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Acceleration Boost (AB) or 20" induction wheels for 2023 new Model Y LR

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Just curious if in your experience with MS Plaid , have you found any use for Track Mode? Would Track Mode be a good reason to go with a Performance Model 3 or PMY versus just purchasing AB?

If you had $10k to spend on upgrades for a LRM3 or LRMY, i.e. AB, wheels and tires, suspension, what would you do, in what order?
As I write this, the current delta between M3P and M3 LR is $6k. For the MYP and MY LR it is $4k. For the MYP it is a no brainer to go with the P. For the M3P, a little more nuanced.

So let me address your $10k upgrade question as I've been down this route already. I'd go with the M3 LR, add boost and find a used set o MPP adjustable comfort coilovers that often pop up for sale here. I buy an inexpensive rear spoiler, get some uber looking wheel covers for the stock 18" wheels and call it a day. I like how the Ubers look, just don't like their weight and range hit. Another option is going with something like the Martian wheels like I had on my Y. I am fine with the stock 18's for 95% of my driving. They are efficient, and handle curbs quite well and are pretty quiet on my car. Once they wore out, I might go with something different but I would likely stay in the same size as a lot of tire options and the wheel/tire combos weigh less.

For me the stock MY LR even w/boost is too slow. So the MYP is the only option and at a 4k difference, it is absolutely the way to go as I'd get the rear spoiler I like and the acceleration comparable to the MY LR w/boost. I'd sell the Ubers and buy a lightweight set of 19's but slightly narrower rim width to get a bit more tire protection of the rim so my wife won't curb the snot out of them. Also less weight so the car feels more agile. Flat out I think the Y feels pretty ponderous, especially compared to the 3.

Let's talk about the track mode. Great fun in my book. The adjustability you have with it is pretty cool. On the Plaid it becomes a monster drift machie with 700 HP directed to the rear wheels only if you want AND it has torque biasing to improve turn in. You can do the same on the 3/Y but without so much power it is less fun when in RWD mode but still fun.

Track mode

Track mode V2

How much you might use it will determine how much it is worth to you. For me I figure it is worth about $1500 to me on my Plaid. That is why going with the MYP is the best option for the Y variants. For the 3 a little murkier. If my choice was to only have the M3P vs M3 LR boost and MPP coilovers for about the same money, I'll take the second. If I am willing to spend more money, then the M3P might make more sense depending on how you value the track mode and the slightly quicker 0-60 time. I've never missed the acceleration in my M3 LR after boosting it.

So if doing a M3 LR, I'd do it the same way I did it. Boost first, then MPP. I don't miss having the track mode in it TBH. Maybe because of how I use the car or maybe I have it in the Plaid. I don't use it that much but it is fun when I do but you really need the right area to enjoy it. I do like how I can dial in the handling balance when I want. IF you with something that has track mode, get the S3XY buttons to make it easier and quicker to access. One button touch and you are in it.

Meant to add something, If in the market for a 3/Y and didn't need it immediately, I'd hold off and see how the Highland refresh turns out. Looks like it might have a hatchback which would put the 3 a lot closer to the Y in usability and could be some other good upgrades.
 
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I thought I'd post this photo for reference of some hub caps I got off Amazon. They don't have center caps yet but I found some that I think will work and bought them but haven't applied them yet. I actually like how they look on the car. They are not symmetrical so there are no left and right versions. If this bothers you, don't get them. They are currently out of stock but there are likely similar ones and they people who sell them said they'd have more in.


Here they are on my car. These are over the 18" base aero wheels. The nice thing I like about them is they actually go over and protect the rim so they become the sacrificial layer. You can buy a set of 4 of these for less than 1 wheel repair. A total win for my wife's parking. Because of that overlap it makes them look bigger on the car and it gets the look I wanted without the penalty of the 20's.

IMG_1255.jpg


I went with the Tesmanian spoiler on the rear to complete the M3P cloning. At the time I bought my 3, it was like a 8-10k difference. Made no sense to go with the M3P. Similar delta for the MYP. Here is the link to the spoiler. Couldn't be happier with it. Fitment has been great. Speed tested to vmax of the M3 LR with no issues in Mexico.

