Air Bubbles in Instrument Cluster

[Black_P85]

Good Afternoon All,

I just found some air bubbles in my 2013 Model S P85 Instrument Cluster. As I am out of warranty I am wondering if these bubbles are something that can damage the car eventually or will fry the screen? I ask because I am about 6 months from purchasing a new car so wondering if these could cause harm or just don’t look so great but will be ok to drive with for a bit?

Thanks for you assistance!

 

[patrick40363]

You should be good to drive a bit. The bubbles will expand over time. I had the cluster in my 2015 85D replaced after 7 1/2 years. I knew I was going to sell and wanted it fixed for the next owner.

 

[Black_P85]

You should be good to drive a bit. The bubbles will expand over time. I had the cluster in my 2015 85D replaced after 7 1/2 years. I knew I was going to sell and wanted it fixed for the next owner.

Thanks for the info. So even if I try to keep the car for a year and don’t fix it will this cause measurable damage to car or just a cosmetic issue? Any idea? Thanks again!

 

[IslandHydro]

I've heard that there is a thick liquid that can leak out and make a mess below the screen that can be difficult to clean up. Perhaps someone who has had it happen can chime in. I had my screens updated, cost 1800, very worth it because not only are the screens nicer, the computers are better too. You end up with functional web browser, better voice recognition, snappier mapping (zoom / pan / calc route)

 

[Black_P85]

I've heard that there is a thick liquid that can leak out and make a mess below the screen that can be difficult to clean up. Perhaps someone who has had it happen can chime in. I had my screens updated, cost 1800, very worth it because not only are the screens nicer, the computers are better too. You end up with functional web browser, better voice recognition, snappier mapping (zoom / pan / calc route)

Thanks. Are you speaking about the touchscreen or the instrument cluster? Just so we are on page the bubbles that have formed are on the smaller non touchscreen in front of steering wheel.

 

[DerbyDave]

Both have liquid that can leak, and it is a mess.

 

[Black_P85]

Both have liquid that can leak, and it is a mess.

And the liquid that leaks comes as a result to bubbles forming?

 

[patrick40363]

Thanks for the info. So even if I try to keep the car for a year and don’t fix it will this cause measurable damage to car or just a cosmetic issue? Any idea? Thanks again!

I didn't fix mine for a long time. Just keep an eye on it.

 

[DerbyDave]

And the liquid that leaks comes as a result to bubbles forming?

There is a bunch of info on this common problem here is an explanation.

Tesla Screen Has Bubbles/Fluid Leaking Out: What Now? - Green Car Future

Something a bit worrying can sometimes affect your Tesla: having fluid (or bubbles) leaking out of your screen. Here's what to do if yours is affected.

www.greencarfuture.com

 

[ChooseFreedom]

And the liquid that leaks comes as a result to bubbles forming?

There is a lamination film/fluid between the screen and the glass. The early MS's (MCU1) had a version that had nothing holding it in, so over time due to heat, that film/fluid melts and with nothing holding it in place, gravity does it's thing and the fluid leaks. Picture a glass microscope tile with a drop of water on it, then another tile put on top, so the water is flattened. Now picture the top tile slowly pulled off. Right at that moment of separation is kind of where your instrument cluster is.
It's a honey-like viscosity, very sticky and a nightmare to clean up. If enough leaks it can start dripping onto the floorboard. Otherwise, it's contained by the lower dash panel below the cluster.

I found a compatible used IC online (~$200) and replaced it myself. There are several YouTube videos on how to.
During that process, I also put gorilla tape along the bottom and side edges of the screen to try and avoid it happening again.
Completely invisible once installed, the outer IC frame hides it.
Now, if the center screen starts to bubble, I'll probably just go ahead and upgrade to MCU2.

The MCU2 upgrade would replace both screens and alleviate this issue as those don't have the design flaw. I haven't done that yet, but everyone says it's worth the $1800.
So I probably will eventually, but my MCU1 hasn't started acting up yet.

 

[Black_P85]

There is a lamination film/fluid between the screen and the glass. The early MS's (MCU1) had a version that had nothing holding it in, so over time due to heat, that film/fluid melts and with nothing holding it in place, gravity does it's thing and the fluid leaks. Picture a glass microscope tile with a drop of water on it, then another tile put on top, so the water is flattened. Now picture the top tile slowly pulled off. Right at that moment of separation is kind of where your instrument cluster is.
It's a honey-like viscosity, very sticky and a nightmare to clean up. If enough leaks it can start dripping onto the floorboard. Otherwise, it's contained by the lower dash panel below the cluster.

I found a compatible used IC online (~$200) and replaced it myself. There are several YouTube videos on how to.
During that process, I also put gorilla tape along the bottom and side edges of the screen to try and avoid it happening again.
Completely invisible once installed, the outer IC frame hides it.
Now, if the center screen starts to bubble, I'll probably just go ahead and upgrade to MCU2.

The MCU2 upgrade would replace both screens and alleviate this issue as those don't have the design flaw. I haven't done that yet, but everyone says it's worth the $1800.
So I probably will eventually, but my MCU1 hasn't started acting up yet.

Thanks for the great detail and advice here. Can’t thank you enough!

 

[Bizarrkley_2]

Same issue here and I got an estimate from the Tesla Service Center. $1443 just for the Instrument cluster, or $2250 for the MCU2 upgrade.

 

[vcor]

Consider it is likely only a matter of time if one is failing, the other is likely to fail soon after. I'd suggest buying the MCU2 upgrade, as it includes both displays, which are a better design while having better resolution and contrast. Before you ask why didn't they use these new displays from the start, they didn't exist back in 2009 when they were designed for MUC1.

While $2250 is expensive, in the automotive world this is quite a bargain as you get both displays, new electronics, labor, and a 2-year warranty. Contrast that with a Lexis 9" display module that does a fraction of what MCU2 does, and it costs $4100 for the part alone (labor extra). Other manufacturers have similar if not even more expensive costs for the infotainment module.

If you do the ICE replacement yourself, the goo cleans very easily with alcohol. The rubbing alcohol wipes are a great way to clean up any residue.

 

[IslandHydro]

Consider it is likely only a matter of time if one is failing, the other is likely to fail soon after. I'd suggest buying the MCU2 upgrade, as it includes both displays, which are a better design while having better resolution and contrast. Before you ask why didn't they use these new displays from the start, they didn't exist back in 2009 when they were designed for MUC1.

While $2250 is expensive, in the automotive world this is quite a bargain as you get both displays, new electronics, labor, and a 2-year warranty. Contrast that with a Lexis 9" display module that does a fraction of what MCU2 does, and it costs $4100 for the part alone (labor extra). Other manufacturers have similar if not even more expensive costs for the infotainment module.

If you do the ICE replacement yourself, the goo cleans very easily with alcohol. The rubbing alcohol wipes are a great way to clean up any residue.

Not only do you get new displays, but the computers behind the displays are also upgraded leading to much better responsiveness!

 

[eschummer]

Well I tried to replace mine today and it didn’t go well. Got everything out and new Reeldeal screen on but when I plugged it all in had the split screen ghost display below. Since it is superficially functional I suspect one (or both) of the ribbon connectors isn’t making proper contact. Agree?