Tesla Model 3 Wind Noise
Again!!!
New discoveries and new approaches included.
I've put hundred(s) of hours in trying to get rid of this wind noise and I've made great progress!
It's incremental as I continue to learn, that's why this is one of several posts and comments as well as a number of YouTube videos published.
I have the 2022 Tesla Model 3 Performance.
But I speculate this also could apply to Model Y and possibly the others.
Most of the wind noise seems to come from the general area of the top corner of the cabin windows, against the B pillar (rear end of the window glass) close to my left ear. The issue is primarily the seal between the glass and the rubber door surround weatherstripping. But some noise can also come from the same rubber seal “back side” where it inserts into the B Pillar Camera Glass.
Note that the offending area can move and change with other more gross adjustments. It can also move and change with heating and cooling of the vehicle and aging of the rubber. You've got to fine tune the gross adjustments as good as you can get before moving on to the next process that I call, "shimming".
I've made a lot of progress and the driver's side noise is down to the point that now I hear all the other doors/ windows instead of the one right next to my left ear.
But be realistic. At 80 MPH you will hear some wind!
Wind noise cannot be entirely eliminated. But the excessive wind noise can be diagnosed and dealt with. It takes patience, some nerve, and a bit of time. Don't expect Tesla to chase all your wind noise problems as much as I have. They might change your door/window weatherstripping, if you are lucky. But they will likely stop there. This problem requires far more work.
If the condition of the rubber is bad, it must be replaced. This could be true in vehicles more than 2 or so years old. Just look it over carefully. We should all condition that rubber on some kind of regular schedule. Tesla mobile service technician recommended a non silicone treatment. I bought what was recommended by Tesla, Wurts. It's expensive but I'm pulling out all the stops to solve these issues.
Make sure your rubber weatherstrip going around the entire door opening is fully inserted into the groove in the body. It often falls out! In some cases, I suspect many cases, Tesla factory never put it in correctly in the first place. Even Tesla Service often doesn't put the rubber in correctly. Also check the back of the rubber where it inserts into the B Pillar Camera Glass. That is often out as well. Check both front and back doors for these. I find that noise from the rear window glass or B Pillar can sound like it's in the corner of the front window.
What I've observed, of great importance to this issue, in my car is that the window has a lot of pre curvature in the non shut non pressured shape. That is, if you raise the window all the way, while the door is open. Look down at it from above it. Use a straight edge. It's significantly curved! And the door surround rubber weatherstrip attached to the car body is fairly flat. That means the window must flattened out when it is rolled up. This isn't a good idea and a terrible design IMHO or possibly it's a manufacturing defect. (Tesla has this glass manufactured for them. There's a manufacturer's label on it. Additionally, I don't know if the double pane glass is more curved than the single pane glass.) That means that the window needs a lot of pressure to flatten and it's likely there will be spots that don't get a good tight seal. It also might mean that the rubber weatherstripping surround may get unevenly pressured over time may squeeze some areas more than other areas. And you may have to return to the process. Time will tell. The rubber is very solid and very hard, so I hope not.
So I did the following:
I closed the door tighter by adjusting the hook latch in the B pillar inwards several mils. This moves all the glass tighter in against the rubber.
I then tightened the glass somewhat selectively front and back (each has an adjustment screw) by removing the door inner panel and moved the screws That are near the bottom of the door, outward so the top of the glass moved in. This I did in several iterations back and forth front back in out until I got the glass as flat as possible. I kept measuring with the cardboard slip test as described herein to guide my adjustments.
Finally I came up with a unique "shimming process". I shim the rubber outwards towards the window a few mils at a time and only in areas where the gap is larger and only after doing all the other tightening techniques outlined herein. I believe this process is unique but I share here with everyone. I have not read or watched anyone even thinking of this approach. It took a long time to sort this approach out and a lot of experimentation. But it works. It's tricky and time consuming but it works!
After tightening the door and window to get the rubber to window tighter in the gross overall sense. Then I test for any remaining loose sections using the cardboard slip test.
First, prior to making any adjustments at all and after each adjustment tried, I used a thin cardboard about the shape of a credit card. I test the fit of the window glass to the rubber. I just slip it in between. If it feels snug it is good, if the cardboard passes easily or goes through, there will be wind noises. I mark the section(s), hopefully just one section, with removable black electrical tape (it leaves no residue).
I have to get the overall window tight enough so that there are only one or two areas, say 4” more or less in length where the test card is too loose. If there's more areas than that still loose, then go back to gross tightening adjustment measures such as door tightening and window angle adjustment. Do those iteratively until you are down to one or two small areas that need a bit of help. Do not shim the thing to death. You'll be chasing your tail and risking broken glass.
I shim the rubber out just in those areas. Hopefully just one or two. Hopefully not much greater than 4 inches each.
I came up with a shimming system.
