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Battery Degradation Scientifically Explained

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Hey could you give any advice for owners who can only charge at SC (I live in a condo with no access to charging) - I charge every 5 days or so to 90% (so far in not very hot weather in PA) and it goes down to 10-15% but only for the last leg of the drive to the SC (it's generally around 20% sitting the last night before the SC drive) - I'm gonna aim to charge more in the 15-25% range and only to 80% as it gets hotter, which will mean I need to charge more often, probably every 3-4 days...Any thoughts/advice on this routine?

I used to live in a condo while driving the 2013 Leaf (84 mi range), that only had no L3 port. I left my car at the local Nissan dealership every night. BMW is also an option; maybe Jaguar & Audi now that eTron is out. Also check out EVmatch app.

With a Tesla, you might be able to go all week and then charge overnight by leaving it at a shopping center etc. You could also look into if your condo can install chargers. If you have assigned parking spaces directly in front of your unit, it would be easy to run an extension cord. If it's in a garage, there may be outlets you can use.

If you don't mind me asking, why'd you spring for the Tesla while still living in a condo vs. a house? That was why we got the Leaf instead of a Model S, to save to get a house first.
 
@EV-Tech Exp : What is better for longevity over 5 years of use--(A) charging from 70% to 80% daily or (B) charing from 30% to 80% once a week?

Or is it negligible? And, is this true of iPhones too? is it better to let them charge in the range of 30-80% vs. up to 100%?

@jdw gives great advice on this below.

Many shallow charge cycles are better for lithium batteries than fewer deep ones and less time spent at 100% is better, especially in high heat environments. Apple's phoneOS 13 will reportedly stop at 80% overnight and top off to 100% in the morning.

Agreed.

In a car with battery thermal management, how can battery temperature realistically affect longevity? The car prevents the batteries from getting too hot, thus avoiding damage, even by frequent use of DC fast charging. This is fairly well proven by the fact that Tesloop cars, which are only and always supercharged, don't suffer excessive battery degradation.

Once again, @jdw gives great advice on this below.

1-Charge to 100% and park in the sun on hot asphalt in Texas for a week.
2-Drive at 80MPH for a few hours on a hot day, punching it every now and then and roll into a SuperCharger with a low state of charge and charge to 100%

The battery cooler comes on when the battery is at 40C and the car is on. 40C is also the temp at which battery damage from high SOC and high charge rates begins.

Degradation is not a binary event, but cumulative damage over time. You can't avoid every event that is not good for a battery, but it makes good sense to avoid the ones you can.

The Tesloop car is also on its third battery ....

Agreed!

I believe he was talking about lithium batteries in general. Some cars like the LEAF do not have liquid cooling and they did have issues in hot climates.

Yes, also we're about to see a whole host of additional EV's come onto the market, many of which will do things in very different ways. We will see more low cost vehicles with air cooling in future....

Hey could you give any advice for owners who can only charge at SC (I live in a condo with no access to charging) - I charge every 5 days or so to 90% (so far in not very hot weather in PA) and it goes down to 10-15% but only for the last leg of the drive to the SC (it's generally around 20% sitting the last night before the SC drive) - I'm gonna aim to charge more in the 15-25% range and only to 80% as it gets hotter, which will mean I need to charge more often, probably every 3-4 days...Any thoughts/advice on this routine?

I agree with the comments of @Zoomit below. One thing which is possible to reduce degradation, though I accept completely impractical (and thus do not recommend), is to unplug the charger 3/4 times during the charge for 10-15 minutes for the system to relax prior to further fast charging.

Not sure how this would impact Tesla's limitations on the number of full speed SC's your battery can do (if indeed that limit remains on the M3 s it does on the MS and MX).

Thanks for the great educational video!

Got a couple of questions for you -
  1. What rate is considered "Fast charge"? I don't have a Tesla yet, but can't stop consuming as much information as I can get my hands on. :) A friend of mine who just got an M3 ran a cable from his stove and is getting 52Km/hour as his charge rate - this would be from a Nema 14-50 plug (see attached screen shot)
  2. How long does it take typically to pre-condition a battery (and what ambient temperature would that be)?

Again, @Zoomit has you covered!
 
