23 MYP Right Rear Blinker Not Working

[JaeTheDev]

Just as the title says, the right rear blinker is not working. All other blinkers, including the repeater and front right side are working. I tested the rear taillight using the other side and works perfectly. I have a service call out to Tesla, but thought I’d see if anyone has some suggestions or whatnot to try to fix, or what might be the cause.

Looking forward to hearing some opinions.

NOTE… I tried the scroll wheel reset. Obviously didn’t help.

 

[Dantley]

I rebooted my MYLR the other day due to some quirky behavior. For me, when I activated AutoPilot my windshield wipers came on. Also, the windshield washer fluid wouldn't spray even though the reservoir was full. I rebooted the car at my next stop and all has been good since. So, try rebooting. That may work and save you a trip to the Service Center.

 

[JaeTheDev]

I rebooted my MYLR the other day due to some quirky behavior. For me, when I activated AutoPilot my windshield wipers came on. Also, the windshield washer fluid wouldn't spray even though the reservoir was full. I rebooted the car at my next stop and all has been good since. So, try rebooting. That may work and save you a trip to the Service Center.

By rebooting, you talking about the scroll when reset?

 

[Tronguy]

There's (at least) three different kinds of reboots:

• Dual scroll-wheel reboot. Hold both scroll wheels down until (a) the screen goes black and, after a while, the "T" symbol appears. Let go the scroll wheels. This has been known to clear up some kinds of problems.
• Power down reset. Get a book that you like to read. Close the doors. Feet off the pedals. Under the Safety screen, there's a "Power Down" button. Hit it. After a bit, everything powers down: Fans, interior lights, you name it. Read the book, let roughly five minutes go by. Touch the brake pedal; the car comes back to life.
• Real power removal. Do this only if you're comfortable with partly disassembling the car, a 10 mm socket and wrench are within your grasp and you know how to use them, and you've got Basic Auto Repair skills. Not for the person who, if they've got an ICE, doesn't know or care to learn how to change their own oil.
  • Open the frunk and leave it open.
  • Turn off the car from that Power Down Reset, above. Leave the driver's side door open. Open up the passenger's side rear door and leave it open.
  • In the front, remove the plastic cover in between the window and the actual frunk. It pops loose. You'll see the car's 12V battery in there.
  • Using your handy 10 mm socket, loosen the positive battery terminal and remove it. Put something (a rag, etc.) on the terminal so that cable there doesn't go sparking around.
  • Go in the passenger's door. Fasten all the rear seat seat belts unless you enjoy fishing them out from under the seat later. Using your hands, lift the front edge of the rear seat straight up; it'll pop loose. Don't break anything.
  • Under the seat you'll see a mongo electrical connector with a cable. There's a latch. Release the latch and you can lift the cable straight up. When you do, you'll hear a contactor go, "Clunk!". Move the cable out of the way. Congratulations, you have really powered off the car.
  • Find that book from the power down reset. Read a chapter, taking five minutes or so for all the voltage, everywhere, to discharge.
  • Put the cable back on, making sure to latch the latch. You'll hear a clunk
  • Put the seat back where it came from: It was held on with clips, make sure that they all snap back into place. Be careful and don't break anything.
  • Put the 12V cable back on the battery and tighten the nut with the 10 mm socket and wrench.
  • Put the frunk cover back on, being careful not to break any of the snaps.
  • Congratulations: You've turned the computer with four wheels off, then back on again.

To tell the truth: It's a new car. Infant mortality (i.e., things that break right off) are a Thing. It's why new cars have new car warranties. If the first two resets, which are easy to do and are more-or-less soft resets don't do the job, stop right there and wait for the Tesla tech to come and take a look. My guess: Loose cable, bad light bulb, bad cable, stuff like that. But it could be weirder: Actually broken computer somewhere, bent pin, you get the idea. This is why techies get trained, to catch the corner cases. And, frankly, I've never heard on these forums a problem like this before. I'm guessing bad hardware.

