Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Can I return my Model Y Performance

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I still have to be a bit intentional when lifting off the Tesla accelerator with other people in the car to avoid being a little jerky. I "drive the gears" in automatic ICE cars by small changes in the accelerator. In Tesla I still subconsciously feel for the downshift when lifting off the tesla pedal.

I'm sure some one pedal drivers are less smooth than they were with ICE without realizing i
Have you tried chill mode? It is less jerky.
 
  • Like
Reactions: linux-works
This thread reminds me of years ago when going through my undergrad school, I was selling cars to cover my tution. This lady bought a fuel efficient car and then came back complaining of the poor fuel economy she was getting. The car was rated for like 35 mpg but most people I sold one to were getting closer to 40 mpg. She was getting about 25 mpg and was very unhappy.

I had her bring her car in and had her take me for a ride. It didn't take long for me to understand the issue. The throttle was treated in a binary way; either totally on or totally off. Thankfully it didn't accelerate really quick otherwise you would have wanted to puke. She would literally stab the accelerator to the floor and then totally let off. Cycling so her speed was about the speed limit within a +/- 5 mph speed range. It was an automatic car and at about 45 mph the car was constantly upshifting and downshifting.

Her driver education was clearly an issue. I tried to dance around the issue tactfully but wasn't getting anywhere with her. I asked her about her commute and it was usually about 20 miles each way on the highway. I suggested she use the cruise control on the highway and try it for a tank of fuel and come back and tell me how it was. She showed up about 2 weeks later and happy as could be. She was getting 40 mpg now and loved her car now. She said she would have to try the cruise control trick in the city too. It was one of the crazier customer issues I dealt with but she sent me 5 referrals so it was worth it in the end.

As for the one-pedal driving, I found a way to do it on another car we have that wasn't set up for it. She hated it and would never do as I suggested it. Definitely helped with the range. Another plus for one pedal driving is as soon as you let up the car slows considerably. With my wife, this would reduce the chance of rear ending someone by quite a bit. She grew up in a big city and never drove until she was probably in her late 20's.

The damndest thing though is with our MY, she is fine with one-pedal driving now. It only took her a few days to get used to it. Still don't do it on the other car. I'll take the win anyway as on the MY it matters more.
 
I have (almost exclusively) driven manual transmission cars or EV's... very few traditional automatic transmission ICE cars... what is pulsing the accelerator and why would anyone do it?

Keith
I would agree with jjrandorin that regen has a lot of characteristics like a manual transmission, at least based on the 4-5 I've owned. It's not even downshifting a manual, if you even just let off the accelerator/gas pedal still in 2nd or 3rd gear, the car already starts decelerating quickly, and even in high gear on a lighter car. Most likely if you've driven a stick all your life, you learned early on how to feather the pedals to provide a smoother ride, and carry that into the EV's as oppposed to the "pulsing" jjrandorin described (which I never thought of it that way before). And I'm sure you used both deceleration and coasting (by engaging the clutch) as different tools in your driving arsenal, with both left and right foot learning how to use the modes between full on and full off.

I understand the Bolt EV you already have has adjustable settings on regen and one-pedal driving, I'd be curious which setting you chose, and whether it more resembles manual or automatic transmission feeling...
 
  • Like
Reactions: PatrickTM
I would agree with jjrandorin that regen has a lot of characteristics like a manual transmission, at least based on the 4-5 I've owned. It's not even downshifting a manual, if you even just let off the accelerator/gas pedal still in 2nd or 3rd gear, the car already starts decelerating quickly, and even in high gear on a lighter car. Most likely if you've driven a stick all your life, you learned early on how to feather the pedals to provide a smoother ride, and carry that into the EV's as oppposed to the "pulsing" jjrandorin described (which I never thought of it that way before). And I'm sure you used both deceleration and coasting (by engaging the clutch) as different tools in your driving arsenal, with both left and right foot learning how to use the modes between full on and full off.

I understand the Bolt EV you already have has adjustable settings on regen and one-pedal driving, I'd be curious which setting you chose, and whether it more resembles manual or automatic transmission feeling...

I drive in "L" which is the heavy regen mode, and use the "regen on demand" paddle on the left hand side of the steering wheel to increase regen even more if needed to adjust approach speed to a stop sign or traffic light. It is very similar to driving a manual transmission in regards to "engine braking" feel. From reading what other Bolt owners here have said, the MY feels very similar to the Bolt when the Bolt is driven in L... so I expect to love it :D

Keith
 
  • Like
Reactions: alexcue
I have a related question regarding Regen that can't be turned off anymore. Sorry if this is common knowledge, just preparing for my eventual MY:
If the battery is full up and can't accept Regen charge (I plan to top up around 80%), does the one-pedal driving action change? Or does it still motor-brake to keep the action consistent, but just dump the charge into a load? (This would be power dissipation into heat, like a friction brake does. But maybe it can be used by the heat-pump system to more rapidly warm the battery and cabin in cold weather).
 