I take a hacksaw blade and wrap one or two wraps of black Duck Tape around it for the thickness desired. I then tape the blade on the body surface on the edge facing the rubber when removed. If necessary I open the slot in the rubber a bit to fit. If I need a shorter shim, I simply break the blade into shorter sections. I used the hacksaw blade because I can get them easily and they are easy to break to size and they are thin and a good size in two dimensions.
I then press the rubber back into place carefully going over the shim(s). I then reinsert all places where the rubber is supposed to seat.
This process has proved to work quite well.
A word of caution. DO NOT excessively shim. You could possibly force the window to hit the metal half round over the top of the window and break glass. Replacement glass runs around $200-$275, aftermarket or used, if you do it yourself. It's likely more than $700 for a professional replacement. The newer cars have double glass which is more expensive and more difficult to get a hold of. So the double pane glass might run well over one thousand dollars for professional replacement.
Door Latch tightening:
The hook latch pulls or rather holds the door in tighter. The process is first to mark the current OEM position by applying four pieces of black electrical tape right to each of the four edges of the latch. The latch is silver colored and has a hook shape and is mounted to the B Pillar with two Torx bolts. You move it by loosening up the bolts some, but not all the way out. Then tap the hook with a rubber mallet. You've already marked where it was so you know if it moves and how much. Move a couple mils at a time. If you move it in too much, the door might not hold shut. Just reverse the process if that happens. You want it tighter but not impossibly tight.
Shim.
I remove the section of rubber weatherstripping where I tested with cardboard and found too loose. You simply grab and pull. I don't take the entire thing out, just a 4-12 inch section where I found through slip testing is problemmatic. I make the shim from a piece of hacksaw blade broken to size. I wrap a single wrap of duck tape completely around it. I tape it to the leading edge on the outside surface of the car body where the rubber “snaps” into place. I don't need any glue. I use a couple pieces of duck tape to hold the shim to the leading edge and it won't slip back when I tap the rubber back in over the top of it. This is a reversible process. And even if you can't get all the duck tape out, it's hidden.
Before you do all this make sure your rubber weatherstripping surround is fully inserted into the body slot. They are not glued but rather are pressed fitted and sometimes comes loose. It's a "bad" design, subject to falling out, moving, etc.
I made videos on my YouTube channel in my full name, showing all this work. I don't think I am supposed to “self promote” so I won't post the link here for the time being.
Also note:
Noises can deceive. Rely more upon the cardboard slip test than your ears.
I found noises from the rear door driver's side glass to B pillar made noise that sounded like it was coming from my front driver's glass. Test all windows!
Again!!!
New discoveries and new approaches included.
I've put hundred(s) of hours in trying to get rid of this wind noise and I've made great progress!
It's incremental as I continue to learn, that's why this is one of several posts and comments as well as a number of YouTube videos published.
I have the 2022 Tesla Model 3 Performance.
But I speculate this also could apply to Model Y and possibly the others.
Most of the wind noise seems to come from the general area of the top corner of the cabin windows, against the B pillar (rear end of the window glass) close to my left ear. The issue is primarily the seal between the glass and the rubber door surround weatherstripping. But some noise can also come from the same rubber seal “back side” where it inserts into the B Pillar Camera Glass.
Note that the offending area can move and change with other more gross adjustments. It can also move and change with heating and cooling of the vehicle and aging of the rubber. You've got to fine tune the gross adjustments as good as you can get before moving on to the next process that I call, "shimming".
I've made a lot of progress and the driver's side noise is down to the point that now I hear all the other doors/ windows instead of the one right next to my left ear.
But be realistic. At 80 MPH you will hear some wind!
Wind noise cannot be entirely eliminated. But the excessive wind noise can be diagnosed and dealt with. It takes patience, some nerve, and a bit of time. Don't expect Tesla to chase all your wind noise problems as much as I have. They might change your door/window weatherstripping, if you are lucky. But they will likely stop there. This problem requires far more work.
If the condition of the rubber is bad, it must be replaced. This could be true in vehicles more than 2 or so years old. Just look it over carefully. We should all condition that rubber on some kind of regular schedule. Tesla mobile service technician recommended a non silicone treatment. I bought what was recommended by Tesla, Wurts. It's expensive but I'm pulling out all the stops to solve these issues.
Make sure your rubber weatherstrip going around the entire door opening is fully inserted into the groove in the body. It often falls out! In some cases, I suspect many cases, Tesla factory never put it in correctly in the first place. Even Tesla Service often doesn't put the rubber in correctly. Also check the back of the rubber where it inserts into the B Pillar Camera Glass. That is often out as well. Check both front and back doors for these. I find that noise from the rear window glass or B Pillar can sound like it's in the corner of the front window.