 

[JaeTheDev]

There's (at least) three different kinds of reboots:

• Dual scroll-wheel reboot. Hold both scroll wheels down until (a) the screen goes black and, after a while, the "T" symbol appears. Let go the scroll wheels. This has been known to clear up some kinds of problems.
• Power down reset. Get a book that you like to read. Close the doors. Feet off the pedals. Under the Safety screen, there's a "Power Down" button. Hit it. After a bit, everything powers down: Fans, interior lights, you name it. Read the book, let roughly five minutes go by. Touch the brake pedal; the car comes back to life.
• Realpower removal. Do this only if you're comfortable with partly disassembling the car, a 10 mm socket and wrench are within your grasp and you know how to use them, and you've got Basic Auto Repair skills. Not for the person who, if they've got an ICE, doesn't know or care to learn how to change their own oil.
  • Open the frunk and leave it open.
  • Turn off the car from that Power Down Reset, above. Leave the driver's side door open. Open up the passenger's side rear door and leave it open.
  • In the front, remove the plastic cover in between the window and the actual frunk. It pops loose. You'll see the car's 12V battery in there.
  • Using your handy 10 mm socket, loosen the positive battery terminal and remove it. Put something (a rag, etc.) on the terminal so that cable there doesn't go sparking around.
  • Go in the passenger's door. Fasten all the rear seat seat belts unless you enjoy fishing them out from under the seat later. Using your hands, lift the front edge of the rear seat straight up; it'll pop loose. Don't break anything.
  • Under the seat you'll see a mongo electrical connector with a cable. There's a latch. Release the latch and you can lift the cable straight up. When you do, you'll hear a contactor go, "Clunk!". Move the cable out of the way. Congratulations, you have really powered off the car.
  • Find that book from the power down reset. Read a chapter, taking five minutes or so for all the voltage, everywhere, to discharge.
  • Put the cable back on, making sure to latch the latch. You'll hear a clunk
  • Put the seat back where it came from: It was held on with clips, make sure that they all snap back into place. Be careful and don't break anything.
  • Put the 12V cable back on the battery and tighten the nut with the 10 mm socket and wrench.
  • Put the frunk cover back on, being careful not to break any of the snaps.
  • Congratulations: You've turned the computer with four wheels off, then back on again.

To tell the truth: It's a new car. Infant mortality (i.e., things that break right off) are a Thing. It's why new cars have new car warranties. If the first two resets, which are easy to do and are more-or-less soft resets don't do the job, stop right there and wait for the Tesla tech to come and take a look. My guess: Loose cable, bad light bulb, bad cable, stuff like that. But it could be weirder: Actually broken computer somewhere, bent pin, you get the idea. This is why techies get trained, to catch the corner cases. And, frankly, I've never heard on these forums a problem like this before. I'm guessing bad hardware.

Thanks for the info! Ill try the 2nd reset and wait for Tesla. Im sure they will know whats up in a sec after peaking at it. Im just trying to save time and a trip. LOL

Im guessing a bent pin, bad wire, etc. Reason being, as I stated prior, I tested with another taillight that I know works, and it still didnt light up. Put the said taillight back and it works on the other side. I also tested the taillight that wasnt lighting up and it works. That tells me its not the light itself or bulb. Not a loose cable either. I made sure of that.

 

[Dantley]

I did the dual scroll wheel reset to curve my issues.

 

[JaeTheDev]

Good news!

Looks like letting the vehicle sleep for the past few hours did the trick. Blinker is back to normal. Must have been having a moment eariier! LMAO.

Thanks all, and if anyone Google's and find this in the future, let the car sleep for a bit. Might do the trick!

 

[Tronguy]

Good news!

Looks like letting the vehicle sleep for the past few hours did the trick. Blinker is back to normal. Must have been having a moment eariier! LMAO.

Thanks all, and if anyone Google's and find this in the future, let the car sleep for a bit. Might do the trick!

