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2022 MYP Steering rack Failure. Tesla DENYING warranty coverage due to aftermarket wheels 20x10 with 275 40 20 set up
- Thread starter globalmax
- Start date
this happened to me on aftermarket wheels 20x10" +40 offset with factory sized tires 255/40/20. luckily i had a friend of a friend who used to work for Tesla and he pretty much did what you said above. noise is long gone and i've driven at least 5,000 miles since. I didn't hear the noise when i had 21" factory wheels and tires.@globalmax Sorry, we gotta call the respective Tesla Service Center out on this one. We've had multiple chats with drivetrain & test engineers in the Tesla inner circle who've been there over a decade give us insight to grinding, squeaking, bouncy bed noisescoming from the axles (with or without aftermarket wheels). They seem to think the noise comes from dry bearings or stretched out axles, and they have heard noises like this it countless times on completely stock vehicles.
1. This noise is common in many cars, and more so across the entire Tesla lineup. We as owners are just quick to notice it because EV's are quiet, but again this is common in ICE vehicles (it's just not as noticeable because there's engine noise). In our opinion, and those employees mentioned above it is a coincidence that you're hearing this grinding noise after you put on your aftermarket wheels and tires on.
2. Charging ~$2,600 for a steering rack & labor is an easy way for the respective Tesla Service Center to blame the aftermarket (because that's easy to do) and say pay up or be on your way.
3. HERE'S THE FIX (aftermarket wheels or not):
A. Get the vehicle on a lift and remove wheel(s)
B. Remove the 32mm axle nut
C. Lightly/carefully hammer back the axle toward the drive unit until there's about a 15mm gap
D. Lather the bearing hub or axle with anti-seize lubricant. Don't be shy, lather it up!
E. Push the axle back in
F. Tighten to 245nm (straight from the Tesla service manual)
G. Noise fixed.
Tesla’s video was massively overdone. Supposedly the actual amount of movement to play a video game is tiny amount IRL.I was watching a video on that the other night and cringing at the thought of the wheels being cranked back and fourth while sitting still. That is a LOT of force on the rack and rod ends. Especially for the Performance models with 35 series tires..
Yes I know but with a normal car company you could call customer service or a rep for the western region or whatever location you’re in and escalate it and maybe get a goodwill repair.
if they pulled this crap with me, I would be on the phone with a BAR and start there. Then I would sick my attorney after them. However, it sounds like this is not a steering rack issue. It sounds like the CV shaft splines where they go through the hub get dry and crusty and don’t allowed to glide smoothly when you turn .
I bought my car back in March 2021 and then my job changed so I work from home. My car only has 6000 miles on it and I will be trading it in for a polestar 4 as soon as they’re available. As I can’t stand Elon, running his mouth.
sorry, didn’t mean to hijack the thread to vent
greatauror28
Member
As someone who ran 20x10 ET40 on 275 winter tires square setup last winter for 6500 kms, I doubt this issue was caused by the AF tire/wheel setup.
Sure, the tires are 20mm wider than OEM but the wheels are at least 10 lbs lighter per corner - so that negates the difference in weight and stress on the rack while in use. I'm guessing OP has a factory issue with his rack and it was so opportune that his Tesla was diagnosed WITH the AF setup on.
Hopefully you sort this out, OP.
Sure, the tires are 20mm wider than OEM but the wheels are at least 10 lbs lighter per corner - so that negates the difference in weight and stress on the rack while in use. I'm guessing OP has a factory issue with his rack and it was so opportune that his Tesla was diagnosed WITH the AF setup on.
Hopefully you sort this out, OP.
Occhis
Member
This exercise (lawyer + professional witness) will likely cost more than the$2600 repair, so why bother.
TomB985
Member
All of the talk about suing over this is a bit misguided. As posted earlier in this thread, Tesla inserts an arbitration clause into their warranty terms which effectively forces any disputes into binding arbitration. File a suit in civil court and Tesla’s counsel will motion to compel arbitration, which must be done under federal law. There’s no way around that.
That being said, the second part of their arbitration clause gives owners the opportunity to pursue resolution at no cost through NDCS. If you don’t like their decision, you get a second bite at the apple through AAA-sanctioned arbitration.
If I got a warranty denial for something like this(which I think is ridiculous), I’d pursue the NDCS option without a second thought. Worst case, you lose and think harder about arbitration.
That being said, the second part of their arbitration clause gives owners the opportunity to pursue resolution at no cost through NDCS. If you don’t like their decision, you get a second bite at the apple through AAA-sanctioned arbitration.
