Robots, and you'd have thought they'd be mm accurate. Maybe the glass fitting robots are wobbly/drunk and they made the glass slightly narrower to give them a higher chance of them getting the glass on
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After a weekend's ownership...
- Thread starter planehazza
- Start date
I collected mine on Thursday from Leeds. I asked why I don't have these caps where youtubers advertise you can open and hook your shopping bags onto in the frunk. All I have is an empty cavity where the caps should be
They said on the phone to me just now "it doesn't come as standard anymore you have to buy it on the website". However I checked the website and there's nothing about these caps
Are they bullshitting me? Do you have caps on yours @planehazza?
They said on the phone to me just now "it doesn't come as standard anymore you have to buy it on the website". However I checked the website and there's nothing about these caps
Are they bullshitting me? Do you have caps on yours @planehazza?
Damn thats annoying as they seem really useful
Otherwise i'm extremely satisfied with my new car! Although I do agree about how it's a bit loud when on the motorway
Nope, just gaping holes on mine. I did spot it as soon as I opened the frunk, but I forgot to ask. I wasn't too bothered, as I recalled reading on here that you can buy the from Tesla parts dept.
Robots, and you'd have thought they'd be mm accurate. Maybe the glass fitting robots are wobbly/drunk and they made the glass slightly narrower to give them a higher chance of them getting the glass on
Thought it would have been robots, appears to be perfect alignment on the drivers side, so it looks like a spec issue with the glass unless the glass is supposed to be slightly narrower in which case they should make it an even gap at both sides. Not surprising there are some wind noise issues at speed.
How many people are likely to be fitting a roof rack to a Model 3? It must be a vanishingly small percentage of owners, surely. I don't really get the logic of manufacturing the glass to be smaller to accommodate it. I'd sooner Tesla simply say its not compatible with roof racks and make the glass the correct size.
Jason71
Well-Known Member
Maybe it depends on whether its one made in the proper factory or the tent?Robots, and you'd have thought they'd be mm accurate. Maybe the glass fitting robots are wobbly/drunk and they made the glass slightly narrower to give them a higher chance of them getting the glass on
Billionaireboy
Member
Not available I was told.....I asked my sales guy who checked online, nothing there.
I have just charged my Car to 100% / 309 Miles - I know you should not do this too often but thought I would give it a FULL charge and then from now on, only up to 90%
Can't think of any reasons why you should not do this.....right?
I have just charged my Car to 100% / 309 Miles - I know you should not do this too often but thought I would give it a FULL charge and then from now on, only up to 90%
Can't think of any reasons why you should not do this.....right?
No problem, though not advised just to leave it sitting at 100% unused ... best to drive reasonably soon after hitting 100%.
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
I had rear quarter light glass break. Autoglass, or whoever, fitted a new one. It was out by a MM or so, wind noise (particularly in back seat) was significant. They came back and replaced it, using a more senior fitter!!, and its been noise-free since then, so I can imagine any glass slightly misaligned might cause noise, and also that, for those, a noise-reduction set of rubbers may well be a significant benefit.
yeah. Somewhat unnerving sending a huge wedge of cash off to some anonymous bank account. You can send a quid, or similar, and see if the Remaining Debit amount reduces, in order to be sure that you got the account details correct etc. That normally shows up within a few hours ... watch out if your bank limits you to £10K a day, or somesuch money laundering borrocks, as it will either take a while to complete payment or you'll have to find a different payment-route.
My detailer told me not to let the Vendor touch any paint defects "Makes our job far harder if they've tried to fix it". I was having the car wrapped, and the cheapest car in there was a Zonda, so they were basically saying "Any brand, not Tesla specifically"
... maybe speak to your detailer about that, but might be better not to let Tesla touch any paint defects?I'm, retrospectively, annoyed about this. I spotted they were missing, got the "They aren't included any more", I went "Oh well" and went around to stores to get a few other bits & bobs. They probably had the Hooks in stock, but i didn't think to ask, and now they are website only [but a) no longer in store and b) not yet on website] that will be a huge portion of shipping-cost-on-top
Yeah, charge above 90% immediately prior to a trip. Don't stress doing it once or twice and then not being able to drive / immediately, but best to either only charge to 100% when going on a trip of, if trip cancelled, drive it down to 95% or turn on Sentry Mode and heating full blast for a bit! Nothing to worry about once-in-a-while though ... I do it more often that I care too: Set Schedule to 100% to charge early in the morning before departure. Come home, manually reset it on the Dash before plugging in - 'coz, you know, "its right in front of me and not missable!", but forget to reset the schedule and for the next couple of mornings scratch my head why "I must have forgotten to reduce the 100% charge" until twit-that-I-am I remember the Schedule
No reason not to do it before a trip ... and 100% charge will rebalance the cells, which can then have the benefit of correcting max range calcs, so is worth doing "once in a while" when a long trip presents the opportunity.