Hm. Foist it woiks, then it doesn't woik.

If your, "let is sleep" trip works for all time, fine. But there is this horrible thing called an, "intermittent". As a random example, one can have a cable with a number of crimp-on connectors, but one of them didn't get crimped. Metal-to-metal contact, but loose, means that eventually corrosion sneaks up on such a thing. And I'm not talking gobs of white stuff, here, just normal O2 vs. $Random_Metal. Then, after it's gone and done an open on you, Something Gets Disturbed a bit and knocks a bit of corrosion off and, ta-da! It works again. For a while.

One day, at work, I got a box of fifty or so cable harnesses designated as faulty by the factory and sent to us for our perusal. The wires were very teeny tiny. Another group took X-rays of some of the connectors. The X-rays looked... funny. I found the appropriate tool and disassembled the connectors, hauled out a 50X microscope, and discovered that Every Single Connector Had At Least One Pin That Was Crimped On The Insulation, Not The Metal.

The report got sent to a lot of places, complete with wonderful pictures. And the sub-sub-sub contractor who had the job of doing the crimping.. Well, never did find out if they got yelled at for improper crimping. And the sub-sub contractor wouldn't tell us whose crimping/assembly tool they were using, either: It was a "trade secret". Ha.

We dropped those clowns.

 

[JaeTheDev]

Hm. Foist it woiks, then it doesn't woik.

If your, "let is sleep" trip works for all time, fine. But there is this horrible thing called an, "intermittent". As a random example, one can have a cable with a number of crimp-on connectors, but one of them didn't get crimped. Metal-to-metal contact, but loose, means that eventually corrosion sneaks up on such a thing. And I'm not talking gobs of white stuff, here, just normal O2 vs. $Random_Metal. Then, after it's gone and done an open on you, Something Gets Disturbed a bit and knocks a bit of corrosion off and, ta-da! It works again. For a while.

One day, at work, I got a box of fifty or so cable harnesses designated as faulty by the factory and sent to us for our perusal. The wires were very teeny tiny. Another group took X-rays of some of the connectors. The X-rays looked... funny. I found the appropriate tool and disassembled the connectors, hauled out a 50X microscope, and discovered that Every Single Connector Had At Least One Pin That Was Crimped On The Insulation, Not The Metal.

The report got sent to a lot of places, complete with wonderful pictures. And the sub-sub-sub contractor who had the job of doing the crimping.. Well, never did find out if they got yelled at for improper crimping. And the sub-sub contractor wouldn't tell us whose crimping/assembly tool they were using, either: It was a "trade secret". Ha.

We dropped those clowns.

if it acts up again, I’ll be sure to get it looked at but sadly, if things are working as intended, Tesla won’t even bother with it. That’s the “Tesla way”. I’m happy it’s working though and I’m happy you’re employment is so diligent. Nice finds!

 

[jjrandorin]

if it acts up again, I’ll be sure to get it looked at but sadly, if things are working as intended, Tesla won’t even bother with it. That’s the “Tesla way”. I’m happy it’s working though and I’m happy you’re employment is so diligent. Nice finds!

As much aftermarket stuff as it seems like you install (and remove) did you ever install aftermarket taillights? I am guessing the answer to this is "yes" but I dont know.

 

[JaeTheDev]

As much aftermarket stuff as it seems like you install (and remove) did you ever install aftermarket taillights? I am guessing the answer to this is "yes" but I dont know.

Thats one thing I have not done... Yet! HAHA!

It appears the issue was a "corrupt" update which my MYP did update, and I didnt even think of as it was earlier in the day. Thats what Tesla wrote this morning (mind you its 7am and thats the earliest Ive seen them respond in my 4 years of ownership. Ill take it though). Seems its uncommon, but does happen. Sleeping usually does the trick. By that I mean, let the car sleep, as well as the ones self... and check back the next morning. Searching the net a bit yielded the same issues but mostly on the S.

Seems to be all set now.