I have a related question regarding Regen that can't be turned off anymore. Sorry if this is common knowledge, just preparing for my eventual MY:
If the battery is full up and can't accept Regen charge (I plan to top up around 80%), does the one-pedal driving action change? Or does it still motor-brake to keep the action consistent, but just dump the charge into a load? (This would be power dissipation into heat, like a friction brake does. But maybe it can be used by the heat-pump system to more rapidly warm the battery and cabin in cold weather).

At high SOC (much higher than 80%) your regen is reduced due to lack of capacity in the battery for more charge at a high rate of charge like you get from regen.

Keith
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjrandorin
At high SOC (much higher than 80%) your regen is reduced due to lack of capacity in the battery for more charge at a high rate of charge like you get from regen.

Keith
Right I understood that. But to my question, does that condition translate into a detectable change in the deceleration action (more like the former Coast mode)?

Edit: sorry if I'm not being clear. As I see it there is normal regen-charge mode and an engineering choice if that's not available due to SoC or cold battery. I'm wondering which choice Tesla made for 2021 cars.
  • Normal: Regen braking slows the car and contributes charge to the battery.
  • Choice 1 when batt can't accept charge: Deactivate motor braking, car coasts instead of motor-braking when pedal is released.
  • Choice 2 when batt can't accept charge: Continue to motor-brake as usual, but route the resulting regen-current into a resistive load (basically a heat strip).
    • 2a: Dissipate the heat into the outside airflow via a finned heatsink. Energy is completely lost but driving feel is consistent.
    • 2b: Exchange the heat into the heat-pump liquid flow to assist in battery heating and/or cabin heating for cold conditions. Energy is reclaimed and warms up faster, also driving feel is consistent.
 
Last edited:
Right I understood that. But to my question, does that condition translate into a detectable change in the deceleration action (more like the former Coast mode)?

Edit: sorry if I'm not being clear. As I see it there is normal regen-charge mode and an engineering choice if that's not available due to SoC or cold battery. I'm wondering which choice Tesla made for 2021 cars.
  • Normal: Regen braking slows the car and contributes charge to the battery.
  • Choice 1 when batt can't accept charge: Deactivate motor braking, car coasts instead of motor-braking when pedal is released.
  • Choice 2 when batt can't accept charge: Continue to motor-brake as usual, but route the resulting regen-current into a resistive load (basically a heat strip).
    • 2a: Dissipate the heat into the outside airflow via a finned heatsink. Energy is completely lost but driving feel is consistent.
    • 2b: Exchange the heat into the heat-pump liquid flow to assist in battery heating and/or cabin heating for cold conditions. Energy is reclaimed and warms up faster, also driving feel is consistent.

There is no dumping of load anywhere, there is just no regen (thus no engine braking) when the battery cant accept the load. If you charge your car to 100% there is no regen at all. If the battery is very cold, regardless of charge level there is no regen. There are dots on the power meter that will show when you have reduced regen.
 
There is no dumping of load anywhere, there is just no regen (thus no engine braking) when the battery cant accept the load. If you charge your car to 100% there is no regen at all. If the battery is very cold, regardless of charge level there is no regen. There are dots on the power meter that will show when you have reduced regen.
Thanks.
 
I have a MYP and my vehicle allows me to change the regen breaking. Under driver settings, try changing the brake to either creep or roll and then let us know if this fixes the problem.
That's not regen setting. That's just to change the behavior of car when you let go of brake from stop. Creeps behaves more like an ICE with automatic transmission. Roll is more like an ICE with manual transmission in Neutral or clutch in.

Regen setting is change behavior of car when you let go of accelerator while in motion. Test it for yourself; it doesn't matter of you're in creep, roll or hold, when you let go of the accelerator while in motion, the MY will slow down as if you're braking.
 
Most people only know acceleration and brake. I like many others here learned how to drive a stick and one of the ways I knew how to tell if I was driving well was if a passenger could tell if I shifted or not.

Learn to control your car. Once I get my MYP I suspect I will never use the brakes unless a deer jumps out in front of me at night..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fourdoor
It wasnt even hasty, the sales guy told me it was a setting in the car. I thought the LR one I drove just must've had it set lower
reminds me of a mistake I made when I bought my VW passat (yeah, yeah, ...) almost 20 years ago. the model I drove had fold down rear seats but the '4motion' model I ended up buying was non-folding rear seats. I missed that, entirely! but who would have thought to check something like that?

I tried to 'return' my VW just the next day, after I noticed this. I bet they had a good laugh after they hung up on me.

sometimes lessons are hard-learned. btw, I lived with that car for all this time, until I got my m3, just about 2 yrs ago. hated not having a fully usable hatchback, but I lived with it for all those years.

regen is something you can get used to. give it time and relax.