to wheels. Tesla offers great wheels as it is. And this is all aside from efficiency for range.

sorry to hear OP, try sourcing a used rack on ebay.
OEM wheels are made for their cost effectiveness, and minimum requirements. Tesla wheels are HEAVY as hell, especially the 21s
 
I call BS. Tesla has to explain exactly what caused the rack to fail prematurely. If they can't tell you exactly how/why then they can't prove the aftermarket wheels caused the failure.
I think it just has to be reasonable. they don't need to have an engineering analysis. i think it's reasonable to conclude wider/heavier wheels and tires will cause added stress.
 
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OEM wheels are made for their cost effectiveness, and minimum requirements. Tesla wheels are HEAVY as hell, especially the 21s

They're also designed with the total vehicle envelope in mind, including the use of engineering analysis using proprietary data only Tesla has. In other words, the aftermarket can create some kid stuff/kid wheels, but they don't have access to Tesla's proprietary internal data which would be useful if you wanted to make a truly appropriate wheel.

Trust me I've done the aftermarket stuff, I'm a former hardcore track junky. I'm long past that life and believe in full engineering now that only the manufacturer has data on. (for vital stuff such as wheels, brakes etc)

So while a material or a "weight" may be good, the total engineering package must be considered.

If your sole purpose is acceleration times, knock yourself out and get a lighter wheel. but don't be surprised when it doesn't perform in a crash, bends easily from a pothole, causes reduced range, or causes excess wear due to weight and/or extra tire/contact patch/wheel/load/vehicle dynamics.
 
They're also designed with the total vehicle envelope in mind, including the use of engineering analysis using proprietary data only Tesla has. In other words, the aftermarket can create some kid stuff/kid wheels, but they don't have access to Tesla's proprietary internal data which would be useful if you wanted to make a truly appropriate wheel.

Trust me I've done the aftermarket stuff, I'm a former hardcore track junky. I'm long past that life and believe in full engineering now that only the manufacturer has data on. (for vital stuff such as wheels, brakes etc)

So while a material or a "weight" may be good, the total engineering package must be considered.

If your sole purpose is acceleration times, knock yourself out and get a lighter wheel. but don't be surprised when it doesn't perform in a crash, bends easily from a pothole, causes reduced range, or causes excess wear due to weight and/or extra tire/contact patch/wheel/load/vehicle dynamics.
Actually I disagree.
As far as Fact proof here is a pothole example:
91 freeway after rain, crazy pothole, no less than 7 cars, 2 of them Tesla with stocks rims hit before I did, they all flat tires and or/bent rims. I didn't see and was on AP, BAM it felt bad but I kept going and drove by all these cars (2 teslas for a fact had stock rims).
 
Actually I disagree.
As far as Fact proof here is a pothole example:
91 freeway after rain, crazy pothole, no less than 7 cars, 2 of them Tesla with stocks rims hit before I did, they all flat tires and or/bent rims. I didn't see and was on AP, BAM it felt bad but I kept going and drove by all these cars (2 teslas for a fact had stock rims).
outside of a controlled test environment, that doesn't mean much. that's off topic anyway.

lets stay on topic though. big beefy tires/wheels will indeed causes additional stresses on the steering rack. it's not worth it. especially on a car with expensive parts. i've rebuilt several ///BMW ///M Motorsports engines and suspensions including track prep so i have plenty of time in, under, and around cars.
 
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