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Advice needed on 18” aftermarket wheels

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Looking for a flush set up on 18” wheels and meaty tires. Advice needed on proper setup. PICS & SETUP SPECS PLZ.

Possible Elbach springs drop or wait a bit and go for a coil over setup.

Daily driver ‘22 m3LR
I just went with the stock 18” wheel and tire sizes so I can’t comment on anything else. However, this will give you some idea of what that looks like on a Performance model that is supposed to sit slightly lower than a LR.

T Sportline TS5 18x8.5 wheels and 235/45/18 Michelin PS4S tires.

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Enkei NT03+M in SBC
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This setup only works for non-performance models. Let me know if you're interested!


Danny
Hey @MODEL+ Danny - why would these only fit on non performance? I’m looking at some staggered fit Enkei NT03-RR - Front 8.5” wide (235/45 R18), Rear 9” wide (255/40 R18).

Would these fit the 23 M3P? Stock suspension and the pics I’ve seen are only on non-performance :/
 
Hey @MODEL+ Danny - why would these only fit on non performance? I’m looking at some staggered fit Enkei NT03-RR - Front 8.5” wide (235/45 R18), Rear 9” wide (255/40 R18).

Would these fit the 23 M3P? Stock suspension and the pics I’ve seen are only on non-performance :/
I don’t think any Enkei 18” wheels will fit over the P brakes. I tried a set and they were a good 6mm too small in the barrel (a few mm larger to fit, plus a few mm of safety clearance).


At this point, while I like the look of a meaty tire on 18s, between tire availability and easy of fitment I don’t know if Ill bother with 18s. I run matching 19s for daily and track use.
 
Hey @MODEL+ Danny - why would these only fit on non performance? I’m looking at some staggered fit Enkei NT03-RR - Front 8.5” wide (235/45 R18), Rear 9” wide (255/40 R18).

Would these fit the 23 M3P? Stock suspension and the pics I’ve seen are only on non-performance :/

I don’t think any Enkei 18” wheels will fit over the P brakes. I tried a set and they were a good 6mm too small in the barrel (a few mm larger to fit, plus a few mm of safety clearance).


At this point, while I like the look of a meaty tire on 18s, between tire availability and easy of fitment I don’t know if Ill bother with 18s. I run matching 19s for daily and track use.
Enkei's Racing Revolution (RR) series are the select few 18" wheels that will clear M3P brakes.



Danny
 
If you want to bother with hub rings (which aren't really necessary unless you go with some weird wheels w/o conical lug seats), you need ones that will accommodate the Performance hub lip width.
So, 70.1ish, not 64.1.

Enkei wheels generally have lug holes bored for 12mm studs and are kinda annoying to align with our 14mm studs. I know my RR-series Enkeis are.
So, cheap centering rings may be worth it to speed up wheel installation. Overpriced "M3P"-specific hub rings with a hefty Tesla price premium - probably not.
 
Okay serious question for @Lindenwood and others in the "hub fitment/rings not needed" camp...if at some point some random tire shop tech or Tesla/dealer service tech needs to remount your wheels, and you're not with the car to oversee things, does that worry you at all? Especially if it might be your SO picking up the car and not you?

Like say your SO needs a damaged tire replaced and you're not in a position/location to help at all. Or the car needs some non-trivial warranty work, so it's in for service for a while, and the wheels might need to come off. Do you worry at all about someone with too much impact wrench enthusiasm torquing down your wheels crooked? Any stories good or bad?

Or is nobody touching your car but yourself? 😉😁

Maybe I'm just paranoid.
 
The wheels are centered by the conical lug nuts, and I have never experienced any variation in wheel balancing from the way I (or anyone) installed the lug nuts. In theory if you really torqued one down and then installed the others it could add some non-axial tension within the mating surfaces, but it would take a pretty incompetent installer to do that.
 
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Those little plastic or thin aluminum rings aren’t doing anything but, in my experience, getting in the way.
Yeap, same experience.

Okay serious question for @Lindenwood and others in the "hub fitment/rings not needed" camp...if at some point some random tire shop tech or Tesla/dealer service tech needs to remount your wheels, and you're not with the car to oversee things, does that worry you at all? Especially if it might be your SO picking up the car and not you?

Like say your SO needs a damaged tire replaced and you're not in a position/location to help at all. Or the car needs some non-trivial warranty work, so it's in for service for a while, and the wheels might need to come off. Do you worry at all about someone with too much impact wrench enthusiasm torquing down your wheels crooked? Any stories good or bad?

Or is nobody touching your car but yourself? 😉😁

Maybe I'm just paranoid.
Plenty of what ifs with the rings as well. Plastic rings like to fall out and get lost. And then you're in our world anyway ;)
Aluminum ones, if you use them on your daily, like to corrode in place on a hub. Do you think techs will be gentle if they need to remove, say, brake rotors and you rings are in the way?

A sloppy tech with an impact could do lots of damage regardless.
 
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Yeap, same experience.


Plenty of what ifs with the rings as well. Plastic rings like to fall out and get lost. And then you're in our world anyway ;)
Aluminum ones, if you use them on your daily, like to corrode in place on a hub. Do you think techs will be gentle if they need to remove, say, brake rotors and you rings are in the way?

A sloppy tech with an impact could do lots of damage regardless.
I have experienced and observed aluminum rings seized to hubs AND to the wheels themselves.