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2nd run of camera switch that show a front image on the touch screen

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Do it ! Its not been posted on TM's forum either. Something is preventing me from post a new thread there, so I can't.
Anyone that is an owner (duh) and can’t post to the Tesla forum, send a note to Tesla from your contact page on My Tesla. The spam filter is crazy there. You have to use your official Tesla email address and they will ‘adjust it’. I had the same issue trying to post on the Remote S support thread for months before I sent them a note.
 
So if we connect into the RJ45, what cables would no longer be necessary?

P.S. About to order but trying to figure total cost and parts and hoping to save somewhere. What does it look like for a total?

It’s an automotive connector, not RJ45, but it has GND, +12V, and several CAN buses on it.

With my proposed solution, you would get all 3 non-camera wires from here (+12V, GND, reverse). So all that is left is to plug in the camera cables.
 
So if we connect into the RJ45, what cables would no longer be necessary?

You would still need all the same camera cables from Tesla. That part hasn't changed.

The part appleguru is proposing is using a diag CANBUS port to detect when the car goes into Reverse, to show the rear camera on the touchscreen.

Without it, older cars need to run a wire to the pax footwell to tap into a connector there, or in newer cars, run a wire to the back hatch, which is more complicated and time consuming (but not hard). Or don't run any Reverse detection wires and use the remote or Homelink to toggle between the front and rear cameras.
 
I am feeling bad about being one of those guys who was "go-fer-it" and now have to back off. I even bought the camera in advance. Hope my single action is not the cause of the whole project failing.

You had a good reason for dropping out. Your health takes absolute priority over this project. I'm sad to hear about your medical issues, but I do wish you the best medical care and emotional support for your situation.
 
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So... would that make the switch setup moot?

No, they are two separate devices.

The camera switch switches two cameras (front and rear) into one feed into the touchscreen.

The device appleguru is proposing simply taps the CANBUS to detect when to send a signal to the camera switch to toggle between front and rear cameras. Switching is done via wireless remote, homelink button, or hard wired connection to the reverse signal lead. And now via CANBUS signals.
 
No, it would not make the switch setup moot.
Let me see if I can consolidate and summarize all of this.
The switch needs to video cable inputs and has one output. The output goes to the center console/touchscreen.
One of the inputs, is from the rear and until it was plugged into the switch, it was connected to the cable that goes to the touchscreen.
The third is actually the new "end", and the owner installs this cable, it runs to the front of the car, where you plug the new camera in and mount the camera. One, two three.

appleguru is referring to the four contact green connector that actually has three wires going to it. 12V positive, ground, and the (third) the backup light/reverse signal wire.
1) 12V positive can come from the OBD-II port that is in the left rear corner of the dash on the driver side. Its a switched power source, so when the the car shuts down, power stops.
2) Grd, Ground, is can also come from the OBD-II port.
3) backup light/reverse signal wire. It too is a 12V positive input to the switch. Only the power is switched on to it when you put the car in reverse. So when a wire is connected to this contact on the green connector, it's position/ready to switch the camera view from the front cam to the rear camera. And when you put the car back in Park or Drive, it removes the power going to that contact and the switch swaps the view from the rear back to the front.
The easy part is using the OBD-II port with a plug from Amazon or some place and connecting 12 positive and ground to power the switch.
The more difficult part is connecting a wire to the green connector to power it from a backup /reverse light. Most people I suspect are not going to want to do this. But there's other ways. Let me explain this way first.
Its the effort of getting access to one of these sources and running a wire from one of them to the front corner under the dash where the switch and video cables are.
One source as Hank mentioned is under the carpet on the passenger side.
On newer models that location is not available because the harness is different. So, I used a connection in the liftgate. I threaded a wire from my reverse/backup light wire, across the liftgate, through the liftgate/body rubber boot, along the trunk, up the driver side rear and front door sill to the dash.
If a person didn't want to run one of the wires, they could do what I call the "hand" method. The switch comes with a homelink compatible remote. You program the remote (easily) to your Homelink and call it something like "Camera Swap". Then when you put the car in reverse or want to see out the rear camera from the touchscreen, use the hand method to press the remote button, or touch the Homelink icon and select Camera Select. Then when done, press the remote or Homelink choice again to swap back.

I like appleguru's idea and method for the switch is a CANBUS connection. There's a diagnostic connector behind the cubby. One would use a unique cable to plug into the diagnostic connector for 12v positive, ground and the reverse/backup connection. No need to run a wires from under the passenger side carpet or the liftgate. Its going to require a little more cost to cover the unique cable, but is simple and easier to remove when you trade up or sell and want to keep your toys.

Does that help? Its more of an either-or. appleguru, did I explain the CANBUS connection properly?
 
Someone has mentioned the Superbat (Chinese) cables. Superbat’s web site still offers them and now themy seem also (via Superbat) to be offered on Amazon. If you read the description on their web site you might conclude that the cables are ideal. They aren’t. In fact much of the language on their site was take from email communications I had with them when they were developing the cables. The cables have many flaws, the greatest of which they are not twisted pairs - which creates interference and cross talk and signal corruption.

DO NOT BUY THE SUPERBAT CABLES!!

These cables will cause erratic performance or the system won’t work at all. Many of those who bought the first run of the camera switch had problems with the Superbat cables and never were able to obtain a refund. In short buy the Tesla cables — they work and are about the same price anyway.
 
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I'm trying to return my $39 Amazon camera. Amazon is helpful. The seller is giving me hoops to jump - 1) return date expired, 2) send it back, but must be in original shipping box (no address provided for return) and 3) no Return authorization code.. I think I'll get there, but what a bump in the road.
Would be happy to send this original "approved by artsci" camera to a fellow Tesla owner and not fight Amazon. Make me an offer!!!!
 
I'm trying to return my $39 Amazon camera. Amazon is helpful. The seller is giving me hoops to jump - 1) return date expired, 2) send it back, but must be in original shipping box (no address provided for return) and 3) no Return authorization code.. I think I'll get there, but what a bump in the road.
Would be happy to send this original "approved by artsci" camera to a fellow Tesla owner and not fight Amazon. Make me an offer!!!!
I would take it but I already have one. Someone will definitely take it off your hands once the rest of the project completes production.
 
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I would take it but I already have one. Someone will definitely take it off your hands once the rest of the project completes production.
Good news for me ---the Amazon seller has agreed to refund my $39 and take back the camera. That also means that he has another one in his inventory to sell to a TMC geek seeking a vendor that will stand behind his product [in ways that I could not]. I will even give him a good review (now, but not before)

And the project moves forward - herky jerky - but moves on.