BMS_F107 Fault

[Jesters Deadd]

I just recently bought a 2019 Tesla MS performance 60k miles after driving it fault free for a couple months, a BMS_F107 fault came up and the car will not drive or charge now. The weather was very cold and rainy and I had charged the car to 100% for the first time the day before the fault. I have read many of your posts on here, and really appreciate the information. After having the car towed home, I replaced the 12V battery and tried to the reset the car. The fault would not reset and car would not drive. I decided to drop the battery because all information on this fault suggested moisture ingress and corrosion in the battery.

I removed the battery from my car and took the lid off. The pack is very clean and dry with no damage visible to the bricks, wiring, boards or case. I made a jumper harness to plug the HV battery into the car while the battery is on the ground so I can see the cell voltages using ScanMyTesla(SMT).

I tried swapping the bmb data plugs to better understand the which brick corresponded to which cells. I realized this was no help since the BMBs are all CAN. After inspecting every pack and plug visually I also checked the BMS boards and connectors. I replaced the short BMS harness. I could find no issues or anomalies and all voltages reported fine on SMT. Still the F107 fault would not clear.

I finally broke down and got a month long subscription to Toolbox3 last night and connected to the car. There is an action in there to reset that fault. Well I'ld like to report that it work or seemed to. After resetting the fault it has not come back this morning.

I still have the battery on the ground. I also made a charging extension cord to charge the battery on the ground. Ill charge the battery and see if it still checks good. Ill will report back.

Is there another way to reset the F107 fault besides Toolbox3? Also I damaged one of the aluminum spacer bolts on top of the battery does anyone have a spare?

 

[gaswalla]

it's a salvage?
there is key information missing

 

[brainhouston]

Also I damaged one of the aluminum spacer bolts on top of the battery does anyone have a spare?

Tesla will actually sell u those

it's a salvage?
there is key information missing

What makes u think that?

OP if everything checks out then most likely BMB issue
Did u check bottom side of each module?
Sense wires are on both sides and if one is loose that will trigger the code.
I haven't heard of any other way to reset F107...

 

[ucmndd]

What makes u think that?

Only reason I can think of that someone would tear apart the battery themselves on a 2019 Model S vs. taking it in for warranty service.

 

[brainhouston]

Only reason I can think of that someone would tear apart the battery themselves on a 2019 Model S vs. taking it in for warranty service.

ahh duhhh...
clearly warranty never comes to my mind..

i guess its also possible to be in a country with no Service centers (probably not the case here)

 

[BIZTEam]

I just recently bought a 2019 Tesla MS performance 60k miles after driving it fault free for a couple months, a BMS_F107 fault came up and the car will not drive or charge now. The weather was very cold and rainy and I had charged the car to 100% for the first time the day before the fault. I have read many of your posts on here, and really appreciate the information. After having the car towed home, I replaced the 12V battery and tried to the reset the car. The fault would not reset and car would not drive. I decided to drop the battery because all information on this fault suggested moisture ingress and corrosion in the battery.

I removed the battery from my car and took the lid off. The pack is very clean and dry with no damage visible to the bricks, wiring, boards or case. I made a jumper harness to plug the HV battery into the car while the battery is on the ground so I can see the cell voltages using ScanMyTesla(SMT).

I tried swapping the bmb data plugs to better understand the which brick corresponded to which cells. I realized this was no help since the BMBs are all CAN. After inspecting every pack and plug visually I also checked the BMS boards and connectors. I replaced the short BMS harness. I could find no issues or anomalies and all voltages reported fine on SMT. Still the F107 fault would not clear.

I finally broke down and got a month long subscription to Toolbox3 last night and connected to the car. There is an action in there to reset that fault. Well I'ld like to report that it work or seemed to. After resetting the fault it has not come back this morning.

I still have the battery on the ground. I also made a charging extension cord to charge the battery on the ground. Ill charge the battery and see if it still checks good. Ill will report back.

Is there another way to reset the F107 fault besides Toolbox3? Also I damaged one of the aluminum spacer bolts on top of the battery does anyone have a spare?

Hi

It is possible to reset it directly in BMS memory.

https://evclinic.eu/evc-knowhow-academy/tesla/hv-battery/ms-mx-battery-bms-reset-operation-manual-bms_u029-bms_u025-bms_f107-bms_f123-20236118107/

 

[Jesters Deadd]

it's a salvage?
there is key information missing

Yes, but damage was not to the battery. Damaged was only to front bumper. That was all repaired with oem parts.

 

[Jesters Deadd]

Tesla will actually sell u those

View attachment 1015040
View attachment 1015041

What makes u think that?

OP if everything checks out then most likely BMB issue
Did u check bottom side of each module?
Sense wires are on both sides and if one is loose that will trigger the code.
I haven't heard of any other way to reset F107...

Great! I should have went to the manual first. thanks.
Well fault is back. I have a used BMS board and tried to replace mine. same PN. I am getting a
"Failed
Failed to restore BMS ECU data as the current BMS HV battery HWID (79) does not match the BMS HV battery HWID contained in the backup (89). See Article 6988500 for more information."
Are used bms boards not reflashable?

 

[Jesters Deadd]

Is there a way to read the signal alert log signals? That would tell me the brick I need to inspect.

 

[brainhouston]

Great! I should have went to the manual first. thanks.
Well fault is back. I have a used BMS board and tried to replace mine. same PN. I am getting a
"Failed
Failed to restore BMS ECU data as the current BMS HV battery HWID (79) does not match the BMS HV battery HWID contained in the backup (89). See Article 6988500 for more information."
Are used bms boards not reflashable?

sounds like maybe bms board came for diff capacity pack?...
it should be flashable but maybe only with toolbox.. not an expert on this matter but would love to learn as well

 

[Jesters Deadd]

sounds like maybe bms board came for diff capacity pack?...
it should be flashable but maybe only with toolbox.. not an expert on this matter but would love to learn as well

I tried multiple ways. Doesn't seem to be. If I'm wrong I would love for someone to correct me.

 

[Jesters Deadd]

Is there a way to read the signal alert log signals? That would tell me the brick I need to inspect.View attachment 1015369

Found them. The alert log signals are in the CAN Periscope section, click on the subject alert and the info will be visible in the graph.

 

[brainhouston]

I tried multiple ways. Doesn't seem to be. If I'm wrong I would love for someone to correct me.

with Toolbox 3?
i know @Recell converts 16-14 module packs n that def requires reflashing bms, pretty sure they said they only use Toolbox3
any insights recell?

 

[Recell]

the BMS restore functions in Toolbox require like board for like board. it appears the donor board is a 79 and the backup is an 89? if so, the donor board needs to be an 89 board to write the 89 backup to it - the best way to achieve this is probably to match part numbers and revisions, since even same part numbers can sometime run different hardware IDs (that's not ironclad, but general guidance)

 

[Jesters Deadd]

the BMS restore functions in Toolbox require like board for like board. it appears the donor board is a 79 and the backup is an 89? if so, the donor board needs to be an 89 board to write the 89 backup to it - the best way to achieve this is probably to match part numbers and revisions, since even same part numbers can sometime run different hardware IDs (that's not ironclad, but general guidance)

I have the same part number and rev board. Is there a place to see the ID number on it?