That is one other difference that matter to sum up, the higher top speed of the LRs vs P's. For me it doesn't matter much. With the 3/Y when over triple digits they are pretty slow. It isn't like you can give it a quick burst and get up there like the MS LR or Plaid. So most of the time I am between 0-90 with the 3 and that seems to be its sweet spot.

 
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As I write this, the current delta between M3P and M3 LR is $6k. For the MYP and MY LR it is $4k. For the MYP it is a no brainer to go with the P. For the M3P, a little more nuanced.

So let me address your $10k upgrade question as I've been down this route already. I'd go with the M3 LR, add boost and find a used set o MPP adjustable comfort coilovers that often pop up for sale here. I buy an inexpensive rear spoiler, get some uber looking wheel covers for the stock 18" wheels and call it a day. I like how the Ubers look, just don't like their weight and range hit. Another option is going with something like the Martian wheels like I had on my Y. I am fine with the stock 18's for 95% of my driving. They are efficient, and handle curbs quite well and are pretty quiet on my car. Once they wore out, I might go with something different but I would likely stay in the same size as a lot of tire options and the wheel/tire combos weigh less.

For me the stock MY LR even w/boost is too slow. So the MYP is the only option and at a 4k difference, it is absolutely the way to go as I'd get the rear spoiler I like and the acceleration comparable to the MY LR w/boost. I'd sell the Ubers and buy a lightweight set of 19's but slightly narrower rim width to get a bit more tire protection of the rim so my wife won't curb the snot out of them. Also less weight so the car feels more agile. Flat out I think the Y feels pretty ponderous, especially compared to the 3.

Let's talk about the track mode. Great fun in my book. The adjustability you have with it is pretty cool. On the Plaid it becomes a monster drift machie with 700 HP directed to the rear wheels only if you want AND it has torque biasing to improve turn in. You can do the same on the 3/Y but without so much power it is less fun when in RWD mode but still fun.

Track mode

Track mode V2

How much you might use it will determine how much it is worth to you. For me I figure it is worth about $1500 to me on my Plaid. That is why going with the MYP is the best option for the Y variants. For the 3 a little murkier. If my choice was to only have the M3P vs M3 LR boost and MPP coilovers for about the same money, I'll take the second. If I am willing to spend more money, then the M3P might make more sense depending on how you value the track mode and the slightly quicker 0-60 time. I've never missed the acceleration in my M3 LR after boosting it.

So if doing a M3 LR, I'd do it the same way I did it. Boost first, then MPP. I don't miss having the track mode in it TBH. Maybe because of how I use the car or maybe I have it in the Plaid. I don't use it that much but it is fun when I do but you really need the right area to enjoy it. I do like how I can dial in the handling balance when I want. IF you with something that has track mode, get the S3XY buttons to make it easier and quicker to access. One button touch and you are in it.

Meant to add something, If in the market for a 3/Y and didn't need it immediately, I'd hold off and see how the Highland refresh turns out. Looks like it might have a hatchback which would put the 3 a lot closer to the Y in usability and could be some other good upgrades.
I'm not saying you are wrong about anything. Our Sig ModelX in just Lud is super quick AF. My old P85+ felt like a 85 Camaro or TransAm.
I went with the MYLR 7 seater because we needed the extra butt room, but for anything other than the longest trips, we will still use the X, plus that car has free supercharging for life.

I'm more into creature comfort > accelleration but it's a small preference. For me the MYLR w/o AB is absolutely a dog off the line slow, but you can punch it and still be almost every ICE. Now to convince the significant other and holder of the purse that $2k for more fun driving is worth well anything. Because to her, it's not worth crap. Wait til out of warranty and she said, "hey you root your phone, root our car after warranty". Fair enough. I'll wait.

for maybe til Thanksgiving then pull the trigger on AB. Meh if I can't beat a hellcat off the line....
 
Everyone has different priorities and I respect that.

The great thing about boost when bought through Tesla, it is fully covered by warranty. For me, that was they way to go with the factory boost version even if I couldn't remove it like the Igenenext options and sell it later. Basically it is like adding a 50HP shot to the car that never runs out. There isn't a day I don't take advantage of it in the 3 multiple times a day.
 
I think the only reason to go P is for track mode really.