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
For me:
The steering wheel on M3 is a fair bit smaller than MS. It feels like "hot hatch". Even with AP on I find long journey more tiring in M3 than MS (actually, rephrase that, "less driver-workload-reduction" in M3), and I suspect some of that is the steering wheel and the feedback etc. The M3LR just has an "urgent" feel to it, just like I remember hot hatches of old. Its probably just that I've got soft driving the MS! but I do remember, 4 years ago and early days of AP1, the huge reduction in driver-workload on a regular trip starting at 11PM driving for 1h30m on dual carriageway, all bar first/last half-dozen miles, where I could make a direct comparison between previous ICE and MS AP1. I was always fighting sleep by the end of the journey in the ICE, never once had that subsequently in the MS AP1.
Hi all, thought it best I come back here with a couple of niggling questions/updates to my OP. Mods, is there a way I can edit posts after 15 mins?
DAB sounds weird. The acoustics of the car don't like the typical frequencies of male voices it seems. I'll probably just get used to it, but when listening to DAB radio it sounds like all the audio is coming from behind the screen in the centre.
Spotify - this is great, but it needs refining. Take this morning for example: I got in the car and and spotify was still the active source but it was from 'fresh' againl; it didn't continue on from where it was left the night before. The same happens when leaving Spotify to go over to DAB. DAB plays which ever station it was on as soon as you press Radio, but go back to Spotify and you have to start up a playlist again. Very annoying, especially when you like to use random on a playlist that has 3000+ songs. The playlist should reflect where you are in the list. Any tips for this?
Radio needs updating, it's very basic. Even DAB station info and pictures would make a nice change. Given the car can browse the Internet, surely the two programs to work together?
The passenger side rattle is really bad. It sounds like the whole door window is loose. Need to get the next passenger to try and locate the source for me.
Unlocking. I still don't have access the the account and so I have no app yet. Twice now when I've got in by tapping the card against the B pillar, I've been able to put my PIN and drive without putting the car on the centre console.
When the car unlocks I hear a click-click sound from the underside. It's quite loud. Is this just some sort of HV relay kicking in or something?
Reversing. I love the whole hold/OPD functionanility, but they need to have separate settings for reverse. Creep on reverse is ideal so that you can just regulate speed by riding the brake pedal. I'd be suprised if this didn't appear in the future. I really hope they don't just stop developing features for the 3 now that the Y is the new toy on the market.
DAB sounds weird. The acoustics of the car don't like the typical frequencies of male voices it seems. I'll probably just get used to it, but when listening to DAB radio it sounds like all the audio is coming from behind the screen in the centre.
Spotify - this is great, but it needs refining. Take this morning for example: I got in the car and and spotify was still the active source but it was from 'fresh' againl; it didn't continue on from where it was left the night before. The same happens when leaving Spotify to go over to DAB. DAB plays which ever station it was on as soon as you press Radio, but go back to Spotify and you have to start up a playlist again. Very annoying, especially when you like to use random on a playlist that has 3000+ songs. The playlist should reflect where you are in the list. Any tips for this?
Radio needs updating, it's very basic. Even DAB station info and pictures would make a nice change. Given the car can browse the Internet, surely the two programs to work together?
The passenger side rattle is really bad. It sounds like the whole door window is loose. Need to get the next passenger to try and locate the source for me.
Unlocking. I still don't have access the the account and so I have no app yet. Twice now when I've got in by tapping the card against the B pillar, I've been able to put my PIN and drive without putting the car on the centre console.
