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Anybody Been Using These Silicone Products for Window Seals?

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I just bought a couple sprays advertised as Silicone. What I'm worried about is that one, or both, contain petroleum product that will deteriorate the window and door seals. Formulas are unsurprisingly not listed on the cans. Both cans are identical - same weight, cap, etc. What do you use to alleviate the winter freezing issues with Tesla frameless windows? I can't find anything that is listed as 100% silicone. Is there something better than either of these? Thanks!

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The petroleum distillates in the silicone spray products are volatile, evaporate quickly. I've applied silicone spray to automotive door seals, gaskets many times to lubricate and protect the rubber parts and prevent freezing with no issue. I typically apply the silicone spray to a paper towel and then wipe down the door gaskets, let dry for a short time and wipe off any excess. I typically do this once or twice a year. Silicone Spray works well to lubricate hinges, door striker plates , locks (home and auto.) For traditional automotive locks you just need to apply a small amount of the Silicone Spray to the key.)

As part of winterization I wipe some Silicone Spray on the plastic/rubber gasket on the inside lid of the housing of my home standby generator. In cold weather frost can make it difficult to open the lid to access the generator. Since I started applying Silicone Spray to the gasket this has not been an issue.

For long term protection of plastic and rubber there is also a line of 303 Aerospace Protectant products that are designed for use on airplanes and boats; these work great on automobiles.
 
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The petroleum distillates in the silicone spray products are volatile, evaporate quickly. I've applied silicone spray to automotive door seals, gaskets many times to lubricate and protect the rubber parts and prevent freezing with no issue. I typically apply the silicone spray to a paper towel and then wipe down the door gaskets, let dry for a short time and wipe off any excess.

Trevor applies the silicone spray directly...

..but I agree with you about the propellants and distillates being a problem. Spraying on a wrag first and then applying seems to be a good compromise.
 
You want to use "food grade" silicon spray so no rubber degradation due to the petroleum.

and... voilà!

Again, thanks for the suggestion. Food grade can be bought for the same amount. No petroleum in the mix. Now, whatever else is in the spray is unknown to me. I returned the two on the left. Now, to wait for a dry, unrainy, unsnowy day to apply it to the seals.
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You can use food grade silicone for automotive use but standard silicone lubricants are just fine too. The primary requirement for food grade silicone is that it be colorless, odorless and tasteless. There are food industry specifications for silicone lubricants, i.e. H1, H2 and H3. Food grade silicone has strict limits on the levels of mineral oil, other petroleum products. Food grade silicone must also not degrade when it comes in contact with food ingredients.

None of this is relevant to lubricating and protecting the hinges, door latches, conventional automotive lock mechanisms; plastic and rubber seals in automobiles. I have been using standard silicone lubricant products on my automobiles for decades. About 10 years ago I became aware of 303 Aerospace products. The 303 products offer superior protection for plastic and rubber parts from the sun, ozone and the environment and was developed for aviation and boating. I still rely on good ol' silicone spray most of the time.
 
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After siliconing the h*ll out of all the seals this last morning, ALL of the windows were stuck in the up position just 8 hours later. No ice storm, no snow, no fog -- just cold 25 degree weather. No visible ice anywhere. Two of the four door handles were frozen shut, and the charge port would not open except for trying it 14 times and hitting it hard several times. To make matters worse, the car and phone no longer talk to each other, so I can't pre-heat or use defrost at will. (yes, BT, cellular, and local network were all on). The car has the premium connectivity. This car has become a nightmare in the Chicago winter. BTW, no garage.

I'm resorting to spraying the caustic HEAT product down all the windows every morning when it is below 35 degrees. This will destroy the window trim and most likely streak the paint on the doors, but it is the only way I can get into or out the car during a winter here. This situation absolutly sucks.
 
After siliconing the h*ll out of all the seals this last morning, ALL of the windows were stuck in the up position just 8 hours later. No ice storm, no snow, no fog -- just cold 25 degree weather. No visible ice anywhere. Two of the four door handles were frozen shut, and the charge port would not open except for trying it 14 times and hitting it hard several times. To make matters worse, the car and phone no longer talk to each other, so I can't pre-heat or use defrost at will. (yes, BT, cellular, and local network were all on). The car has the premium connectivity. This car has become a nightmare in the Chicago winter. BTW, no garage.

I'm resorting to spraying the caustic HEAT product down all the windows every morning when it is below 35 degrees. This will destroy the window trim and most likely streak the paint on the doors, but it is the only way I can get into or out the car during a winter here. This situation absolutly sucks.
man, what the hell, lol
what product did you use?
this is highly abnormal
 
I just started using wd40 silicone, anyone see issues with this?


WD-40 Specialist silicone spray lubricant is safe to use on rubber and plastic. (standard WD-40 can, over time, damage rubber.
 
After siliconing the h*ll out of all the seals this last morning, ALL of the windows were stuck in the up position just 8 hours later. No ice storm, no snow, no fog -- just cold 25 degree weather. No visible ice anywhere. Two of the four door handles were frozen shut, and the charge port would not open except for trying it 14 times and hitting it hard several times. To make matters worse, the car and phone no longer talk to each other, so I can't pre-heat or use defrost at will. (yes, BT, cellular, and local network were all on). The car has the premium connectivity. This car has become a nightmare in the Chicago winter. BTW, no garage.

I'm resorting to spraying the caustic HEAT product down all the windows every morning when it is below 35 degrees. This will destroy the window trim and most likely streak the paint on the doors, but it is the only way I can get into or out the car during a winter here. This situation absolutly sucks.
Until you can get the connectivity issue(s) sorted out you can set Scheduled Departure to precondition the Tesla Model Y for your normal A.M. departure time. Scheduled Departure can be set for every day or Monday through Friday. The Tesla Model Y does not have to be plugged in to use Scheduled Departure preconditioning as long as the battery state of charge is above 20%. Set the Climate Control to Auto, ~71F, Fan Speed on Hi (this functions as a fan speed limiter, sets the maximum fan speed when the Climate Control is set to Auto.) This should solve your frozen window and door handle issues.
 
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I've thought about the scheduled conditioning, but I work strange and inconsistant hours and days. I'd need to ammend the schedule every other day, which makes it easier to just hit the "ON" button on the app 10 minutres prior to departure. If it is 35º or more, I won't precondition at all, and I'll still have full regen, despite what the manual says that I won't.

The communication issues persist at work, mostly because it is located in a cell-phone near-dead zone. If I'm inside the building, the conditioning fails, every time. I have to be walking towards my car for it to reliably stay on. The issues at home were discovered to be a mix of wonky internet and similarly wonky cell up-times. That persisted for a couple days, right at the same time I was at the 30-day point of re-subscribing to the connectivity package with Tesla (which continued seamlessly, btw) -- but I thought that maybe the connectivity went AWOL for a day or so. Some have reported on these forums that theirs was missing even a week beyond when they paid for the yearly fee. But thankfully, that wasn't an issue here.

The windows are not sticking at the top at the seal near the roof. They never were. And not to discredit the siliconing of the seals, which should be done every once in a while. The problems are at the top of the doors and inside the doors, where there is a fibrous seal that sucks in the melting snow and rainwater, which then freezes the windows in place. HEAT can help, but without disassembling the doors, I have no idea how deep the freeze goes in there. Could be several inches, and if so, spraying with heat, or using isopropyl won't be an immediate answer.

Thankfully, most of our winter here thus far has been not as bad as usual. But I will be using the other car, which has no such frozen issues as the Tesla does, in the sub-32º F. days ahead. There will be plenty of those with two more months of winter.