That's why I did it for the M3. I have 0 thoughts of bringing an SUV to the track, but a small sedan is great. Nimble, shoots out of low speed corners etc. For me, the MY is more of a utility vehicle so I'm not full throttle accelerating from a near stop a lot, the boost is perfect for passing though.

I think I may have a different view if I had a plaid, but I couldn't see myself risking a $100k car on a road course. Not that I'd want to total an M3P, but that's more mentally manageable for me.

Ideally tesla would make a 2-dr sports car, but for now, the nimblest one you can get is the M3P.
 
i have had my new 2023 MYLR since May, and just paid for AB, since my soon to be Ex just got her used 2020 MYLR with AB. I found the MY already quick, similar to my old P85+, AB didn't feel much more powerful to me vs. before. Then again exes old car was a Signature Model X P90DL. Perhaps I didn't let the SW update, so will try it again today and check the results.
 
i have had my new 2023 MYLR since May, and just paid for AB, since my soon to be Ex just got her used 2020 MYLR with AB. I found the MY already quick, similar to my old P85+, AB didn't feel much more powerful to me vs. before. Then again exes old car was a Signature Model X P90DL. Perhaps I didn't let the SW update, so will try it again today and check the results.
In dyno testing AB adds about 100wheel HP, so a significant amount, but its not equally distributed. i.e. the extra twist isn't available from a standstill, so the car doesn't get off the line faster, but once you pass 10 or 20 mph it becomes significantly quicker.
 
i have had my new 2023 MYLR since May, and just paid for AB, since my soon to be Ex just got her used 2020 MYLR with AB. I found the MY already quick, similar to my old P85+, AB didn't feel much more powerful to me vs. before. Then again exes old car was a Signature Model X P90DL. Perhaps I didn't let the SW update, so will try it again today and check the results.
It will show sport and chill for acceleration settings. If you see sport, it has been updated.

It is still a bit soft off the line, but as mentioned, it really picks up about 10 mph. Dropping a half second is significant to 60. TBH, it was more impressive on my 3 LR than my Y LR. I'd still take it on my Y LR over stock.
 
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anyone know if AB affects chill at all? Is regular chill identical to a boosted car's chill? Mine does seem pretty timid on chill but I don't use it very often and don't remember what it felt like a couple years ago when I bought AB.
 
I can't see much difference but the last time I put my 3 or Y in chill was when there was snow. They all seem to do 0-60 in about the 7 second range. So not terrible but so much slower than the other options.

On my Plaid I don't think I've even willingly put it in chill. I did it by accident today when trying to setup the the left thumbwheel controls. I thought my car was broken when I hit the accelerator.
 
Pretty sure it said chill & standard. That changed to chill & Sport

Decided to check the manual from when I got it in 2020 (2020.20 manual) and yes, all three were present then

Acceleration: Adjust the amount of acceleration. Chill limits acceleration for a slightly smoother and gentler ride, whereas Standard or Sport (depending on vehicle configuration) provides the normal level of acceleration.
NOTE: When Chill is selected, Chill displays on the touchscreen above the driving speed.
 
IIRC, chill mode doesn't exist on a LR Y until after you acquire AB.
Not true. I had Chill and Sport before AB. That didn't change, it just shows in Software now as included package and yes, I felt the improvement the morning and needed to allow the SW to update and whatever toggle the code that allows faster throttle response time and quicker ramp in current that translates to more power. I hate being a battery guy as it always comes down to battery for me.
 
Not true. I had Chill and Sport before AB. That didn't change, it just shows in Software now as included package and yes, I felt the improvement the morning and needed to allow the SW to update and whatever toggle the code that allows faster throttle response time and quicker ramp in current that translates to more power. I hate being a battery guy as it always comes down to battery for me.
Chill and Standard. Sport replaces Standard.
 
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Not true. I had Chill and Sport before AB. That didn't change, it just shows in Software now as included package and yes, I felt the improvement the morning and needed to allow the SW to update and whatever toggle the code that allows faster throttle response time and quicker ramp in current that translates to more power. I hate being a battery guy as it always comes down to battery for me.
If yours already had Chill & Sport, maybe your car already had AB. And maybe that is why it did not feel any faster.

Before AB, the options are Chill & Standard, as noted above.