Battery runs like 60kw instead of 75kw

[diamond.g]

You guys need this (I plan on ordering one myself, just to have). EVTV Motor Verks Store: Tesla Model 3 CAN Monitor, OEM Electric Vehicle Items, TeslaModel3CANKit
Basically Jack R says that the car lies to you and that if you really want to know the capacity you have to ask the BMS.

Ordered the CAN Monitor, excited to get more info from car.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

@Ninetenjack

Over the weekend I did a run which used 195 rated miles (260rmi => 65rmi - about 85% to 21%) and consumed 45.2kWh according to the meter. (Actual trip length was 176.4 mi, using 256Wh/mi in a P3D+ - probably the best efficiency I've ever got, but average speed wasn't very fast (about 50mph).)

This extrapolates to 71.9kWh for a 310rmi to 0rmi discharge.

However, there was definitely an additional ~1 mile (250Wh) of vampire during that period (due to about 4-5 hours of car sitting unused), and there was some modest brief use of A/C while in park, since this trip was broken into 6 segments. So I would estimate that the "full" capacity from 310 to 0 exceeds 73kWh (which is about what I've seen before).

There may be a lot of error at the ends of the range, of course, and the extrapolation could be further off than the number above. Never have explored a full discharge.

 

[Ninetenjack]

Again, hard to say, but breaks down as:

• Driving use (may be inaccurately metered by a few %)
• Use while in Park, or just with car door open and not in car, or preheating (not counted on the meter) -> Preheating can easily use ~1kWh in 10 minutes
• Vampire drain - will be 750Wh to 1kWh per day

So you can do a trial experiment IMMEDIATELY after a charge and do a reasonable length drive (say 40 miles or more), and do:

(Starting rated mi - Ending rated mi ) * 242Wh/mi (if you have RWD with latest firmware you may want to use a smaller number like 230Wh/mi - I am not sure what the situation is there though!)

• Starting rated mi -> recorded immediately after putting car in drive
• Ending rated mi -> recorded immediately before putting the car in park at destination.

And then compare this result to the trip meter Wh/mi * miles, for the same trip, recorded immediately after putting car in park.

Be sure not to spend any time in park during the journey.

Then see how far off that is. I'd expect within 5% (which would be 3.5kWh error for a full discharge).

Thanks, this post was helpful this weekend I did a lot of driving in about a day and half got above 45kWh for 70% which is about 3kWh more than I normally get. It was milder than usual with temps around 8C and I did fewer stops, so its seems to be the heating of the car that's possibly using up the extra charge. I was always going to wait until it warmed up to see if I got more, and so far it seems to be that way.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Thanks, this post was helpful this weekend I did a lot of driving in about a day and half got above 45kWh for 70% which is about 3kWh more than I normally get. It was milder than usual with temps around 8C and I did fewer stops, so its seems to be the heating of the car that's possibly using up the extra charge. I was always going to wait until it warmed up to see if I got more, and so far it seems to be that way.

Still seems pretty poor IF you're not using any significant energy in park (a big IF).

I would recommend switching to miles (because it gives you a direct measurement of the actual energy content the car think it has (though still subject to error), temporarily. It's easier to do the calculations then. (I would assume 242Wh/mi for the purposes of this experiment, though it may not be a correct number depending on your vehicle type.) You can't see battery degradation (in any obvious way) when you use the %.

Not saying you have battery degradation; I think it's quite likely that you're simply use a lot of standby power (due to preheating, using the heat while parked, etc.).

If you do any preheating or use any heat while parked, I would guess you have no problem. That energy could be enormous, and is not counted.

 

[AlexFNS]

I have exactly the same issue, but only 150km range at highway speed of 130km/h.

After I test a model y this weekend and the usage is not so much less - it’s less, but not so much, I make a can diagnostic with scan my Tesla and I see my pack is a 65kwh with 4 buffer, so it’s a 60kwh pack and not the 75 that was selled. So Tesla brother me with a smaller battery and less cells. 83 and not 92 like the 75 from a friend.

Now it’s only the question what’s the best way to get some money back for the wrong delivered car or from the lease company, because that’s a decently bad situation. There was a lot of lost time in the last 5 years … here my battery data from my x75D

 

[ucmndd]

Now it’s only the question what’s the best way to get some money back for the wrong delivered car or from the lease company, because that’s a decently bad situation.

You were not delivered the wrong car.

The “75” battery was never 75kwh. It was about 72kwh when brand new. The buffer is included in that total capacity… it was never extra, so your actual useable capacity was always well below 75kwh even when brand new. 65kwh seems perfectly normal 5+ years after delivery - about 10% degradation, which is very common for that vintage S/X 75kwh pack.

There is no “best way” to pursue the claim you are implying. You have no recourse.

 

[AlexFNS]

You were not delivered the wrong car.

The “75” battery was never 75kwh. It was about 72kwh when brand new. The buffer is included in that total capacity… it was never extra, so your actual useable capacity was always well below 75kwh even when brand new. 65kwh seems perfectly normal 5+ years after delivery - about 10% degradation, which is very common for that vintage S/X 75kwh pack.

There is no “best way” to pursue the claim you are implying. You have no recourse.

Why my pack has less cell groups than another older S 75D?

 

[ucmndd]

Why my pack has less cell groups than another older S 75D?

What leads you to believe that?

 

[jjrandorin]

I have exactly the same issue, but only 150km range at highway speed of 130km/h.

After I test a model y this weekend and the usage is not so much less - it’s less, but not so much, I make a can diagnostic with scan my Tesla and I see my pack is a 65kwh with 4 buffer, so it’s a 60kwh pack and not the 75 that was selled. So Tesla brother me with a smaller battery and less cells. 83 and not 92 like the 75 from a friend.

Now it’s only the question what’s the best way to get some money back for the wrong delivered car or from the lease company, because that’s a decently bad situation. There was a lot of lost time in the last 5 years … here my battery data from my x75D View attachment 990272

View attachment 990273

This is the model 3 subforum, and the thread is discussing a model 3. It appears you are talking about a model X 75D. That discussion should likely be in the model X subforum, here:

Model X: Battery & Charging

range, battery & charger options, charge time, HPWC

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