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Discussion in 'Model S' started by artsci, May 28, 2017.
Hopefully, the same person who will fix the left-right reversal of the image from the front camera.
thank you for your Work.
im also interested.
I'm interested in this as well! The Model S is such a wide car and after about 3 years I'm still scared that I'm going to curb the wheels.
My #1 complaint with the Model S is lack of a 360 camera. I drive in urban settings a lot with curbs and pillars everywhere and I'm always sweating bullets.
A front camera would at least let me see gauge the curb better.
It's still possible to buy curb feelers!! Best way to turn your futuristic car into a vintage classic!
Yes, making it look like a 1953 Buick
Or I'd prefer a drone that launches from the car to offer a nice 360 degree view from up above
Today's test of V2 on my car was successful. I now need two volunteers with an AP cars to do test installations on their cars. I can help talk through the install. If those installations are successful, production will begin. If you're willing to volunteer please PM me. The switches will be free for the volunteers.
Akikiki and HankLoydRight are our volunteers. As the have already has done installations, they both know the ropes. I'll be getting production estimates ASAP, which will be essential to pricing. Once we have pricing I'll set up an order system with PayPal.
Congrats! Would like to set this up in our car. Do you have a video of it in operation?
hip hip hooray! been a long wait. thanks for the effort and progress. here hopping for a sucessful trial install.
My two cents,
For those of you that are interested but a little DIY-shy, this is not going to be really really difficult, just a little difficult but do-able. You can break this down into two primary parts (the way I describe all of this). The first part can be installed and operated independent of the second part. Most people will benefit and be satisfied with part 1. Part 1 will operate the front cam and switch to the rear camera view but will use a remote control device about half the size of a fob. You can hang this on a lanyard from the shift lever.
Part 2 is as hard as Part 1, but the description is easier to explain than explaining Part 1. Part 1 involves multiple parts/components. Part 2 is tapping into a wire and running a wire to the front of the car. Part 2 is tapping into and running a wire/lead from the wiring harness under the passenger side carpet on a 2013/2014-ish. (We are not sure what year the change occurred that removed the harness we use for the 2013, so we guess it was in 2015 for sake of argument. OR on a 2016/2017/2018 its tapping into the reverse backup light in the liftgate and running a wire/lead across/in the liftgate, through the black boot between the liftgate and body, and forward to the front of the car to the driver side kickpad and plugging it into the switch. Anyone that's installed the cable for the rear dashcam knows the effort to get a wire through the boot and routing it forward.
Part of the effort is the tricks involved with removing the plastic trim at the door sill to pull the kickpad out and putting it back at the end. whew, always a lot of twisting, squeezing and holding one's tongue in front of small children.
Here's a summary of the effort for what I call Part 1 Time to do it is about 1 hour by my guess.
Part 1 would consists mostly of: not necessarily in this order
a) glue the camera to the grill,
b) threading the front cable from the grill up under the inside of the frunk/under the inside of the fender,
c) thread the front cable under the weatherstrip at the driver door,
d) pull the trapezoid-ish shaped cover off the end of the dash (route for front cable)
e) pulling the left door sill trim up and out of the way,
f) pulling the left side kickpad out,
g) plugging the front cable into the switch connector marked front,
h) locate the rear camera cable with the blue connector (it connects to a cable coming from the center console,
i) unplugging the rear camera cable and plugging it into the front camera kit switch connector marked rear,
j) plug the cable from the center console into the front cam switch connector marked console,
k) attaching the procured OBD Male connector/cable (pigtail) that provides power and ground to the green removable connector on the switch,
l) program the remote to the front switch and test the camera view swaps,
m) tuck everything under the dash, behind the kickpad, and replace the kickpad, door sill trim and dash end cover.
All this above is subject to adjustment if artsci says so... He's the boss.
I can also add a few comments I've posted before:
I have a Dec 2014 P85D and the reverse light harness is still found in the passenger footwell, although the wire you need to tap has changed colors over the years. Once you remove the rocker panel and all necessary trim to get to the harness and tap the appropriate wire, run the wire up the right side of the of the "trapezoidal" area in the door jam. Now go get a wire hanger or any long rigid wire or dowel to use as a snake, and tape the wire to the snake. You'll see a hollow round metal tube/tunnel that runs the width of the entire dash. Throw the dowel/hanger down this tube to reach the other side. Pull it through and attach this wire to the switch. Replace all passenger side trim.
Instead of glue on the front bumper for the camera, I've used these for both cars I installed the kit in:
To tap power from OBDII, I use this, makes it very easy:
Then to connect power to the switch, I add in an easy disconnect in case I have to remove the switch. You can use something like these (I prefer the second product below). These are great for attaching all kinds of low voltage accessories in the car, and allow easy connect/disconnect.
What's also nice about using these connectors is you can tap several off the one OBDII power leads to power dashcams, radar detectors, and other in-car accessories.
I'll talk to @artsci about putting together a kit with these things in it already assembled.
Hank, this is so weird, (great minds, huh), I too use the same connectors and pigtails for connections on the car. These are great for testing and restoring to original configurations. I use the small ones when I make up the Tesla OEM connector that plugs into the power source behind the speaker grill for wiring 12v dashcams.
And I use these Y Splitter Quick Connect to divide at the source and add other small wattage components.
I wire them in so I can add a small single channel remote control to turn power on and off without unplugging the device.
Nice! I like that Y splitter.
Last week I went to install a different dash-cam in my wife's car (the old one died). I open up the console, and much to my surprise, I had used those EL connectors (I totally forgot that I had!). So it was just so easy to put a new EL connector on the new dashcam cable and plug it in.
There is actually an "official" connector on the side of the console that Tesla recommends for obtaining power of added accessories.
That's switched. The OBDII port is unswitched.
Thanks. This is good info. Even switched, its another excellent option available to owners without getting into other risky areas.
I had heard of this before. But when I opened the side of the console on my '17, it was not there. I see now that maybe it is there and its attached on the inside of the frame and no in clear view. I have to revisit it again on mine. Now I know what to look for.
Yes, when you pop the side panel off, the connector is not really visible.
Well, I went out and pulled the right side console panels off. Done it before, so knew how. The connector is there on my '17, but its in use unlike earlier year cars. I can probably tap into power there (after testing to be sure) but a little more difficult since its plugged into something behind the console frame and doesn't move out.
That's the way it is on all refreshed cars.