When the car unlocks I hear a click-click sound from the underside. It's quite loud. Is this just some sort of HV relay kicking in or something?
Reversing. I love the whole hold/OPD functionanility, but they need to have separate settings for reverse. Creep on reverse is ideal so that you can just regulate speed by riding the brake pedal. I'd be suprised if this didn't appear in the future. I really hope they don't just stop developing features for the 3 now that the Y is the new toy on the market.
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Jason71
Well-Known Member
This is normal. so long as you enter the pin within a certain number of seconds of unlocking the door then the card on console is not required. i can't remember how long. it's in the manual
Ah good to know. I did wonder that, but PTD was one of the first things I set up. Was it introduced in a recent(ish) update? Mine was 2019.something when I picked the car up, and it was only yesterday that I first noticed it not asking for the card. I'm 99.9% sure I was asked to put the card on the console since updating though.
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
not AFAIK
I haven't come from Automatic background ... but I find "throw car into R" whilst running forwards (and vice-versa), and then use Throttle to first decelerate, and then reverse, works for me in N-point-turns.
I use ROLL on the MS because I can't do that smoothly [on HOLD], but I'm happy with HOLD on M3 for the N-point turn. I've only got sample-size of one, but my assumption is that the retro-fit of Magnets to MS for the Raven is not as "polished" as the from-ground-up design of those magnets in M3 motors.
MrBadger
Badger out
You quickly get use to it. First time I tried it off our drive, a 90 degree turn and quite steep, it was seriously a complete brain f..k, but its almost normal now. Never bothered going into neutral mid manoeuvre though and just rolling soon get use to pedal up to brake not down. Hold is totally normal on the flat after a few goes.
I guess it depends where you come from though. I personally still drive a manual and regularly drove automatics and automated manuals/semi auto. So I was constantly jumping between the various methods. Until Tesla hold, my personal favorite was the automated manual/semi auto, which was probably most similar to Tesla roll mode - which I never used.
My concerns with sending the cash to Tesla is not so much it disappearing into the ether, I was going to do as you suggested and send a nominal amount first and check the source code to see if it's reflected there, it's more to do with the fact that because I'm paying cash I'll be expected to pay for the car in full up front before I've even seen it.
I'm not sure how it works with finance in terms of paying the initial rental or whatever, but I presume if the car was a total lemon you could refuse delivery and back out of the contract? If my car ended up being a total lemon Tesla would still have ~£61k of my money. I'd have no leverage.
Yeah I'm not letting Tesla deal with paint defects unless they are something a detailer couldn't realistically fix, like significant scratches or whatever. If that happens I'd have to cancel my detailing appointment I guess.My detailer told me not to let the Vendor touch any paint defects "Makes our job far harder if they've tried to fix it". I was having the car wrapped, and the cheapest car in there was a Zonda, so they were basically saying "Any brand, not Tesla specifically"
I'm surprised Tesla let you charge to 100% habitually if it has such a negative effect on the battery. They could surely just make 100% an artificial number, so when you charge to 100% you're actually charging the batteries to 95% behind the scenes so to speak.Yeah, charge above 90% immediately prior to a trip. Don't stress doing it once or twice and then not being able to drive / immediately, but best to either only charge to 100% when going on a trip of, if trip cancelled, drive it down to 95% or turn on Sentry Mode and heating full blast for a bit! Nothing to worry about once-in-a-while though ... I do it more often that I care too: Set Schedule to 100% to charge early in the morning before departure. Come home, manually reset it on the Dash before plugging in - 'coz, you know, "its right in front of me and not missable!", but forget to reset the schedule and for the next couple of mornings scratch my head why "I must have forgotten to reduce the 100% charge" until twit-that-I-am I remember the Schedule
No reason not to do it before a trip ... and 100% charge will rebalance the cells, which can then have the benefit of correcting max range calcs, so is worth doing "once in a while" when a long trip presents the opportunity.
When I plug my i3 to charge I don't even think about that stuff, and indeed there is no option to set a max charge %. You plug it in, it will keep charging until it decides its full. If EVs generally have problems with 100% charging then presumably the i3 doesn't actually charge the batteries to 100% internally to protect them.
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