There are a lot of variables when thinking of solar.
DO NOT focus on the panel size (350W or 370W) but rather on the inverter size.
if you get 350W panels but the micro inverter can only output 280W per panel, that means your system will not produce 350*20 = 7kWh but rather 5.6 kWh. They will sell you a 7 kWh system but the actual max power you are producing will be 5.6 kWh.
Now you also have to know whether you are in a net metering area or not. I used to have a 1:1 net metering but they changed that last year. Now, I buy a kWh from the grid at $X and my solar system puts a kWh onto the grid for $Y. and yes, $X > $Y.
As others have posted, there are also additional charges just to be connected to the grid. That should be specified on your bill today.
How big of a system do you need? Go out and read the meter every day at the roughly the same time, let's say 7AM. Write down the usage and record it. It also changes through the year, so really you should have been doing this for the last year. Now also figure out how much additional energy will you need. The Y has a 75kWh battery. Assuming you drive it each day (using 20%) and you need to charge it every 3rd day (as you are now down to 20%), that means you will be using an additional 45 kWh or roughly 90 kWh each week or roughly 360 extra kWh each month.
For me, here in the northeast, I use about 20 kWh during the winter (heating), 3 kWh during spring and fall, and 20 kWh on hot days in the summer for the A/C. Winter is fairly constant, since it gets cold and stays around for months. Summer is variable as most days are nice (i.e. no A/C) but some days are HOT (> 90F). Plus the trend is for more warmer days in the summer now. Our average of days > 90, is 13. We are at 24 so far this year. Last year we had only 16 hot days.
Now, determine your latitude and figure out how much sun you will get. The sun's angle changes and with that your panel's efficiency changes. Not a lot maybe 1-3%. Also temperature matters. The hotter it is the efficiency goes down a bit, maybe another 1-3%. How many clear sunny days will you have? Partly cloudy and cloudy days affect the overall production quite a bit. The panels still produce some, just not as much. For me, at 42 degrees north, I get about 3.6X of the advertised system (let's say 7 Kwh, so over the year, i average about 25.2 kWh per day). I get 4.3X of the smaller inverter sized system. Same 25.2 kWh just how you want to look at it.
You can have good days that produce a lot of power
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or a cloudy day that producing some power
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or a bad solar day (Dark rain clouds ALL DAY), that produces almost no power.
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Then figure out length of day, and the tilt angle of the panels and the sun, factor all that in and you'll come to a conclusion that you have no idea whether it's a good deal or not. Plus do panels add to the re-sale value of your house? How long are the panels warrantied for? What does the warranty mean. For me, the panels are expected to produce 80% of their rated output after 25 years. Which means you won't get as much energy after 5, 10, 15, 20 or 25 years. Add that into your calculations.
Some utilities fight you if you try to add too much. Like systems above 10 kWh require more paperwork and take more time to come on line. Then you also have the question of whether you want any battery systems to handle things when the grid goes down. Yes, the grid will go down occasionally, usually on clear sunny days (if you don't have a battery system)!
After all that, I still love my solar system (no battery, just simple grid tied) and I now charge my Y during the sunny days since it is cheaper than buying it from the grid.