What I've observed, of great importance to this issue, in my car is that the window has a lot of pre curvature in the non shut non pressured shape. That is, if you raise the window all the way, while the door is open. Look down at it from above it. Use a straight edge. It's significantly curved! And the door surround rubber weatherstrip attached to the car body is fairly flat. That means the window must flattened out when it is rolled up. This isn't a good idea and a terrible design IMHO or possibly it's a manufacturing defect. (Tesla has this glass manufactured for them. There's a manufacturer's label on it. Additionally, I don't know if the double pane glass is more curved than the single pane glass.) That means that the window needs a lot of pressure to flatten and it's likely there will be spots that don't get a good tight seal. It also might mean that the rubber weatherstripping surround may get unevenly pressured over time may squeeze some areas more than other areas. And you may have to return to the process. Time will tell. The rubber is very solid and very hard, so I hope not.
So I did the following:
I closed the door tighter by adjusting the hook latch in the B pillar inwards several mils. This moves all the glass tighter in against the rubber.
I then tightened the glass somewhat selectively front and back (each has an adjustment screw) by removing the door inner panel and moved the screws That are near the bottom of the door, outward so the top of the glass moved in. This I did in several iterations back and forth front back in out until I got the glass as flat as possible. I kept measuring with the cardboard slip test as described herein to guide my adjustments.
Finally I came up with a unique "shimming process". I shim the rubber outwards towards the window a few mils at a time and only in areas where the gap is larger and only after doing all the other tightening techniques outlined herein. I believe this process is unique but I share here with everyone. I have not read or watched anyone even thinking of this approach. It took a long time to sort this approach out and a lot of experimentation. But it works. It's tricky and time consuming but it works!
After tightening the door and window to get the rubber to window tighter in the gross overall sense. Then I test for any remaining loose sections using the cardboard slip test.
First, prior to making any adjustments at all and after each adjustment tried, I used a thin cardboard about the shape of a credit card. I test the fit of the window glass to the rubber. I just slip it in between. If it feels snug it is good, if the cardboard passes easily or goes through, there will be wind noises. I mark the section(s), hopefully just one section, with removable black electrical tape (it leaves no residue).
I have to get the overall window tight enough so that there are only one or two areas, say 4” more or less in length where the test card is too loose. If there's more areas than that still loose, then go back to gross tightening adjustment measures such as door tightening and window angle adjustment. Do those iteratively until you are down to one or two small areas that need a bit of help. Do not shim the thing to death. You'll be chasing your tail and risking broken glass.
I shim the rubber out just in those areas. Hopefully just one or two. Hopefully not much greater than 4 inches each.
I came up with a shimming system.
I take a hacksaw blade and wrap one or two wraps of black Duck Tape around it for the thickness desired. I then tape the blade on the body surface on the edge facing the rubber when removed. If necessary I open the slot in the rubber a bit to fit. If I need a shorter shim, I simply break the blade into shorter sections. I used the hacksaw blade because I can get them easily and they are easy to break to size and they are thin and a good size in two dimensions.
I then press the rubber back into place carefully going over the shim(s). I then reinsert all places where the rubber is supposed to seat.
This process has proved to work quite well.
A word of caution. DO NOT excessively shim. You could possibly force the window to hit the metal half round over the top of the window and break glass. Replacement glass runs around $200-$275, aftermarket or used, if you do it yourself. It's likely more than $700 for a professional replacement. The newer cars have double glass which is more expensive and more difficult to get a hold of. So the double pane glass might run well over one thousand dollars for professional replacement.
Door Latch tightening:
The hook latch pulls or rather holds the door in tighter. The process is first to mark the current OEM position by applying four pieces of black electrical tape right to each of the four edges of the latch. The latch is silver colored and has a hook shape and is mounted to the B Pillar with two Torx bolts. You move it by loosening up the bolts some, but not all the way out. Then tap the hook with a rubber mallet. You've already marked where it was so you know if it moves and how much. Move a couple mils at a time. If you move it in too much, the door might not hold shut. Just reverse the process if that happens. You want it tighter but not impossibly tight.
Shim.
I remove the section of rubber weatherstripping where I tested with cardboard and found too loose. You simply grab and pull. I don't take the entire thing out, just a 4-12 inch section where I found through slip testing is problemmatic. I make the shim from a piece of hacksaw blade broken to size. I wrap a single wrap of duck tape completely around it. I tape it to the leading edge on the outside surface of the car body where the rubber “snaps” into place. I don't need any glue. I use a couple pieces of duck tape to hold the shim to the leading edge and it won't slip back when I tap the rubber back in over the top of it. This is a reversible process. And even if you can't get all the duck tape out, it's hidden.
Before you do all this make sure your rubber weatherstripping surround is fully inserted into the body slot. They are not glued but rather are pressed fitted and sometimes comes loose. It's a "bad" design, subject to falling out, moving, etc.
I made videos on my YouTube channel in my full name, showing all this work. I don't think I am supposed to “self promote” so I won't post the link here for the time being.
Also note:
Noises can deceive. Rely more upon the cardboard slip test than your ears.
I found noises from the rear door driver's side glass to B pillar made noise that sounded like it was coming from my front driver's glass. Test all windows!
Last edited:
