How did your front suspension control arm failure cause the rear wheel to stick out like that?View attachment 326925
View attachment 326930
Today, 130.9K miles. 2012 Model S...
Feedback welcome!
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How did your front suspension control arm failure cause the rear wheel to stick out like that?View attachment 326925
View attachment 326930
Today, 130.9K miles. 2012 Model S...
Feedback welcome!
What about your warranty?I have a 2016 p90d with 7k miles on it. [snip...] I had it towed to a shop and I was quoted at 21k for the fix.
I haven't even talked to them yet. I figured since I bumped into the wall they wouldn't cover it. I honestly didn't even think to try it.What about your warranty?
If it really was minor damage, it shouldn't be an issue. Tesla can't very well say that after a minor bump the suspension is expected to fail!I haven't even talked to them yet. I figured since I bumped into the wall they wouldn't cover it. I honestly didn't even think to try it.
That's a fair point. Not to mention that the suspension and everything was fine until I put it into reverse. That seems to be a common trend from what I can tell.If it really was minor damage, it shouldn't be an issue. Tesla can't very well say that after a minor bump the suspension is expected to fail!
I have a 2016 p90d with 7k miles on it. A few weeks ago I bumped into a wall pulling into a parking spot. It was try minor damage, just a few scratches. No issues driving or anything at all. Later that night I pulled into my driveway and turned the car around. When I went into reverse I heard a lot pop sound and the car wouldn't move. I get out to see what it was and my front left tire is pretty much sideways. I had it towed to a shop and I was quoted at 21k for the fix.
I have a 2016 p90d with 7k miles on it. A few weeks ago I bumped into a wall pulling into a parking spot. It was try minor damage, just a few scratches. No issues driving or anything at all. Later that night I pulled into my driveway and turned the car around. When I went into reverse I heard a lot pop sound and the car wouldn't move. I get out to see what it was and my front left tire is pretty much sideways. I had it towed to a shop and I was quoted at 21k for the fix.
I have a 2016 p90d with 7k miles on it. A few weeks ago I bumped into a wall pulling into a parking spot. It was try minor damage, just a few scratches. No issues driving or anything at all. Later that night I pulled into my driveway and turned the car around. When I went into reverse I heard a lot pop sound and the car wouldn't move. I get out to see what it was and my front left tire is pretty much sideways. I had it towed to a shop and I was quoted at 21k for the fix.
Tesla has repaired the car and said that while not common, they do see broken control arms occasionally on older cars. There has been a part revision to fix this, so clearly there was a problem with the original design.
They won't replace the other side however unless it shows problems which seems a bit scary for those of us with older cars. At least in our case, there was no warning, it was a catastrophic failure.
This just happened to me. I have a 2015 70D and front left control arm broke while traveling low speed on Friday (2 days ago). I posted pics on another thread. No accident, no pot holes, just normal driving.
Did Tesla mention what they consider an "older car"? Also, did they explain what changes were made to the part to ensure it's more safe than failed part? I'm a bit scared to continue driving the car, especially with my kids, so any info you have would be appreciated.
View attachment 326925
View attachment 326930
Today, 130.9K miles. 2012 Model S...
Feedback welcome!
To an unsuspecting mechanic it looks plenty strong, but these arms are not made to jack up the car - see the warning in the manual:
Are you seriously suggesting that several people in very different locations have jacked up their cars on the suspension components? That is EXTREMELY unlikely.Did you or anybody ever jack up the car on this control arm? Or was it ever placed on a jack stand?
I'm suspicious that many of the failures result from improper jacking of the car on these aluminum parts. The crack caused by the jack is not visible at first and it can take months or years to break eventually. To an unsuspecting mechanic it looks plenty strong, but these arms are not made to jack up the car - see the warning in the manual: "The locations illustrated are the only approved lifting points for Model S. Lifting at any other points can cause damage. Damage caused by lifting Model S is not covered by the warranty."