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little to no increased degradation for cells cycled upto a maximum SoC of between ~60 - ~90. Below 60% max SoC, degradation was reduced, and ~60% soC corresponds to the approximate SoC at which the cathode structural phase change occurs for an NMC or NCA cathode.

Thus, the conclusion was that if max SoC is taken below unstable levels (~90% SoC in the study), the difference that reducing max SoC further makes is negligible in comparison to the additional structural degradation induced by the regular phase changes of the cathode.

So if I understand this correctly, there is the increasing stress phenomenon for increasing SoC, and there is a”phase change” which occurs at around 60% SoC which is also bad (but is perhaps less significant)?

And if I am reading above correctly, the lowest degradation was observed for batteries charged to below 60%, and then cycled down from there (presumably not so low as to hit the low SoC stress point). So always below 60% SoC.

So with respect to daily charging limit then, if you could consistently get away with it without low SoC, wouldn’t 60% be ideal? In that case the “storage curves” from @Zoomit provide the correct guidance.

But let’s say you wanted to have more reserve “just in case” (many people I would think):
For someone with a short commute, would it arguably be better to charge to 80% rather than 70% on a daily basis, IF it meant that you did not discharge below ~60%, thus avoiding the phase change? Would the improvement due to lack of phase change offset the slight increase in storage stress?

Understood that the exact % levels might differ from one battery technology to the next.

The warmer curves roughly depict a doubling of "stress" between 80 and 90% and doubling again between 90 and 100% absolute SoC.

Based on above questions, while these curves look qualitatively to be correct from a storage standpoint, it sounds like you’re saying the phase transition means you might want to take that into account (if you have predictable driving patterns)...so we can only look at these curves specifically for STORAGE, but not necessarily as exact guidance for what your daily charge level should be set to for optimal longevity? Is that accurate? For users with long commutes perhaps the curves are pretty good guidance since the phase transition is unavoidable, but for those with shorter commutes, slightly higher SoC might be better?

Any idea what %SoC the phase transition occurs with Model 3 battery chemistry?

These are questions, not statements...just wondering mostly how significant this phase transition is...and whether I am interpreting the qualitative behavior correctly.
 
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@EV-Tech Exp

I live in the North where it gets really cold during the winter. Like highs not getting above -20F and lows below -30F. I park in a garage so the car will be somewhat warmer than that when parked/charging. But still the car will not see anything above freezing for several months each winter.

Do you think it is worth installing a space heater in the garage to give the car a slight break from the extreme cold at night?
 
Hey could you give any advice for owners who can only charge at SC (I live in a condo with no access to charging) - I charge every 5 days or so to 90% (so far in not very hot weather in PA) and it goes down to 10-15% but only for the last leg of the drive to the SC (it's generally around 20% sitting the last night before the SC drive) - I'm gonna aim to charge more in the 15-25% range and only to 80% as it gets hotter, which will mean I need to charge more often, probably every 3-4 days...Any thoughts/advice on this routine?

Do you have any way to access a normal L1 outlet? Or L2 charge station while you shop or grab a coffee?

Any way to increase your charge frequency would be beneficial for battery health.
 
@EV-Tech Exp

I live in the North where it gets really cold during the winter. Like highs not getting above -20F and lows below -30F. I park in a garage so the car will be somewhat warmer than that when parked/charging. But still the car will not see anything above freezing for several months each winter.

Do you think it is worth installing a space heater in the garage to give the car a slight break from the extreme cold at night?
I’ll take a stab at this but would like to hear other perspectives.

A space heater would be a very inefficient way to heat the battery. I recommend:
  • Plug in all the time. The car may automatically warm the battery under extreme cold temps but likely only when plugged in.
  • Charge before you drive to help the battery warm up before being used. This will give you more regen.
  • Pre-heat the cabin before driving as well.
  • Use a 48A EVSE to give you as much power flexibility as possible to both heat and charge.
 
I’ll take a stab at this but would like to hear other perspectives.

A space heater would be a very inefficient way to heat the battery. I recommend:
  • Plug in all the time. The car may automatically warm the battery under extreme cold temps but likely only when plugged in.
  • Charge before you drive to help the battery warm up before being used. This will give you more regen.
  • Pre-heat the cabin before driving as well.
  • Use a 48A EVSE to give you as much power flexibility as possible to both heat and charge.
I think them Model s and Model X have battery heaters but I'm pretty sure the model 3 does not have a battery heater.
 
