Anyone bought the track package for a daily driver?

[MrKool]

I see the price for the track package is 20k now with breaks and wheels which is huge but if I had bought the car for 90k I would have spent the 20k I guess but I paid 150k for mine so not sure if I want to spend another 20k I don’t track but might go to drag strip once a year. Most of the time the car just commuter With “accidental” pedal slips

 

[Mordin]

I just got mine and thought about it but won't get it until I decide to track it.

If you go to drag strip, probably get it.

I don't think I'd ever use it for commuting. Even now the times that I max the pedal, I have given myself enough space to regen brake back to cruising speed or very light brake.

If you are more aggressive than I am and brake hard after flying, maybe it's a good insurance policy hehe.

 

[aerodyne]

I just got mine and thought about it but won't get it until I decide to track it.

If you go to drag strip, probably get it.

I don't think I'd ever use it for commuting. Even now the times that I max the pedal, I have given myself enough space to regen brake back to cruising speed or very light brake.

If you are more aggressive than I am and brake hard after flying, maybe it's a good insurance policy hehe.

I wonder if the track package mod will retain the tire wear issues and infamous vibration at 38-42 or over 80?

Hoping someone can find out, I would, but the depreciation after the latest price cuts has dampened my enthusiasm for giving more money to Tesla.

 

[NeuroRad]

I wonder if the track package mod will retain the tire wear issues and infamous vibration at 38-42 or over 80?

Hoping someone can find out, I would, but the depreciation after the latest price cuts has dampened my enthusiasm for giving more money to Tesla.

I won’t be surprised in the least if they drop the price on the track pack. Fool me once…

 

[Silver0116]

I won’t be surprised in the least if they drop the price on the track pack. Fool me once…

Probably no price drop.

Retail price for carbon ceramic brakes (Porsche, etc) is usually around USD $15K to $20K. Tesla doing it for $15K including installation is already cheap.

Not to mention the track package was meant to quell complaints about "the plaid has sh*tty breaks". Even if only 5 customers ever purchase the track pack, Elon can say "Tesla offers excellent OEM brakes for the plaid". Whether someone with a 401k can afford it or not is a separate question.

 

[NeuroRad]

Probably no price drop.

Retail price for carbon ceramic brakes (Porsche, etc) is usually around USD $15K to $20K. Tesla doing it for $15K including installation is already cheap.

Not to mention the track package was meant to quell complaints about "the plaid has sh*tty breaks". Even if only 5 customers ever purchase the track pack, Elon can say "Tesla offers excellent OEM brakes for the plaid". Whether someone with a 401k can afford it or not is a separate question.

You may be correct, however given Tesla’s history with pricing it’s worthwhile to wait. Anyways, I find the stock steel brake’s adequate for street driving.

 

[WiLz]

I wonder if the track package mod will retain the tire wear issues and infamous vibration at 38-42 or over 80?

Hoping someone can find out, I would, but the depreciation after the latest price cuts has dampened my enthusiasm for giving more money to Tesla.

Several owners in the Track Pack Waiting Room thread seem to feel the vibration is gone after track package install.

Here’s an update to my initial saga. I was one of the ones (maybe only one) that SC would not install brakes because I have MPP rear camber arms. They said get them installed elsewhere and we are willing to finish config after it’s installed to reflect you have track package brakes installed.

I did get them installed by the same shop that did my MPP rear camber arms. Didn’t have any issues with installation and they also aligned the car. They told me after installing, the pedal felt a little soft but they bled them a couple of times and everything seemed fine after bleeding. I wasn’t too worried over that initially since I know some here mentioned that initial longer pedal travel. I drove it home from the shop but did not use the brakes because I wanted to bed them per ST website procedure that someone was helpful enough to post here.

The next day I put the car in track mode, turned down the regen as much as possible, drove the car out of city limits, and let her rip. I went through all the stops as outlined in the ST procedure. The 75 MPH medium stops got me in the red brake temperature zone along with corresponding warnings on the dash. I wasn’t too worried since the car did not know at that moment I had the CCBs and I’m sure was basing the warning on the much lower temperature limits for the stock brakes. I continued until completing the bedding procedure and then drove around to cool down the brakes below 100 C per the procedure.

All felt fine other than the softer than stock pedal but regardless, the car was really biting at full brake power. I made the SC appointment and they took the car in, gave me a loaner, updated the config and now the car shows it has CCBs and the app shows correct red brakes. After picking it up and after config change I noticed the pedal feel changed back to a lot firmer and immediate and for some reason the steering wheel feel changed a little bit.

So far I’m happy with the brakes and am happy with the SC being reasonable when it came to the aftermarket parts and at least giving me an option. As a bonus my cold start vibration that I’ve had since new, between 37-42 MPH during the first drive after sitting for a couple of hours, mysteriously went away with the brake install so the car is vibration-free now (miracles do happen!).