If I got a warranty denial for something like this(which I think is ridiculous), I’d pursue the NDCS option without a second thought. Worst case, you lose and think harder about arbitration.
I do think if you put 275's up front, you would be running a much larger tire on an already tight space... T-Sportline has packages that are running no larger than 255 on the front to match the manufacturer width. If you were rubbing and making the steering rack push into fenders as well as the larger contact patch, that would certainly put the rack under strain. I am new to Tesla ownership but have owned lifted trucks/jeeps for years and dealt with steering rack issues from improperly sized tires or other factors from the mods. (specifically my Tacoma with 33's really didn't like the factory steering rack or the NAPA replacements... I had to go to an aftermarket heavier duty unit to keep it from failing every couple of years).
To agree with E46MYLR, how are the fender liners looking?
Best of luck! I'm about to go to an overlanding setup on my 22MYP - I'll post photos when complete.
To agree with E46MYLR, how are the fender liners looking?
Best of luck! I'm about to go to an overlanding setup on my 22MYP - I'll post photos when complete.
amoney805
Member
My 2022 MYP has aftermarket wheels with 20x10 wheels, 275 40 20 tires. Less than 8K miles so far. As far as I know this is pretty popular set up. Sold by leading aftermarket brand here (I am not convinced the wheels caused the issue. Don't want to say the brand so as not to damage their reputation or sales. It is well known brand and active and helpful with so many wheels specifically made and sold for Tesla)
Been getting grinding kind of noise from both sides at the front. Initially thought it could be the upper /lower control arms issue but this noise is not jut a
squeak but real loud. Had a service appointment at Tesla. As per them, Steering Gear Part#1044831-00-H to be replaced. As per Tesla service advisor, It is NOT covered under warranty since the aftermarket wheels caused the issue. While they couldn't tell me the exact reason, they kept on telling me that "aftermarket wheels which is totally different from OEM caused the issue" MYP OEM Size is 21X9.5" Front, 21X10.5 rear 255/35-21 Front, 275/35-21 Rear.
Total cost with parts and labor - $2.6K
Anyone had similar issues before ?
I agree that technically anything other than OEM can cause the issue and manufacturer can deny warranty. What are my options?
Also just a FYI to folks looking at aftermarket wheels
What was the final resolution?
As an attorney, I can tell you that a lawsuit against Tesla on this issue will run you well over $5000 in legal fees and court costs. Why? Because, Tesla has deep pockets and will hire the biggest law firm to paper your lawyer to death with endless Motion to Dismiss motions, thereby running up your legal fees.
That's being said, TSportline's advice is probably the simplest solution for you right now. If you still hear the noise, then you'll have to decide its worth paying Tesla for the "repairs."
That might not work because the SC he took it too might have left notes about the issue in their system.
Wonder if your steering rack absorbed it rather than sacrifice the wheel
whisperingshad
Active Member
LOL. not how it works really, would have thought if the timeline was there but it wasntWonder if your steering rack absorbed it rather than sacrifice the wheel
@globalmax Sorry, we gotta call the respective Tesla Service Center out on this one. We've had multiple chats with drivetrain & test engineers in the Tesla inner circle who've been there over a decade give us insight to grinding, squeaking, bouncy bed noises
coming from the axles (with or without aftermarket wheels). They seem to think the noise comes from dry bearings or stretched out axles, and they have heard noises like this it countless times on completely stock vehicles.1. This noise is common in many cars, and more so across the entire Tesla lineup. We as Tesla owners are just quick to notice it because EV's are quiet, but again this is common in ICE vehicles (it's just not as noticeable because there's engine noise). In our opinion, and those employees mentioned above it is a coincidence that you're hearing this grinding noise after you put on your aftermarket wheels and tires on.
2. Charging ~$2,600 for a steering rack & labor is an easy way for the respective Tesla Service Center to blame the aftermarket (because that's easy to do) and say pay up or be on your way.
3. HERE'S THE FIX (aftermarket wheels or not):
A. Get the vehicle on a lift and remove wheel(s)
B. Remove the 32mm axle nut
C. Lightly/carefully hammer back the axle toward the drive unit until there's about a 15mm gap
D. Lather the bearing hub or axle with anti-seize lubricant. Don't be shy, lather it up!
E. Push the axle back in
F. Tighten to 245nm (straight from the Tesla service manual
)G. Noise fixed
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