I think them Model s and Model X have battery heaters but I'm pretty sure the model 3 does not have a battery heater.
You are correct, however the Model 3 can still heat the battery. When parked, it runs power through the motor(s) in a fashion that just creates waste heat. It routes that heat to the battery with the coolant. It can also do this while driving and is noticeable by a slight whine from the front motor in an AWD. I understand that this process can use an extra 7kW parked and 4kW while driving in addition to normal heat generation from motive force losses. This amount of heat is very similar to the resistive battery heaters in the S/X and other EVs.
 
Thankfully, Tesla has included software and hardware that pretty much protects you from the all the badness that affects the batteries (the things he talked about in the video), so you don't have to worry too much. I would still recommend charging to 90% or less, and not going to zero miles of range if at all possible, and not Supercharging unless you have to.
 
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I charge to 90% daily, but time the charge so that it completes just before my morning commute. Then the car sits for 8 hours at 80-85%, bofore driving home, where the car sits for 12 hours at 75-80%. Charging to 90% keeps the BMS more accurate, but not leaving the car sit at 90% keeps the battery a little happier. If you plug in and charge immediately after arriving home, the battery may still be a little warmer than ideal, plus why leave it sit all night at a higher state of charge if you don't need to.

I don't think any of this is necessary, but it is easy to do and likely better for the battery.

If I had to park outside in the winter, I would likely charge when I arrived home or work as charging a frozen battery is probably worse than leaving it sitting at 90%, plus I would definitely pre-condition the car in the morning and/or at work for both my comfort and the battery life.
 
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I’ll take a stab at this but would like to hear other perspectives.

A space heater would be a very inefficient way to heat the battery. I recommend:
  • Plug in all the time. The car may automatically warm the battery under extreme cold temps but likely only when plugged in.
  • Charge before you drive to help the battery warm up before being used. This will give you more regen.
  • Pre-heat the cabin before driving as well.
  • Use a 48A EVSE to give you as much power flexibility as possible to both heat and charge.

Good advice - the only addition I'd make is that if we're specifically trying to reduce battery degradation, I'd start charging soon after you park the vehicle following a drive, so that your charge event does not begin after the battery has cooled down to ambient temperature. This is to minimize the potential for lithium plating within the cell during charge.
 
I'd start charging soon after you park the vehicle following a drive, so that your charge event does not begin after the battery has cooled down to ambient temperature. This is to minimize the potential for lithium plating within the cell during charge.
How would you balance that effect with storing the battery at a high state of charge? Under these very cold conditions, is the lithium plating a more significant factor?
 
How would you balance that effect with storing the battery at a high state of charge? Under these very cold conditions, is the lithium plating a more significant factor?

For the original question asker @cypho, maybe start the charge overnight to 80% as soon as returning home from driving and then set slider to 90% in the morning before leaving, giving car 30-60 minutes in the morning to charge and pre-heat cabin a bit before leaving as well to warm battery and have some regen available instead of having a “snowflake” icon battery?

@EV-Tech Exp would you say charging a 2nd time pre-drive is bad? I think the Tesla won’t actually take a charge until the battery has been pre-heated sufficiently.

Maybe a good idea is to dial down the amps in the car so that your charge takes all night without stopping?
 
When cold, the impact of a higher SoC is reduced as electrolyte decomposition and the rate of parasitic side reactions is strongly temperature dependent, and your larger issue becomes lithium plating at high SoC, so I'd suggest simply charging to 90% immediately if that is your desired setpoint, and do a cabin-pre-heat in the morning to help things get up to temperature before driving.
 
How would you balance that effect with storing the battery at a high state of charge? Under these very cold conditions, is the lithium plating a more significant factor?

Completely correct that lithium plating would have more of an impact - at these very low temperatures, storage at 90% SoC will have minimal negative impact in terms of electrolyte decomposition and undesired parasitic side reactions, however invoking additional lithium plating could have a significant impact.
 
