FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
wht price are you suggesting??. just ran the list again and cheapest 75D HW2 starts at 95.
As many have already suggested ... $75K is about right based on the current market. Data is your friend
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wht price are you suggesting??. just ran the list again and cheapest 75D HW2 starts at 95.
No, the are 100 S "D"'s listed in inventory but that list is only a partial list as Tesla doesn't list the full inventory so as not to delute value. I said since your car is a fairly stripped car that the people interested in one like that more than likely want to save money, everyone wants something nicer but half the country is in the south and don't nessasarily need a "D" It's still priced higher than you can buy a new inventory 75D for after all is said and done. You are getting the $7500 tax credit and you still want over purchase price. Good luck selling it I just think it's not fair to try to overcharge someone as it's clearly overpricedI put it down to $80k.
I will disagree that people are looking only for stripped car and dont care about all wheel drive. There will be no 100D or P100D if people are only looking for stripped down cars. Most of the people who are buying tesla want atleast EAP. The inventory has only 3 75D showing up. You can get stripped down 60 but adding EAP + upgrade to 75 cost add 10k.
My arithmetic* says you are now offering a $300 discount to buy your used car instead of a new, custom order from Tesla with similar options minus the free Supercharging and perhaps the referral discount if still available. And fwiw, you are in the same boat as Tesla itself: the S60 or D60 is a much better value than the corresponding 75, unless you must have the extra 40 miles of range today.I put it down to $80k.
Not going to add to the price discussion (you are too high), but I always laugh when people say this. All you need to do is adjust your withholding/quarterly payments and you can "get" your tax credit as soon as you wish.I guess best price would be around 82k if someone dont want to wait for another 16 months to get tax credit.
Exactly.All you need to do is adjust your withholding/quarterly payments and you can "get" your tax credit as soon as you wish.
Selling my 27 days old 2016 (facelift version) Model S 75D (all-wheel drive) with the the new, version 2.0 auto pilot hardware, software. Only 200 miles and in nearly new condition. No issues with the car, it drives great.
I have 3 kids and growing family so switching over to Model X to fit my needs.
Looks & smells like new. Looking to get $85,000. PM if you are interested.
This wreaks of a bad deal, really just looks like you're trying to flip your car and profit some. Best of luck!
Most states don't do the $2,500 cali rebate, & he's not here anyway. Similarly, the Fed's $7,500 can't go the 2nd purchaser after new. And original seller might as well not claim it because if you don't keep the car 2 years, you loose the tax credit.Am I missing something... I just checked online and that car specs out at new at $84,500.00, plus there are tax credits totaling 10K ...
Most states don't do the $2,500 cali rebate, & he's not here anyway. Similarly, the Fed's $7,500 can't go the 2nd purchaser after new. And original seller might as well not claim it because if you don't keep the car 2 years, you loose the tax credit.
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yes - i overgeneralized - under 2yrs is a rebuttable presumption - just don't let the tax court judge discover you have a buyer lined up, even before you take deliveryI didn't know that. Do you know where that is shown for Federal?
-Just looked it up. There is no minimum holding time for Federal. There is for CA.
Federal just states you can't buy the car with the intention of resale. You can resell it after a short time and still get the credit if you have a reason (e.g. loss of job, suspension sucks, etc).
This is not true (and there are ~1000 other threads on TMC about this so let's not turn this into another). What you "owe by the end of the year" is irrelevant - what matters is that your tax (after other credits) is at least $7500.yes - i overgeneralized - under 2yrs is a rebuttable presumption - just don't let the tax court judge discover you have a buyer lined up, even before you take delivery
plus - the full $7,500 phase out begins @ 200k units sold (i better say "US sales" or you'll catch me over generalizing again) - + if you fall under alt min tax rules, you don't get it either - and you don't get it if AGI (married example) is ~ > $300k. Plus unless you actually owe $7,500 by the end of the tax year, you don't get the full amount. No carryover. Exception being if it's registered as a business car
iow - it's not w/out a few hurdles
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ok we won't turn it into anorher thread. And if you believe one who has already paid their tax debt via weekly payrole deductions or quarterly payments - and still get a credit, though you owe nothing - great. remember ... no turning the threadThis is not true (and there are ~1000 other threads on TMC about this so let's not turn this into another). What you "owe by the end of the year" is irrelevant - what matters is that your tax (after other credits) is at least $7500.
Since I am a CPA and have taken this tax credit multiple times over the years, yes. Please don't comment on areas you don't understand.ok we won't turn it into anorher thread. And if you believe one who has already paid their tax debt via weekly payrole deductions or quarterly payments - and still get a credit, though you owe nothing - great. remember ... no turning the thread
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Right - what i won't comment on is the number of diplima mill cpa's that get successfully sued for neglegent advice. Then they have to hire attorneys to help them understand the substantive difference between a refundable & non-refundable credit. and no i'm not going to do a "wave my 'credential' or wave my anecdotal 'multiple times' evidence" pissing contest - which neither proves or disproves anything.Since I am a CPA and have taken this tax credit multiple times over the years, yes. Please don't comment on areas you don't understand.