Long range AWD with the Aero wheels. Standard wheels I believe 18"? I want the smoothest ride possible.
While variables as mentioned are an issue, in the summer 2.5 cents/mile is a reasonable rule of thumb for 10c/kWh pricing. Winter the variables get a lot wider, it'd depend a LOT on when you drive and how much you use HVAC (vs seat heaters to start, and then fresh air on the windshield only). CO can certainly get cool but normally is also quite dry. Others here living in CO have suggest maybe 20% efficiency loss is "normal" but it could be more if you do a lot of short runs, only a handful of miles at a time, and don't have the vehicle in a garage.
Funny, that’s how I first read the post also...If she doesn't agree, then you can just change the statement "I'm in the process of selling my spouse on a M3" to "I'm in the process of selling my spouse FOR an M3"
My ICE costs including premium fuel for my Audi A4 quattro, assuming no major breakdowns (I am not assuming since I have had a couple already) is $11,262 over 3 years.
Yeah, 10-12 cents/mile is quite reasonable ballpark for a ICE car. A decent rule of thumb is saving 6c/mile on fuel with the Model 3, so that's about right here if maybe a bit conservative. So about $1200/year (20,000 x $0.06), AKA $100/month, for you.
Smoothest ride, 41 or 42 psi in tires. Best mileage, 45 psi. It definitely makes a difference. I happen to like the feel at 45 psi. I think the handling feels crisper. IT's probably just the steering that improves. The site Tesla Range Table - Teslike.com is great for range tradeoffs and indirectly watt hours per mile. More than on an ICE, weather affects range. Rain definitely hurts. It's like flying a plane. I once lost over 20 knots of airspeed due to rain.
I got quotes from the dealer for all scheduled services for the next 60,000 miles. That and fuel came to $11,262 over 3 years. That's assuming no breakdowns which I have already had a couple. Leaking tranny pan, drive shaft bearing, computer issue. All covered under CPO warranty but I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
There isn't really any discernible turn-in lag at 40 PSI, but if you ever get to the edge of lateral friction you're going to get there a good deal faster the more you go above about 38 PSI. If you drive very hard, like "not on public roads" hard you'll quickly find they feel "greasy" as you go over 38PSI. 45PSI is right out for that. How often that comes up when you are driving on public roads is highly dependent on what you're choosing to do.
You may be right. I haven't pushed either car near its limits. The RWD feels a little better in the steering but that is probably me being used to RWD cars.There isn't really any discernible turn-in lag at 40 PSI, but if you ever get to the edge of lateral friction you're going to get there a good deal faster the more you go above about 38 PSI. If you drive very hard, like "not on public roads" hard you'll quickly find they feel "greasy" as you go over 38PSI. 45PSI is right out for that. How often that comes up when you are driving on public roads is highly dependent on what you're choosing to do.
More likely it is road feel, the extra few pounds brings out a lot more of the little ledges, bumps, and unevenness that pretty much all roads have. It does feel pretty "exciting" but it isn't really performance enhancing in a material way.
Ah, I haven't driven the RWD much but it could be that the higher pressure is allowing rear wheels to slip and give a bit of oversteer bias? If you're ok with that feel then sure it could be helping in that way.