......I'm not sure what Tesla does on this, however I would expect them to circulate coolant when the battery is becoming excessively hot, i.e. >50°C. They do however need to balance this with the customer expectation that the vehicle does not consume excessive power when sat unused. A fine balance needs to be struck. Maybe those who live in hotter climates can help us understand what their vehicle does?
I’m not sure about when parked in the heat unplugged (no commute and I’m either driving or charging on the road), the AC definitely runs on my 2015 S70D while in the garage above 90F, plugged in and NOT charging. It’s been a couple of weeks since it’s been out for a drive. I’ve heard the AC a couple of times, but really haven’t paid attention to the exact temperatures. Also, I leave the battery between 50-70% SOC until the day before my next trip.
 
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If you take two identical long range Model 3 traction batteries and performed the following test what effect would it have on longevity? I am going to assume the battery on the shelf will fair better but by how much???

Both batteries would be in a temperature environment that did not vary below 60F or above 80F.

One battery would be charged to 50% and stored on a shelf for a year or have the 12V battery removed from the car (very close approximation to the same thing). Actually Tesla recommends disconnecting the 12V for long term storage if AC charging power is not available. Quote for a Tesla Service document - "Storing the vehicle for three weeks or more (unless it is plugged in)"

The other battery would be in a plugged in Model 3 not driven for a year but the charge level would be set and maintained to 50% by the battery management system. A plugged in Tesla is a happy Tesla but maybe not for these two scenarios?

At the end of the year approximately how much life span would be lost in both scenarios given the following assumptions for the plugged in car?

Phantom drain is supposed to be around 1% per day or about 3+ miles; however, over the ownership of the car I have seen up to 20 miles of drain in a given day.

I will use 4 miles average for the following observations:
4 miles X 365 days = 1460 miles of Phantom drain in a year
It is my understanding the charger will charge the battery back to 50% when it has lost about 10 miles/3% of the 310 mile range.
1460 miles / 10 miles is approx 146 3% charge cycles on the traction battery (and an equal number to the 12V battery) in a year.

I know hardly anyone would ever not drive their car for a full year (maybe it would apply to someone serving in the military) but I am still curious what the difference would be to the traction battery longevity.
 
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Screenshot 2019-07-21 at 13.15.08.png
If you take two identical long range Model 3 traction batteries and performed the following test what effect would it have on longevity? I am going to assume the battery on the shelf will fair better but by how much???

Both batteries would be in a temperature environment that did not vary below 60F or above 80F.

One battery would be charged to 50% and stored on a shelf for a year or have the 12V battery removed from the car (very close approximation to the same thing). Actually Tesla recommends disconnecting the 12V for long term storage if AC charging power is not available. Quote for a Tesla Service document - "Storing the vehicle for three weeks or more (unless it is plugged in)"

The other battery would be in a plugged in Model 3 not driven for a year but the charge level would be set and maintained to 50% by the battery management system. A plugged in Tesla is a happy Tesla but maybe not for these two scenarios?

At the end of the year approximately how much life span would be lost in both scenarios given the following assumptions for the plugged in car?

Phantom drain is supposed to be around 1% per day or about 3+ miles; however, over the ownership of the car I have seen up to 20 miles of drain in a given day.

I will use 4 miles average for the following observations:
4 miles X 365 days = 1460 miles of Phantom drain in a year
It is my understanding the charger will charge the battery back to 50% when it has lost about 10 miles/3% of the 310 mile range.
1460 miles / 10 miles is approx 146 3% charge cycles on the traction battery (and an equal number to the 12V battery) in a year.

I know hardly anyone would ever not drive their car for a full year (maybe it would apply to someone serving in the military) but I am still curious what the difference would be to the traction battery longevity.

Great question, which has a short answer and a long answer. The short answer is that the vehicle with the 12V disconnected would degrade less, assuming the SoC does not drop to approximately <1% SoC, and that temperature is broadly the same and not >> 25 deg C.

The reason for this is that energy throughput is reduced (both input and output), as is the average SoC (given that self-discharge will result in a gradual SoC drop for the disconnected battery).

The attached figure shows the effect of calendar ageing for a typical Li-Ion cell due to SoC and temperature, (source: Calendar Aging of Lithium-Ion Batteries).
Screenshot 2019-07-21 at 13.15.08.png
 
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