A few days before I took my Plaid for this SC config change appointment, my M3P was making that old school bus braking noise mostly when cold. A mobile tech came to see it and told me when they build up dust, especially on the cars with Brembos or bigger brakes, they make that noise. He looked at them on my driveway and burnished them and the noise did go away on my M3P.

Similarly, before the SC Plaid appointment, I noticed about a week after I bedded the CCBs it started making this same noise as my M3P, the loud braking noise which supposedly is dust according to the mobile tech’s explanation. I didn’t really want to tell SC when I took in the Plaid since they probably would wash their hands of it since they didn’t install them. Is anyone else running into this issue? I’m new to CCBs but is noise a thing with these?

I posted the same thing about the ~ 40 mph vibration after my CCB install. I am glad I am not the only one experiencing the positive change.

 

[DayTrippin]

I've been 100% vibration free since my track pack installation. I have put on a few thousand miles since then. The car is absolutely awesome. Smooth all the way up from 0 mph to VMAX.

 

[aerodyne]

I've been 100% vibration free since my track pack installation. I have put on a few thousand miles since then. The car is absolutely awesome. Smooth all the way up from 0 mph to VMAX.

Ok....I'm gonna get out of chill mode and drive 100% insane mode until I get the vibes,which will be good, as I will tell wifey the track package is the only cure...

 

[n2mb_racing]

I've been wondering the same thing. Order the car with 19s to save $4500 and get the track package for the 20" wheels and tires, plus brakes. The only thing holding me back is that it seeems like you can get tires with acoustic foam in the 20" size.

 

[DayTrippin]

I've been wondering the same thing. Order the car with 19s to save $4500 and get the track package for the 20" wheels and tires, plus brakes. The only thing holding me back is that it seeems like you can get tires with acoustic foam in the 20" size.

You can get 20's with acoustic foam depending on the size. I got them for my square setup in 20's.

Just go with the 19's and buy a nice set of 20's. Put the 4500 toward everything.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Do you have enough grip with a square setup? The 21s are 295 wide, the 20s are 305 wide in the rear!

 

[DayTrippin]

Stock Tires

• Standard Front: 265/35/R21, Rear: 295/30/R21
• Standard Front: 255/45/R19, Rear: 285/40/R19

Track Pack Tires

• Standard Front: 285/35/R20 Rear: 305/30R20

I am running 295/35/R20 all around. You can make your own judgment regarding enough tire or not. I will say the extra tire up front reduces the car pushing in turns when in track mode.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Stock Tires

• Standard Front: 265/35/R21, Rear: 295/30/R21
• Standard Front: 255/45/R19, Rear: 285/40/R19

Track Pack Tires

• Standard Front: 285/35/R20 Rear: 305/30R20

I am running 295/35/R20 all around. You can make your own judgment regarding enough tire or not. I will say the extra tire up front reduces the car pushing in turns when in track mode.

Very cool. Did you get the track pack without the wheels? And how wide are your 20s, if not the track pack wheels

 

[DayTrippin]

Very cool. Did you get the track pack without the wheels? And how wide are your 20s, if not the track pack wheels

I did just the track pack CCB brakes. I went with 10" wheels. You could run 10.5" for sure all around. I went with 10's as it gives me a bit more sidewall buffer and the wheel isn't stretched so much across the rim.

 

[Rupe]

Unless you plan to run on a road course, save your money. I had no trouble stopping from 150mph on quarter mile tracks using the stock brakes. Since I run at race speeds on road courses, the track package was a must for me. The repeated application of brakes in many turns would max out stock brakes fairly quickly. I keep the original rims/tires on until I prep for the track when I replace them with ones that came with the track package. Another consideration is the track cost: $600-700 for 2 days of track time + hotel + a set of tires (not every time typically, depending on how aggressive you are.) Most track sponsors require an instructor ride-along ($100/weekend) for 4-6 weekends of race speeds before you are allowed to go solo. Not only do instructors hammer home track safety and etiquette, such as how to yield right of way to faster cars on straight-aways & corners, how & where to pass, but also where to slow down, where to apex for each corner, and when to apply power & how much. I wanted to do this since I was a kid racing slot cars Indoors.

 

[n2mb_racing]

I wonder if the 20" wheels are a good option for the street. Seems like exactly the right size. The 21s are too big and heavy, 19s have too much sidewall ....

 

[terranx]

I’m thinking about it, but doesn’t seem to be clear if they fit the wheels I bought for my car. Wish I had a good way of checking

 

[Rupe]

I wonder if the 20" wheels are a good option for the street. Seems like exactly the right size. The 21s are too big and heavy, 19s have too much sidewall ....

Aafter driving for 2 years on.19” rims, I put 20” rims on my P85D. The 21s wear out too fast and are more susceptable to road damage, and the 19s get the best milage. The 20s turned out to be a great option.

 

[Rupe]

I’m thinking about it, but doesn’t seem to be clear if they fit the wheels I bought for my car. Wish I had a good way of checking

The 21” Arachnid are interchangeable with the 20” Zero G track wheels—not sure the 19s are.