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Sold 27 day old 2016 Model S 75D AP HW2–Only 200 miles- $85k

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It's your car eurek. Price it however your like. Just don't be surprised if you need to lower the price to make a sale. The market can do basic math and can subtract $7,500 easily.
Price being equal, everyone would buy from a dealer way before buying from a stranger. Without a price incentive, no one is buying off this site or Ebay.
 
I put it down to $80k.
I will disagree that people are looking only for stripped car and dont care about all wheel drive. There will be no 100D or P100D if people are only looking for stripped down cars. Most of the people who are buying tesla want atleast EAP. The inventory has only 3 75D showing up. You can get stripped down 60 but adding EAP + upgrade to 75 cost add 10k.
No, the are 100 S "D"'s listed in inventory but that list is only a partial list as Tesla doesn't list the full inventory so as not to delute value. I said since your car is a fairly stripped car that the people interested in one like that more than likely want to save money, everyone wants something nicer but half the country is in the south and don't nessasarily need a "D" It's still priced higher than you can buy a new inventory 75D for after all is said and done. You are getting the $7500 tax credit and you still want over purchase price. Good luck selling it I just think it's not fair to try to overcharge someone as it's clearly overpriced
 
You may sell it on eBay if those bidders are paying sellers and not just deadbeats. If it gets anywhere close to $70k grab it and run you will be ahead of where you will be on it in a couple months. I own an auto dealership But am not sure about eBay. With Tesla it seems that new is usually the best option to purchase with the tax credits and the fact that after a year the depreciation slows down a bit. The only other real used deal is from the new buyer who has buyer remorse and has to loose $10-15k over the $7500 credit to sell a couple month old car.
 
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I put it down to $80k.
My arithmetic* says you are now offering a $300 discount to buy your used car instead of a new, custom order from Tesla with similar options minus the free Supercharging and perhaps the referral discount if still available. And fwiw, you are in the same boat as Tesla itself: the S60 or D60 is a much better value than the corresponding 75, unless you must have the extra 40 miles of range today.

And honestly ? If I was in the market for this model, I would presume you are not stupid and then conclude that you hoped for a sucker to take advantage of. That elevates the risk of buying from you to a level I would avoid unless the discount was worth the worry, extra due diligence and time.

In your shoes, if you really do intend to buy an X model, I would try and negotiate a swap with Tesla. If they agree to take your car back it might save you the sales tax which is probably half of your expected losses.

*After federal tax credit for the new car
 
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Selling my 27 days old 2016 (facelift version) Model S 75D (all-wheel drive) with the the new, version 2.0 auto pilot hardware, software. Only 200 miles and in nearly new condition. No issues with the car, it drives great.

I have 3 kids and growing family so switching over to Model X to fit my needs.
Looks & smells like new. Looking to get $85,000. PM if you are interested.

Well, the market has spoken and the car did not sell at $70K ... we tried to help you price the car realistically :cool:

2016 Tesla Model S

upload_2017-2-2_18-1-7.png
 
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Am I missing something... I just checked online and that car specs out at new at $84,500.00, plus there are tax credits totaling 10K ...
Most states don't do the $2,500 cali rebate, & he's not here anyway. Similarly, the Fed's $7,500 can't go the 2nd purchaser after new. And original seller might as well not claim it because if you don't keep the car 2 years, you loose the tax credit.
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Most states don't do the $2,500 cali rebate, & he's not here anyway. Similarly, the Fed's $7,500 can't go the 2nd purchaser after new. And original seller might as well not claim it because if you don't keep the car 2 years, you loose the tax credit.
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You lose the Federal tax credit if you don't own for two years?
I didn't know that. Do you know where that is shown for Federal?

-Just looked it up. There is no minimum holding time for Federal. There is for CA.
Federal just states you can't buy the car with the intention of resale. You can resell it after a short time and still get the credit if you have a reason (e.g. loss of job, suspension sucks, etc).
 
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I didn't know that. Do you know where that is shown for Federal?

-Just looked it up. There is no minimum holding time for Federal. There is for CA.
Federal just states you can't buy the car with the intention of resale. You can resell it after a short time and still get the credit if you have a reason (e.g. loss of job, suspension sucks, etc).
yes - i overgeneralized - under 2yrs is a rebuttable presumption - just don't let the tax court judge discover you have a buyer lined up, even before you take delivery
;)
plus - the full $7,500 phase out begins @ 200k units sold (i better say "US sales" or you'll catch me over generalizing again) - + if you fall under alt min tax rules, you don't get it either - and you don't get it if AGI (married example) is ~ > $300k. Plus unless you actually owe $7,500 by the end of the tax year, you don't get the full amount. No carryover. Exception being if it's registered as a business car
iow - it's not w/out a few hurdles
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yes - i overgeneralized - under 2yrs is a rebuttable presumption - just don't let the tax court judge discover you have a buyer lined up, even before you take delivery
;)
plus - the full $7,500 phase out begins @ 200k units sold (i better say "US sales" or you'll catch me over generalizing again) - + if you fall under alt min tax rules, you don't get it either - and you don't get it if AGI (married example) is ~ > $300k. Plus unless you actually owe $7,500 by the end of the tax year, you don't get the full amount. No carryover. Exception being if it's registered as a business car
iow - it's not w/out a few hurdles
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This is not true (and there are ~1000 other threads on TMC about this so let's not turn this into another). What you "owe by the end of the year" is irrelevant - what matters is that your tax (after other credits) is at least $7500.
 
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This is not true (and there are ~1000 other threads on TMC about this so let's not turn this into another). What you "owe by the end of the year" is irrelevant - what matters is that your tax (after other credits) is at least $7500.
ok we won't turn it into anorher thread. And if you believe one who has already paid their tax debt via weekly payrole deductions or quarterly payments - and still get a credit, though you owe nothing - great. remember ... no turning the thread
;)
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ok we won't turn it into anorher thread. And if you believe one who has already paid their tax debt via weekly payrole deductions or quarterly payments - and still get a credit, though you owe nothing - great. remember ... no turning the thread
;)
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Since I am a CPA and have taken this tax credit multiple times over the years, yes. Please don't comment on areas you don't understand.
 
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Since I am a CPA and have taken this tax credit multiple times over the years, yes. Please don't comment on areas you don't understand.
Right - what i won't comment on is the number of diplima mill cpa's that get successfully sued for neglegent advice. Then they have to hire attorneys to help them understand the substantive difference between a refundable & non-refundable credit. and no i'm not going to do a "wave my 'credential' or wave my anecdotal 'multiple times' evidence" pissing contest - which neither proves or disproves anything.
What i "don't understand" is why people presume their different 'view' automatically means it must be because 'they're wrong'. Believe whatever you want & have a great day
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