After siliconing the h*ll out of all the seals this last morning, ALL of the windows were stuck in the up position just 8 hours later. No ice storm, no snow, no fog -- just cold 25 degree weather. No visible ice anywhere. Two of the four door handles were frozen shut, and the charge port would not open except for trying it 14 times and hitting it hard several times. To make matters worse, the car and phone no longer talk to each other, so I can't pre-heat or use defrost at will. (yes, BT, cellular, and local network were all on). The car has the premium connectivity. This car has become a nightmare in the Chicago winter. BTW, no garage.
I'm resorting to spraying the caustic HEAT product down all the windows every morning when it is below 35 degrees. This will destroy the window trim and most likely streak the paint on the doors, but it is the only way I can get into or out the car during a winter here. This situation absolutly sucks.
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Anybody Been Using These Silicone Products for Window Seals?
- Thread starter Bikeman
- Start date
There was a mobile Tesla technician at the charging station. I asked him about the frozen windows. He said don't use silicone on the rubber seals, but rather spray the windows with "Mother's Spray Wax" and polish dry. He says ice won't stick to the wax. He sprayed the drivers door and last night after freezing wet snow, the ice scraped off very easily and the glass did not stick to the rubber seal. I just received a bottle in the post and will do all of the windows.
I have found that it is not the door seals, but the fiber junction between the windows at the top of the door. On any day after melting snow or rain when it is below freezing, I spray a mix of isopropyl and water there a couple minutes ahead of trying the door handle, and so far that practice has released the window to drop. I have less luck with the charge port door in freezing temps. I will look into that wax.
Thinking about that spray wax, I can't figure out how that could even work. The area that freezes the windows shut is not the top part of the window you can see. Yes, spray all the wax you want on the window, but all that would do is hydrophobically make all the water run directly down and into the fiber barrier within the door -- that juction is what freezes so easily. It would make the problem worse, wouldn't it?
I mean, how would you treat the part of the window within the door, that inch or two that is inside and not visible? That's what would need to be treated with the wax. I don't want to have to take my door and windows apart in the middle of winter.
Maybe I'm missing something with the logic of applying the wax that I'm not able to figure out.
I mean, how would you treat the part of the window within the door, that inch or two that is inside and not visible? That's what would need to be treated with the wax. I don't want to have to take my door and windows apart in the middle of winter.
Maybe I'm missing something with the logic of applying the wax that I'm not able to figure out.
I got the wax yesterday and sprayed rhe 4 door windows. I noticed that the ice on the window that the tech had done came off very easily. As you point out the water gets into the fiber at the bottom. I thought about this and let the wax run into it, thinking (hoping) it would act as a release agent. During his "demonstration" he had me place my hand on the glass and pull down. The waxed window was slightly slipperier.
We shall see.
SilverString
Member
My drivers window was squeaking so badly I hated to open or close it. Could not get it to stop until I got a bottle of Gummi Pflege Stift and applied it, with the window down, all across the top and front half seals that contact the window. Now silent. Good stuff.
I've had the squeaking window too, but only while it was freshly wet from a rain or melting snow that got into the felt at the top of the door. I am guessing that the sqeak came from the window glass rubbing on that felt, but not at all 100% sure.
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